Ask a Master Gardener

Got a Gardening Question? Just Ask!

The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 2:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin. If you have a Gardening question to be answered, please feel free to text or email the Master Gardeners: Text: 210-544-0756 or email: GCMGTX@gmail.com  

Editor’s Note:  The gardening suggestions found below are generally written for Guadalupe County, Texas (Central Texas).  Per the newly updated Plant Hardiness Zone Maps (PHZM) based on 1991-2020 weather data, we are now in USDA Plant Hardiness Zone 9a (minimum low temperatures of 20 – 25 degrees F), with most soil types of Blackland Prairie, Claypan, and Postoak Savannah.  We have an average annual rainfall of 34 inches and usually hot, dry summer. Gardening results in other areas may vary!  Please note the USDA PHZM should serve as a general guide for growing perennial plants. They are based on the AVERAGE lowest temperatures NOT the lowest ever.

Click this link for the latest USDA PHZM and Chill hours map for Guadalupe and rest of Texas

Ask a Master Gardener Articles 2025 and Older

Clara Mae Marcotte and Ernestine Sykes are Texas Master Gardeners with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.

February 2025 –

Q: When is a good time to put in my spring garden?

A: I think you are really asking when the last freeze will be. Plantmaps.com says the last freeze for Seguin is February 21-29. Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac says around March 16. My plant diary lists last year’s final freeze as February 18. Remember that green beans, peppers, squash and tomatoes are frost sensitive, so it is better to wait before planting. Or, if you have a small area, plant in gallon pots, place in a wagon, and pull them into the garage every night until all danger of frost passes. You can also buy transplants from the nursery rather than planting from seed. Enjoy all those cold tolerant herbs such as chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, and thyme. You can also still plant cool-season vegetables before it gets too late.

Cool season annuals can be planted now. It looks like my snapdragons made it through this last 26 degree night so they should be all right. Other cool season annuals are alyssum, calendulas, dianthus, Johnny-jump-ups, kale, larkspur, pansy, poppy, stock, sweet peas, and violas. You should also soon be able to buy six packs of bluebonnets.

Q: We just bought this house and want to know when to prune the rose bushes.

A: Welsh suggests pruning roses heavily each year two to three weeks before spring growth begins. February 14 is the date he and many others use as an easy date to remember. For hybrid roses prune each bush back to a height of 18 to 24 inches. Leave 4 to 6 main stems facing outward so the bush looks like a vase or inside out umbrella. Then prune to maintain health by removing old blooms, pruning off bad parts, and pulling off damaged leaves. For a complete pruning lesson go to aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/proper-pruning-techniques.

Q: Is it an old-wives’-tale to water your plants before a freeze? Somehow it seems counter-intuitive.

A: It is true. Extension horticulture specialist Lisa Whittlesey says that making sure your plants are well watered can be a great protection from light frost damage. This is particularly important if you are in a drought. She says that drought-stressed plants are more susceptible to cold damage, so watering plants a few days in advance of a cold snap is beneficial. She adds that watering just before the freeze can help by creating warmth; the water loses its heat slowly over the hours into the colder temperatures.

FYI: Continue providing water for our birds, squirrels, and other outdoor animals. Fertilize trees, shrubs, and vines this month. Resist removing the frozen back plant material until at least late February so that birds and wildlife can use it for cover.

January 2025 –

Q: I’ve heard that it is time to plant bare-root roses. What types of roses do best in the area around Seguin?

A: First of all, you must have an area where roses will grow and do well. The site should provide at least six hours of sunlight per day according to Extension Horticulturist Doug Welsh. The best site should face east as the morning sun will dry the foliage. Next, for best results, you should create a raised bed of good soil. This raised bed at least ten inches tall will help keep your plants well-drained.

Then you should research some of the new hybrids and look for an Earth-Kind label. I find that the old-fashioned roses do best for me because I forget to water and provide minimal care. I have a Carefree Beauty (or Katy Road Pink) that I have had for many years. It blooms in spite of me. The other rose that has done well for me is Martha Gonzalez. I have taken cuttings and most all of them root. As I write this in late December, both of these roses are in full bloom.

Prune your bushes to about 18 to 24 inches before spring growth begins. Most of us remember this by pruning on February 14 each year. Leave outward facing canes. Then in the fall (around Labor Day) prune again lightly.

Above, I mentioned looking for an Earth-Kind label.  Earth-Kind landscaping emphasizes water conservation, landscaping for energy conservation, reduction of fertilizer and pesticide uses, and reduction of yard waste entering landfills. Another label to look for when you garden during this new year is the Texas Superstar label. Texas Superstar plants go through extensive field trials where the plants receive minimal soil preparation, minimal water and no pesticides.

Q: What flowering plants can I put in this time of year?

A: There are many available to plant right now, including calendula, cyclamen, dianthus, Johnny-jump-ups, ornamental kale and cabbage, pansies, petunias, snapdragons, stock, sweet alyssum, and violas. If you can find them, bluebonnet transplants can also be planted. Remember to water your plants if the ground is dry and the weatherman predicts a frost or freeze. I have had the tops of snapdragons freeze, and then come back with new growth later.

Q: Are there cold tolerant herbs that I can plant?

A: Chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage and thyme can be planted. In fact, a large pot of some of these herbs would have been a nice Christmas gift for a friend. Other cool season crops could also go in also including Swiss chard, kohlrabi, and collard and turnip greens. Go by your local nursery and see what is available.

Don’t forget to continue providing water for birds and our outside animal wildlife. Birdbaths and water containers need to be refilled daily.

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December 2024 –

Q: I just bought myself a cyclamen for the holidays. How do I care for it?

A: Cyclamen persicum, a member of the primrose family, can be grown outside in our area of Texas. David Rodriguez, County Extension Agent in Horticulture for Bexar County, says that unless the weather gets extremely cold, cyclamen will bloom every day until April. The problem with growing them outside is that they are not inexpensive. Most of us buy just one plant and bring it inside for the holidays.

Doug Welsh, Extension horticulturist, says the plant will do well for a month or so indoors. Water enough to keep the soil moist. Then plant it outside until the temperatures heat up and it stops blooming. He suggests throwing it away after that. Rodriguez, however, suggests you fertilize your indoor cyclamen every four weeks with soluble fertilizer and place it in a window with morning sun. For outside planting, Rodriguez suggests removing the bulb structure from the garden after it has finished blooming in early May and store it in a paper sack inside.

Another outdoor growing suggestion is to sink the plants in their containers into the flowerbed all winter. Then, in the summer either move them under caladiums or other shade plants, or move the pots into a shady corner of the yard and water every two weeks. You can replant in late October or early November.

Q: What can I give as a garden gift to a friend who lives in a home without much yard?

A: If your friend has a small patio, you might fill a good sized pot (depending on the size of the patio) with different greens and herbs. It looks wonderful and can be consumed all year. You might start the pot with a holiday-tree-shaped rosemary plant. I have a pot out front with Swiss chard that I clip and use for salad. Other herbs for your pot include salad burnet, parsley, dill, chives, oregano, lovage, mint, and cilantro. If we get a really cold winter (well below freezing), a cover can be thrown over the pot.

Another garden gift is good for any sized yard: a birdbath. You can choose a functional birdbath, or go all out and find one that qualifies as “garden art.”  This is a gift for the home owner as well as for wildlife. I have had good luck with animals not knocking mine over because I add a low water bucket for the heavier outdoor wildlife; of course, then you have to clean it more frequently because they sometimes climb in.

FYI: Don’t prune freeze damaged stems of perennials. They will provide insulation for the plant during the winter, according to Doug Welsh. Spring flowering bulbs can be planted this month.

November 2024 –

Q: What is the plant with fluffy blooms in front of the library?

A: This lovely plant is one of the celosias. It is considered an annual here since it freezes at 32 degrees. Celosias are members of the amaranth family with about 60 species of annual or perennial celosia. A 2006 Texas A&M newsletter on the Internet contains quite a bit of information about celosia. The three common celosia that we see around here belong to two different species, Celosia argentea (also called Cristata L.) and Celosia spicata. Argentea has two groups: the Plumed celosia which is what the magenta bloomed plant in the planter at the library is, and the Cristata group which has the cockscomb blooms. Celosia spicata is the other species which is also known as wheat celosia because of its flower heads (and I suspect that is what the other celosia in the adjoining flower bed is). According to this aggie-horticulture article, the only problems that affect celosia are mites, leaf spots, and stem rot. Make sure you plant in well-drained soil in a raised bed. Of course we haven’t been worried lately about too much water ruining our plants. All celosias can be used as fresh or dried flowers. One of our local Seguin flower growers uses celosia cuttings in the vases at a local coffee shop. Flowers can be dried by cutting them early in the morning after the dew has dried; then strip the leaves from the stems, wrap a band around 6 to 8, and hang them upside down in a dark, cool, dry, airy space until they are fully dried. They will stay colorful for at least 6 months.

Q: Since AgriLife Extension says September through December is the best time for planting trees, what are some of the things that I need to think about before planting?

A: One of the major things you need to consider is whether the tree you’ve chosen is adapted to this area. One of my neighbors tried to grow a Japanese maple and it only lasted a year in our alkaline soil. Drive around town and look at what grows well. Get a list of trees from your local Master Gardeners, Native Plant Society, or AgriLife. Another thing to consider is whether this tree will be right for the space long term. Quick growth trees usually have short lives. Also, think about whether the tree will be too close to the house when it is grown. You don’t want to have to keep branches off your roof. Consider the location of your water and sewer lines also before planting your tree.

FYI: When you bring your houseplants back into the house after their summer outside, keep your eyes open for insect pests that come inside with the plants.

Q: I bought and planted a couple of fruit trees early this year and they are growing very well. Is there a web site or ? where I can track and log the number of hours that take place this Winter that are < 45 degrees (i.e. “Cold Hours”) in the Seguin area? Thanks.

A: Here are some ways to find chill hours by zip code: Texas A&M AgriLife Extension: Use the Chill Hour map for Texas to find the chill hours for your location. You can also use the TexasET Network page to find the chill hours for weather stations near you. Our zone 9B, has from 100 to 500 chill hours per year. So not a lot of hrs to count on! Every winter is different. Good luck with your trees!

October 2024 –

Q: It is definitely fall because I see goldenrod and frostweed blooming. Both are absolutely covered with butterflies. When do I plant other perennials that attract butterflies?

A: Now is the prime time to plant perennials such as butterfly weed, lantana, purple coneflower, verbena, and salvias according Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist.

Lantana is a nice perennial to have because of its free-flowering habit. Greg Grant and Jerry Parsons wrote a great article in 1989 (re-quoted in an aggie-horticulture article) about lantana and suggested that it was best used as a warm season annual that should be replanted each spring. With our weather getting warmer, we probably will not need to replant. The plant is drought tolerant, and attracts birds and butterflies. It has high deer resistance which, as you know, just means that if nothing else is available, they will eat the plant.

The blue-black fruit clusters are poisonous according to Wildflower.org. Grant and Parsons add that the plants are poisonous to cattle and sheep, although early colonists used the fruit to make infusions to be taken as medicine and as a remedy for snake bites. Newer varieties of lantana are sterile so that they have no fruit, and will bloom continuously.

There are many fall blooming plants in our area including little bluestem, chrysanthemums, firespike, Mexican mint marigold, and gulf muhly. I am really looking forward to the lovely pink display on my gulf muhly when it is backlit by the sun.

Q: What shrubs provide berries in the fall and winter?

A: At my house I have American beautyberry, possumhaw, and yaupon. Now is a good time to go to the local nursery and pick out your plant while it has berries and you can see what you are getting. My yaupon has multiple trunks and never causes me a bit of grief (although it does need to be kept trimmed and away from my roof once in a while).

American beautyberry is also lovely to grow. Some years back non-native beautyberries were planted in a local park. They did not do as well as our native ones. American beautyberry is larger, more upright, and is slightly taller than wide according to the Piedmont Master Gardeners. Huntsville Botanical Gardens adds another difference: the non-native beautyberry has purple berries but they don’t wrap fully around the stem, and the fruit is further from the stem. There is a lovely American beautyberry at our Seguin public library on the south side of the front door.

Q: Is it time to fertilize my lawn?

A: Welsh reminds us to not apply fall fertilizer until warm-season lawns have stopped growing and that is usually when you have not had to mow for two weeks.

September 2024 –

Q: I’ve heard that fall is the time to plant trees and shrubs. Is that true, and why?

A: It is true because during fall the roots of plants that are fall-planted can take hold and become well-established. The tree or shrub is then better able to support and take advantage of spring growth. This is particularly true for container-grown trees and shrubs. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac reminds us that this does not include bare-root plants including roses, pecans, and fruit trees. These should be planted in the winter months when they are completely dormant. This is probably January to March here. When you see the bare-root plants in your local nursery, then that is your hint that it is time to plant. Remember that bare-root plants have a reduced root system and need that dormant spell so that growth occurs only in the roots. You don’t want shoots and leaves yet. As a reminder, my first freeze last year was December 11. (And then, in January, I had two days with lows of 20, and one day with a low of 16. My last freeze was February 18.)

Q: Which trees are recommended for our area?

A: CPSEnergy.com has some neat charts hidden on its site in the Green Shade Tree Rebate area. One chart lists recommended trees for the San Antonio region ranging from Understory trees up to the Canopy trees. Their actual application lists what they consider their Qualifying trees divided into Large and Medium/Small. I am not sure that I would actually plant some of these near my house (or that I would consider some of these as “shade” trees). However, there are enough in the list that would be suitable. These include Cedar Elm, Lacey Oak, Live Oak, Mexican Sycamore, Mexican White Oak (Monterrey Oak), Pecan, Texas Red Oak, and Texas Walnut. They also list Bur Oak (just remember how large the acorns are!) and Mesquite (thorns and pods).

The Medium/Small tree list includes Anacacho Orchid, Carolina Cherry-laurel (check out those around the Seguin library), Citrus, Evergreen Sumac, Flame Sumac, Mexican Plum (mine is gorgeous this year), Retama, Texas Mountain-laurel, Texas Persimmon, and Yaupon Holly. The site also includes tree planting instructions if you wish to make a print copy for your files.

Q: When do I plant wildflower seeds?

A: Late August and September are the best times to plant seed according to Doug Welsh. However, wildflower.org just says “in the fall” while reminding us that bluebonnets should be planted no later than mid-November. My bluebonnets which self-seeded from this past spring are already sprouting. Remember to water your seeds well when they are sown, and then keep the soil surface from completely drying out for the first several weeks. After that, water every five to seven days. Wildflower.org says that as the temperature gets cooler, you can go longer between waterings.

FYI: Please remember our bird and animal friends and keep your birdbaths filled daily.

August 2024 –

Q: I have had a lot of tree trimming people coming by my house, and I’m receiving trimming notices on my door. I’ve heard we have Oak Wilt around here. What should these trimmers be aware of?

A: Oak trees that are susceptible to Oak Wilt are live oaks and the red oaks. Red oaks include blackjack, pin, Shumard, Spanish, and Texas. If you are trimming or cutting on any of these trees, spray the cut with paint. Usually the hottest or the coldest times of the year are the safest times to trim oaks, but I would still spray. If you need to plant trees, try to plant a mixed landscape with trees that are not susceptible to the disease. In the oak family, white oaks are the least susceptible and include bur, chinquapin, Monterrey and post oaks. I love my Monterrey oaks—they are large and beautiful. Other trees resistant to Oak Wilt include the cedar elm, pecan, redbud, Texas walnut, mesquite, Montezuma cypress, sycamore, Texas mountain laurel and desert willow.

Q: Should I be doing something to prepare my roses for fall bloom?

A: Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac suggests you should start to prepare your rose bushes in mid-August by pruning them back about 25 percent. Remove the old blooms and diseased rose leaves and clean up the dead debris beneath the plant. Pruning generates new growth and, of course, more blooms. Fertilize with nitrogen. This can be one-fourth cup of urea per plant, or one-half cup of ammonium sulfate, or one cup of blood meal. Water thoroughly and mulch.

Q: I have a Warren pear tree that is covered in fruit right now. It also has a number of dying branches with blackened leaves and fruit. What is happening?

A: Fire blight is a pear disease that can cause severe damage and that can sometimes kill the tree. Warren pears are supposedly highly resistant to fire blight according to aggie-horticulture in their Home Fruit Production article on pears. The description of the disease says it appears in the spring, but this is late July. Prevention is spraying with streptomycin at first bloom, then at 5 day intervals. Once the disease is found, prune out the fire blight-damaged tissue by making cuts at least six inches below the diseased tissue. Sterilize your shears in a 10 percent solution chlorine bleach after you make each cut. One source says to prune during the dormant season, since pruning while the tree is actively growing may spread the disease.

FYI: Continue filling your birdbaths and water barrels for the wildlife around your house. To control mosquitoes, change the water frequently or use bacillus thuringiensis doughnuts to float on the water.

July 2024 –

Q: Every time I walk along Nolte St. to the bookstore in Seguin, I see a lovely plant with large three lobed leaves and scarlet flowers. It seems to freeze in the winter but always comes back. Tell me about it.

A: You are looking at Jatropha integerrima, also called Spicy Jatropha, Chaya, Firecracker Jatropha, or Peregrine. In our area it does freeze but comes back. Further south it grows to a shrub or small tree. The compact version reaches three to five feet. Texas A&M lists this plant as a Texas Superstar since it withstands heat, is able to withstand a wide range of soil pH in well-drained soil, and has few insects or diseases. In addition to all that, Jatropha is a really good looking plant. Its flowers attract hummingbirds and butterflies, including monarchs, swallowtails and zebra heliconia. However, as with many of our Texas plants, you should not eat any of its parts.

Q: I love the look of tropical plants, but I hate the fact that they can freeze. What are some of the plants that can be grown around here and how can I keep from losing them in the winter?

A: First of all, remember that we can treat the tropical plants as annuals the same way we grow snapdragons in the fall and early spring, and we grow vinca and zinnias in the late spring and summer. Our local nurseries are already helping by putting bougainvillea and Mandevilla in hanging baskets as well as hibiscus in large pots. And then, of course, many of the tropical plants will come back after a freeze such as lantana, verbena, Esperanza, thryallis, oleander, hamelia, and Mexican bird of paradise. Personally, I find it a relief to have some plants freeze back otherwise I would constantly be trying to keep them off my roof. I cut back frozen Esperanza and hamelia every spring.

You might try container gardening in the summer. One of my neighbors plants hibiscus every spring in the planters alongside his mailbox. My son has a large blooming acanthus mollis in a pot on his patio. I have two plumaria in pots that I have babied for years. You just need to remember to water, and to take them in before a freeze (or be prepared to treat them as annuals and replant each year).

The secret to getting the best results from container gardening is to use good potting soil (and, of course, to water). I change the soil in the large planters at the library when I plant the spring plants, and again when I plant the winter plants. And, I use the best potting soil that I can find at our local nursery. There is no sense putting work, time, and money into something and then using poor materials.

FYI: Remember that the magic word for July is “Water” and not just for plants. Keep your small ponds and birdbaths filled for the birds, squirrels, and other wild animals around your house.

Jatropha ^^^

June 2024 –

Q: With temperatures already sky high, what types of plants can stand the heat?

A: The plants I noticed blooming around Memorial Day weekend that looked good in Seguin (if you’ve been keeping them watered) were vinca, coleus, lantana, and salvias. Other plants included Gregg’s Blue Mist, Texas Superstar roses, petunias, zinnias, Esperanza, and Firebush. You might be interested in checking the Internet under texassuperstar.com. It is a great site and seems to have been developed by partners Texas A&M AgriLife, Texas Department of Agriculture, and Texas Nursery and Landscape Association. You will receive plenty of information on tough Texas plants from legitimate information sources.

Q: The heat is bringing a lot of critters to my yard. My water containers empty fast, and the small pears on my Warren are being eaten by squirrels. What can I do?

A: Fill your birdbaths and other containers frequently. I notice my water lily containers are losing a lot of water to evaporation (and probably raccoons).  The pear situation is a problem. The Internet suggests netting and for a 25 foot high tree that is not practical. Another suggestion is coyote urine around the trunk. Since squirrels can climb into the tree from neighboring trees or off of nearby buildings, I don’t think that urine on the trunk will do much good. We will just hope that these are friendly squirrels who are willing to share with you. An old time gardener once said that when you plant, plant one for you and one for the animals.

If your tomatoes are being pecked, you can pick them early as soon as the bottom or blossom end of the tomato turns from green to white with a touch of red according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. I bring mine in the house the minute they start to turn.

Q: My irrigation system is not working at the moment and I am worried about my trees. How is one supposed to water a tree?

A: Welsh reminds us that the feeding root system of a tree is at the drip line which is the area directly below the outermost reaches of the tree branches. So when you water, move a slow running hose on the ground around the drip line until each area is wet to a depth of about 10 inches. I have actually used buckets with ¼ inch holes punched around the bottom which I filled with water and placed along the drip line of the tree. And when your irrigation system gets fixed, be sure that the sprinkler heads are not wetting your driveway or sidewalk.

Remember that you should have raised the mowing height of your lawn mower for the summer. Another helpful hint for the hot summer is to remove weeds from your lawn and beds because they compete for the water. And, of course, water your lawn and garden between sundown and sunrise. The wind is lower and the temperature is lower.

May 2024 –

Q: When the weather gets warmer, you change out the plants in front of the library. You have snapdragon and pansies in there now. What warm season plant will you put in?

A: I am a lazy gardener. I will plant the tried and true periwinkle since it has done so well for me in the past. However, I could plant several other warm season annuals such as coleus, marigold, portulaca, purslane, scaevola, or zinnias. Recently I added a celosia to one of the library planters. Years ago, when Jack Linden took care of the planters, he planted celosias. They reseeded themselves, and one even ended up in an adjacent flower bed.

Aggie-hort.tamu.edu has an article on celosias citing them as one of the most eye-catching annuals to grow in the garden. There are three types: plumes, crests or spikes. And all have vivid colors, including red, yellow, cream, orange, rose, deep magenta and pink. Sizes range from four to six inches high up to over three feet. I am hoping the one I put in the planter is dwarf. Aggie-hort speculates that the plant originated in Africa and India, and possibly in dry stony regions of North and South America. They have been grown in North America since the eighteenth century. The flowers are beautiful in flower arrangements.

Q: My passion flower vine doesn’t look good. What could be wrong?

A: If the damage isn’t caused by Gulf Fritillary larvae, there could be a number of things wrong. Wildflower.org suggests too much water, too little water, sucking insects (aphids or scale), thrips or mites, or fungal disease, or larger insects like grasshoppers, snails or slugs. If you have checked the plant for each of these, and still need a better diagnosis, take a leaf or two to your County Extension Agent.

One of the old-time gardeners (Malcolm Beck?) said that the best way to control insects in the garden was with your shadow. In other words, every morning you should check current conditions and look for problems. This way you can solve the problem before it gets too far along.

Q: Should I be killing the ladybugs I see in my garden? They don’t look quite like the ladybugs I am used to.

A: The ladybeetle is basically a good predator that feeds on aphids and soft-bodied insects that could cause plant damage. However, when the multicolored Asian beetles come in the house, they can become a nuisance. This is because some of them can bite hard enough to break the skin. Also, they can secrete a strong-smelling yellowish liquid from the joints of their legs according to extension.umn.edu.

FYI: Don’t forget to keep your bird baths full and be sure to plant some butterfly attracting plants such as butterfly weed, lantana, penta, salvia, and verbena.

April 2024 –

Q:  Is there any way to get rid of weeds in my landscape?

A: Mowing regularly helps control weeds if only because it keeps the seed heads cut off. Keeping your lawn healthy helps because an actively growing dense lawn helps ward off weeds. Extension horticulturist Doug Welsh says that it is critical to prevent weeds from being brought into your landscape through trucked in, contaminated topsoil or poor-quality turf grass sod. A friend of mine a few years back had a load of topsoil delivered that was full of nutgrass. Also, when I first moved into my house, the previous owner had brought in old sod from the high school when they replaced the sod on the football field. For ten years my husband and I dug grassburs! When you buy topsoil inspect it carefully, and be sure to check any sod for weeds before you buy.

If you have weeds anyway, Welsh suggests that hand-pulling weeds together is a sure way to provide quality time with your spouse. (And, he adds, it can be a character building experience for your children in immediate and delayed gratification.)

Personally, the only weed I try to keep out of my yard is grassburs. Sometimes, especially in the springtime, I have a pleasant surprise. There, out in the open, is a bluebonnet, or a buttercup, or a salvia. And if I am lucky, I might find a Zizote milkweed (Asclepias oenotheroides). My yardman, who is also a Master Gardener, just drives the mower around them.

Q: You tell us every year that weed and feed products are not recommended by extension agents and educators. Why not? It certainly cuts down on our work.

A: In the spring, the timing is off for applying fertilizers. Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in late winter (January or February). Fertilizing should be done after the second spring lawn mowing when the lawn is actively growing.

Q: Last year the weight of the fruit broke branches on one of my pear trees. How should I have avoided that?

A: Aggie-Hort.tamu.edu says to thin fruit early by hand starting from the end of a branch by leaving one pear per cluster. Space the clusters every six inches. The article suggests holding the stem between thumb and forefinger and pushing the fruit from the stem with the other fingers. This method does not damage other pears on the spur because it removes pears but leaves the stem attached to the spur. Evidently if you do not thin your fruit, you will not have as many flower buds the following year. This is why so many of us only have a good crop every other year.

FYI: Don’t forget our birds and wildlife. Keep those birdbaths cleaned and filled.

March 2024 –

Q: I see that you trimmed the plants in front of the Seguin Art League. Is it time to cut back our frozen plants? I know that you usually tell us to not cut them back because it provides cover for the birds and other wildlife as well as protects the plant from more freezes.

A: Well, I guess I’m optimistic and really don’t think we’ll be getting any more hard freezes. Roses and other root hardy plants can be pruned now. My bluebonnets are blooming and the Mexican Plums at the library have blooms (as does mine). My neighbor’s Mountain Laurel has started to bloom and is covered in insects. Other early bloomers according to Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, are pyracantha, spirea, calleryana pear, Eastern redbud, Texas redbud, and Mexican redbud, and Mexican buckeye. It must be Spring, although my redbuds and buckeye aren’t blooming yet.

Q: Do I prune my citrus now also? How do I know whether my citrus has been injured by our freezes?

A: Aggie-Horticulture, in a section on citrus freeze injury and care, suggests that you wait for spring growth before pruning, and the article also suggests waiting until the fruit has set in May. Then you can prune the dead limbs and twigs back to live tissue. The article mentions that your plant might still grow normally and flower for several weeks. Then, when the high summer temperatures hit, it could show stress or die.

Q: When do I fertilize my lawn? My neighbor is out there today fertilizing.

A: As I mention every year, apply lawn fertilizer after you have mowed the lawn grass twice. (Lawn grass being defined as your St. Augustine, Bermuda, or Zoysia, not that winter grass.) Welsh says that waiting confirms that the lawn grass is actively growing and is ready to use the fertilizer applied. He also suggests applying one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.

Q: I wish I had a garden but I live in an apartment (or have a tiny yard). What can I do?

A: You can garden in pots (or window boxes, or on the patio). One of my friends has an upstairs apartment. Her pots are on the landing, and when there is a freeze, she brings them inside. Another friend living in a garden home has several large pots on her patio. One pot has a lemon tree and another pot has a tomato plant. This winter my pots held kale plants, so I had fresh kale salad all winter. For the last two months, I have had fresh cherry tomatoes every day from a potted Siam tomato that I moved in and out of the house when we went below 40. The main thing you need when growing in pots is good well-drained soil, full sun at least 6 hours a day, and water. I check every day to make sure the soil is moist.

February 2024 –

Q: I saw tomato plants in my garden center’s greenhouse. Is it time to buy and plant them now?

A: Normally we would look at last year’s final freeze date to plan for this year. The last freeze at my house last year was February 12; in 2022 it was March 13; and in 2021 it was February 22. With a spread of temperatures like that, it is hard to plan. If you garden in a small way, such as with containers, go ahead and buy your tomato plants. Put each in a one gallon pot of soil, and place the pots on your wagon or garden cart. Then you can put them in the sun during the day, and when the nights are below 50, pull them back into your garage or house. Then when it is time to plant in the ground, your tomato plants will have great root systems.

Q: May I prune my roses now? I have heard that February is the time to do that.

A: I’ve always been told to prune roses on Valentine’s Day. It is certainly an easy way to remember. Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, suggests pruning each bush to a height of 18 to 24 inches, leaving only four to six main canes, with each facing outward. The bush should look like an upside down umbrella. If you have old fashioned roses, prune about one third of the plant’s height. Be sure to remove old blooms, prune off damaged, diseased, or dead leaves, twigs, or blooms, and clean up the old rose debris under the plant to help with future disease problems.

Q: When can I plant spring flowers?

A: You should probably wait for the last freeze, although many of our cool season annuals made it through January. My snapdragons at the library look dreadful as do some of the flowering kale. But the kale in the back planter look like they will make it. My snapdragons at home, however, look great as does my kale. If you don’t mind planting again in a few months’ time, you might go ahead and put in a few cool season annuals now, such as alyssum, calendula, dianthus, pansy, sweet pea, and violas. Then, when the heat hits, plant your vinca, zinnias, marigold, petunias and other warm-season annuals.

Q: What time of year are trees, shrubs and vines fertilized?

A: Welsh says February is a good time to fertilize them so that nutrients can be absorbed by the roots in preparation for spring growth.

Q: My bluebonnets are up all around my mailbox. Should I be doing something to them?

A: You might hand pull weeds. I put flags around mine so that no one mows or walks on the area. Also, don’t fertilize. Bluebonnets manage on their own by nitrogen fixation. Bacterium form nodules on the roots of the bluebonnet and are able to convert atmospheric nitrogen to a form usable by the plant.

January 2024 –

Q: I received two beautiful poinsettias this year and would like to see if I can have them rebloom this coming year. What should I be doing?

A: First of all, make sure you are treating them correctly. Your holiday poinsettias should have bright natural light for at least 6 hours a day (or twice that amount of fluorescent light). The room temperature should be 68 to 72 degrees. Water when the soil is dry 1 to 2 inches deep. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac gives a schedule for you to use to make sure your plant will rebloom the following Christmas.

On New Year’s Day start fertilizing every 3 weeks. By February 14 prune your plant to 8 inches tall. On St. Patrick’s Day, place the plant outside in morning sun and afternoon shade. On Memorial Day trim 3 inches from the end of each branch and then repot into a larger container. Move into direct sun. On July 4 trim branches again and start weekly fertilizing. On Labor Day move the plant into indirect light. When cool nights are forecast, move indoors but the plant must still receive 6 hours of direct light through a window. Cut fertilizer back to once every three weeks. On September 21 give the plant 14 hours of darkness and 10 hours of bright light every day. (Welsh suggests a cardboard box placed over plant from about 5 p.m. to about 7 a.m.). Follow this until Thanksgiving. Then keep the plant in the brightest natural light you have.

This sounds like a massive amount of work to me. So the year before last, I put my Christmas poinsettia on the back porch with my orchids when the weather got warm enough. Amazingly, by Thanksgiving the leaves were starting to turn red. My back porch faces east and there are no bright lights back there so the plant was able to follow the natural rhythm of nights getting longer in fall.

Q: I have some freeze damage. Can I prune now? What about other garden chores?

A: Pruning is best done in February or March. If you leave the frozen plant material alone, it provides some insulation for healthy tissue, as well as gives hiding places for birds and other animals. However, you may clean debris from your planting beds in case there are insect pests, or plant diseases.

Bare-root roses, fruit and nut plants may be planted this month. Cool season annuals may also be planted. I have ornamental kale at the library this winter. They are starting to put on a little color. Bluebonnet transplants can also be planted. Most of mine in the lawn are already an inch or two high.

Keep your birdbaths filled. And if a freeze is predicted and the ground is dry, water. Welsh reminds us that plants are more likely to suffer freeze damage under dry soil conditions and water stress. Have a Happy and Green New Year!

2023 Ask a Master Gardener Articles

December 2023 –

Q: I have some old shrubs in front of my house that have seen their best days. I would like to plant new ones, perhaps natives, and I would also like a line of shrubs as a hedge down the side of my house because the yard is bordered by a busy street that comes in off of Austin Street. Any suggestions?

A: After checking my stand-by book, Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, I also looked over the Native Plant Society’s suggestions.

Welsh lists a lot of old timers which would be better replaced with natives. One old medium-sized shrub he suggests is Elaeagnus, a gray-green evergreen that grows to 6 feet. The Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden site does not care for Elaeagnus and considers it invasive in Virginia. This is another of those plants brought in from Japan, Korea and China because importers thought it would control erosion and provide food for wildlife as well as act as an ornamental hedge and screening plant. It has been in the U.S. since the early 1900s. The plant has root nodules that allow it to fix nitrogen, although if that is why it is planted, I would rather have bluebonnets which do the same thing.

The Native Plant Society Guadalupe Chapter in their handout “Invasive Plants and their Native Alternatives” suggests as replacements for privet or ligustrum the following shrubs: Barbados cherry, Cenizo, Cherry Laurel, Possumhaw, and Yaupon Holly. Of these, for street screening shrubs, I would use Cherry Laurel or Cenizo (Texas sage). The Cherry Laurel can be seen in use around the Seguin library parking lot. It grows to 10 feet with a width up to 6 feet. Dwarf Yaupon is nice as a low shrub in front of your house since it grows to 3 feet.

Other shrubs suitable for hedges and screening are Burford Holly and Nellie R. Stevens Holly. To me, the red berries on both hedges make it all worthwhile. I have a Burford Holly hedge in front of my house which screens my windows (and the sharp leaves deter burglars). Every winter it is covered with red berries. I use the clippings as inside decoration. Standard Burford grows to 8 feet tall and 6 feet wide, while the dwarf form grows to 5 feet with a width of 4 feet. Nellie R. Stevens is better for street screening since it grows to 20-30 feet, with a width of 10-12 feet.

Q: What can I buy my gardening friends for Christmas gifts?

A: One of the favorite gardening gifts I’ve ever received was a decent pair of gardening shears. Buy the bypass type which makes a nice clean cut. The anvil type of shears is best for cutting dead wood. Most gardeners will need one of these also, so buy both. My second favorite gift was a pair of leather rose gloves which I used for much more than just working with roses. The leather cuff came almost to my elbow and protected my forearms from many thorny plants. A more expensive gift might be an irrigation system, or drip lines in the flower beds, or even a water catchment system. Have a Happy Holiday.

 November 2023 –

Q: Is there a fall bloomer in the grass family that will grow in Seguin?

A: Indeed there is and it is blooming right now. As I walked in my front door this evening I noticed that my Gulf Muhly is covered with lovely pink fuzzy seed heads. Gulf or Coastal Muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) blooms in the fall. Wildflower.org shows bloom time as October and with our weather the way it is, late October and November might be the new time. This native grass likes sandy, pine openings; prairies; and dry, exposed ledges. However, it also grows in my front flower bed. It requires low to medium water, full sun, and grows from one to three feet. According to Wildflower, it has high deer resistance. I have not tried, but supposedly Gulf Muhly germinates easily. When the heads start to lose their pink color, use a comb to collect the seeds.

Q: I would like to give plants as gifts to my friends. Is there a quicker and easier way than growing them from seed?

A: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists a few easy to root plants. All it takes is a cutting which you place in garden soil. As a matter of fact, you need to cut a few stems off of your basil right now so that you will have a new small plant to put on your kitchen window sill this winter. Another plant that roots fast is the ficus. I recently trimmed my bonsai ficus and stuck the cuttings in a pot. I now have two decent sized plants to give away.

Other suggested easy growers are althea, Asiatic jasmine, bougainvillea, boxwood, Crape myrtle, English ivy, fig, Firebush, geranium, lantana, Photinia, plumbago, Pothos ivy, rosemary, salvias, and verbena. Welsh also lists roses as easy to root. Sometimes I have good luck and sometimes I don’t. Martha Gonzalez is one of the easiest roses to root that I’ve found.

Welsh reminds us that dormant, woody stems are best rooted during the fall and winter. On all cuttings, use a sharp knife or razor blade rather than pruning shears. The end of the cutting which will go in the soil should be cut at a 45 degree angle to give more area where roots will form. Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone if you have it. Make a pencil-sized hole in the soil and slip the cutting in, then firm the soil. At this point you can put the pot on your potting bench, or make a soda bottle greenhouse, or put it under lights. Just remember to keep the soil moist. I always try to root many more than I want since so many of mine die. However, if even one cutting makes it, that is one more than I had.

FYI: It is about time to bring in your houseplants that spent summer on the porch or outside. As soon as a freeze is forecast, my plumaria will go in the garage, and my orchids will go in the house under the lights. As always, don’t forget to keep those birdbaths filled.

October 2023 –

Q: I live in Seguin where there are some empty raised planter beds on several street corners. What kind of small tree could be planted there?

A: I like the small variety of Crape myrtle that is planted on the west corner of Donegan and S. Austin; however, Crape myrtle is not native. Wildflower.org, as well as a CPS Energy site for San Antonio trees, suggests small native trees such as cherry laurel, Mexican plum, and Texas redbud.

Mexican plum (Prunus Mexicana) and Texas redbud (Cercis Canadensis var. texensis) are both lovely trees and both have blooms. Mexican plum grows to 25 feet with a 25 foot spread, while Texas redbud grows to 10-20 feet with a 12-20 foot spread. I have one of each. However, both are deciduous which would leave a bare trunk in the winter.

Cherry laurel (Prunus caroliniana) is an evergreen which can grow to 40 feet with a 35 foot spread which sounds a little large. However, if you go to our library parking lot, you will note a border of small shrubs. These are cherry laurels which have been there several years and are still small. They also bloom and would probably do quite well although would have to be trimmed as a tree instead of a shrub. The only problem I can see is whether or not they would block the line of sight of a driver turning the corner although that is a problem no matter what you plant.

Q: Are there shrubs available with berries that are suitable for our Texas landscapes?

A: We have many shrubs that will do well here. One of my favorites is the American beautyberry. Of course the berries don’t stay on long because they are also favorites of birds, butterflies and deer. American holly and Nellie R. Stevens holly both have red fruit (and are usually my table decorations at Christmas). Possumhaw holly is a small tree with red berries in the winter. It is very decorative when the leaves fall off, leaving the berries behind.

Q: We’ve had such a dry year. Will we have any native fall bloomers?

A: As I look out my back door, I see buds atop my goldenrod (Solidago altissima). They have a yellow tint and will be opening soon. Many people don’t care for goldenrod, but I love it. This perennial is a favorite nectar source of bees and butterflies, and can be used as a dye plant. Wildflower.org says the height of the plant is determined by the fertility and moisture content of the soil. My patch of goldenrod managed to stay alive all summer in spite of the fact that I don’t water the back half of my lawn.

Another fall bloomer is frostweed (Verbesina virginica). As I write this, some of my frostweed is starting to set buds in spite of the lack of rain.

FYI: Don’t forget to keep your birdbaths topped up. I noticed honeybees drinking from my lily pond yesterday, and all three birdbaths were empty this morning.

September 2023 –

Q:  With our high temperatures, it just doesn’t seem like fall. When can I apply my fall fertilizer?

A: According to Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, do not apply your fall fertilizer until your warm season lawn (Bermuda, St. Augustine, Zoysia) stops growing. After a few cool nights of 50 or below, the growth of your warm season turf grasses will slow. When you don’t need to mow for two weeks that will be the time to fertilize. Welsh’s chart in his Texas Garden Almanac shows October 15 as the date in Central Texas. However, with our unusual weather, we need to check the night temperatures and play it by ear.

Q: Is it true that wildflowers are planted in the fall?

A: Yes, it is. Late August and September are be best times to plant seed. The Texas Department of Transportation, in an article on Bluebonnets, says that seed may be planted September 1 through December 15 of each year. They suggest planting no later than mid-November because this allows time for the seed to germinate and grow through the winter. During this time a good root system is formed which gives a sturdy plant and many flowers. Remember that bluebonnets like alkaline soil, moderate fertility, and well-drained soil.

We are extremely lucky here in Texas to have two large wildflower suppliers nearby. Wildseed Farms is east of Fredericksburg and is well worth a drive. Native American Seed is in Junction and also has a New Braunfels warehouse. Several seed planting suggestions come from Native American Seed’s catalog. One is to mix fluffy or small seeds with a carrier such as coarse sand, perlite, or rice hulls for even distribution. This makes it more free flowing when you broadcast the seed. Take half the seed mixture and spread it evenly over the whole area. Then cross back in opposite directions and spread the rest. We are reminded that most seeds should never be buried more than twice their diameter and small seeds should not be buried at all. Some gardeners use a rollerpacker after their seeds are broadcast, although, personally, I just walk all over the area. Then water frequently and lightly until the seeds germinate. Reduce watering over time as the plants become established and rain returns.

Q: What are the fall bloomers in our area? It always seems that nothing is in bloom in late fall.

A: One of my favorite fall bloomers is Goldenrod or Solidago. My stand in the back yard was having a hard time since it is in my unwatered area. However, the recent rain perked it back up. Another fall bloomer is Frostweed or Verbesina virginica. It is a lovely plant and mine have been doing fairly well in the drought. After they freeze, if you hurry right out, you can see the lovely freeze patterns of the water exuded from the stems. Chrysanthemums, Frikarti aster, and Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) also bloom in the fall. And in the winter and early spring, we have the lovely violets (Viola odorata) although I will be surprised if any of mine made it through the drought.

FYI: Keep those birdbaths filled. Mine are being emptied every day.

August 2023 –

Q:  My poor rose bushes are very unhappy from the heat. Is there anything that I should be doing to help them?

A: The Texas Garden Almanac suggests starting in mid-August to prepare for fall blooms. Roses can be pruned back about 25 percent. This will cause new growth which will lead to blooms. Old blooms and diseased rose leaves should be removed. Fertilize with straight nitrogen at the drip line of each bush in mid-August. Be sure to water after you prune and fertilize and try to keep the water off of the foliage and blooms (although if you have lawn irrigation, that will be almost impossible). Mulch can be added under the plants to reduce soil moisture evaporation and to help reduce weed growth.

While we are on soil moisture, I would like to pass along a tree watering hint. Most sources suggest laying a hose at the tree’s drip line and moving it around. My husband took a number of those big buckets from one of the big box stores and drilled one eighth or even quarter-inch holes about one-half inch from the bottom all around the bucket. He then placed these around the drip line of the tree he wanted to water, and filled each with water. The water came out slowly which allowed it to penetrate the soil. No wasted water, and no moving the hose.

Q: I spotted poison ivy in my flower bed. Any suggestions for dealing with it?

A: I have had good luck spraying the small plants with glyphosate (carefully – and only on the poison ivy). One or two plants required a second spraying. The Texas Workers’ Compensation Commission has a great fact sheet on the Internet called HS04-0641(11-04) Poison Ivy, Oak, and Sumac Fact Sheet. It has many helpful hints including the fact that speed is of the essence. If you touch poison ivy, within ten minutes, clean the exposed skin with isopropyl alcohol. Then wash with cold water (no soap). Soap should not be used with the cold water wash because it picks up the urushiol (a chemical in the poison ivy sap) from the skin and moves it around. Then take a shower with soap and warm water. Clean your shoes, clothes, and tools with alcohol and water. (Wear gloves, and throw them away when you are finished.)

Q: I have a Warren pear tree and a Kieffer pear tree. How do I know when the fruit is ripe?

A: I would say when you see the squirrels eating them, except that they’ve been doing that all along. Warren pears ripen in August; Kieffer, our canning pear, ripens in late September. They are ready to harvest when they change from hard to firm. Finish ripening inside says AgriLife because pears remaining on the tree too long ripen poorly and have poorer texture and flavor. Refrigerate after ripening.

FYI: I leave you with a lovely quote from Extension Horticulturist Doug Welsh when he was writing about the lawn in the summer drought: Realize that brown is a color, too. And, remember to keep those birdbaths full.

July 2023 –

Q: I have a mature live oak that did not produce leaves last summer. As it was mature, I wasn’t watering it, despite the heat. This year, it’s sprouting from the trunk. Should I cut it down, or top it out?

A: First of all, why didn’t it produce leaves? Oak Wilt, stress from cold, stress from lack of water, herbicide—any of these could be a cause. I think you should probably contact an arborist to come out and look at your tree. Your local extension office should be able to help you find one.

The Austintexas.gov site has a Tree Care pdf that lists signs of stress. These include leaves that are scorched, wilting, unusual colors, prematurely shedding or turning brown without falling. Twigs and branches that are dying might indicate root problems and overall tree decline. Cut or damaged roots. Mushrooms around the base of tree. Signs of internal decay on large trees or limbs should be inspected by a certified arborist for risk (such as cavity openings, nesting holes, mushrooms, carpenter ants, termites and missing wood).

As for the water question, wildflower.org thinks that even mature trees need water infrequently. A young new tree needs water at least twice a week. This is effective because the roots are close to the trunk. As the tree matures, the roots go farther out. A mature oak will have roots at least two to three times the circumference of height of the tree. This will be beyond the shade line or dripline of the tree. Wildflower suggests a sprinkler moved from place to place around the root area.

On small trees I have had good luck cutting off dead wood and choosing one of the sprouts as a new leader. But your tree sounds awfully large for you to use this technique. Again, I suggest you have an arborist come on site, look, and tell you what to do.

Q: My friend tells me that she starts her fall tomatoes, squash, and pumpkins in July. Why so early? And why should I want a fall garden?

A: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that the quality of fall crops is much higher with less chance of bitter taste developing. Also, rainfall is more frequent in the fall. Insect pest populations are on the decline, and the weather is more pleasant for you (at least we will hope so this year). Fall gardening takes a few math skills. You need to check your seed packets because some plants take two months from seed to the beginning of harvest, and others take three months. Your warm season crops will be killed by the first fall frost. So look at last year’s first frost and count back three months to know when to plant. My first freeze last year was December 23 but who knows what this year’s will be. When Welsh wrote his book, the first frost date for San Antonio was November 28 (so we would have planted August 28). My suggestion for a small garden is not to plant from seed, but to put in small plants from the nursery.

June 2023 –

Q: We have had such a lovely spring with nice rain, but now summer is coming. What are some good plants that can withstand the Texas heat?

A: Summer nighttime temperature in Texas is the problem, not daytime heat, according to Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist. Plants need lower nighttime temperatures in order to rest at night and reduce their respiration. Otherwise, respiration continues and the plant wears itself out. Annuals that have heat tolerance are marigolds, periwinkle, portulaca or moss rose, purslane, scaevola, and zinnias. Sun tolerant caladiums and coleus also do well. Perennials for the Texas summers are Firebush (Hamelia patens), Gold Star Esperanza, hardy hibiscus, lantana, petunia, phlox, plumbago, salvias and verbena. And remember, lantana, petunia, plumbago, all salvias and verbena attract hummingbirds to your garden.

Q: Are there particular plants that will attract birds to my yard?

A: Plants, shrubs and trees that have berries, fruits, seeds or nuts are available for our area. This includes American beautyberry, holly, elms, figs, native persimmons, oaks, pecans, sunflowers, tomatoes, and yaupon holly. Everyone has trouble with birds pecking their ripe tomatoes. I pick mine when the bottom of the tomato turns white with a tinge of red, and bring it in the house where it continues ripening.

Q: My cat has been chewing on my potted bromeliad sitting on the window sill. Is it poisonous?

A: All the sources I found on the Internet say that bromeliads are not poisonous, but could be toxic. In other words, that cat could vomit or get sick or have an allergic reaction, but won’t die. Bromeliads and African violets are listed as two safe plants to have in the house with cats. However, you probably don’t want your bromeliad to have raggedy cat eaten leaves. Maybe you could place it in a window in a cat free room.

Q: When do I raise the mowing height of my lawnmower?

A: Normally we increase our mowing heights during summer to decrease lawn water use and increase drought tolerance. The recommended heights in the Texas Garden Almanac are two inches for Bermuda, four inches for St. Augustine, and six inches for buffalo grass.

Q: What can we do to conserve water this summer?

A: First of all, mulch your flower beds, shrubs and around young fruit and shade trees. Not only does mulch reduce moisture evaporation from the soil, it also reduces weeds and keeps soil temperatures lower. Another way to conserve is to remove weeds from your lawn and beds because they are competing for water. Do not over fertilize the lawn because this adds to excess growth (and you will need to mow and water more). Hopefully by now you have had your irrigation system checked for the beginning of the summer season to make sure that your sprinkler heads are not wasting water on sidewalks, driveways, etc.

May 2023 –

Q: When is it time to change out my cool season annuals?

A: Pretty much any time now. I notice that the flowering cabbage at the library is starting to lose leaves, and the snapdragons are about bloomed out. I cut them back but as soon as we get our usual heat, they won’t be happy. Warm season annuals are marigold, penta, periwinkle, portulaca, purslane, salvia, and scaevola. My favorite of these is the periwinkle (vinca) because it does so well in those big pots.

Q: How can I protect my vegetable plants? I just picked my first tomato and there was a hole on the bottom where something has been eating.

A: If you are protecting fruits and vegetables from squirrels and birds, you can use plastic netting. Cover the plant to the ground and put soil over the bottom ends. Make sure you overlap the netting, because if there is a way to get to the fruit, squirrels and birds can find it.

Other damage can be caused by pill bugs, snails and slugs. You can control them by using slug and snail baits. Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, says that some success has been achieved using saucers of beer and two-inch-wide bands of calcite clay (kitty litter).

Stinkbugs and leaf-footed bugs can also be a problem. Malcolm Beck used to say that the best deterrent was your shadow. In other words, check your plants daily and hand pick the bugs off before they go too long and get out of hand. I have had good luck grabbing these bugs and throwing them in a bucket of soapy water. Another friend smashes them with a brick.

If you must use pesticide, Welsh warns us to use the least toxic, effective pesticide labeled for the job. Notice that he mentions the label.  Read the label carefully and talk to your local nursery person particularly if you are using it on vegetables. Also, remember to wear gloves, don’t spray while the wind is blowing, and wear a mask. Take into account that there are many good bugs out there. To protect bees, spray in the late evening or early morning. Other good bugs include lady bugs and lacewings whose larvae eat aphids. Praying mantids eat young grasshoppers. Parasitic wasps lay their eggs in aphids and army worm caterpillars. Then when the larvae hatch, they eat the insect.

The simple answer to the bug and animal problem is to plant more than you need. Then if the problem gets ahead of you, you still have enough fruit and vegetables for your family, as well as for the local wildlife.

Q: What can I plant in the shade and partial shade?

A:  Several of the sages will do well: cedar sage, lyre leaf sage, and mountain sage. Inland sea oats is a favorite landscape plant as is red and yellow columbine. Turks Cap grows well; just don’t let it get away from you. Beautyberry, a wonderful shrub, is another good choice.

April 2023 –

Q: What is the plant that is all over my yard? When I walk past it, the leaves stick to the legs of my pants. Should I use weed killer on it?

A: This is a question that comes up every year. Galium aparine, an annual in the Madder family, has many nicknames, including Sticky Weed, Sticky Willy, Velcro Plant, Cleavers, Goosegrass, and Catchweed Bedstraw. It is native throughout North America. Do try to pull it all up because you don’t want the seeds to form. Luckily the plant can be pulled out of the ground quite easily by hand. I already have gathered two large piles of plants. Weed killer does not need to be used.

Another question that comes up this time of year is whether or not to use a weed and feed product on your lawn. Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, assures us that we should not do this because the timing for fertilizers is not the same as the timing for herbicides. He says that pre-emergent herbicides for summer weeds should be applied in late winter (February), and spring lawn fertilizers should be applied in mid-spring after you have mowed the lawn twice and it is actively growing.

Q: When can I move my plumaria and other plants back outside?

A: I have not moved mine yet, but will probably do so quite soon. I normally let my Phalaenopsis orchids spend the summer on the back porch (mainly to save having to use my grow light), but I want to enjoy their blooms in my house a little longer. I notice that my neighbors already have their potted plants back outside. Make sure that the foliage on your plants doesn’t sunscald. Now is a good time to fertilize your potted outdoor plants.

Q: What vegetable gardening chores should I be doing now?

A: Fertilize your vegetable plants. Check your garden daily for pests and other problems. If your fruit trees have too much fruit, it is best to thin the young fruit to allow the remaining ones to grow bigger. Otherwise, as happened to me last year, all the heavy pears can cause the limb to bend or break.

Q: I’ve been told to buy produce in the store when it is in season in Texas. What produce is harvested in April and is available in local markets?

A: Many local vegetables and fruits are available in April: green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, greens, onions, peaches and strawberries. Grapefruit and oranges are also probably still available. Look forward to May when much more produce comes into season.

FYI: Don’t forget to keep your bird baths full. And remember, don’t mow down your bluebonnets and other wildflowers when they finish blooming. Let them go to seed. Your lawn may look a little ragged but you will have many more plants next year.

March 2023 –

Q: The Texas mountain laurels are blooming and smell just wonderful. What other spring blooming shrubs will grow in this area?

A: There are quite a few spring bloomers that we have around Seguin. Both the Japanese wisteria and the Texas wisteria will grow here even though both like acid soils the best. There is one on Meadowlake Drive near me that blooms every year. Pyracantha, although not a native, grows here. Ornamental pears can be found all over Seguin. Doug Welsh, extension horticulturist, considers Aristocrat to be a variety that is superior to the Bradford. The Eastern redbud, the Mexican redbud, and the Texas redbud grow well here. I am particularly fond of the Mexican redbud because of its glossy foliage. Another native, the Mexican buckeye, is also one of my favorites with its lovely pink flowers and interesting seed capsules.

The showiest little tree around Seguin is the Mexican plum, Prunus Mexicana, a Texas native with fragrant white flowers. Wildflower.org says that the mature trunk of the tree becomes satiny blue-gray with darker, horizontal striations. My tree is fairly young so I have yet to see this. It was covered in blooms last year, and one or two are starting to show now. This native is a low water user, likes sun or part shade, is cold tolerant, and likes dry to moist well-drained soils that can be sandy loam, clay loam, clay or limestone-based. The fruit is edible, and the tree is the larval host of the Tiger Swallowtail and the Cecropia moth. It is not deer resistant and is of special value to native bees.

Q: When do I apply my spring lawn fertilizer?

A: Apply lawn fertilizer after you have mowed the lawn grass twice, says Welsh. You want to make sure that the grass is ready to use the fertilizer so it must be actively growing. (In the fall, you apply it after the grass has stopped growth.) Remember that you need to apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. Hopefully you have already tested your soil so you know what else your particular yard needs.

Q: My Rodeo tomato, which you told me to place in a bigger pot so that it could be taken inside in case of a freeze, is growing by leaps and bounds. When is it time to put it in the ground and to plant warm-season vegetables?

A: The short answer is that you can plant when the cool temperatures are above 50 degrees. This includes cantaloupe, cucumber, eggplant, green beans, okra, onions, peppers, potato, pumpkin, summer squash, southern pea, sweet corn, sweet potato, tomato, and watermelon. To be safe, most vegetable planting is recommended to be two to six weeks after the last freeze (and, of course, how do we know that it is going to be the last freeze!) Last year’s last freeze was March 13 when it was 28 degrees at my house.

Feburary 2023 –

Q: When should I fertilize my lawn? I want it to look nice this year.

A: Do not fertilize your lawn until you have mown twice. This advice comes from Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac. By waiting, you know that the grass is actively growing and is ready to use the applied fertilizer.

Q: Is it safe to start my spring vegetable and flower plants? I would like early blooms and fruit.

A: Remember that the last freeze in Seguin in 2021 was February 22, and the last freeze in 2022 was March 13. If you really want to begin now, plant in containers that can be moved indoors if needed. In fact, I always buy my tomato transplants as soon as they are available and plant each one in a gallon container of good soil. Since I don’t need many plants, I put the six pots in my little red wagon so that it can be easily moved.

Speaking of spring flowers, there are many types that are perfect for Texas. We’ve been enjoying our cool season annuals which included dianthus, ornamental cabbage (look at the ones at the entrance to the library), pansies, snapdragons, stock and violets. It will soon be time to replace them with warm season annuals. And, of course, my favorite (because it is so easy to grow and is so colorful) is the periwinkle or annual vinca. Now is a good time to plan your color scheme and perhaps try different annuals than usual, such as amaranthus with its colorful foliage, or a bed of cosmos which can be seeded or transplanted. Purslane and portulaca both have excellent heat tolerance. Or you might try a bed of tall zinnias, or a bed of even taller sunflowers.

Q: We’ve had a recent rain, but I am afraid of a dry summer. When can I do to help my plants?

A: Mulching is one of the most important things you can do for your garden. Research by Welsh showed that un-mulched shrubs could lose two-thirds of the water applied on the soil through evaporation and only one-third through transpiration. Mulching has other benefits. Personally I think that nothing looks nicer than cedar mulch around the plants by my front door. And the smell is a wonderful reminder of Christmas year round. As the mulch decomposes, it provides organic matter to the soil which is another benefit.

Q: When do I prune my roses?

A: That depends on whether you have spring-blooming climbing roses or other types of roses. I have heritage roses and a few hybrids so I prune mine in late winter. Traditionally this is done on Valentine’s Day. Don’t ask me why, but it does make it easy to remember. Summer blooming shrubs such as these roses generally bloom on shoots that grow from this spring’s growth. When I prune, I also strip off the old leaves, most of which are already dead and gone, and clean out dead leaves and twigs from under the bush.

FYI: Don’t forget to keep your birdbaths full. The birds and animals empty mine every evening.

January 2023 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: Can I trim away the dead and frozen leaves from my plants? I seem to remember reading that this is bad.

A: If you can stand the looks of frozen plants, please leave the blackened and wilted plants alone. Below that frozen area new growth may still be possible. If you want to help, make sure your garden and plants remain moist because water gives off heat. Damp soil keeps the heat better than dry soil. Also, remember that Snowmageddon happened during the month of February, and we will probably have some more freezing weather before it is time to prune.

I was surprised which plants survived Christmas week. My Swiss chard bit the dust, but my broccoli and flowering cabbage plants look fine. Luckily, the ornamental cabbage is edible. And when we have more below freezing weather, they should also survive, even to as low as 5 degrees F. according to the Wisconsin Horticulture Extension site. The article suggests that the often bitter taste of the cabbage can be reduced by boiling the leaves, discarding the water, then boiling again or sautéing in olive oil.

Be sure to keep your birdbaths full of water and make sure the ice is broken so that birds can drink. That was brought home to me when I looked outside and saw a dove walking around on my frozen water lily pond looking for water. (I took a kettle of boiling water out and poured it on top of the ice.)

Q: When are bare root roses and trees planted? Which roses have you had the best luck with?

A: They are usually planted in January when plants are more dormant in order to increase their chances of survival. Remember our extremely hot summers. Usually we know when to plant because our local nurseries bring in the bare root stock.

My favorite roses over the years have been Carefree Beauty (Katy Road Pink) and Martha Gonzales. Martha Gonzales was a “rustled” rose from the home of a Navasota gardener. It has red single flowers and is great as a shrub, hedge, or border. It is also one of those roses you can trim with hedge trimmers and it still looks great. I have made a number of cuttings from my parent plant.

Carefree Beauty was introduced in 1977 to withstand the cold and long winters of the Midwest. Texas AgriLife Extension chose it as an Earth-Kind rose for our hot, dry summers. When I first bought my bush it was known as Katy Road Pink because it was “found” on Katy Road in Houston. Whatever you call it, this rose bush is a winner. Wonderful pink semi-double flowers, smells good, has rose hips, roots well, and appears (according to Texas AgriLife) to tolerate saline irrigation water when drip irrigated. It blooms in spring, summer and fall and the foliage stays healthy. (I keep the fallen leaves picked up to discourage problems.)

Either one of these roses (or both) will be rewarding. Have a Happy New Year!

2022 Ask a Master Gardener Articles

December 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: What can I give a gardening friend for Christmas that will actually be useful?

A: Doug Welsh’s gardening almanac suggests bird feeders and birdbaths. I think, instead of feeders, the gardener should have planted nectar, fruit and larval plants. I do believe that bird baths in our area are extremely important, however. All sizes are appropriate: large and low for wildlife, very shallow for butterflies, high with a lip for birds. All should be sturdy. My area has free roaming critters that knock over plastic birdbaths.

Another suggestion I have for a gift is a CoCoRaHS rain gauge. CoCoRaHS (which stands for Community Collaborative Rain, Hail and Snow Network) is a non-profit network of volunteers who work together to measure and map precipitation. I have had one of their gauges for a number of years and find it easy to use. The person who receives your gift will have the opportunity to send data to the network and see how the observations can be used.

High-quality pruning shears can be another gift for your friend. Many gardeners just go to a local big box store instead of researching really quality equipment. Your friend will thank you for many years for a gift of top-of-the-line tools.

A rather strange gift that you might consider is whirligigs. My son knows I love them, so every couple of years he gets me a new one. (He also bought me a garden archway one year.)

If you are a handyman (or woman), a lovely gift would be the offer of a free tool sharpening and oiling. Our shovels, shears, and pruning knives need upkeep just like everything else.

Q: Do you have suggestions for the care of holiday plants? While shopping for Thanksgiving, I noticed a lot of holiday plants in grocery baskets.

A: First of all, be extremely careful in transporting your plant. Those blooms and branches break easily. Next, find a very bright spot in your home where the plant can get at least 6 hours a day of light. (I keep mine near my grow light stand and the window.) House temperatures should be between 68 and 72 according to Extension Horticulturist Doug Welsh. Only water your plant when the soil feels dry one to two inches down. Don’t overwater. I always remove the fancy paper because it can hold water. (If you must use a fancy container or paper, drain thoroughly before you put the plant in.)

Fertilize once during the holidays. Check for insects when you bring the plant into the house because you don’t want to infect your other plants. Remember to keep your plant out of cold drafts or hot air or by heaters or fireplaces. Keep an eye on your holiday plant because the indoor environment is usually very drying or your curious cat likes to chew leaves. Many of our holiday plants, if taken care of, will last way past the holidays. My neighbor gave me a poinsettia last year which sat on the porch all summer. Still in the same pot, it is now putting out red leaves.

November 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: Can I still plant cool-season vegetables?

A: Our local nurseries still have plants available. I bought a pot of Swiss chard today to put alongside my broccoli. The nursery also still had cauliflower, kale, spinach, and a number of herbs that will do well. You should remember to still keep watch over your vegetables for cabbage loopers and other insects. Also, as Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, reminds us, even vegetable crops growing in the winter will benefit from fertilizer.

Q: Can herbs be grown indoors in the winter?

A: I always keep a cut stem of basil in a jar of water on my kitchen window sill. It grows roots and lasts all winter. If you have good natural light, herb transplants in pots or a container garden can be grown, such as chives, green onions, mint, parsley, sage, and thyme.

Q: When can I make cuttings from my shrubs, trees and woody perennials?

A: Dormant woody stems from these types of plants are best rooted during the fall and winter. Welsh lists a number of plants you may want to try rooting: althea, bougainvillea, Crape myrtle, fig, Firebush, lantana, rosemary, and verbena. Dormant cuttings can be placed into the garden or into pots. As with your spring cuttings, cut the end to be placed in the soil at a 45 degree angle, then dip in a powder rooting hormone. Use a pencil or your finger to make a hole in the soil, then slip the cutting into the hole and firm the soil around the cuttings. Remember to keep your soil moist but not sopping wet.

Q: I’ve just moved to Seguin. What flowering plants should I be seeing around town in November?

A: You should still be seeing summer annuals such as vinca and marigolds since we haven’t had a freeze yet. Petunias, pansies, dianthus and stock have made their appearance in the nurseries and in peoples’ front lawns. My neighbor has a row of chrysanthemums in his front bed. Snapdragon plants are appearing although I haven’t changed out the library planters yet. Gulf muhly is starting to look really nice as is fall aster. Lantana, Gregg’s blue mist, salvia and Turk’s cap is still blooming. This is a great time of year when blooming plants overlap because the temperatures are still above freezing. In fact my tomatoes are still setting fruit.

Q: I’ve received several garden catalogs listing really neat looking plants. How do I know if they will grow here in Seguin?

A: Luckily Seguin has a very active Master Gardener chapter, a Native Plant Society of Texas chapter, and a Master Naturalist chapter. The Guadalupe County AgriLife Extension office can put you in touch with a member of one of these groups. Planting poorly adapted plants in an area where they don’t usually grow can be a frustrating experience and one you shouldn’t have to go through.

October 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: When do I do my fall lawn fertilizing? I see my neighbors already applying theirs.

A: Normally, it’s around October 15 for this area. According to Doug Welsh, Extension Horticulturist, you should fertilize when leaf and shoot growth have stopped. So far we have not had a 50 degree or below night to signal our lawn to stop growing. The rule of thumb is that when you don’t need to mow for two weeks, then it is time to fertilize. Fall fertilization aids in fall color and increases winter hardiness. The fertilizer should be high in nitrogen and potassium, with little or no phosphorus. Welsh suggests a 2-1-2 or 1-0-1 ratio using one pound of actual nitrogen per one thousand square feet.

Q: Are there any flowers for fall bloom? I am particularly interested in native plants.

A: As I look out over my back yard, I see a display of goldenrod and clumps of Frostweed in bloom. All have butterflies and hummingbirds and bees. Of course, you may not have the room to grow these. In a wetter year, my goldenrod would be 8 feet tall. This year it is 5 to 6 feet tall. Since it spreads by rhizomes and quickly fills an area, plant it where you can mow around the plants to keep them contained. My Frostweed is distributing seeds (and rhizomes) around the back of my lot and is now in a lot of spots that I wasn’t planning to put it. Luckily, I love those large leaves and look forward to the first big freeze and the display of frozen “ice” that comes out of the stems. The fall aster is a fall bloomer that doesn’t spread so much. You can check out the clump at the Park West pollinator garden.

Or you could plant fall annuals such as snapdragon, stock and pansy. I have had really good luck with my snapdragons lasting through the winter and blooming way into late spring (except for the Snowmageddon year when I had to replant them). Another fall bloomer is one of our native grasses, Gulf or coastal muhly, which grows one and a half to two feet tall. It has beautiful fuzzy pink seed heads and is particularly gorgeous with the sun shining through it. So far this year my clump is just sitting there with no blooms. I haven’t given up yet.

Q: It is time to think about what I am going to do about my fallen leaves. I do not have a compost bin, and I hate the idea of just throwing the leaves away. Do you have suggestions?

A: Remember that fallen leaves contain 50 to 80 percent of the nutrients a plant extracts from the soil and air during the growing season. It would be a real waste to throw them away. Hopefully you have a mulching lawn mower. If so, you can just mow your leaves and leave them on the lawn as fertilizer. If you have too many leaves, still mow them, then gather them and place them in your flower beds and vegetable gardens as mulch. The mowed leaves break down much faster than whole leaves. Another place to spread leaves is on pathways where walking additionally breaks down the leaves. The local community gardens in Seguin also accept leaves. Be sure that you are only taking leaves—no trash please.

September 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q:  The rain has been lovely. What can I do in the garden right now?

A: The weeds have never stopped growing. However, now that it is not 110 degrees out, you can more comfortably pull them out. Perennials and annuals that are fall bloomers are available for planting. Autumn sage and mealy cup sage both bloom in the fall with white, red, pink or salmon flowers on the autumn sage, and blue, white, or purple flowers on the mealy cup sage. Chrysanthemums are fall bloomers and should be in the nursery already. I would probably plant them in partial shade since it is still very hot.

The fall aster is a lovely fall bloomer. Check out the ones at Park West in the butterfly garden. Another fall bloomer is the skullcap (Scutellaria suffrutescens). Mexican mint marigold and Mexican oregano both bloom in the summer and fall and both are great additions to your herb garden. As a matter of fact, you should probably go ahead and sow your cilantro seed so that you will have some when your tomatoes ripen.  I am waiting for snapdragon, my favorite flower, to appear in the nursery. That, to me, always signifies that fall is really here.

Doug Welsh, Extension horticulturist, reminds us that late August and September are the best times to plant wildflower seed. Our local nurseries carry wildflower seed, as well our local beekeeper and honey store. You can also buy seeds online from a Texas wildflower seed company. Welsh lists 15 select wildflowers for Texas landscapes in his Texan Garden Almanac. This list includes Black-eyed Susan, bluebell, bluebonnet, Drummond phlox, gaillardia/Indian blanket, Gayfeather, Indian paintbrush, horse mint, Maximilian sunflower, mealy cup sage, Mexican hat, pink evening primrose, plains coreopsis, standing cypress, and wine cup. Follow the packet directions for planting and remember to pull weeds, don’t fertilize, and don’t remove the dead blooms or plants until mid-June or when all the plants and flowers die. (I know it looks bad. Put up a small sign that says “Wildflower Seed Area” or something like that.) You did know, by the way, that Texas has 6 bluebonnet species native to Texas.

Q: When should I plant trees?

A: Trees are best planted in the fall, winter or spring. Plant in full sun, in a hole twice as wide as the root-ball, and no deeper than the root-ball. Welsh adds that you should use the soil you took out of the hole to backfill around the root-ball. Use no soil amendments. Pack the soil firmly to eliminate air pockets. Build a four inch berm around the edge of the hole. Cover the area with mulch while keeping it away from the tree trunk. Water after planting. For the first week water every day. The second week water every other day. The third week water every third day. The fourth week water once a week. When we planted trees in the park we kept them watered for the first year.

FYI: Don’t forget our wildlife. Keep feeding them, and keep those birdbaths clean and full.

August 2022 – 

Here is the August article attached and also pasted below. Clara Mae

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: With this heat, the potted plants by my front door have died. I admit that I am not good at remembering to water. What can I plant that will be in the sun, can stand a little neglect, and that looks good? Can it be snake plant? Also, my mailbox is right by the front door, so the plant must not be able to attack the mail person.

A: Snake plant or Sansevieria trifasciata is a great plant. Every household had a pot or two when I was growing up. It will also grow outside in Texas in your front door pot. If the leaves develop burn spots, that area by your southern front door may be getting too much sun. You will have to wait and see. If you have to move it inside, remember that this is one of the most efficient plants for cleaning the air by removing toxins such as formaldehyde that are present in homes and offices, according to an article in the Journal of Food Agriculture and Environment. The snake plant or Mother-in-Laws Tongue also was used for fiber cordage before World War II. (You could make your own rope if you wish.)

My other suggestions for potted plants in full sun would be rosemary (maybe with lemongrass for height if you are using the low growing rosemary), different sized sedums and other succulents, as well as foxtail asparagus fern. Because I understand your concern for the mail person, I won’t suggest planting yucca, a small sago palm, or palmetto (although they would look great).

Q: I am interested in growing a few crape myrtles in my yard. Do I want single trunk or multiple trunked specimens? Are they different varieties?

A: Crape myrtles are interesting plants. According to Doug Welsh, Texas A&M Extension horticulturist, the number of trunks affects the final size of the plant. In other words, the fewer the trunks the crape myrtle has, the taller it will be. As far as varieties go, there are different sizes and colors, plus specimens that are resistant to powdery mildew, and some resistance to crape myrtle aphid. Miniatures range from 2 to 3 feet high, dwarf varieties are 3 to 6 feet, semi-dwarf are 5 to 12 feet, large shrub or small tree varieties range from 10 to 20 feet, and tree varieties are 20 feet and over. I have a Red Rocket in the back yard that is as tall as the surrounding hackberry trees.

My Red Rocket was bought without considering its ultimate height. Luckily I read a little bit about it before planting it. I ended up choosing one of the smaller varieties for the front door and put the Red Rocket out in back. Talk to your local nursery owner before purchasing your crape myrtle. Be sure to know beforehand where you are going to plant it and how high you expect it to be. It is a lot easier to start with a smaller variety instead of having to constantly prune or top the tree to keep it the size you want.

FYI: Keep those bird baths filled. This heat is brutal. Also, have large low stable water containers for outdoor animals, both wild and domestic.

July 2022 –

Q: With this drought the deer are coming into my yard (along with everything else). What should I have planted that they won’t eat?

A: The problem is that, if we have a drought, or food is hard to come by, deer will eat even the things that they don’t normally. Also, deer sometimes eat young plants, yet won’t eat that same plant when it matures. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists some rarely eaten/deer proof plants. These include Texas mountain laurel, Cenizo or Texas sage, cactus (those with spines), Carolina jessamine, Santolina, dusty miller, mealy cup/blue sage, Mexican mint marigold, periwinkle, and rosemary. He notes that most herbs are deer resistant. I guess that is because of the odor.

Animals might be coming to your yard for water also. My bird baths are knocked over almost every morning when I get up. I have several at different heights thinking that would help, but it doesn’t seem to. I also have two small fishponds that are constantly used by birds and squirrels.

Q: In past years I started my fall garden in July. When do you suggest I start it?

A: That’s a hard question to answer. We normally count back 120 days from the first fall frost and put in our transplants. My first “fall” frost was January 2 of this year (with my last freeze March 13). So by that, I could have still planted a fall garden in October. I think you are on your own this year. I will probably try some fall greens when it cools off a little and if my tomatoes don’t look too bad, I will just cut them back.

Q: I like to grow in containers, but am having a hard time in this heat. In fact, some of the planters downtown also look dried out. Any suggestions?

A: I water the containers at the library every other day unless it’s been real cloudy or has rained. The trick I use is to stick my fore finger in each container and check for moisture. If your finger feels cool and moist one to two inches down, don’t water that day. Remember that too much water is just as bad as too little water. (I also have a very nice potting soil in those planters.) If you like, you could mulch the top of the containers to help conserve moisture using an organic mulch. (Personally I prefer a mulch that breaks down rather than rocks. I think it adds to the soil.)

Doug Welsh suggests using “hydrogels” (these are water-holding polymers) in your potting mixture so that you won’t have to water so often. You can buy the product in nurseries. Follow the directions on the label, says Welsh, and don’t use too much.

Again, even if you are letting your yard go to conserve water, please don’t forget those bird baths and outside containers of water for the animals. Change the water frequently.

June 2022 –

Q:  My house faces west. Some of the potted plants by the front door really look bad. Are there any plants that can stand the heat and the sun?

A: I have the same problem. My beautiful geranium looks almost cooked. (To solve that problem I moved it to the back door). Some plants will survive. The old fashioned periwinkle (vinca) does really well and comes in white, pink, deep pink, and almost purple. You can’t go wrong with vinca. Zinnias do well and the butterflies like them. You can buy zinnia seeds for different heights, colors, and flower types. Personally I have no luck with marigolds. They always get spider mites. Portulaca and purslane are two more sun and heat tolerant plants.

If you are planting perennials, Hamelia patens (Firebush) does well although it freezes to the ground in the winter. Esperanza and lantana are two more heat and sun tolerant plants although both freeze back. To tell the truth, I like that in a plant. Once the frozen foliage is cut off, it’s like you have a whole new plant each year. Salvias and verbena also do well here.

Q: I really like birds but they are pecking on my tomatoes. Suggestions?

A: Doug Welsh, an extension horticulturist, suggests that as soon as the bottom or blossom end of the tomato turns from green to white with a tinge of red, it is mature, and can be picked to ripen indoors away from the birds. You could also use bird netting to protect your crops, but I have not had good luck. One year I covered my blueberries with netting. Hearing cries and shrieks I rushed out and found a hawk attacking a mockingbird that was caught in the netting. Very upsetting!

In this hot weather please remember to keep your bird baths full. I don’t worry about feeding the birds because once the figs ripen there is enough fruit for everyone (including squirrels, possums, raccoons, etc.)

Q: Is there a way to conserve water and still have plants?

A: Mulch your flower beds, shrubs, vegetable gardens and around young fruit and shade trees. Welsh reminds us that mulch conserves water by reducing moisture evaporation from the soil surface. It also keeps soil temperature more moderate although I don’t think that using the new black mulch is the way to go because it absorbs the heat. During a drought, raise the mowing height of your mower. The height for St. Augustine grass should be 4 inches or more. Height for Bermuda lawns is 2 inches, and for buffalo grass lawns, 6 inches.  Also, do not over fertilize. Too much fertilizer causes excess growth. If you have an irrigation system, water the lawn and garden between sundown and sunrise because that is when the wind and temperatures are lower. I water about 4 in the morning so that the moisture doesn’t sit on the leaves too long and cause fungal problems.

May 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: When can I mow my wildflowers? They are starting to look a little ratty.

A: Wildflower.org says that you should wait to mow until at least half of the late-blooming species have dropped their seeds. There are a few more things you should know. First, do not fertilize the wildflower area or use insecticides and fungicides. Native wildflowers are already accustomed to growing in your soil, and they are also more pest resistant than non-natives. Other wildflower suggestions from Wildflower.org include the following: do not bury your wildflower area in mulch. Either don’t mulch at all, or use a very light layer. Also, if you plant winter rye, keep it away from your wildflower area as it is allelopathic and thwarts the growth of nearby plants including your wildflowers.

Q: When should I change out my winter annuals for my summer annuals (and what grows well in the warm season of the year)?

A: My rule of thumb for changing is when the winter annuals seem to look beat up from the heat. I keep my snapdragons at the library looking good by cutting the flower heads when the top one on the stem finishes flowering. Of course, this keeps them from going to seed, but I am not planning to raise them from seed. Warm season annuals include marigold, pentas, periwinkle, portulaca, purslane, salvia and scaevola. My friend Myrtle always has pots of cockscomb around her house (and has taken many awards at the fair). Cockscomb grows to 24 inches high and to 12 inches wide and has beautiful crested flowers in red, pink, orange, yellow and purple. Really a striking plant if you want to make a showy statement.

Other warm season annuals grown around here include Bachelor Button or gomphrena, coleus, cosmos, geranium, marigold, petunia, portulaca, purslane, salvia, sunflower, and zinnias. Sunflowers and zinnias are easily grown from seed. The Park West pollinator garden always has young sunflowers coming up from last year’s seeds. We replant tall zinnia every year at the south end of the garden where they grow remarkably well and bloom until fall.

Before purchasing your annuals research their growing needs. Many require a little shade to do their best. I know that my geraniums always look much better on the south side of my house rather than the west side. That summer sun is just too hot. And don’t forget how important water is to your new plants (as well as our old ones and our lawns)! I am already filling my birdbaths daily, not only for our feathered friends, but for the pack of dogs that roam my neighborhood (two boxer types, and a brown and white setter type).

When purchasing your annuals, don’t forget heat-tolerant butterfly attracting perennials, such as lantana and salvia. For ideas, check out the Park West Pollinator Garden.

April 2022 – 

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q: The weeds are getting ahead of me already. What is the weed that sticks to me when I go out into the yard?

A: That weed has more names than you can imagine. Gallium aparine is also known as Sticky weed, Stickywilly, Catchweed, Bedstraw, Cleavers, Velcro plant, and Goose grass. It is an annual that blooms in April. This weak-stemmed plant, according to Wildflower.org, has backward-hooked bristles on the stems and leaves. It grows throughout North America except for the Northwest Territories and Newfoundland. I did not see it listed in Hawaii. The plant has high water usage and likes shade (and is particularly fond of growing under my fruit trees). It is easy to weed. I just rake it out. Be sure to do this before it goes to seed so that you will have fewer plants next year.

Q: A friend of mine just planted ligustrum plants as a hedge alongside her yard. I tried to tell her ligustrum is invasive. What should she have planted?

A: The Native Plant Society suggests several plants that can replace ligustrum in the landscape, including Barbados cherry, Cenizo, Cherry Laurel, Possumhaw, and Yaupon Holly. My Barbados cherry really froze this winter, and Possumhaw is deciduous. My very favorite plant for hedges, however, is one made with Cherry Laurel plants. To see an outstanding example, go by the Seguin Public library and look on the west side of the front parking lot. All the Cherry Laurels are in bloom right now and are really pretty.

Prunus caroliniana is a member of the rose family. According to Wildflower.org, this evergreen’s greatest use is for providing a nearly carefree, dark green visual screen. It is a medium water user, likes sun and part shade, is cold tolerant, and grows in moist, deep, loamy, well-drained soils, clay loam, medium loam, sandy loam, and sandy soils. Cherry Laurel attracts birds and native bees, is a nectar source and has high deer resistance. Now the bad side: The seeds, twigs, and leaves of all Prunus species contain hydrocyanic acid and should never be eaten. The leaves of Cherry Laurel are particularly high in this toxin according to Wildflower.org. (Note: peaches and plums are also Prunus species so their seeds, twigs, and leaves should also not be eaten.)

Propagation by semi-hardwood and softwood cuttings is easiest in the summer. Germination of most seeds requires cold stratification. Wildflower adds a note of maintenance: the plants do not like being severely pruned (such as into an angled hedge). However this small tree stays usually around 15 to 20 feet, but could reach 36 feet.

FYI: In this dry weather, keep your birdbaths filled. Also, remember to water newly planted trees, shrubs, and vegetables. For trees and shrubs, watering the first year is important. Check for insects on your vegetables. As one of our instructors once told us, the best insect deterrent is your shadow!

March 2022 –

Q: How do I know when spring is really here?

A: I was always told that it was when the mesquite trees leafed out. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, has a list of spring bloomers that includes many of my favorites. The Texas mountain laurel (Sophora secundiflora) is a wonderful Texas native that has a lot going for it. It is evergreen, large (although slow growing), and grows well around here. My neighbors on both sides of me have these large shrubs but neither has buds. In the spring, the odor as I walk out my front door is marvelous.

The ornamental pear is another early bloomer, as well as many of our fruit trees. I have a Bradford pear at the back of my property, and two fruit pears down one side.

The redbuds are very showy in the spring. I have an Eastern redbud (Cercis Canadensis) that Welsh says is adapted to east Texas. It grows along my ephemeral creek bed and is at least 20 feet tall. My Mexican redbud (Cercis Canadensis var. mexicana) is much smaller and has beautiful glossy leaves. The Texas redbud according to Welsh is more treelike. Both the Mexican and the Texas redbud grow really well here and are beautiful in the spring.

You might be interested in two other small trees, the Mexican buckeye (Ungnadia speciosa) and the Mexican plum (Prunus Mexicana). I have both and am pleased with their ease of care and their spring flowers. Last year was the first year for my plum to bloom. I use it as a freestanding accent tree near my front walkway. Several of the wild Mexican plums and redbuds in our community are no more because of our rapid growth. There was a plum near the corner of 46 and 725; there was also a redbud on 123 bypass close to King Street. Both bloomed every year in spite of no care. I really recommend these small trees for every yard.

Q: When do I apply lawn fertilizer?

A: This is a question I get every year. You should fertilize when the lawn is actively growing (and I am not considering those winter weeds and grasses as a lawn). This means you can apply fertilizer after you have mowed the lawn grass twice. As usual, I recommend that you go by our local Texas AgriLife Extension office here in Seguin (210 E. Live Oak Street) and pick up a soil test bag, because there is no sense fertilizing if your lawn doesn’t need it. The test will tell you exactly what element is missing (or is overabundant) in your lawn.

Q: Can I plant tomatoes now?

A: You can buy them now and do what I did. Pot them up in a one gallon pot and keep an eye out for freeze forecasts so that you can protect them. This way the plants are already a good size by the time you put them in the ground. I already have a bloom or two.

FYI: Be sure to put out water for our wildlife. And remember to put in butterfly and bird attractive plants.

February 2022 –

Clara Mae Marcotte is a Texas Master Gardener with Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.  If you have a question to be answered, call the Master Gardeners at 830-379-1972 or leave a message to be answered.  The website is guadalupecountymastergardeners.org.  The Master Gardener research library is open Wednesdays from 1 to 4, at 210 East Live Oak Street in Seguin.

Q:  All of my neighbors are cutting back their plants. Isn’t it awfully early to do that?

A: Both Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac and Calvin Finch in his newspaper garden columns remind us not to prune till late February or March because the freeze damaged plant material provides some insulation for healthy plant tissue. Another good reason for holding off on pruning is because the frozen tops provide cover and foraging opportunities for ground feeding birds. If you feel that you must be doing something, then you could catch up on your weeding, and you could mulch everything. There is still a possibility that we will get more freezing weather. My last freeze here in Seguin in 2021 was February 22.

That being said, remember that some plants can be pruned. Peaches and plums can be pruned in February. And all of us remember that February 14 is the day we all run out and prune our rose bushes (although I have missed that date by a week or two the older I get).

Q: Why should I mulch? I hate to spend the money.

A: One of the main reasons we mulch is for water conservation. Mulching traps the water in the soil and slows the evaporation. If you are on a slope or in a windy area, mulching protects your soil. Mulch will keep your soil warmer in winter as well as cooler in the summer. As far as I am concerned, one of the best reasons for mulching is that it keeps weed growth down. Mulches can be many materials: wood bark, compost, recycled paper, pine straw, chipped granite, lava rock, limestone, woven plastic, and river rock. My favorite is cedar mulch, particularly by the front door, because it reminds me of Christmas every time I walk by and smell that lovely odor.

The advantage of an organic mulch, according to Doug Welsh, is that it decomposes and adds organic matter to the soil. (That is also a disadvantage because then you have to replace it periodically.) Another advantage of organic mulch over a rock mulch is that organic mulches reflect less sunlight, thus reducing heat loads on plants and buildings. Welsh cites research done at Washington State University showing as far as aesthetic ratings go, a newly mulched bed with no plants has nearly the same rating as a bed filled with plants. (Weedy beds, however, were not acceptable.)

So, how do we know how much mulch to buy? In Central Texas where we want mulch to be two inches deep, multiply the area by the desired depth of mulch in feet; then divide by the number of cubic feet in the bag. So for 1000 square feet at a two inch (or 2/12 foot) depth we would multiply 1000 times 2/12 and get 167 cubic feet. Then if the bag holds 2 cubic feet, we divide 167 by 2 cubic feet and get 83.5 or 84 bags of mulch. (If you are buying mulch by the yard, there are 27 cubic feet in a yard).

2021 Ask a Master Gardener Articles

December 2021 – 

Q: I am seeing ripe persimmons in my neighbor’s back yard. What can you tell me about growing the tree in the Seguin area?

A: I actually have a native persimmon growing in my backyard. It is Diospyros texana and has a beautiful trunk when the bark peels off. Another native persimmon, Diospyros virginiana, grows in eastern Texas. According to travis-tx.tamu.edu, this persimmon is used as a rootstock for growing the larger Asian varieties of persimmon. The reason that the native variety is used as rootstock is because the Oriental persimmon is highly susceptible to root rot.

Persimmons can be grown here (USDA Zones 7 through 10) because they have a low chilling requirement of only 100 hours. They can stand temperatures of 0 degrees F. when the plant is dormant, although 26 degrees will kill the leaves.

Eureka is a small self-fruitful tree and according to Texas A&M is heavy producing with high fruit quality. Hachiya is another productive variety. One source says it is semi self-pollinating, while another source lists it as self-pollinating. Tanenashi and Tamopan are both moderately productive in this area and are both self-pollinating.

The persimmon is a good tree to add to your landscape because it is easy to grow with no serious insect or disease problems and is somewhat drought tolerant. The fruit has vitamin A and C.

Q: If I want a low-maintenance landscape, what should I do?

A: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that you should simplify by keeping the design simple. Don’t buy one of everything. Reduce your lawn area, and instead, add areas of groundcover or bark chips. If you have an area that is heavily traveled, pave it with pavers, gravel, rock or wood chips. (Depending on your age, make sure the pavers are a walkable space apart.) Have your trees inside the landscape plantings to make mowing around them easier. Put in an irrigation system that has spray heads for the lawn and drip irrigation in the beds. Remember to still be water conscious. I keep my irrigation system turned off and use it manually when watering is needed. When planting, keep to native plants and trees, or plants that have been proven to thrive in our area. I like to keep a large pot out in front that I change out with seasonal plants (periwinkle in the spring and summer, and snapdragons or stock in the fall). I have also gone to bark mulch under my trees instead of plants. This way weeding can be done with a string trimmer instead of by hand.

FYI: Keep your bird baths filled. And remember to purchase some perennials that the butterflies like (perhaps plant them by your birdbath). Good Christmas presents include garden statuary, fancy pots, wind chimes, bird feeders, bird baths, or fountains. I have my eye on one of those beautiful glazed balls in my local nursery!

November 2021

Q: In the fall I always enjoy watching the change of the seasons. What plants and trees can I plant to give me that “fall” feeling?

A: Drive out to Park West and look at the pollinator garden by the splash pad. Right now the Fall Aster are in full bloom. Gulf Muhly is another fall bloomer with its many feathery pink plumes. Frost weed at the north end of the garden is also a fall bloomer, although you probably don’t want to plant it in a small yard. Goldenrod blooms also in the fall, but does tend to really spread.

Many Texas trees change color in the fall. My favorites are the Flameleaf sumac which can be found dotting the tree areas in Park West. There are also a few along Meadowlake Drive as well as behind Walmart. Other particularly showy fall trees are the Texas red oak, shining sumac, Texas sugar maple, dogwood, black gum and the Chinese pistache. As I write this, my cedar elm and red oaks are still green, but my Chinese pistache has already started turning. According to horticulturist Doug Welsh repeated cycles of cooler temperatures followed by days of warmer temperatures over several months seem to help with good fall color. This has been such a strange year and I just had almost seven inches of rain in my backyard, so I don’t know what is going to happen.

Q: When should I be rooting new shrubs and trees? I would like a few more and money is tight.

A: Dormant shrubs and trees are best rooted during fall and winter. Easy to root varieties include althea, bougainvillea, boxwood, Crape myrtle, fig, Firebush, lantana, Photinia, rosemary, and roses. Taking cuttings while the parent plant is dormant and letting them root during the winter months enables the cutting to have new growth in the spring and to be able to withstand the coming heat. Walsh reminds us that when you cut the woody stem, be sure to mark which end is up, because cuttings will not root upside down (and it is really easy to lay one down and forget which is the correct end). When I make cuttings, I try to be really careful.

Basil roots easily and this is good to remember this time of year. Before the first freeze (my first freeze last year was December 1), cut some basil and put it in a jar of water on your window sill. It will root and you will have basil for seasoning all winter long. In the spring, you can plant it back in the garden. I’ve done this for a number of years.

Q: My St. Augustine has lots of yellow blades. What should I be doing?

A: An article by Jerry Parsons, a retired horticulturist, suggests that pale yellow blades are often caused by low iron levels, or by nitrogen deficiency. Low levels of iron in the plant occur because our soil around here is so alkaline that essential elements become unavailable for plant uptake. An application of iron should help. He mentions that yellowing grass can also be caused by lack of nitrogen fertilizer. Talk to the person at your local nursery for help on solving this problem. I don’t know if something should be done now, or whether to wait for spring.

October 2021

Q: When can I plant my cool season annuals? I am really tired of periwinkles.

A: They are in the nursery now. In fact, I bought a six pack of snapdragons this morning. Other annuals for fall include alyssum, calendula, dianthus, Johnny-jump-ups, pansies, stock, sweet pea and petunias. All of my friends have big pots of chrysanthemums on their front porch. Don’t forget the kale and cabbage family when planning your fall flower beds. Those big green rosettes look just awesome tucked between flowers.

Q: What are those bunches of grass in the Park West pollinator garden with the pink fuzzy seed heads? When the sun is just right, they seem to just glow.

A: You are admiring the Gulf or coastal muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris), a Texas native plant. This grass grows from one and a half to two feet tall and blooms in October. Other names for this perennial grass are Hairy-awn Muhly, Hair Grass, and Pink Muhly. According to Wildflower.org, its native range is from Maine to Florida and east Texas, and south through Mexico to Guatemala. Gulf muhly’s water use is low to medium, the plant likes full sun, and its soil tolerance is for sandy soils, sandy loam, clayey soils, and rocky soils. Wildflower suggests collecting seed in November when the seed heads start to lose the pink color. The site also says to use a comb so as to not damage the looks of the plant. So if you see one of us in the Pollinator Garden combing the Gulf muhly you will know what is going on!

Q: Every year you fuss at us for throwing our leaves in the trash. What should we be doing?

A: Doug Welsh, an extension horticulturist, gives four suggestions in his Texas Garden Almanac. His first option is simply to mow your lawn with a mulching mower. This is what I do and my neighbors do. We have pecans, live oaks, ash, Monterrey oaks, and red oaks in large yards so our leaf drop isn’t too bad. The second option is to mow with a bagging attachment and use the captured shredded leaves as mulch in your vegetable gardens, flower beds, under hedges, and around trees. His third option is to use the leaves between rows in your vegetable garden as an all-weather walkway (which the following year can be the planting row with a new furrow of leaves). His final option is to till the leaves into the soil for new beds and leave them to decompose until spring. If you still need somewhere to put your leaves, take them to the community garden. (Be a good neighbor. No trash, just leaves.)

Q: When do I fertilize for fall?

A: The general rule-of-thumb is to fertilize when you haven’t needed to mow for two weeks. For us, this is somewhere between October 15 and October 30. Welsh suggests using a fertilizer high in nitrogen and potassium in a 1-0-1 ratio. The amount of fertilizer should be one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.

FYI: Cutting back my obedient plants worked. I have all new blooms.

September 2021

Q: My obedient plant still has blooms on the lower parts of the bloom spikes. How do I make it keep blooming?

A: Sometimes we learn together. My plants are at the same stage. I have cut the main stem back to a leaf node that has sprouts on each side. Hopefully this will give the plant a hint to keep blooming. The literature says that obedient plants will bloom until November and can be used as cut flowers so this deadheading should do the trick. Physostegia intermedia is also called false dragonhead and lionheart. It is a Texas native plant and is easy to grow and maintain although can become quite aggressive. We have it out in the pollinator garden at Park West and it is already moving itself across the garden.

Q: I have some property where I would like to plant wildflowers. When should that be done?

A: We were asked this question today out at the pollinator garden. After giving the lady a list of butterfly plants, we also recommended Wildseed Farms out of Fredericksburg. Local sources for wildflower seeds include our local Seguin nurseries as well as Gretchen Bee Ranch. Late August and September are the best times to plant seed.

In order to get soil-to-seed contact, you may need to lightly till your soil. Doug Welsh recommends mixing the wildflower seed mix with sand at one part seed to four parts sand. Then use a hand-held spreader to spread the mixture over the area. Tamp down the seeds with your feet or a roller. Water lightly to settle the seed and the soil. If September is dry, then water lightly every week.

Q: Is there something I should be doing in my garden this month?

A: Besides weeding which is always with us, it is time to fertilize your rosebushes. Welsh suggests one-fourth cup urea per plant, or one-half cup ammonium sulfate, or one cup of blood meal. Prune the old blooms to encourage more flowers. You should probably be harvesting your Kiefer pears (my Warrens are finished and the Kiefers just ready) and you may have figs. There may still be time for some warm season vegetables to ripen. (Remember that every year our first freeze seems to come later and later. In 2017, it was October 29, in 2018 it was November 14, in 2019 it was November 30, and in 2020 it was December 1.)

You could start planting your cool-season vegetables although it still might be too hot. This year try planting ornamental kale and cabbage in your flower beds. I put some in the planters at the library last year and they were really attractive. Please keep your birdbaths clean and filled. All the local wildlife is really thirsty with this dry spell. By the way, I saw two pyrrhuloxia at my little pond this past week.

August 2021

Q: How do I know what kind of tree to plant for shade? I want a fast-growing nicely shaped tree.

A: Many times “fast-growing” means short-lived. I faced that problem at my last house with sickly dying Arizona Ash all needing to be taken out.  At this house, I planted 5-gallon pots of Monterrey oak and live oak, watered faithfully, and within 5 to 10 years had shade trees.

In our area, you need to be careful to plant oak-wilt-resistant trees. Oak wilt is a fungal disease that kills live oaks and Texas red oaks. Among oak trees, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, white oaks are least susceptible. White oaks include bur, chinquapin, Monterrey, and post oaks. Other trees that are oak wilt resistant include Carolina buckthorn, cedar elm, crape myrtle, desert willow, Eve’s necklace, Fan Tex ash, huisache, lacey oak, mesquite, Mexican buckeye, Mexican plum, pecan, red buckeye, Texas, and Mexican redbud, Texas ash, Texas buckeye, Texas mountain laurel, Texas persimmon, and Texas walnut.

Welsh has chosen “select” trees that add value to the landscape, are available in the nursery trade, are easy to grow, and don’t have a lot of pest problems. Along with most of the above, his trees for our region 3 include Aristocrat pear, cherry laurel, Eldarica pine, ratama, bald cypress, honey locust, Italian stone pine, live oak, Montezuma cypress, Shumard oak, and tulip poplar. The trees I have in my yard beside the oaks are crape myrtle, cedar elm, Mexican plum, Texas buckeye, Texas redbud, and a lot of dying hackberries. My favorites are the cedar elm and the Mexican plum.

Remember that the first year of the tree is an important one. Start with a tree that is no larger than 15 gallons, with a height of about 8 to 10 feet, and a trunk diameter of one to one and a half inches. Welsh has a formula for watering. He says that for the first week, water one gallon of water a day. The second week double the water and apply it every other day. For the third week, water with that same amount every three days. From then on, water weekly when soil moisture is dry at three inches deep.

Since the best time of year to plant trees is fall, winter or early spring, you should be making your choice now. Go by the nursery and look at trees. Talk to your neighbors if they have trees you admire.

FYI: Tomato plants are in the nursery now if you are looking for new plants. I cut my spring plants back since they still look pretty good. Harvest your pears and apples from late August on, although my Warren pears are starting to ripen now. Cut back your roses 25 percent to generate new growth and blooms.

July 2021

Q: A friend told me that it is time to plant my fall garden. Surely that can’t be right. It is so hot and so early.

A: Your friend is correct. Some of our plants require three months from seed to beginning of harvest. This includes cantaloupe, corn, eggplant, okra, peppers, potatoes, pumpkins, tomatoes and watermelon. Note that I said beginning of harvest. Now add another thirty days to the end of the harvest. Our first freeze varies from year to year. Last year my first freeze was December 1, but in 2019 the first freeze was November 30. In 2018 it was November 14 and in 2017 it was October 29. Quite a difference between years. In order to figure out when to plant, take the first freeze and come forward 120 days (4 months). If it was Nov. 14, you’d plant July 14. Now you just have to decide which freeze date you want to use.

Once you’ve planted, be sure to provide enough water. If you are using transplants, Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says it will take about two weeks to get a strong root system. If you don’t water a little every day, the plants will be stressed. Provide heat relief with a shade board or shade cloth placed on the west side of your plants.

Q: I notice that various planters around Seguin have quite a mixture of summer plants. What plants do best in containers for summer?

A: My favorite plants for the summer are various colors of vinca (and, of course, my winter favorites were the snapdragons). This year the Seguin Art League has added Gregg’s Mist Flower (Conoclinium greggii) to the containers in front of their building along with a small coreopsis variety. Yellow lantana is also doing well. Several planters downtown have zinnias which always do well in the summer. The Texas Garden Almanac suggests autumn sage and purslane as well, although the sage may need to be trimmed now and then. Don’t forget how important it is to water. Depending on the size of the container, you may need to water every day. The containers in front of the library are large enough that they only have to be watered every other day.

Q: I am preparing for the fall Monarch migration. I have butterfly milkweed (Asclepius tuberosa) and mistflower. What else should I have planted?

A: Add some fall aster to your garden as well as purple coneflower and several types of salvias (autumn sage, indigo spires, and Henry Duelberg salvia). Plant dill, fennel, and parsley in your herb garden. I have a half acre so am also able to have some fall bloomers such as goldenrod and Frostweed, although both really tend to spread.

June 2021

Q: I have fire ants in my vegetable garden. What can I use that is safe?

A: According to Molly Keck in a 2020 webinar, Spinosad is safe to use in a vegetable garden. Keck is a Texas A&M entomologist and an Integrated Pest Management Program Specialist.

Q: Having just moved to this area, I am wondering what to plant that will be colorful and will stand the summer heat. Can you give me a list?

A: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists quite a few time-tested plants that tolerate heat. Some of them do better for me than others. As far as I’m concerned, you can’t go wrong with periwinkle. And I don’t mean the trailing vinca groundcover. Once known as Vinca rosea, Catharanthus roseus, or Madagascar or rosy periwinkle, is what you find in the nursery. The planters in front of the library were really pretty last summer with different shades of pink and white periwinkles. They bloomed until they were replaced with winter-blooming snapdragons.

Portulaca and purslane, two more tough colorful annuals, are in the nurseries now. I also noticed pots of zinnias. The taller varieties are favorites of mine because they can be used as cut flowers. We had a row of tall zinnias along the driveway at the Park West pollinator garden this past summer and they practically took care of themselves.

For perennials, there are many great choices. Firebush (Hamelia patens) is already blooming as is Gold Star Esperanza (Tecoma stans). Trailing and upright lantanas are pretty and are in the nurseries now. All types and colors of salvias and sages are available also.

Q: How do I keep birds away from my ripe tomatoes?

A: The only cure that I have had any luck with is to pick the tomato as soon as the bottom (blossom end) turns from green to white with a tinge of red. Doug Welsh says that at that point it is fully mature and will ripen indoors. I have never had any luck with fake snakes or fiberglass owls and had a bad instance when a mockingbird got caught in bird netting and a hawk flew down and killed it. After all this rain I have also had to keep a close eye out for snails.

Q: How often should I be watering my lawn?

A: As I write this at the end of May, my yard this month has received over 11.64 inches of rain. Hopefully, everyone has their irrigation system turned off. In order to conserve water in Texas, we should be irrigating plants only when they need it. There are many things you can do to be more water-wise, suggests Welsh. Increase your mowing heights during the summer to decrease lawn water use and increase drought tolerance. Decrease fertilizer rates. (I haven’t fertilized in some years, but use a mulching mower and leave clippings on the lawn. My lawn looks as good as my neighbors’ lawns.) Use mulch in your beds and around shrubs to reduce moisture evaporation. Remove weeds because they compete with your plants for water. And water between sundown and sunrise when the wind and temperatures are lower.

May 2021

Q: Why don’t my snapdragons grow well indoors? I have them under a grow light.

A: All my Internet sources emphasized the need for direct sunlight. Snapdragons (the dwarf variety) will do well if they have six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. Even with that, Homeguides.sfgate.com suggests that it is best to increase this by using a grow light also. Most people do not have a window that receives sun for that amount of time, so lack of sunlight is the answer to your question. To tell the truth, the only plants I am able to grow indoors are orchids, African violets, and spathiphylum. All of them live in windows on the east side of my house, and the orchids are also under grow lights.

Q: I have already been bitten by an Asian lady beetle. Are they a good bug or a bad bug?

A: They are basically beneficial insects to farmers and gardeners because they feed on aphids that can damage plants. The University of Minnesota Extension says that the Asian lady beetle or Harmonia axyridis is also known as the Halloween lady beetle and the Japanese lady beetle. The color of the beetle ranges from orange to yellow to red and to black. Usually the beetle has 19 spots with a black M-shaped marking behind its head.

The beetle can become a pest when it tries to get inside, but it does not infest wood, destroy fabrics, eat food or damage property. They also cannot sting and do not carry disease according to UMN. What they do, however, is bite which can be uncomfortable. They also secrete a smelly yellowish liquid from the joints of their legs, and, when they run out of aphids, will eat fall-ripening fruit such as grapes, apples and fall raspberries. Extension.umn.edu suggests picking up damaged apples and removing damaged fruit from the tree.

Q: How can I keep tomato hornworms and other bugs off of my tomatoes organically?

A: You can do this by playing an active role in your garden. I walk out every morning and check my tomato plants. I remove the bugs by hand, then smoosh them with a brick or throw them in a bucket of soapy water. One of our old time area gardeners always said that the best bug deterrent in your garden was your shadow. (In other words, you should be out there every day checking before an infestation can take over).

Besides hand-picking insects, Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests using a high-pressure water spray.  Also, once your fruit sets, cover your plants with netting. Another way to control insects is by using trap crops, but I haven’t had much luck with them. I planted marigolds one year but did not notice any fewer bugs. I have sprayed with insecticidal soap. Be sure to check the label of your organic product to make sure that it is safe to spray on vegetables.

FYI: Keep those birdbaths full. With our intermittent rainfall, birds, bees, and butterflies need all the help they can get.

April 2021

 Q: I have fire ants. What can I do since I really do not like using chemicals?

A: Texas A&M has developed a two-step method to manage red imported fire ants. First of all, notice that I used the word “manage” and not “get rid of”. We really will never eradicate fire ants in Texas although scientists are working on developing and finding predators and parasites that will attack the red imported fire ant, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. 

The two-step method combines the use of baits as well as mound treatments. First, fire ant baits are broadcast evenly over the treatment area. Spinosad is an organic insecticide that is used as bait. Welsh says it is an aerobic fermentation product of the soil bacterium Saccharopolyspora spinosa. Use spinosad when the soil-surface temperature is between 70 and 90 degrees F. Step two consists of individually treating fire ant mounds. There are several organic products you can use on mounds including citrus oil, pine oil, pyrethrins, rotenone, and spinosad. You could also use boiling water although that will probably cook your plants. In vegetable and herb gardens, instead of pouring the product beside the plant, shovel the mounds onto your driveway, then kill with insecticide.

Q: I have sticky weed all over my backyard. Where did it come from and what can I do?

A: Galium aparine, also called Sticky willy, Catchweed, Bedstraw, Cleavers, Goosegrass, and Velcro plant is in the Madder family. Wildflower.org says the common name of sticky willy is appropriate since the backward bristles on the stems and leaves and fruits cause the plant to cleave to our clothes and the fur of animals. Supposedly the plant is eaten by geese (therefore the common name), and the foliage of another Galium species was used to stuff mattresses in medieval times (thus the name Bedstraw).

The plant is an annual vine, with green leaves and flowers and blooms in April. Wildflower says it requires water and likes shade. If you pull it now before the flowers set seed, you will have fewer plants next spring. My grandchildren showed up this past weekend and pulled quite a few for me, thank goodness. Now I just make sure to pull an armload every time I walk in the back yard. For those of you who like native plants, it is a native in all of the lower 48 states.

Evidently, some people use the herb in medicinal ways: to boost the immune system, to cleanse the lymph system, to cool fevers, and to act as a blood purifier. An article in the Austin American Statesman by Renee Studebaker even says some gardeners are using Galium to make spring tonics, coffee substitutes, and tea. Be that as it may, I still don’t like the plant!

FYI: Make sure you’ve planted plants for the butterflies to make up for the ones that the hard freeze killed. Our Guadalupe County nurseries have a good selection including skullcap, Salvia greggii, gaura, and calylophus. Keep your birdbaths filled with water as the days of spring warm-up. 

March 2021

Q: My satsuma citrus received really bad freeze damage. What should I do?

A: I also received freeze damage on my big satsuma in the backyard. Aggie-horticulture advises that we leave the tree alone for now. One A&M suggestion is to wait till July after the second flush of growth. Another suggests waiting until the fruit is set to see where on the tree it is located. Basically, the point is that there is no benefit to prune until spring growth starts and you find out how really bad the damage is. In fact, pruning too early can stimulate bud activity, and then we might get another freeze. Make sure you do prune the dead limbs and twigs back to live tissue before mid-summer so that the tree doesn’t develop Melanose and wood-rotting fungi. Freeze-damaged citrus needs good water and a moderately balanced fertilizer in order to regrow the foliage.

My Mexican lime which I had under a blanket on the back porch with an incandescent bulb never dropped a bloom, even though my electricity was out more than it was on and the bulb burned out the last night.

Q: I am ready for spring and would like to put in some new plants. What are the earliest bloomers?

A: The plants for our area around Seguin that bloom early include one of my favorites, the Texas mountain laurel. This Texas native is a very large shrub but an extremely slow grower. It is very good-looking, is evergreen, and has clusters of fragrant purple flowers. When I walk out my front door I can smell the neighbor’s shrub with its wonderful odor.

Another early bloomer is the redbud. I have both the Texas redbud and the Eastern redbud. My Texas redbud stays small and has pink blooms with lovely shiny leaves. My Eastern redbud is quite large with purple blooms. If you want a smaller tree that has a very nice branch arrangement and spread, I would suggest you get the Texas redbud.

Mexican plum is another Texas native. The blooms are white and come out early. Mine took several years of growth before it finely decided to bloom. Last year it was quite lovely. I have it as an accent tree in the front yard.

Another Texas native, the Mexican buckeye, has pink flowers. The seedpods in the summer are quite interesting and are in the shape of a three-lobed capsule. The seeds, however, are poisonous so you probably want to keep them away from children.

Q: My sago palm looks really bad. Are they able to withstand the freeze we had?

A: Floridata says that the sago is the hardiest of the cycads and can withstand temperatures as low as 15 degrees F. Our extended cold may not be the best for our sagos. Time will tell. Let me know if your sago makes it.

February 2021

Q: When I went into the nursery this week, I saw tomato plants for sale. Isn’t it way too early to plant them?

A: I record first and last freezes each year in my garden journal. In 2018, the last freeze was February 12; 2019, March 6; and 2020, February 28. We pretty much take our chances when we plant early. However, if you buy those tomatoes now, plant them in one-gallon pots of good potting soil, place them in good light, and bring them in when a freeze is forecasted. You will have a good start on tomatoes for spring. I notice that the tomatoes for sale in my local nursery are Patio tomatoes which make really nice pot plants. For your information, I record rain totals each month in my journal also. I received 28.06 inches at my house this past year.

Q: I know that it is too soon to plant summer annuals. What can I do around the garden in February?

A: I was always taught that Valentine’s Day is when we prune rose bushes, and it is a good rule of thumb to follow. We need to prune for several reasons according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac: to train the plant, to maintain good health, to improve the quality of flowers, fruit, foliage, and stems, and to restrict growth. The first thing you need to do is prune out all the dead branches back to the point of origin. If two branches are rubbing or touching each other, prune out the weaker branch. Remove branches that grow from one side of the plant through the middle of the plant and out the other side. Remove any branches aimed toward the ground. Remove suckers and water sprouts.

There are several things to mention before you start pruning. Make sure your pruners are sharp. Don’t leave stubs; cut large branches flush to the branch collar. Live oaks and red oaks should have pruning paint applied. Other plants don’t need it. Remember that spring-flowering shrubs, trees, and vines bloom on last year’s growth and are pruned after they bloom. Summer blooming shrubs should be pruned now. Welsh considers when to prune shrubs with ornamental berries a tricky problem. Personally, I just sort of aim the hedge trimmers at the top of my Buford holly to keep it off the roof and don’t worry about it otherwise.

Q: Is it time to fertilize my lawn yet?

A: No. The rule of thumb is that you don’t fertilize your lawn until you have mowed your lawn twice. (This shows that your lawn is actively growing).

Keep your birdbaths full. Many herbs can be planted now. I have several dill plants in my garden along with oregano, thyme, and parsley.

January 2021

Q1: As part of my New Year’s Resolutions, I’ve decided to add something new to my garden this year. Any suggestions?

A1: There are many choices: you could add a perennial flower bed or a milkweed pollinator garden. How about something concrete such as a garden bench or statue? I added a new birdbath because you can never have too many. Several years ago my son and daughter-in-law presented me with a lovely wooden arbor. If you are really thinking about future generations, you could add a new tree. Shade trees save electricity costs for air conditioning. Flowering trees add beauty.

Q2: Many of my plants froze. Is there something I should be doing right now?

A2: If you can, fight the urge to prune. The dead portions of the plant protect what is underneath. Also, birds and other wildlife may be sheltering in the debris. Resist pruning until late February. Peaches, plums and other fruit trees can be pruned in February. For rose bushes, your target date is February 14.

Remember that water gives off heat. Keep your garden and potted plants moist, especially your citrus trees. My satsuma is fairly cold hardy, but lemons and limes are not. Keep an eye on your birdbaths. The other morning I watched a poor squirrel try to drink from a frozen birdbath.

You should have pulled your frozen tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants by now. I notice that onion transplants are still available in the nursery. Plant now and you will have onion bulbs by June. Plant the transplants three-fourths inches deep and three inches apart from mid-January to early February, according to Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. You will know when your onions are ready because the main stem begins to weaken and fall. A&M suggests leaving the onions lying in the garden for one to two days to dry. Then remove the tops and roots and let them keep drying in baskets or boxes. My neighbor spreads his on his back porch on wire netting. I braid my onion tops and hang them in the garage. As of this writing, I still have some of this season’s crop left.

Q3: I would like to have fruit trees in my yard, but I watch my neighbor out spraying his pecan trees and don’t think I’d like all that extra effort. Are there any “easy” fruit trees?

A3: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists fruit crops from the least to the most difficult: blackberries, figs, citrus, pears, pecans, grapes, persimmons, apples, plums, and peaches. Since I am not fond of blackberry thorns, figs, to me, are the most rewarding. I planted a Celeste sugar fig some years ago, and every year without fail I have a crop of figs. This year there were so many that all the neighbors came and picked, and their kids came, and my son and grandkids came, and I still have some in the freezer. The time between planting and bearing fruit is one to two years for blackberries, figs, and citrus. Pears and pecans take four to six years; other fruit trees, two to six years depending on the variety.

December 2020:

Q1: Can I still plant my annuals?

A1: Cool-season annuals are still available in the local nurseries. In fact, I have been holding off planting my own since our weather has been so warm. You also should plant your spring-flowering bulbs this month, but don’t plant too deep. Make sure your flower beds have enough moisture. Check the soil moisture with your finger according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. Cool to the touch means adequate moisture, while warm and dry means water is needed.

Q2: When do I bring in the potted plants which have been living outside?

A2: If you are like me, you wait until the weather person forecasts a freeze. Bring the plants onto the porch or in a place where you can easily protect them from freezing. I usually bring my orchid plants in the house and put them under grow lights. If you have plumeria, place them in the garage or a place where they won’t freeze. The Houston Chronicle suggests removing the remaining plumeria leaves by cutting them an inch from the trunk. You can leave the plants in their pots or take them out, remove the excess dirt, trim the root ball to a desirable size, and place a plastic bag around the root ball. If you have your plumeria growing in the ground, dig them up and store them. The Chronicle also suggests that this dormancy period is a good time to make cuttings. If your plants are young or small, a cup of water a month will keep them from drying out too much during dormancy.

Q3: Someone always gives me a holiday plant. How do I care for it?

A3: First of all, make sure your plant has enough light. If you have natural light, this means at least six hours. If you only have fluorescent, then twice as much. The temperature should be around 68 to 72 degrees F. Do not place the plant under an airflow or next to a heater or fireplace. Water when the soil feels dry to a depth of one to two inches. However, do not overwater or keep the soil saturated. Most holiday plants come with decorative wrapping or containers which can hold water. Make sure you remove those when you water and let the plant drain. Fertilize only once during the holidays. Check to make sure that there are no insects on the plants.

Living Christmas trees also need to be in bright natural light. Welsh suggests monitoring the soil moisture daily and getting the tree back outdoors within two to three weeks. The tree should be planted soon after so that it will have new roots before the heat of the next summer.

FYI: Bird baths should be refilled daily throughout the winter to provide for our birds and squirrels, as well as all those visiting raccoons, possums, armadillos and foxes.

November 2020:

Q1: My pumpkins are green. Will they turn all orange before they freeze?

A1: Pumpkins mature at different times depending on the variety. When mature the stems become dry and brittle and the small vines around the base of the pumpkin stem turn brown. The fully mature pumpkin has a hard rind that you can’t pierce with your fingernail. Homeguides.sfgate.com says to leave four inches of the stem on when you cut off the pumpkin. Remember that freezes cause the pumpkin rinds to soften which leads to rot. Rain, if we get any, could also lead to rot, mold, and mildew. Several Internet sites suggest that, if we have a frost and you are afraid of a freeze, you can pick the pumpkin, put it inside by a window near the light, and then keep turning it till it is all orange.

My small Sugar Pie pumpkins were listed at 100 days till maturity. Since I planted in July, I should be fine for maturity before our first freeze (I hope). When I write this (end of October), my pumpkins are still green.

Q2: When should I cut my basil? I am afraid it might freeze.

A2: Cut it before the first freeze. Don’t wait until the last minute and then end up with no basil. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says to harvest by picking individual leaves or cut the whole plant back to six inches high. Leaves can be used fresh, dried, or frozen. I usually cut a stem and place it in water on my window sill. It will root and you will have leaves throughout the winter.

Q3: I have a couple of shrubs that need to be trimmed back after their fall-blooming (such as my Shrubby Boneset). Can I root the cuttings? How do I do that?

A3: Fall and winter are the best times to root the dormant, woody stems from shrubs and trees according to Welsh. By rooting this time of year, the plant will have enough root structure to support spring growth.

First, fill containers with potting soil. Make sure the pot has good drainage.  Dormant cuttings can also be placed directly in the garden (although I have found it easier to root in pots, than transplant). When you take your cuttings, use a sharp knife or razor blade which has been sterilized with alcohol. The best size cuttings are pencil length and pencil diameter. (Remember which end is up.) The end of the cutting that will be put in the soil should be cut at a 45-degree angle to give more room for roots to form. Dip this end in rooting hormone. Use your finger or a pencil to make a hole in the soil, slip the cutting into the hole, and then firm the soil around the cutting. Water lightly; after that, keep the soil moist but not wet. Rule of thumb: take twice as many cuttings as you want since not all will root. (In fact, my ratio is usually one in four.)

October 2020:

September 2020:

Q1:  I have been given an Obedient plant by a neighbor. How do I care for it and where should it be planted?

A1: The fall obedient plant, Physostegia virginiana, is also called false dragonhead and Virginia lions-heart. It is a member of the mint family and grows from Canada to Mexico. This perennial has four foot stems with leaves and a terminal spike of lovely white, pink, or purple flowers. It blooms August through November. Wildflower.org says the plant is snapdragon-like but with a square mint family stem. The plant received its name because if you bend the flowers, they tend to stay in that position for a while. The native habitat for the plant is river banks, wet thickets and low ground. It can live in sand, clay and limestone, and tolerates both drought and poor drainage.

My neighbor grows his under an oak tree, while our plants in the Park West pollinator garden are in full sun. Wildflower lists the light requirement as shade, part shade and sun. Obedient plant does like moist soil. It will spread by stolons, but the roots are easy to pull out. Hummingbirds and butterflies are attracted to the plant as a nectar source. It has high deer resistance.

Q2: When do I plant my wildflowers for spring bloom?

A2: Now is a good time (late August and September). The seeding rate recommended by Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac is one-fourth pound per 500 square feet. Welsh suggests buying a wildflower mixture for this area which includes black-eyed Susan, bluebonnet, Drummond phlox, gaillardia, gayfeather, paintbrush, horse mint, mealy cup sage, Mexican hat, evening primrose, plains coreopsis, standing cypress and wine cup.

Anyone who’s been out to the Park West pollinator garden has seen our crazy out-of-season bluebonnets which normally bloom in the spring. We think it was the spring rain that confused them. Texas has the bluebonnet as its state flower. However, according to Welsh, Texas has six native bluebonnets so all six are considered the state flower. Lupinus subcarnosus was the original but it has small blooms and likes sandy soil. L.texensis is the easiest to grow from seed and can be bought as transplants at a nursery. L. havardii, the Big Bend bluebonnet, has two to three foot bloom spikes. L. concinnus is a small bluebonnet that is native to West Texas. L. perennis is a perennial blue bonnet which grows from Florida to East Texas in sandy soils. This one is probably the one I grew up with in Florida. The last species is L. plattensis, another perennial. It has two-foot bloom spikes and grows from Nebraska to Texas in sandy soil.

Q3: When do I plant my cool season annuals? I am really looking forward to snapdragons and pansies.

A3: Doug Welsh says to wait until our night temperatures dip into the 50s. While it was 67 the other morning, it was still 100 during the day, so way too soon. I am hoping temperatures at night fall below 70 to let my tomatoes produce a few more of those good black cherry tomatoes.

August 2020:

Q1:  I think I have poison ivy growing under my oak tree. How do I know?

A1: There are 3 leaflets in each set of leaves which are arranged alternately on the stems. This time of year the leaves are green, but they will turn red to yellow in the fall. If you let the plant grow, it becomes a vine or a trailing shrub and will have white, yellow amber or green flowers.

Poison ivy or Toxicodendron radicans is also known as Eastern poison ivy, poison vine, Sumac grimpant, and many other names. Wildflower.org says the plant is a perennial which grows as a shrub or vine, is deciduous, has small amber fruit, and has autumn foliage (which is absolutely beautiful). The plant blooms from April through June. It grows in shade and part shade and attracts butterflies. It has high deer resistance although that is certainly no reason to plant it. All parts of the plant are poison because of Urushiol in the sap. Webmd.com says that homeopathic preparations of poison ivy are used to treat pain, rheumatoid arthritis, swelling, and itchy skin disorders although I was unable to find another source that said how this was possible or whether it was proven or even worked.

A problem with poison ivy is that it has lookalikes. Among the lookalikes are wafer ash (Ptelea trifoliata), Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) with five leaflets, Box elder (acer negundo) where the three-leaflet sets are opposite instead of alternate, and Peppervine (Nekemias arborea). Wildflower.org suggests that “Leaves of three, let it be.” If you have a small plant in your flower bed, Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says to spot treat it with glyphosate or an herbicide. I have had good luck with this although sometimes it takes two treatments.

Welsh adds information from the Texas Workers’ Compensation Commission on how to treat exposure. Clean skin first with rubbing alcohol and then wash with cold water. Afterwards take a shower with soap and warm water. Wipe clothes, shoes, and tools with alcohol and water.

Q2: When do I give my roses their fall pruning?

A2: Doug Welsh suggests pruning lightly in mid-August so that you will have fall blooms. Modern hybrids and old-fashioned roses can be pruned back 25 percent. Be sure to remove black spot-infected leaves. Once the roses begin blooming, deadhead until the first freeze. Fertilize with nitrogen in mid-August. Then water thoroughly.

Q3: Can I still plant tomatoes? What else should be planted now?

A3: Everything depends on when our first freeze occurs. If we go by last year, it was November 30 so tomatoes will have time to set and ripen. Early August is the time to plant pumpkin seeds. Your pears can be harvested in late August or early September. My Warren pear has only two fruit about 30 feet in the air. My Kieffer pear is a smaller tree and the pears are much easier to reach.

July 2020:

Q1: You said last month to “water your lawn between sundown and sunrise.” Doesn’t that cause disease problems?

A1: You are correct. It could if the moisture sits on the grass all night. Most experts consider the very best time to be between 4 a.m. and at the very latest 10 a.m. You want to water while the wind is down and before the temperature goes up so that less water is lost to evaporation. When I use my irrigation system, I have it set at 4 a.m. That way it is finished by 7.

Aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu says that lawn watering should be to a depth of four to six inches. A half inch of water achieves this in sandy soils, while three fourths of an inch of water is required in loamy soils. To determine this, save up your cat food or tuna fish cans. Set out three or more cans in a straight line going out from the sprinkler. Run the sprinkler for a half hour, then measure the amount of water in each can. See how long it takes for the sprinkler to apply an inch of water. Don’t water again until the lawn has dried out.

Q2: A friend gave me a small plant called wooly stemodia. Does it grow well in the Seguin area?

A2: Stemodia lanata, also called gray-woolly twintip, is actually native to coastal and southern Texas and adjacent Mexico according to Wildflower.org. The fragrant foliage looks sort of silvery or grey and has tiny white or lavender flowers. Stemodia spreads by stolons and can be seen in Seguin growing in the raised bed along Court Street between N. River and N. Crockett. It will die back in cold winters, but otherwise stays evergreen.

Stemodia is perennial, semi-evergreen, and grows to one foot. It blooms from April to November. The plant uses low water, requires sun, and grows in sandy, acid, or calcareous soils of plains, brush lands, slopes, dunes and beaches and is saline tolerant. Sounds like it would do fine around here. It has high deer resistance. However, Wildflower does give a warning. This species accumulates selenium and is therefore poisonous to livestock if sufficiently concentrated (which means, of course, that we shouldn’t eat it either.) The plant can be propagated by seeds or softwood cuttings. Because stems root at the nodes, the friend who gave me my plant roots them by burying a node in the soil and letting it root before cutting it.

Q3: I read that we should start our fall vegetable garden now. Is that right?

A3: Plants that will freeze should be started now. This includes eggplant, peppers, squash and tomatoes. My first freeze in 2017 was Oct. 29; in 2018 it was November 14; in 2019 it was November 30. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that the number of days from transplant to beginning of harvest is around 90, and to completion of harvest is around 120. If you subtract 120 days from Nov. 14, it means planting around the third week of July. Therefore, you should be preparing now.

June 2020:

Q1: I have an orange tree and have leaf footed bugs on my fruit. What can I do?

A1: According to Molly Keck, A&M entomologist, in a recent Webinar on citrus pests, the only things you should use on citrus are spinosad, horticultural oil, insecticidal soap or Malathion (which is not organic). Leaf footed bugs ruin the inside of the fruit. Keck suggests several remedies which include controlling weeds, and removing any nearby plants that are bug hosts.

Citrus plants are host to the Giant Black Swallowtail butterfly whose larvae is the Orange Dog caterpillar. These caterpillars look like bird droppings. I also sometimes find them on my lime prickly ash bonsai. BT can be sprayed for the caterpillar although I have never found that they do much damage (and I really like the butterfly.)

If you have grasshoppers, Keck suggests tilling and controlling weeds. She also uses Malathion.

Q2: I heard that mowing heights should be increased in the summer. When should we do this?

A2: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says now is the time. If you want your lawn to stand up to the summer heat, raise your mower height. The recommended heights are two inches for Bermuda, four inches for St. Augustine, and six inches for buffalo grass. This decreases lawn water use and increases drought tolerance according to Welsh.

Remember to water your lawn and garden between sundown and sunrise. I’ve seen people watering in the heat of the day when more moisture is evaporating than hitting the soil. Wind and temperatures are lower at night.

Q3: Birds are pecking my tomatoes. What shall I do?

A3: Luckily you can pick your tomatoes early. Doug Welsh says that as soon as the bottom of the fruit turns from green to white with a tinge of red, it is fully mature. Then you bring it in the house where it continues maturing and turning red. (This also works when a freeze is coming. Just pick the tomatoes, or pull up the whole plant, and bring them inside.) Covering your plants with bird netting is something else you can try. However, sometimes awful things happen. I covered my blueberries with netting a few years ago. A mockingbird managed to get caught in the netting and a hawk attacked and ate him before I could get out there.

While we are on the subject of vegetables, in a recent webinar, Molly Keck said that if you have fire ants in your vegetable garden, the only thing you can use is spinosad.

FYI: To help conserve water as the summer heat rolls in, pull out all those water-drinking weeds around your flowers and shrubs.  Then, make sure you mulch. Welsh says that mulching is the highest-impact, lowest-tech water conserving practice. You can either use all the leaves you saved, or you can use bark chips.

May 2020:

Q1: I noticed that the lantana in one of the pots at the library has spider mite. What is being done about it?

A1:  Lantana is an ornamental perennial that is well suited to Guadalupe County. The plant is drought tolerant, cold hardy, blooms from March through October, and performs well in full sun. That said, there are several things that attack lantana according to Mott and Merchant of Texas A&M. Usually the problems are caused by pests that suck sap from the plant tissue, such as aphids, lacebugs, mealybugs, whiteflies, and spider mites. The spider mite is one of the most common pests attacking ornamentals. Lady beetles, lacewing nymphs, spiders and tiny parasitic wasps are beneficial insects that prey on spider mites. However, sometimes something else is required. First of all, Mott and Merchant suggest that you should make sure the soil is good and well drained and receives at least eight hours of sun a day. Check whether there is compost and also apply a two to four inch layer of mulch. Personally, I don’t like to use insecticides or miticides that are too powerful. The spray I use is insecticidal soap which takes care of most problems. Another product that will work is a year round horticultural oil (remembering that leaves can be burned by sun coming through the oil). No matter how safe you think the product is, read the label and follow directions. I wear gloves and a mask because I do not want to inhale the spray.

Q2: My wildflowers (bluebonnets, baby blue eyes, and larkspur) are almost finished blooming. When can I mow them down and what should I do after that?

A2: The Wildflower Center suggests that you wait to mow your wildflowers until at least half of the late-blooming species have dropped seeds. This probably doesn’t make Homeowners Associations happy as bluebonnets look kind of raggedy at the end. Luckily my bluebonnets have moved around to my back yard. Once you mow, you will want to continue mowing throughout the year to keep the grasses from dominating. Do not use fertilizer. Wildflowers are accustomed to growing in this climate and soil. Don’t use insecticides and fungicides since most native plants are generally more pest-resistant than non-natives. Don’t mulch areas where you want your wildflowers to re-seed.

The Wildflower Center also warns against planting winter rye as it will crowd out wildflowers. If you plant any allopathic plants nearby, they will also crowd out the wildflowers. (Allopathic plants release chemicals that slow the growth and development of nearby plants.) Allopathic plants include black walnuts, Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus), fragrant sumac, sorghum, rice and peas.

FYI: Change out your winter annuals with warm season annuals. Marigold, pentas, periwinkle, portulaca, purslane and salvia can be planted now. Don’t forget to plant butterfly weed and other milkweed for our butterflies, and put in birdbaths or bubblers for the birds.

April 2020:

Q1: I am spending a lot of time in my garden during these trying times. What is the most important job I should be doing?

A1: In my yard, at least, pulling weeds is the most important because we need to keep the weeds from going to seed. If they are in the lawn, you can mow. After that lovely rain we had, weeds are easily pulled in my heavily mulched flower bed. However, I had completely ignored my milkweed bed and am spending several days getting it into shape.

Another job is fertilizing your vegetable plants and keeping pests out of the vegetable garden. In early and mid-April, Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests sowing a second and third planting of beans. If your fruit trees have set, thin the branches that have too many. Many houseplants can now be moved on the porch for the summer. My plumaria which I moved outside from my garage are already starting to leaf out.

When your annuals, perennials, and roses have dead blossoms, remove them so the plant will continue blooming. If you had trees or shrubs that bloomed this spring, prune them if they need it. By now, all of your shrubs should have been pruned. Mine have (except for one rose that I keep forgetting about until I walk around the house and see it still unpruned).

Q2: What herbs can we plant now?

A2: Check your stored seed to see what you have available. Basil does really well here. I planted a pot by my front door and another pot by my tomatoes. Basil is one of the easiest to grow, and likes full sun. I found a couple of packets of chives in my seed box. This is another herb for full sun or partial shade. Plus it makes a very pretty plant. My dill did not come up this year. I put in more seeds yesterday, but it may be too late. Mexican mint marigold (Tagetes lucida) is a lovely little plant (24 inches tall, 18 inches wide) with yellow flowers and leaves that taste like licorice. Another nice plant is Mexican oregano (24 tall and 36 inches wide) with pink flowers. Other easy growing herbs are the different types of mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, sweet bay laurel and thyme.   Since everyone is doing more cooking right now, I will pass along some conversions: one tablespoon of fresh herbs equals one teaspoon of crumbled dry herbs, or one-fourth to one-half teaspoon of ground herbs.  Some herbs can be frozen: basil, chives, dill and mint. In the past, I have frozen fresh washed mint in ice cubes for my iced tea.

Q3: How do I get rid of grass burs and bur clover?

A3: You need to be very proactive in pulling up these plants. After starting years ago with a back yard full of grass burs, I now have none. But this means every day checking and pulling. I am not so good with the bur clover. In fact, it is bad this year. However, pulling the plant before too many seeds ripen makes a big difference eventually. On the plus side, bur clover is a nitrogen fixer and has been used as a forage crop in the Mediterranean.

March 2020:

Q1: A friend says she is going to divide her Gulf Muhly. Is this the right time of year?

A1: If you are going to divide your fall blooming perennials and your ornamental grasses, do it now.  Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says this allows time for them to reestablish themselves before blooming. Your ornamental grasses can have their dead foliage cut off now also, since new growth has already started growing from the base. Mine is sprouting as is all the grasses around Seguin High School.

Q2: How can I control bedstraw (some call it sticky weed)?

A2: Calvin Finch says to keep it mowed. This works, of course, if it’s in the lawn. If it’s in the flower beds, you need to rake or to pull it up. It really helps to pull it out now before it blooms and goes to seed. I have fewer this year than last year since I was very proactive in pulling out the plants.

Q3: I do not like to put out seeds for the birds because it makes such a mess and becomes expensive. Is there something I can do that is easier and cheaper, yet still provides for our feathered friends?

A3:  You can provide one very important item: water. Place shallow bird baths high enough off the ground to make it harder for cats. However, in my yard, other animals are also looking for water, such as raccoons, possums, armadillos, squirrels, foxes and probably other animals I don’t even know about. So place a few water containers on the ground.  Bird friendly plants can be put in your flower beds such as salvia, Turk’s Cap, flame acanthus, Esperanza, and others.

Q4: What is the plant growing down the median on 123 Bypass? Is it forsythia?

A4: The plant in the median is Primrose Jasmine, Jasminum mesnyi. Even though it is not a Texas native it is very easy to grow and is deer resistant. Forsythia blooms best in northern Texas and likes acidic soils.

Q5: When do I fertilize my lawn?

A5:  Welsh recommends that you fertilize in the spring after you have mowed the grass twice. This shows that the grass is actively growing. In the fall, fertilize after the grass has stopped growing.

Q6: I would love to have a vegetable garden but I have a small yard and the only sun I have is by my front door. Help!

A6: Pots! Not only are pots good for small places, they are also higher in the air which makes it easier to weed and harvest. Almost anything can be grown in a pot. One Patio tomato would be lovely in a pot by your front door. Green herbs can be grown in a slightly shadier spot. Last year I had a pot of basil by my front door that looked absolutely great (and tasted great too). I always keep a pot of parsley growing by my back door along with a pot of chile pequin.

February 2020:

Q1: At a garden club meeting the other night several members said that they kept a garden journal. Is this important? Why should we keep one?

A1: There are many things we can use for future reference if we keep a journal. In my journal, I list the amount of rainfall we receive each month as well as our first and last freeze of the year. This helps me plan supplemental water during vacation time and gives me an idea as to what not to plant (in other words, high water users). I list the date that each tree is planted. (For fruit trees this helps my anxiety level when trees don’t fruit when I think they should, then I look at my journal and find they have only been in two years.)

Remember that dates of the first and last freeze vary from year to year. In 2017, my last freeze for the 2016 season was March 3; my first freeze for the 2017 winter was October 29. But in 2018 it was February 12 and November 14. This past year, 2019, it was March 6 and November 30. A&M lists approximate dates, so it is best to have your own.

The first freeze of the year is important to know if you are planning a fall garden that includes tomatoes and peppers. Seed packets list the number of days to fruit. For instance, if you want to get one more crop of tomatoes, and the packet says 80 days, then you would plant your seeds at least 80 days before the first freeze for your area.

Knowing an average date for the last spring freeze in your area is important because many of our spring vegetables and flowers are frost-sensitive. This includes green beans, peppers, squash, tomatoes, marigolds, zinnias, bougainvillea, and other tropical plants. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that if your frost-sensitive vegetables experience a frost, it is better to pull them out and plant new ones rather than a baby the damaged ones and end up with reduced production.

Q2: Is it time to prune?

A2: The rule of thumb for many years has used February 14 as the start of pruning. (I think this is because we associate roses with Valentine’s Day). Welsh says that “the best time to prune is in winter just before spring growth begins.” There is a good publication on pruning on the Texas A&M website (aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/earthkind/landscape/proper-pruning-techniques/). We basically prune to remove dead branches, to train the plant, to maintain the health of the plant and improve its quality, or to restrict growth. There are several things to remember: don’t leave stubs after a cut, don’t top crepe myrtles (plant the correct size to begin with), and don’t use pruning paint EXCEPT when pruning oak trees. In our area where we have oak wilt, pruning paint helps keep bark beetles from spreading this disease from the open areas left by pruning.

January 2020:

Q1: Can I prune my frozen plants now?

A1: As much as you may want to clean off those unsightly dead leaves, don’t. First of all, if you prune away the dead parts of the plant, you are exposing portions that may still be alive; another freeze could kill that new portion too. Second, according to Calvin Finch, leaving the frozen portions until late February before pruning provides a benefit for birds and other wildlife as it increases their chances of surviving the winter. Finch adds that waiting to prune citrus is especially important as you won’t know until spring which buds and stems will survive.

My satsuma seems to be especially hardy as two freezes to 25 degrees didn’t even burn a leaf. If you are planning to plant new fruit trees, give a thought to planting some of the hardier fruit trees. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, gives a list of fruit crops from the least to the most difficult to grow. The list goes from blackberries, figs, citrus, pears, pecans, grapes, persimmons, apples, and plums, to peaches, the most difficult. Remember that many factors make up this list: Texas soils, chilling requirements, climate, insects and diseases, pest management, training and pruning. I personally grow figs, citrus and pears without difficulty. The fruit I have not tried is persimmon and would be interested in hearing from someone who has.

Q2: When do we plant roses?

A2: Now is a good time. Roses are in at the local nurseries. I looked through the types available and they include hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and a few miniatures and climbers. One of my favorite roses, Belinda’s Dream, caught my eye. Not only is this a beautiful pink shrub rose that blooms in the spring, summer, and fall, it is also designated an “Earth-Kind” rose by Texas AgriLife. The rose was introduced in 1992, is five feet high and wide, has very double blooms, and best of all, is much more disease and soil-tolerant than modern hybrid teas.

Another available rose that caught my eye is Angel Face which is a hybrid cross floribunda. What makes it interesting to me is that it is mauve lavender and has a strong sweet citrus fragrance. This rose was introduced in 1968. It is hardy in our area although one should keep an eye out for aphids. Remember that all roses do best in full sun and well-drained soil.

Q3: Are onion sets available locally in the Seguin area? I am looking for 1015.

A3: They are indeed. According to Texas A&M AgriLife, the plants can be planted three-fourth of an inch deep and three inches apart from now till early February. Spread fertilizer into the top 3 inches of soil. After the plants grow five or six leaves, apply fertilizer again. Water once a week. Keep weeds removed. Bulbs should be produced between May and July. AgriLife reminds us that the onions are ready when the main stem begins to weaken and fall. Leave the onions on top of the soil to dry for one or two days then bring them in and store in a dry airy place.

December 2019:

Q1: When is a good time to root shrubs and trees? I would really like more Martha Gonzales roses around my house.

A1: Young stems can be rooted anytime during the growing season. Woody stems are best rooted during the fall and winter. That said, I don’t think you will have any trouble with Martha Gonzales. I put a stem of the rose in a vase a few weeks back. After the petals fell, I didn’t get around to emptying the water and throwing the stem away. It is still growing and healthy looking so I planted it in a pot of soil.

Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac gives several steps for rooting. First, fill container with good potting soil. Make sure the container has good drainage. Then take pencil length and pencil diameter cuttings using a sharp knife. Cut the soil end of the stem at a 45 degree angle. (Remember which end is up because upside down cuttings do not root.) Remove leaves from the bottom half of the cutting and dip the end in rooting hormone. Shake off the excess. With your finger or a pencil make a hole in the soil and put the cutting into the hole. Firm the soil and water lightly. Keep moist and put in filtered light. Some people put a clear bottle or bag over the container to create a little greenhouse.

If you would like to grow Christmas gifts for next year, try rooting bougainvillea, ficus, and lantana. Then train them as they grow into small bonsai. Another gift idea is to root upright rosemary and trim it into a Christmas tree shape as the year progresses.

Q2: What blooms or fruits in Seguin in December?

A2: As I write this the last week of November, my backyard loquat tree is blooming and setting fruit (and I’ve already had two freezes). My chile pequin has fruit as does my Barbados cherry, my Possumhaw, the yaupon, and the Burford holly. The salvia, Turk’s Cap, boneset, fall aster and both my Martha Gonzales rose bushes are blooming. Some of my Gregg’s Blue Mist is still blooming, but is almost finished. The hamelia and most of my Esperanza is already frozen. I still have fruit on my satsuma (at least until the raccoons find them).

I don’t have a vegetable garden this winter, but my friends are growing broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower.

FYI: Your plumaria should be in the garage by now. My tender bonsai have been moved to a spot on the back porch where they can be covered with an incandescent light giving a little heat. The satsuma tree is pretty hardy. It managed down to 19 degrees two years ago without being covered. Don’t forget to keep those birdbaths filled for our local wildlife.

November 2019:

October 2019:

Q1:  How do I tell the difference between soapberry trees and chinaberry trees? I have one or the other on my property and can’t tell the difference. I certainly don’t want chinaberry because they are so invasive.

A1: The monthly e-newsletter from Texasinvasives.org had a nice article on the chinaberry tree in August. It gave a way to tell the difference between the two trees when they both have fruit. Chinaberry fruit remains opaque during the winter. Soapberry fruit is translucent. During the growing season, chinaberry leaves have a lacy look and a musky odor with lavender flowers in the spring. Soapberry flowers are cream-colored.

Chinaberry is certainly invasive and is found in many of our Seguin parks. The tree was introduced in the middle 1800s from Asia. The Texas Department of Agriculture will not let the tree be sold, distributed, or imported.

Q2: My hackberry trees are starting to split and fall. How old do they get in this area?

A2: I found one source that said 20 to 30 years. However, remember that they are weak wooded and you will have broken limbs every time the wind blows. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center had an interesting hackberry pro and con article on their website. Two experts debated the merits of the hackberry. The tree is very tolerant of growing conditions and has a large native range. It is important for wildlife because the berries are eaten by birds and its leaves are the larval food of butterflies and moths. On the other hand, they have heavy infestations of mistletoe, every seed sprouts and you will find them in all your beds, and falling limbs and trees cause constant clean up. (I can agree with this. I have spent much money the last couple of years having broken trees cut down and removed.)

Q3: I would like to plant some ornamental grasses in my landscape. What do you suggest?

A3: My very favorite grass, particularly this time of year, is Gulf or coastal muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) which is a Texas native plant. It is a short grass, one and a half to two feet tall, and has pink fuzzy seed heads in the fall. It is absolutely gorgeous when the sun shines through it. I check my plants and the ones in the Park West pollinator garden frequently to see if they are in bloom yet.  Another favorite grass, also a Texas native, is inland sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium). This grows to two feet and has ornamental seed heads during the summer and fall. The foliage sort of looks like very small bamboo, but doesn’t have that nasty bamboo-like habit of taking over the world.

FYI: It is time for falling leaves again. Rather than throwing them away, mow them with your mulching mower. If you just have a few on your lawn, leave them in place. If you have a lot, gather the mowed leaves and use them for mulch in your flower or vegetable beds or put them in your mulch pile. Bags of leaves can also be taken to the nearest community garden.

September 2019:

Q1:  It is so hot outside, but I know that I should be doing something in the garden. What has to be done right now?

A1: Late August and September are the best times to plant wildflower seeds. Be sure to buy fresh seed from this year’s crop. There are many places in Texas to buy wildflower seeds, including Wildseed Farms outside of Fredericksburg, our local nurseries in Seguin, and Seguin’s Gretchen Bee Ranch. Flowers that do well here are bluebonnets, black-eyed Susan, Indian blanket or Gaillardia, Indian paintbrush, horse mint, evening primrose, wine cup, Drummond phlox, liatrus, mealy cup sage, coreopsis, and standing cypress.

Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac tells how to get the best planting results. Lightly till the area where you are going to plant. Mix your seed mix with sand at 1 part seed to 4 parts sand. Spread the seed and sand mixture over the area (one fourth of a pound of seed per 500 square feet). Then tamp down the area with your feet or a roller. Water the seeded area. If we get rain in September, this is enough watering. Otherwise, lightly water once a week.

In the spring, do not remove the plants after they bloom. Leave them till the seeds are dry, no matter how bad they look. At that point you can cut the plants down and shake out the seeds.

Q2: It is technically fall this month. When do I fertilize my lawn?

A2: Do not apply fall fertilizer until your Bermuda, St. Augustine, and zoysia lawns have stopped growing.

Q3: Can I still plant tomatoes?

A3: If you hurry, there still might be time for fruit before the first freeze. My cherry tomato has started setting fruit again after those cooler nights we had. Remember that other vegetables can be planted in the fall. Most of our local gardeners consider their fall garden to be the best one of the year. Welsh says the cooler temperatures result in less plant stress and better quality and tasting vegetables. And once the temperature drops a little, there will be less stress on the gardener as well.

Q4: Should we expect to see Monarchs soon?

A4: I have been checking the pollinator garden at Park West. There has been a sighting at the Wildflower Center in Austin, as well as in San Antonio as I write this. You can go on the Internet to Monarch Watch and Journey North to check the migration route for yourself. Make sure your milkweed and other pollinator nectar plants are in good shape.  This includes Blue mistflower, coneflower, liatrus, lantana, goldenrod and Maximilian sunflowers.

FYI: Don’t forget to continue providing water for the backyard wildlife. I have low birdbaths and all kinds of animals are using them including a small furry one that I have no idea what it is.

August 2019:

Q1:  When do I do my fall rose pruning?

A1: According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, you should prune your roses back about 25 percent in mid-August. This generates new growth and more blooms. When you prune, remove old blooms, diseased rose leaves and any dead wood. Throw away the diseased leaves. After you prune, fertilize with nitrogen products. Welsh suggests one-half pound of urea, or one pound of ammonium sulfate, or four pounds of blood meal to each plant distributed in a circle at the drip line. Water thoroughly; add at least two inches of mulch. Your lovely fall roses will be ready to enter in the Guadalupe County Fair in October.

Q2: I have lots of weeds in my lawn. How can I kill them without hurting the lawn?

A2: Neil Sperry, in a San Antonio Express-News article, suggests that you apply pre-emergent granules the last week of August or the first week of September for next spring’s weeds. Depending on the weeds you have, you can apply a granule that stops grassy weeds from sprouting (Sperry suggests Dimension, Halts or Balan) or Gallery granules for broad-leafed weeds. I personally have not tried any of these because mowing seems to be enough for my lawn. (And I love having the little rain lilies sprout.) However, I do remove the few dandelions that come in from the neighbor’s lawn by putting a tiny bit of herbicide in the very center of each plant.

Q3: I am confused about poison ivy. I thought it was a vine but someone showed me a short shrub like plant and said that it was poison ivy. Help!

A3: It is often a vine and the vine part looks ropelike with the hairy rootlets extended to hold the vine to the tree. Right now, out at our parks, I see lots of poison ivy growing in short upright plants like a trailing shrub or ground cover. All of these have the three leaflets in each leaf. Right now the leaves are green but will soon turn yellow or red in the fall which actually looks lovely—lots of fall color!

Every year I repeat the steps recommended by the health officials of the Texas Workers’ Compensation Commission.  First, clean the exposed skin with rubbing alcohol. Second, wash the exposed skin with cold water and no soap (soap moves the urushiol compound that is in poison ivy around the body). Remember that warm water opens the skin pores and causes the poison ivy to spread. Third and last, take a shower with soap and warm water. Then wipe your clothes, shoes, and tools down with alcohol and water.

Q4: What should we expect to be blooming right now?

A4: Crape myrtles should be beautiful for another couple of months. (Remember, they are called the 100 day bloomer). Other blooming plants include Hamelia or Firebush, roses, lantana, salvias, Turk’s cap, althea, and Esperanza.

July 2019:

Q1:  I have small pears on both my Warren and my Kieffer pear trees. When will they be ripe?

A1: Both Warren and Kieffer pears are Oriental hybrids and are fire-blight tolerant. According to the Texas A&M article “Home Fruit Production: Pears,” both are harvested firm and then ripened. Warren ripens in August and Kieffer ripens in late September to October. These pears are ready to pick when they change from hard to firm (which I have never figured out) and when they change from green to yellow. Pick them and ripen at room temperature in a well-ventilated area. This takes one to two weeks. After they ripen, refrigerate them. I have been told by old-timers (and Texas A&M also concurs) that you can refrigerate the unripe pears at near 32 degrees, then bring them out and ripen as you need them. In fact, that is what I usually do with the pears off of my trees.

So, you ask, why not let them ripen on the tree? A&M says that if they remain on the tree, they will ripen poorly and have poorer texture and flavor.

Q2: A Master Gardener came to our garden club and talked about container gardening. I have a really hard time with my plants in pots because I don’t always remember to water them. Is there something I can do?

A2: You could set up a drip irrigation system for your pots. A simpler solution is to use hydrogel or water storing crystals in your pots. You can buy them at your local nursery (read the instructions). This helps reduce the frequency of you having to water your containers. Also, don’t forget to mulch your pots to keep that moisture from evaporating.

For some of us, container gardening enables us to grow plants that we wouldn’t be able to grow otherwise. I have root-knot nematodes in my yard, so must grow my tomatoes in pots. I also keep my mint contained so that it will not spread.

Q3: I have deer in my neighborhood. What plants can I put in that will not be eaten by deer?

A3: Remember that deer will eat almost any forbs depending on drought, availability of food, and whether the plant is young and tender. Young trees should be protected with fencing. First thing you should do is walk around your neighborhood and see which plants look good and are uneaten. Smelly herbs are usually deer resistant. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists rarely eaten deer proof plants including Texas sage, Texas Mountain Laurel, Carolina jessamine, Santolina, Mealy blue sage, Mexican mint marigold, Periwinkle, Rosemary, and Texas natives.

FYI: It is now time to start your fall vegetable garden. Tomatoes, eggplants, watermelons, pumpkins, potatoes, and peppers require three months from seed to harvest. My first freeze last year was November 14 when it was 21 degrees at my house here in Seguin. So plants would have to have been planted way before August 14 to enable you to have vegetables.

June 2019:

Q1:  You wrote an article last year about receiving a bat face cuphea plant. I’ve seen them in the nursery and wonder if you still have yours and if it survived the winter?

A1: Not only did it survive, but it is four feet across! Bat face Cuphea or Cuphea llavea is a perennial listed in the fourth edition of Austin’s Native and Adapted Landscape Plants: An Earthwise Guide for Central Texas. They list it as a one-foot by one-foot perennial that likes sun or part shade, and has low to medium water requirements (which is a good thing because I never water it).  It blooms from late spring to frost with pretty red/purple flowers. The plant is heat tolerant but cold tender. It came through our winter on the south side of my house without a cover and sprouted back in the spring. The Missouri Botanical Garden site suggests that new plants can be propagated from tip cuttings as well as from seeds. It attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.

Another Cuphea is also listed in the city of Austin’s book:  Cuphea David Verity which is probably a Cuphea micropetala. It makes a larger shrub and blooms with orange flowers from summer to fall.  Julie Ryan’s Perennial Gardens of Texas calls the plant Hummingbird Bush or Cigar Plant. This Cuphea tolerates drought but requires enough water to bloom well. Hummingbirds love it.

Q2: Birds are pecking holes in my tomatoes as they ripen. What can I do?

A2: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac reminds us that as soon as the bottom of the tomato turns from green to white (with a hint of red), you can pick the tomato. At that point it is fully mature and will ripen indoors. This is also a useful thing to remember in the fall when a frost is forecast. My garage is always full of ripening tomatoes in the winter.

Q3: With warm days already here, what are some of the things we can do to conserve water?

A3: First of all, as I mention every month, you should be mulching because mulch reduces moisture evaporation from the soil, reduces weeds, prevents the soil from compacting, and keeps the soil temperature lower.

Another chore that needs doing is for you to weed. Remember that the weeds in your flower beds and vegetable gardens are actively competing for water. Third, raise the mowing height on your lawn mower during dry conditions. Welsh suggests that St. Augustine grass be mowed at four inches, Bermuda at two inches, and Buffalo at six inches.

A fourth way to conserve water is to not over-fertilize the lawn. Too much fertilizer generates excess growth that requires more water and more mowing. When you irrigate, don’t waste water on sidewalks, driveways or fences. Adjust your sprinkler heads. And lastly, water your lawn and garden between sundown and sunrise. Wind and temperatures are lower then.

May 2019:

Q1: I went on a garden tour recently to look at native plants and spotted a blooming shrub called Rough-leaf Dogwood. Is this something I would want in my yard?

A1: Rough-leaf dogwood is a shrub or small tree that can grow to sixteen feet. It blooms with cream colored flowers in April to June, gets one-fourth inch white fruit, and has purple-red fall color. It does spread from root sprouts so you would need to mow around the tree to keep it from spreading. The tree is perennial, but does lose its leaves in the winter. It has low water use, grows in part shade or shade, and is cold tolerant. Wildflower.org says that the plant is extremely adaptable but does grow best in moist soils.

This plant is used by wildlife as a nectar source, food (berries eaten by birds), and is of special value to native bees. It is not deer resistant. Some local nurseries carry the plant, but if you are unable to find one, you can take cuttings from a friend’s tree.

Q2: Is it time to plant my warm-season annuals?

A2: My sweet smelling stock is almost gone with the seed pods practically dry. I also am ready for summer annuals. I purchased a new variety of petunia that I hadn’t seen before and put it in a large pot by the front door. Other annuals include geranium, marigold, pentas, periwinkle, portulaca, purslane, salvia, and zinnias.  Cosmos, sunflowers, and zinnias are easily grown from seed. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac notes that if you plant purslane, remember that it blooms from midmorning until late afternoon. So if you don’t get home till late, you will never get to see it bloom (well, except for weekends).

A lot of our annuals require partial shade, or at least not that full hot Texas summer sun. Some plants that are more sun tolerant include amaranthus, Bachelor button (or gomphrena), butterfly weed, cockscomb, copper plant, cosmos, lantana, morning glory, portulaca, purslane, sunflower, verbena and zinnia.

Q3: I put drip-irrigation in my flower beds. What else should I be doing to prepare for summer?

A3: Welsh recommends mulching your landscape plantings and vegetable gardens with at least a two-inch layer of mulch. It conserves water, prevents weeds and cools the soil temperature. I personally prefer cedar mulch because I like the smell. This past year I used bags of leaves my neighbor had collected.

Keep a watchful eye on your vegetable and landscape plants. Remember that the best way to catch insects and diseases is right at the beginning before they really take hold. For a small garden, hand collection of insects and a bucket of soapy water does work. Right now is the time to cover your blueberries with bird netting. Also, make sure you provide water sources for the birds since you are depriving them of blueberries.

April 2019:

Q1: I really don’t understand why you do not like weed-and-feed products. Please explain.

A1: First of all, pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in late winter for summer weed control; for winter weed control apply pre-emergent in August or September. Spring fertilizer, on the other hand, should be applied after your second mowing of the season. Fall fertilizing should be done after the first frost and the lawn has stopped growth. Therefore, the herbicide and fertilizer are applied at different times. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, mentions another caution. Your post emergent can’t differentiate between a weed and a plant or tree.  Weed-and-feed must be kept out from under tree canopies or in flower beds.

Q2: I want a big fruit tree out in the middle of my back yard. What can I grow in Seguin?

A2: There are many things to think about when choosing a fruit tree. The first factor is whether the plant will grow in the soil in your area. Another factor is whether the plant requires a certain number of chilling hours. Climate also determines what type of fruits can be grown. Something else I never thought about when I put in my fruit trees was how much pruning would be required. Check with your local nursery as to suggested varieties.

The only tree I put in that fruited the next year was my Celeste sugar fig. Not only did it fruit, but year after year gives large crops with a minimum of effort. Citrus trees also fruit within one to two years after planting. However, you are limited to smaller citrus varieties that can be grown in pots and protected during freezes. Calamondin, satsumas, tangerines, kumquats and lemons are among these varieties. Satsumas can be grown in the ground. Mine has been in my back yard since 2014 and has weathered several spells of 19 degree temperature. Literature says they survive as low as 26, so I must have a good spot.

Pears require four to six years after planting to grow fruit. Two varieties are recommended for good fruiting as they are self-unfruitful. Welsh says that the less you prune and fertilize, the more pears you will get. Cutting down on pruning is definitely a plus. My favorite pear is the Kieffer. For other varieties, check with your local nursery.

Personally, I have no luck with either plums or peaches. My plums get little insects that bore into the fruit. My peach trees die.  If you really want to grow peaches, check the number of chilling hours required. These are the number of hours during which temperatures are below 45 degrees F and above 32 degrees F.  Guadalupe County is in the 600 to 700 hour zone. My suggestion is to check what neighbors near you are growing successfully.

FYI: Be sure to attend Earth Day activities in downtown Seguin April 27. The Master Gardeners always have plenty of plants and herbs, and the Native Plant Society has many different varieties of native plants. Also, the Master Naturalists’ booth emphasizes the relationships between plants and nature.

March 2019:

Q1: What is the best time of year to view local wildflowers?

A1: In our area, it is almost all year long. To help you, there is a talk coming up called “Explore Texas Wildflowers” by Michael Eason who heads the rare plant conservation department at the San Antonio Botanical Garden. The talk, sponsored by the Guadalupe Native Plant Society, will be held Saturday, March 16 at the Schertz Civic Center from 9 a.m. till noon.  For more information you can contact 210-289-9997.

Right now, on Meadow Lake Drive, Indian paintbrush, Castilleja indivisa, has just started blooming in amongst the phlox. Our Texas annual grows six to sixteen inches high with the stems topped by red tipped spikes. The color on this member of the snapdragon family is on the bracts, not the flower petals (which are very inconspicuous). The blooms should last from March through May. Wildflower.org mentions an interesting side note. The roots of the Indian paintbrush will grow until they touch the roots of other plants. They then penetrate these roots to obtain part of their nutrients. This probably explains why transplanting paintbrush may kill it.

Paintbrush is an annual that requires a medium amount of water, sun, and dry soil moisture. It likes an acidic soil (which surprises me since it is growing all around here). The plant will grow in sandy soils, sandy loam, clay loam, and clay. The nectar of the flowers attracts hummingbirds and insects. The plant is a larval host for the Buckeye butterfly.

Q2: There are a lot of flowering vines and shrubs and trees right now. When should I buy them?

A2: According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, you should buy them right now so that you know what the blooms look like. He says that color can vary within species and between varieties. Both the Mexican and Texas redbud trees show examples of these color variations.

Q3: My neighbor has drip irrigation on his vegetable garden and on his shrubs. What is the benefit of this?

A3: There are a number of benefits according to Welsh. Plants perform better by producing more vegetables and fruit and flowers. Plants are healthier because you have less disease and decay from sprinkler splash. Plants have a constant level of soil moisture with less stress from “too little or too much.” Water loss (compared to using sprinklers) is reduced by up to 60 percent. Drip irrigation is easier on the gardener. Several downsides do occur. The emitters on the lines can clog although you can buy filters and self-cleaning emitters. Also rodents can chew on the lines, or you can cut them with your shovel. (Welsh suggests getting a cat for the first problem.)

FYI: Several jobs can be done now. Divide fall-blooming perennials and ornamental grasses. This will give them time to get established before blooming time. Cut back the foliage of ornamental grasses when you see the new growth emerging.

February 2019:

Q1: I saw a blooming Indian paintbrush in the median of 123. Does that mean I can plant my annuals now?

A1: Probably not. As I write this, there is still frost on my porch railings. Warm season annuals should not be planted until after the danger of killing frost has passed. Talk to your local nursery person and see what they have available. (I just planted a six pack of maroon poppies).

Many annuals are best planted as transplants, but some can be planted by seed directly into the flower bed with great success, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. These annuals are alyssum, bachelor button, cosmos, larkspur, marigold, periwinkle, poppy, sweet pea, sunflower and zinnia. After the seedlings sprout, you need to thin them out so that they will be sturdy and healthy. Look at the seed packet to find the recommended spacing between each plant.

Warm season annuals that can usually be bought locally include amaranthus, bachelor button, begonia, cockscomb, coleus, copper plant, cosmos, geranium, impatiens, marigold, Mexican heather, morning glory, nicotiana, petunia, portulaca, purslane, salvia, sunflower, verbena and zinnia. Many of these make wonderful cut flowers so they serve double duty.

Q2: Last year you gave Welsh’s formula for calculating how much mulch to buy for your lawn. Please print it again because I cannot find the formula.

A2: Sure. Multiple the area you want mulched by the desired depth of mulch expressed in feet; then divide that amount by the number of cubic feet in the bag. The rule of thumb is, always buy more than you think you will need! So why do we want mulch? Welsh reminds us that mulching conserves water so that it does not escape through evaporation from the soil. It reduces soil erosion, keeps soils warmer in winter and cooler in the summer, and it reduces weeds (or at least makes it easier to pull them). Also mulch has lovely organic matter which decomposes into the soil over time. And sometimes the mulch itself without any plants makes an eye-catching display.

Q3: When should we prune?

A3: The best time is in winter before the spring growth starts EXCEPT for spring-flowering shrubs, trees and vines. Prune these after they bloom. Examples of these are honeysuckle, redbud, spring-blooming climbing and shrub roses (like the Lady Banks), Texas mountain laurel and wisteria. Summer blooming shrubs should be pruned in late winter. This group includes most roses, althea, butterfly bush, and vitex. Welsh says that pruning shrubs with ornamental berries is difficult because you prune after the berries have dropped or been eaten by birds, but before spring growth begins. This presents you with a challenge in our area because spring growth starts so early. Remember, don’t top crape myrtle. If you want a small crape myrtle, buy a miniature (2 to 3 feet) or a dwarf (3 to 6 feet).

January 2019

Q: I’ve been looking over my garden and wonder what I should be doing this time of year. Do you have suggestions?

A: Now is a great time to catch up on your weeding. There are dandelions all over my yard so I am sure they are in everyone else’s yard also.  This morning I noticed that my asparagus has not been cut back yet as it should have been after it froze. Cut yours back and then apply mulch. Have you planted your flowering bulbs? Do so now. Also there is still plenty of winter left to enjoy our cool-season annuals such as calendula, cyclamen, dianthus, Johnny-jump-ups, ornamental kale, pansies, snapdragons, stock and violas. Add compost to the soil before planting. If you can find bluebonnet transplants, plant them now. My wild ones in the yard are already the size of a transplant.

All of your beds need compost and mulch. If we don’t get more rain, water if the ground is dry. If a dead-looking landscape doesn’t bother you, refrain from pruning your freeze damaged plant material. Remember that this dead material provides some insulation for healthy plant tissue, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. I always leave my pruning for late February or March. Remove plant debris (dead leaves, flowers, and twigs) from your planting beds, particularly under rose bushes. The debris can harbor pests and diseases. This sounds opposite to mulching, however I am referring to debris from the plant that had leaf spot or wilt, or dead tomato plants (possibly with nematodes).

Now is also the time to transplant those shrubs and trees that you prepared for transplanting a couple of months ago. New trees can also be planted. Bare root roses should be planted now. Is your living Christmas tree still in the house? Move it outside to a shady location. After it acclimates for a week, plant it into the landscape.

Mow your lawn to get rid of those winter weeds (ryegrass, dandelions, clover, henbit, etc.) as well as to cut up the fallen leaves and turn them into mulch. The vegetable gardener has plenty to do. You can sow seed of beets, carrots, English peas, greens, lettuce, radishes, sugar snap and snow peas, and turnips. Cool season transplants can go in, such as asparagus, broccoli, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, greens, kohlrabi, onions, and Swiss chard. Cold tolerant herbs can be planted including chives, cilantro (mine has already sprouted), dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage and thyme.

This is a good time of year to look around town and see which plants hold up to a freeze so that you can plan for your future landscaping. My satsuma came through like a champ. It had only a few frozen leaves yet it was uncovered and in the middle of the lawn.

Don’t forget our feathered friends and resident wildlife (squirrels, raccoons, possums, foxes). Provide water with birdbaths and ground level containers. Change the water frequently to keep out mosquito larvae.

December 2018:

Q1: I am getting older and would really like a low-maintenance landscape. Do you have suggestions?

A1: As I age, I find that getting on the ground and digging in flower beds does not appeal to me as much. I took out some overgrown sprawling juniper by my front door (fire hazard; also a snake lived in it), and replaced it with mulch. Now if I want seasonal flowers, I just place a pot or two in the middle of the area. Another area of mulch has a sun dial and a birdbath.

Largish shrubs take the place of many smaller plants. My flower beds have all been turned into mulched areas. A Yaupon with three to five trunks (and mulch underneath) makes a striking accent for the yard. It also is evergreen with red berries. Nonnative shrubs that are evergreen stand-alone accents include different types of hollies such as Burford. Mine is covered in red berries this time of year. I shear it with hedge trimmers in the spring. Other shrubs that I am happy with include Esperanza and Hamelia (Firebush). Both freeze pretty much to the ground in the winter. This is a good thing as you cut all the dead growth back in the spring (an easy job), then have no more maintenance till next spring. My Cenizo bushes require no maintenance, although I could trim them if I wanted. However, as is, they provide a good screen to mask the neighbor’s yard.

So basically, simplify by mulching, expanding your shrub plantings, and putting in interesting pavers (winding pathways), with limestone accent rocks, as well as statuary. When you do plant, use native plants or well-adapted plants that are meant for Central Texas. You might consider putting in an irrigation system. It certainly saves lugging hoses around. Remember, just because you have it doesn’t mean you have to water two or three times a week. Use common sense and check the soil two inches down with your finger.

Q2: Last year you mentioned buying living Christmas trees but I did not save the article. What will do well here?

A2: For Central Texas there are seven trees that are adapted to the area, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. They include Arizona cypress, Deodar cedar, Eastern red cedar, Eldarica pine, Italian stone pine, Leyland cypress, and Nellie R. Stevens holly. Make sure your tree comes in a three to fifteen gallon container (not larger or you won’t be able to lift it in and out of the house). When it is inside, place the tree in the brightest natural light available, and keep the soil moist, not wet (or dry). Check the moisture with your finger daily. Remember, this is an outdoor tree so don’t keep it inside more than two to three weeks. Plant immediately after Christmas. The root system will grow during the winter and the tree will be all ready for spring.

Decorate your outdoor trees with fruit slices, pine cones covered with peanut butter and bird seed, and strings of natural popcorn (no butter or salt) and cranberries. Keep your birdbaths full.

November 2018:

Q1: I am getting older and would really like a low-maintenance landscape. Do you have suggestions?

A1: As I age, I find that getting on the ground and digging in flower beds does not appeal to me as much. I took out some overgrown sprawling juniper by my front door (fire hazard; also a snake lived in it), and replaced it with mulch. Now if I want seasonal flowers, I just place a pot or two in the middle of the area. Another area of mulch has a sun dial and a birdbath.

Largish shrubs take the place of many smaller plants. My flower beds have all been turned into mulched areas. A Yaupon with three to five trunks (and mulch underneath) makes a striking accent for the yard. It also is evergreen with red berries. Nonnative shrubs that are evergreen stand-alone accents include different types of hollies such as Burford. Mine is covered in red berries this time of year. I shear it with hedge trimmers in the spring. Other shrubs that I am happy with include Esperanza and Hamelia (Firebush). Both freeze pretty much to the ground in the winter. This is a good thing as you cut all the dead growth back in the spring (an easy job), then have no more maintenance till next spring. My Cenizo bushes require no maintenance, although I could trim them if I wanted. However, as is, they provide a good screen to mask the neighbor’s yard.

So basically, simplify by mulching, expanding your shrub plantings, and putting in interesting pavers (winding pathways), with limestone accent rocks, as well as statuary. When you do plant, use native plants or well-adapted plants that are meant for Central Texas. You might consider putting in an irrigation system. It certainly saves lugging hoses around. Remember, just because you have it doesn’t mean you have to water two or three times a week. Use common sense and check the soil two inches down with your finger.

Q2: Last year you mentioned buying living Christmas trees but I did not save the article. What will do well here?

A2: For Central Texas there are seven trees that are adapted to the area, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. They include Arizona cypress, Deodar cedar, Eastern red cedar, Eldarica pine, Italian stone pine, Leyland cypress, and Nellie R. Stevens holly. Make sure your tree comes in a three to fifteen gallon container (not larger or you won’t be able to lift it in and out of the house). When it is inside, place the tree in the brightest natural light available, and keep the soil moist, not wet (or dry). Check the moisture with your finger daily. Remember, this is an outdoor tree so don’t keep it inside more than two to three weeks. Plant immediately after Christmas. The root system will grow during the winter and the tree will be all ready for spring.

Decorate your outdoor trees with fruit slices, pine cones covered with peanut butter and bird seed, and strings of natural popcorn (no butter or salt) and cranberries. Keep your birdbaths full.

October 2018:

Q1: When do I fertilize my lawn?

A1: The general rule of thumb is to fertilize when you haven’t needed to mow for two weeks (showing that growth has slowed down). Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists October 15 as the fall fertilizer date for Central Texas. Fertilizers should be high in nitrogen and potassium and have either low or no phosphorus (either 2-1-2 or 1-0-1).  Of course, you need to check your own lawn first. I just received my latest front yard soil test. It has been 8 years since my last test and phosphorus, potassium, and calcium are still in the high to very high range. Eight years ago all I needed was three tenths of a pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Now I need a half pound.  Welsh says that fall fertilization prolongs fall color, increases winter hardiness, and promotes earlier spring green-up.

Q2: What wildflowers are blooming now?

A2: The flowers I look forward to each year are the showy goldenrod or Solidago altissima.  All of mine have made buds and are opening. Goldenrod is often blamed for hay fever, which is actually caused by ragweed, a plant blooming at the same time. If you want to see a large field in bloom, look across 123 Bypass from Argent Court. Red salvia is blooming in my back yard, and if you visit the Park West pollinator garden, you will see red salvia there as well as the blue sage in bloom. Esperanza and lantana are still blooming as well as Gregg’s Mistflower (Conoclinium greggii).  Blooming oxalis is all over my back yard.

Q3: My neighbor has holly with red berries on it in the winter. What can I buy that will grow here and has berries?

A3: American beautyberry is a must. It has lovely purple berries. Of course, Burford holly and Nellie R. Stevens holly are also pretty showy. Possumhaw holly drops its leaves, but the berries remain on the shrub which makes it very interesting in the winter landscape. Yaupon holly (Ilex vomitoria) is one of my favorites. I usually cut branches for house decoration.

Q4: You always say not to throw leaves away. It is that time of year for leaf drop, so what can I do with them?

A4: If you only have a few trees in your yard, mowing with a mulching mower is the answer. This way the shredded leaves remain in place and eventually add nutrients to your yard. If you have more than a few leaves, and don’t have a compost bin, use the leaves as mulch. I place them in my flower beds all around the house. Another spot for leaves is in each furrow in between your vegetable rows. Welsh suggests also using them to till directly into a bed of heavy clay soil (or light, sandy soil) to add aeration and drainage (or to improve water and nutrient holding capacity). Also add a small amount of nitrogen or manure to aid decomposition.  Do not throw your leaves away. Check with your local community garden or take them to the Lulac Community Garden at Vaughn and New Braunfels Street.

September 2018:

Q1: When is the best time to plant container-grown trees and shrubs?

A1: According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, fall is the perfect time for many reasons. It is hard to realize that fall is practically here, but as the weather cools, plant stress is reduced. There is more abundant rainfall (hopefully), and, let’s face it, working outside is easier on the gardener. When container plants are planted in the fall, their root systems have time to adjust to transplanting before the spring growth begins. Remember that this does not apply to bare-root plants. Wait until winter and the bare-root plants are dormant. Then, underground, roots will form, and in the spring new growth will appear.

Q2: I think that I want perennial flowers rather than annuals in my garden so that I don’t have to replant every year. What kind do well here?

A2: There are many perennials that do well here. I will list my favorites that have grown nicely for me over the years. I really like Esperanza or Tecoma stans. It does grow to four or five feet, but since it freezes every winter is easily manageable. It blooms all summer and fall with yellow tubular flowers.  Firebush, or Hamelia patens, is another favorite. This one also has tubular flowers and freezes back in the winter. I actually like the idea of plants freezing back because it makes them easier to control.

My Turk’s cap, another perennial, does not freeze to the ground and is gradually taking over the back yard. Pavonia or rock rose is a favorite that has lovely pink flowers and is extremely drought tolerant. Rosemary is a perennial with tiny blue flowers. I am partial to the upright variety. The prostrate forms tend to produce roots wherever they touch the ground. I have one plant that is consuming one of my raised beds.

If you have partial shade, you might want to try columbine. This lovely plant blooms in the spring with yellow tubular flowers. The tree that shaded my columbine bed fell, so my plants are now in full sun and not happy. Another shade perennial that was in the same bed were my sweet violets. When we get plenty of rain in the winter and early spring, their blooms are simply beautiful. A fall bloomer is the fall aster with its lovely purple flowers. To see what a bush looks like when it is not in bloom, visit the Pollinator Garden at Park West.

Q3: Is it time to plant wildflowers?

A3: Late August and September are the best times to plant seed says Doug Welsh. Make sure you get fresh seeds and plant one-fourth pound per 500 square feet. I have had good luck planting bluebonnets and larkspur. Other wildflowers you could plant are black-eyed Susan, Drummond phlox, Gaillardia or Indian blanket, Gayfeather or liatrus, Indian paintbrush, horse mint, mealy cup sage, pink evening primrose, coreopsis, and wine cup. Please remember that in order to have blooms year after year, you must not remove the dead blooms or plants until all the flowers make seed. Use a small sign to alert the neighbors that you are not mowing for a reason.

August 2018:

Q1: With the infrequent rain that we’ve been getting, I worry about my trees. I do have an irrigation system, but wonder if that is enough water. How much water should trees get?

A1: Aggie-horticulture says that watering which is adequate for lawn grasses growing under trees is not adequate for actively growing trees. Trees need a deep soaking once a week in the growing season and this should be done just inside and a little beyond the dripline, not at the trunk. Doug Welsh says the ground should be saturated to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Some years ago my husband took 5 gallon buckets and drilled a quarter inch hole on one side at the bottom.  We placed the buckets under the trees at the drip line and filled each one with water which then trickled out slowly into the ground. This makes an easy way to water and you don’t have to remember to turn off the hose.

Aggie-horticulture had a really interesting chart on the average weekly water requirements for pecan trees in gallons per tree. Four to seven year old trees require 224 gallons of water per tree in both July and in August (as compared to 56 gallons in April).

Remember that if you have grass or weeds growing around and under your trees, they are taking some of the nutrients and the water. Remove the grass and replace with mulch.

Q2: Do we need to add calcium to our soil here in Seguin?

A2: This was a question asked to our website and answered by our webmaster Bob Teweles. Basically, to summarize, he said that our clay soils already have plenty of calcium, and he suggested that the homeowner should get a soil analysis done. (Get a sample bag and instructions from the AgriLife Extension office at 210 East Live Oak.) I had a soil test done eight years ago and was surprised by the results. The only thing my moderately alkaline soil needed was nitrogen. It was high or very high in the other nutrients.  I have just sent in another soil sample to see how much the analysis changes (if at all).

Most of us need to add organic matter such as compost to the soil. When you mow, use a mulching mower and leave the clippings. Mulch your flower beds and the decomposition of the mulch improves the bed underneath.

Q3: Should I be doing something about my roses?

A3: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests that you begin in the middle of August to prune your roses back about 25 percent. Then remove all of the old blooms if the pruning didn’t get them all. He also suggests you remove the diseased rose leaves (throw them away). As the plants begin blooming again, continue deadheading as this will extend the blooming season. Fertilize with a nitrogen product, then water thoroughly and add mulch.

FYI: Keep those birdbaths filled. Mine empty out every day and always are surrounded by birds. Hopefully your fall tomatoes are planted. That first freeze comes all too soon.

July 2018:

Q1: My water bill is already high, and the recent rain was barely enough to soak the lawn. What can I do?

A1: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac has several suggestions. He says to increase the lawn-mower mowing height during the summer to decrease lawn water use and to increase drought tolerance. Suggested heights are two inches for Bermuda, four inches for St. Augustine, and 6 inches for Buffalo. Also, you should reduce the rate of fertilizer that is applied to your lawn. Another of his suggestions may not appeal to you, and that is to let irrigated lawns turn brown where appropriate. I already do this on the back of my property in the “wildscape” area. Many lawn areas can be replaced with decks and patios, or groundcovers. My side yard has large beds with landscape plantings and lots and lots of mulch. Mulch, according to Welsh, is the highest impact, lowest tech water-conserving practice. In fact, even container-grown plants should be mulched.

Remember to water your lawn and garden between sundown and sunrise. The wind is lower and the temperature is lower which helps keep down evaporation.

Q2: I just moved here and was told that July is when we start our fall vegetable garden. Is that true? It is so hot!

A2: It is definitely true. Our first frost date for this area is around November 24. If you have planted fall tomatoes and peppers, you want them picked and in your house by then. That said, October 29 last year was 32 degrees. Plants that require two months from seed to harvest include beets, broccoli, cauliflower, collard greens, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips.  Crops requiring three months from seed to harvest include Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, onions, acorn and butternut squash. Read your seed packet and figure out when you need to plant. Our local nurseries already have small transplants of tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers. This early start will help you reach harvest for the warm season vegetables. You will probably have to water the transplants every day in this heat, and may have to provide some shade. Now is a good time to think about drip irrigation for your vegetable garden.

If you have just moved here, you probably are not used to having a fall garden. In this area, fall gardens have many good things going for them: the crops are maturing as the days get shorter and cooler, so the quality is higher (less bitter taste); rainfall is more frequent in the fall; insect pest populations are declining (although you still need to keep an eye on your plants); and best of all, the weather is much more pleasant for you to be out in the garden.

FYI: Don’t forget to keep your birdbaths full for the birds and other small animals in our landscape. To keep down the mosquito population, empty your birdbaths when you refill them, although my local animals are thirsty enough that the containers are almost empty every day.

June 2018:

Q1: My neighbor has native plants. The one I really love is called Rock Rose and seems to bloom all the time.  What can you tell me about it?

A1:  Pavonia lasiopetala (Rock Rose, Rose Mallow, Rose Pavonia) is one of my favorites too. Mine is on the south side of my house and blooms from spring to fall. This small shrub grows 3 to 6 feet high (mine is more like 3 feet), is perennial, and has high heat tolerance. Both wildflower.org and aggie-horticulture like the plant and comment on its ability to survive the summer heat.  The rose pink flowers look like small hibiscus and open in the morning, then close in late afternoon. I have used them as cut flowers and a blooming stem lasts for several days. If you want more plants, seeds can be collected or softwood cuttings taken in the spring. Both my sources suggest pruning the plant frequently to promote new growth and more flowers.

Rock Rose can also grow in part shade (there were several bushes in front of City Hall against the building). The bush attracts nectar butterflies and moths as well as hummingbirds and bees. It is moderately deer resistant but you know what that means.

Q2: It is already so hot. Can any annuals survive our heat?

A2: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, a lot of our old favorites do just fine. Marigolds, periwinkle, portulaca (or moss rose), purslane, and zinnias do well in our sun and heat. And don’t forget the heat resistant shrubs. My gold star esperanza or yellow bells (Tecoma stans) already has blooms, as does my perennial John Fanick phlox. Almost all of my salvia are blooming. My Firebush (Hamelia patens) is close to blooming, and I’ve seen lots of lantana around town with flowers. Remember that plants that do well in sun and heat still need water. Keep an eye on your plants and water when necessary since we can’t count on having rain.

When you water, fill your bird baths. All of our garden wildlife need water. My resident pair of blue jays come in and bathe almost every day, (and I know the possums and raccoons use the lowest birdbath because it is always a mess.)

Q3: Will the Guadalupe County Master Gardeners have a training class this year?

A3: Yes, they definitely will. The class in which you can become a Certified Master Gardener will be on Tuesdays, July 31 to November 27, from 12:45 to 4:45 p.m., and will take place at the AgriLife Extension building, 210 E. Live Oak, in Seguin. The cost includes wonderful classroom speakers and a Texas Master Gardener Handbook (even after many years in Master Gardeners, I still use my book). For more information contact Karen Ulrich at 210-422-1594 or kku14035@aol.com. There is a ten percent discount if tuition is paid by July 15.

May 2018:

Q1: I never have any problems with my heritage roses. However, my miniature rose that grows in a pot on my deck has spots on the leaves. What is causing this and what can I do?

A1: Now is the time to talk about the Disease Triangle. According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, diseases occur when three conditions exist at the same time: a susceptible host, a pathogen, and a favorable environment. The easiest condition to check is the environment. Did you overwater? Have you used a pesticide or herbicide? Does your water have a high salt content? Perhaps you have a combination of these things. Roses do best in full sun. Your deck is almost completely shaded by an oak tree. Try moving the plant into the sun and see what happens then. Also, remove the spotted leaves and throw them away. Wait to see if the problem is resolved; if not, spray with fungicide.

Q2: Should I worry about aphids on my milkweed?

A2: First, do not spray with insecticide. Monarch Joint Venture reports that most of the questions that come to them concern aphids. You will have aphids. If the infestation is really bad, remove them manually by squishing, then rinse the plants with water. Before doing this, make sure that you are not also removing Monarch eggs and larvae. If you are sure there are no eggs or larvae on the plant, then you can spray with soapy water which will kill the aphids. Rinse with clean water after a day to remove the residue. However, the safest method is the squishing. (It also helps with aggression).

Q3: Is it time to put in warm-season annuals?

A3: Definitely. Marigolds, penta, periwinkle, portulaca, purslane, and salvia can all be planted now, as well as amaranthus, bachelor button (gomphrena), begonias, cockscomb, coleus, cosmos, geraniums, petunias, sunflowers, and zinnias. Go by your local nursery and fill up your cart.

Q4: I received a bat faced cuphea plant at a garden club meeting. What should I know about it?

A4:  Bat faced cuphea (Cuphea llavea) is a native of Mexico and a perennial in this area. In warmer winters they are evergreen, but deciduous in cooler ones. The plant can survive temperatures into the 20s. Cuphea grows to two feet high and spreads to three feet. Plant in well-drained soil in full sun and do not overwater. It blooms from late spring to the first frost, and attracts hummingbirds and butterflies.

Q5: Is it too late to mulch?

A5: It is never too late. In fact, I understand that the city has a new chipper that makes much smaller chips than the old one. Or, perhaps you have a neighbor that still has leaves on his lawn and will let you have them. Make sure your fruit trees are mulched and watered. I have lots of little Kieffer pears, many small satsumas, and a million baby figs that I am keeping a close eye on.

April 2018:

Q1: Someone just gave me a Coral Honeysuckle plant. What should I know about it?

A1: Lonicera sempervirens is a native plant whose flowers attract hummingbirds, bees (including the bumblebee) and butterflies. The plant itself is a larval host for the Spring Azure butterfly and the Snowberry Clearwing Moth according to Wildflower.org. The fruit attracts quail, purple finch, goldfinch, the hermit thrush and the American robin. This vine is a good climber but not too aggressive, and can grow from 3 to 20 feet.  Wildflower.org lists the vine as being a moderate water user that requires sun or part shade and moist soil. It is cold tolerant, able to grow in different types of soils, and requires light, good air circulation, and adequate drainage.

Propagation is by seeds (but they require stratification). Softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings can be made in summer and fall. The vine can be controlled by pruning after it flowers.

Q2: I want a citrus tree for my yard here in Guadalupe County. What do you suggest?

A2: You need to buy a satsuma mandarin tree (Citrus reticulate). According to Aggie-horticulture this mandarin orange has superb quality, is nearly seedless, plus the flowers have a wonderful odor. The best thing about the satsuma is that it is the most cold-hardy of citrus fruits (second only to the kumquat). Mine is planted in the yard and survived 19 degrees this winter without even a brown leaf, although the recommended cold tolerance is only to 26 degrees. A&M suggests planting satsumas on the south or southeast side of the house for the best cold weather protection. In fact, Extension horticulturist Dr. Steve George recommends planting in containers that are at least 20 gallons in size. The plant needs full sun, at least 8 to 10 hours of sun a day.

Q3: How do I get rid of grassburs in my lawn?

A3: This is a question asked in Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac. He suggests dragging a burlap bag behind the lawn mower to catch the grassburs so that next year there will be fewer plants. My husband and I tried this. We also tried a pre-emergent herbicide. Neither worked. What did work was going out every morning and digging up each plant. It took three years, but the only grassburs in my yard now come in with rain water run-off from down the street.

Q4: My neighbor really wants to plant ligustrum as a barrier hedge. I know you fuss about the fact that ligustrum is very invasive. What can my neighbor plant instead?

A4: There are several native shrubs that would do well. Evergreen sumac (Rhus virens) is a lovely shrub or small tree from 8 to 12 feet in height. The female plants have flowers and berries. Lady Bird Wildflower Center notes that it is not a true evergreen. The leaves stay green during the winter, then drop and are replaced within a week. Wax Myrtle, Morella cerifera, another nice native shrub, is also called southern bayberry. It is multi-trunked, evergreen, and usually six to twelve feet in height. Blue berries are on the female plants in the winter so you could make your own scented candles.

March 2018:

Q1: How do I know when spring is here? I am anxious to start gardening.

A1: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, spring is here when you see Carolina jessamine blooming (and it’s blooming on 123 Bypass), and when you see Mexican plum blooming (there’s a lovely one over by Vogel school). Other spring bloomers are Texas redbud, Bradford pear, Texas mountain laurel, and the Lady Banks rose. My neighbor’s mountain laurel is starting to bloom, and there is a field of purple phlox on Meadow Lake Drive.  If you want to buy a spring flowering shrub for your lawn, now is the time to go to the nursery and see them in bloom. This way you can be sure that you are buying the color you want.

Q2: How do I know how long to water my lawn?

A2: This is why you’ve been saving all those empty cat food cans. Place them around your lawn and water until you have one inch of water in the can. Welsh says that one inch of water will go six inches deep into clay soil and 12 inches deep into a sandy soil. To avoid having runoff, he suggests letting your irrigation sprinklers go around the property three times. In other words, if it takes an hour to get one inch on your lawn, water in twenty minute increments three times.  Remember, only water when the lawn needs watering. Put your finger into the soil. If the soil to 3 inches is cool, you don’t need to water. If the soil is warm or dry, then water.

Q3: Vegetables are in the nurseries already. Can I plant them now?

A3: I wanted a Rodeo tomato so I bought a six pack early in case they sold out. I then planted each tomato in a one gallon pot and put them outside in the sun. If we get another freeze, I can just pull them in the house. Or go ahead and plant your garden now. You can always cover the plants.

Q4: Is it all right to prune back the freeze damage now?

A4: Prune away all the freeze damage. I cut my hamelia and Esperanza almost to the ground. I also cut my Gulf muhly back. All my roses have been trimmed, and my salvia cut back at least two-thirds. Other plants in my yard that I’ve cut back were rock rose and althea. My holly shrubs still need the hedge trimmer and I need to get more of the yaupon off of my roof.

Mr. Cliff Caskey, retired A&M horticulturist and owner of Caskey Orchards in San Marcos, spoke on fruit trees the other night to the Nogales Garden Club. He again mentioned the importance of using mulch on fruit trees. I was impressed when he said you can’t get too much mulch on fig trees. By the way, A&M says not to prune mature Celeste fig trees because it reduces the crop size. My Celeste, my favorite fig of all the ones grown around here, is really prolific and provides enough figs for all the neighbors.  Celeste can be rooted by cuttings.

February 2018:

Q1: I have seen people trimming their oak trees. Is it too early? What about oak wilt?

A1: It is too late, not early.  Oak trees should have been pruned during the coldest days in midwinter.  Avoid pruning from February through June. You can also prune during extended hot periods in mid- to late summer according to texasoakwilt.org. Treat the cut immediately with a wound or latex paint.

Q2: What can I prune now?

A2: Valentine’s Day is the date that I’ve always heard for pruning roses. Calvin Finch says that peaches, plums and other fruit trees can be pruned in February. He also says to resist removing your frozen lantanas, salvias, Esperanza, fire bush, Poinciana, duranta, and cape honeysuckle until late February since the frozen cover benefits birds and other wildlife. Wait before pruning your citrus, Finch adds. You will be better able to tell which buds and stems will survive and which should be pruned. My satsuma came through those 19 degree nights fairly well. I did not cover it, but had the ground heavily mulched.

Q3: There are baby tomato plants in the store already. Can I plant them now?

A3: Please wait. There is still plenty of time left for a freeze. Instead, transplant the little plant into a one gallon container. Then place it in the sun during the day and bring it in at night or when it drops to the low fifties. I realize that this is a lot of work, but you will be the first in your neighborhood with fresh tomatoes.

Q4: Can I still grow broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, potatoes, and onions?

A4: Put in transplants now and you will probably get a crop before it gets too hot. Don’t forget those cold tolerant herbs Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says to put in chives, cilantro, dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage and thyme. I’ve just transplanted two root cuttings of trailing rosemary for the Master Gardener spring sale.

Q5: At the last Native Plant Society meeting I received a small snapdragon vine. The speaker told us a bit about the plant. Can you please add more?

A5: Snapdragon vine, Maurandella (or Maurandya) antirrhiniflora depending whether you use Wildflower.org or aggie-horticulture, has many names. These include Roving sailor, Violet twining snapdragon, little snapdragon vine and others. The plant is a member of the figwort family and blooms from March through October. This very small vine only grows to about ten feet. Aggie-horticulture thinks it would look really nice next to an entry or garden bench. Wildflower.org likes it on small trellises or trailing from a hanging basket. Better Homes and Gardens also likes containers but warns that when the vine is planted in a pot, it needs excellent drainage. The vine is hardy to zone 8, but usually re-seeds itself the following year. Seed can be gotten from Native American Seeds or from a local gardener.

January 2018:

Q1: I am getting ready to put pollinator attracting plants in a full sun section of a public community garden, and I want them to have red and yellow blooms. It would be nice if they could mostly be perennial so that they wouldn’t have to be changed out with the seasons. Do you have suggestions?

A1: I always like different levels of plants in a pollinator garden. You could start with a small tree such as a Texas redbud or a Mexican plum. Yaupon holly, a large shrub (if you keep it trimmed), could be added. Texas lantana (Lantana urticoides) is one of my favorites. Flame acanthus blooms summer through fall. Esperanza and Firebush (Hamelia patens) round out my shrub list.

Then smaller plants could be added, including Black-eyed Susan, Pride of Barbados, Mexican marigold, Cedar sage (Salvia roemeriana), Tropical sage (Salvia coccinea), Zexmenia (Wedelia texana), Lindheimer senna, Engelmann daisy, goldenrod, and some of the milkweeds, such as Asclepius tuberosa.

One of the main things to remember in a pollinator garden is to use no pesticides. When you buy your plants at the nursery, ask if they have been treated with pesticides. This is particularly important for plants that get chewed on as host plants.

Q2: I would like to plant a few rose bushes this spring. What is your all-time favorite?

A2: Actually, I have two favorites, Katy Road Pink (Carefree Beauty) and Martha Gonzales. Katy Road Pink was a found rose that later was discovered to have been introduced in 1977 as Carefree Beauty. It has pink flowers and grows as if it were an antique rose (in other words, disease resistant and easy care). If you are into jelly making, the rose produces many rosehips. Martha Gonzales is an antique rose and is very disease tolerant. It has red blooms from spring to frost. Cuttings root fairly well. The main reason I like this bush is that it is very compact, about 3 feet by 3 feet.

Q3: Can I cut back my winter damaged plants now?

A3: Try not to prune freeze-damaged plants because the material provides some insulation for the healthy parts of the plant. Doug Welsh says to wait till February or March to prune. You can, however, pull weeds and remove plant debris from your planting areas. Some of this debris may harbor disease or pests so throw it away (and not in your compost pile).

For January, keep your bird baths full for our feathered friends. And collect all those lovely bags of leaves people are throwing out for your compost pile and the areas under your shrubs where you usually mulch. My neighbor has been bringing me much appreciated huge bags of leaves!

December 2017:

Q1: Can I grow Rose of Sharon in Guadalupe County?

A1: Although that name can apply to several types of plants, around here we know it as an althea, or a Hibiscus syriacus. This is an introduced deciduous shrub that is a native from China to India. This member of the hibiscus family blooms from June to October and does grow here in this county. I have one that always grows to above the edge of my roof each year and must be kept trimmed. Otherwise it is low maintenance (if you like to trim), requires medium water, and attracts butterflies. When I checked the Missouri Botanical Garden site for invasive locations in the U.S., I found Georgia and Tennessee and a few spots in East Texas. Since I am always finding babies around my plant, you probably need to keep close watch.

Q2: What can I plant along my front sidewalk by the front door that is perennial and blooms?

A2: One of my favorite plants is the dwarf Barbados cherry or Malpighia glabra. It is not really too dwarf (can grow to 9 feet), but if trimmed, makes a perfectly lovely low hedge. Texas A&M-Kingsville had the plant as a hedge lining many of the sidewalks around the University. This perennial likes full to partial sun, flowers from spring to fall with pink blooms, and has red berries. Aggie Horticulture says it has very high heat tolerance and grows in alkaline soil. The fruit is edible. Of course, deer, birds, raccoons and coyotes also like the fruit. My Barbados cherry stays right at five feet without trimming, and, in spite of the fact that it is native to south Texas and parts south, has never frozen.

Barbados cherry has many other common names including wild crape myrtle, acerola, manzanita and xocatatl. It attracts and is a larval host to many butterflies including brown banded skipper, white-patched skipper, Florida Duskywing, and cassius blue according to Wildflower.org.

Q3: I would like to take cuttings of some of my neighbor’s plants. Assuming he says yes, when can I do this?

A3: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, active stems from perennial and annual flowers and young stems of shrubs and trees can be rooted anytime during the growing season. This time of year, our growing season is slowing down or is over. However, dormant woody stems of shrubs, perennials and trees are best rooted right now. It is important to get the stems well rooted before spring with its first spring growth, and before the heat of summer hits.

Speaking of shrubs, as you think about your spring garden, plan to put in some Texas native plants instead of the exotics that have dominated our landscapes for so long. Welsh’s list for our area includes Texas natives Dwarf Yaupon Holly, Rosemary, Agarita, Cenizo or Texas Sage, Cherry Laurel, Possumhaw Holly, Texas Mountain Laurel, Texas Persimmon, Wax Myrtle, and Yaupon Holly. Looking at the list, I see that I am growing seven out of the ten. Now where can I put those other three plants?

November 2017:

Q1: I understand that we need to cut our tropical milkweed back. When should I do this and why?

A1: Tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) is the milkweed most commonly sold around here. This Mexican native is blooming right now and, unless we have a freeze, will continue to do so. So why would we want to cut it back? There are studies reported by Monarch Joint Venture showing that letting Monarchs breed during the winter (instead of flying to Mexico) allows greater transmission of the protozoan Ophryocystis elektroscirrha (OE). Consumption of the OE spores could keep Monarchs from emerging from the pupal stage, or even if the Monarch was able to emerge, the butterfly would not be normal but live a shorter life.

There are other reasons to not allow winter breeding in our area. First, of course, is the risk of OE. Second, larva could eat the plants to the ground and other larval hosts would not be available. Third, freezes could occur leaving no food or nectar available for the Monarchs (like my house at 19 degrees this past January). Even allowing for the fact that the experts don’t completely agree, we should cut our tropical milkweed back now close to the ground. If you want to save a plant for the spring, pot up a small one, and bring it indoors. Or you could make cuttings to get a start on spring.

Q2: What kind of oak is that?

A2: I get this question quite a bit when I am out on the trail. Luckily Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center just published a few hints to differentiate between different varieties of Central Texas oaks. The Bur Oak to me is one of the easiest to identify when it has acorns because they are so big. It also has the largest leaves of all oaks around here, with deep sinuses between the lobes. The tree can grow to 100 feet tall.

Leaf lobes on the Blackjack Oak have bristles or points on the tips (and the Center adds that the veins resemble a chicken foot). The bark of the tree is black, especially toward the base of the tree. The tree is much smaller, growing less than 40 feet. The White Shin Oak usually grows in thickets, with trees less than 30 feet tall. The leaves are small, narrow, with a wavy look to the lobes. Post Oak leaves often resemble a cross, according to the Center. This is a tall tree growing to 50 feet with real straight trunks like a “post”. Escarpment Live Oaks have dark bark, glossy leaves and tiny acorns.

Q3: What do I do with plumaria for the winter?

A3: AggieHorticulture tells us that plumaria will drop its leaves when temperatures go below 50 degrees and should be stored in a greenhouse or inside for the winter. Water Garden Gems says to water sparingly near the end of the summer season. Once the plant goes dormant, don’t water. If your plumaria can be moved, dig it up or move the pot indoors. Water Garden Gems says they dig theirs up and bare root them, then place them in the greenhouse for the winter. Plumaria can be replanted at the end of March when it doesn’t look like there will be any more freezes.

October 2017:

Q1: I am really getting tired of my Mexican Feather Grass because it spreads so much. If you had to choose one grass for me to plant, what would it be and why?

A1: My favorite grass is Gulf (or Coastal) muhly, particularly this time of year. There is nothing prettier in the fall than a big bed of Gulf muhly with the sun shining on the pink fuzzy seed heads. This perennial grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris), a Texas native, grows from one to three feet tall in many types of soils: sandy, sandy loam, clayey soil and rocky soils. It likes sun, low to medium water use, and blooms in October. It is highly deer resistant and can be propagated from seed. Lady Bird Wildflower Center says to collect the seed in November when the flowers start to lose the pink color by using a comb.

Q2: What can I do with my fallen leaves this fall? I would like to do better than just throwing them in the trash.

A2: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac lists four possibilities. First, simply mow your lawn with a mulching mower leaving the leaves in place. This is the simplest if you only have a few small trees. Second, use the leaves to mulch with in vegetable gardens, around flowers and shrubs, and under and around trees. These leaves can be shredded with a lawn mower first, or can just be used straight.

Third: many vegetable gardeners use leaves in the furrows or walkways between the rows in their garden. Then the following year, the mulched walkway becomes the plant row. And fourth, till the leaves into the soil during the fall where they can decompose before you plant in the spring. I can add a fifth possibility: bring a few bags my way, or take them to one of the many community gardens in our area.

Q3: Don’t you usually tell us to do something with basil this time of year?

A3: Before the first freeze, pick a cutting or two of basil and put it in a glass of water on your window sill. It will root and you will have leaves for flavoring all winter. (You could do this with your mint also.)

Q4: What can I plant now?

A4: Many cool season crops can be planted now, including beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, collards, lettuce, kale, mustard greens, radishes, spinach, sugar snap pea, Swiss chard, and turnips. Cool season annuals include Johnny jump ups, pansy, snapdragon, sweet pea, stock and viola. Calvin Finch lists blue mistflower and lantana as butterfly blooming plants for October. Also, both my Asclepius tuberosa and my Asclepius curassivica is blooming, along with my patch of goldenrod.

September 2017:

Q1: I am so enjoying my neighbor’s American Beautyberry bush. I would like to plant one also, so will you please tell me more about the plant?

A1: I also enjoy the plant. The berries on mine are beginning to turn purple and are quite striking. I remembered to water it this summer, so it looks pretty good. Callicarpa Americana is deciduous, with purple berries in the late summer, fall and winter.  These berries attract cardinals, mockingbirds, and other birds. The plant is moderately deer resistant, but not in high deer areas. American Beautyberry is one of the plants that Kathleen Scott puts on her “Bird Gardening Plant List.”

Another plant on her list that you might like also has fall and spring berries and a lovely slight fragrance. In fact, my Dwarf Barbados Cherry (Malphigia glabra, also called wild crape myrtle) is blooming as I write and is covered in honey bees. It is drought tolerant and is one of my plants that I never water. Scott notes that it needs to be fenced from deer. The Texas A&M site adds that deer like the leaves, while birds, raccoons, and coyotes like the fruit. This plant is a perennial although if the temperature gets cold enough, it could freeze. (My outdoor thermometer said 19 degrees this past January, and my plant did fine).

Q2: When is it time to plant wildflowers?

A2: If you are planting seed, do it now. Be sure to purchase fresh seed from this year’s crop (which means you need a reliable source). Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, recommends one-fourth pound of seed per 500 square feet. Till lightly so that the seed will make good contact with the soil. Tamp in with your feet or a roller. During the fall and winter keep weeds out of your patch. Remember next spring to leave the dead blooms and plants until mid-June when all the flowers die before you cut the plants down. This gives time for the seeds to fall back onto the patch. I usually put red flags around my patch to keep it from being mowed early (and so that everyone realizes why I’m not mowing my grass).

There are a few things to remember: plant in full sun; don’t overwater (bluebonnets like good drainage); don’t fertilize. Over the winter when it rains you will notice bluebonnet rosettes appearing. When bluebonnet transplants appear in the local nurseries, remember to plant them so that the crown of the transplant is just above the soil surface.

Q3: When is it time to fertilize my lawn?

A3: Welsh reminds us that we should not apply fall fertilizer until our lawns of Bermuda, St. Augustine, and zoysia have stopped growing. This, of course, depends on where you live in Texas. In some parts of the state, this could be as late as November.

FYI: Calvin Finch reminds us that September bloomers are purple coneflower, vitex, and pentas.

August 2017:

Q1:  My crape myrtle looked really bad last year. I had an arborist friend check it and she agreed with me that it should come out. I never got around to it, and this year the tree looks great. What happened?

A1: Perhaps the nitrogen fertilizer helped, as well as the extra water. Be thankful, because those trunks on your ten year old crape myrtle are truly beautiful. Last year I quoted Doug Welsh who said to remove the old blooms on the crape myrtle to prevent setting of seed and to extend the blooming period. However, in an Express News article some months ago, Neil Sperry says that deadheading will not speed up the formation of additional flower heads. He says that most crape myrtles bloom at least two times per season, and some of the early flowering ones may bloom up to four times in a season.

Q2: When is rose pruning time? My bushes look pretty bad.

A2: In mid-August prune your bushes back about twenty-five percent. Also, fertilize with straight nitrogen. Water thoroughly, and don’t forget to mulch. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests that these steps will give you a profusion of fall rose blooms.

Q3: We seem to be in a drought situation at my house. Everything looks really dry. I don’t want to lose my trees. What does A&M suggest?

A3: In an Earth Kind article called Tree and Shrub Irrigation during a Drought, Doug Welsh says to water trees and large shrubs just inside and a little beyond the “dripline.” This is where the feeding root system is located. He suggests laying a slowly running hose on the ground and moving it around the dripline as the area becomes saturated to a depth of eight to ten inches. If we don’t get a good rainfall, do this type of watering twice a month.

Q4: I’ve lost several hackberry trees this summer and want to put in something that will grow and last. I know that tree planting season is September to December, so I want to start thinking about what to plant. Are there suggested trees for this area?

A4:  San Antonio’s Extension Agent David Rodriguez recommends live oaks, Monterrey or Mexican white oak, Texas red oak, and Texas redbud. Austin’s Extension Agent Skip Richter adds several other oaks, including chinquapin, lace bark, and lacey oak. I personally am growing Monterrey, live oak, red oak, and cedar elm. Doug Welsh suggests staggering the ages of your planted trees, otherwise they will all grow old and die at the same time. I am facing this now with my hackberry trees. I’ve lost two this week alone.

Q5: Is it time to plant fall tomatoes?

A5: Definitely. Remember that tomatoes need 90 days to set fruit. Pumpkins can be started now. For your information: Calvin Finch’s butterfly flowers blooming in August are milkweed, pavonia, and cosmos.

July 2017:

Q1:  Calylophus along the roadsides is absolutely beautiful, as are the plants in my neighbor’s yard. What is wrong with the calylophus in the Pollinator Garden?

A1: Calylophus berlandieri (also called Square-bud primrose or Sundrops) has lovely two inch showy, yellow flowers. The plant is bushy and according to Lady Bird Wildflower Center is an excellent rock garden plant.  “Native and Adapted Landscape Plants: an Earthwise guide for Central Texas” lists Calylophus with a Very Low water requirement. Since the plants in the pollinator garden have just been planted, they are still being watered several times a week until they get established. This is evidently too much water for a plant that likes good drainage and is only watered occasionally under very dry conditions. I do not water mine at all, and it is in a bed on the south side of my house. Irrigation is now being adjusted for the park’s calylophus.

Q2:  I am going on vacation. What can I do about my plants?

A2: Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac gives several suggestions. Water thoroughly before you leave. If you have an automatic watering system, or drip irrigation on a timer, you are ready to go.  If you have outside container plants, than you need the good will of a neighbor as the plants will need watering at least every third day. Group the containers together to make it easier on that neighbor.

Mow before you leave, but do not set the mower blade lower. Otherwise you will have a scalped and sun scalded lawn. Just make arrangements with that same neighbor to mow one week later. If you are able to, weed and mulch before you leave also. Remember that mulching reduces the soil temperature and helps preserve water in the soil.

If you have houseplants, move them outside in a shady spot where the neighbor can reach them easily when he or she waters your container plants. Welsh also suggests putting your houseplants in the bathtub and watering heavily. Since they are together in a very humid area, they probably can last a week. Personally, I have little margarine containers filled with water under each plant with a cotton wick running from the inside of the pot down into the container.

Q3:  I am sure you’ve answered this question before, but I did not make a list. What plants are deer resistant?

A3:  Remember that anything will be eaten if the deer’s other preferred foods are not available. Also, young trees and plants are tender and tasty, whereas some older plants of the same variety are not as attractive. Normally, most herbs are deer resistant. Resistant shrubs include agarita, autumn sage, Cenizo, dwarf yaupon, evergreen sumac, juniper, native lantanas, Mexican buckeye, oleander, pomegranate, and wax myrtle. Flowers include Artemisia, black-eyed Susan, Blackfoot daisy, bluebonnet, Copper Canyon daisy, coreopsis, cosmos, Damianita, Esperanza, Firebush, indigo spires, iris, larkspur, periwinkle, purple coneflower, rock rose, rosemary, skullcap, society garlic, Turk’s cap, verbena and zinnia.

June 2017:

Q1: I want color in my landscape, but I want something that birds and pollinators can use. I’ve been looking at the new pollinator garden at Park West. What can I plant in my yard?

A1: Color is all over Seguin this spring. I just went out and looked at my Esperanza (Tacoma stans) which is in full bloom and covered with bees. If you want a lovely perennial which blooms from spring to fall, plant this shrub. It grows from 3 to 5 feet both wide and tall. The plant does freeze in the winter, but comes back every spring. Annuals could include periwinkle, cosmos, and marigolds, although there are two schools of thought on marigolds. One source says marigolds detract bees and other insects; another source says bees really like marigolds.

All kinds of salvias are part of Park West’s garden: Autumn Sage and Tropical Sage are red, while Mealy Blue Sage, Big Blue Sage, and Henry Duelberg Sage are indigo and purple. Autumn blooms from spring through frost, Tropical blooms from late spring to fall, Mealy Blue is a spring and summer bloomer. Big Blue and Henry Duelberg bloom from September to November. If you plant all these different varieties of salvia, you will have nectar plants almost all year for butterflies and hummingbirds. Big Blue attracts our native long-tongued bees and is the host plant for the Hermit Sphinx Moth.

Another plant in the pollinator garden is the Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) which is one of my favorites. It is blooming now and will keep on till October. To prolong the blooming period, deadhead the old flowers. It is a host plant for Silvery Checkerspot and Bordered Patch butterflies, and a nectar plant for the Checkered Skipper. Other perennials that would be good for your yard include Firebush (Hamelia patens), Flame Acanthus, Butterfly Milkweed, lantana, and Gregg’s Mistflower.

Q2: I want more birds coming to my yard. Other than birdfeeders, what can I do?

A2: Birds need food, water, shelter and places for rearing their young. I have many more birds in my backyard since I added more water sources. I have four bird baths which I change daily (to keep out mosquito larvae). I also have two waterlily ponds (with mosquito fish). The ponds are behind a fence to keep out the raccoons, and small birds love to perch on the wire before flying down for a drink. My bird baths are used by many small animals as two of them are on the ground (another reason for changing them daily). I have a pair of blue jays who come in daily to bathe and drink. In the early evening, dove fly in. Insecticides should be avoided if possible for both birds and pollinators. Do not spray with broad-spectrum pesticides.

Q3: My bluebonnets have finished blooming and have set seed. What should I do now?

A3: Lady Bird Wildflower Center has several suggestions. Do not fertilize or spray the patch. Mow to keep the grasses and weeds at bay. Do not bury your wildflower patch in mulch (this goes for all wildflowers). Most seeds can germinate through a light layer of mulch, but the Center does not recommend mulching areas where you want reseeding.

May 2017:

Q1: I was very unhappy with my Indian Hawthorne shrubs because they seemed to have a virus, so I took them all out. What shrub can I put in their place that will do better here in Seguin?

A1: The Native Plant Society suggests using natives instead of exotics since they do better in our climate, and the following are considered bird and butterfly habitat plants. If you want a short evergreen shrub, plant dwarf yaupon holly or dwarf wax myrtle. For a taller evergreen shrub, you could plant the full size yaupon holly or wax myrtle. Deciduous alternatives include American beautyberry, fragrant sumac, buttonbush, Turk’s cap, and Texas lantana. This is also the answer for those of you who still have ligustrum or privet.

Other larger shrubs include Carolina cherry laurel, elderberry, Texas acacia, strawberry bush, Carolina buckthorn, flame leaf sumac, and two viburnums, rusty blackhaw and arrow wood.

Q2: My Bradford pear did not come through the winter very well. It did not bloom and just looks ratty. Is there a nice native tree that I could plant that would also bloom in the spring?

A2: There are several. The Texas redbud is a good looking small tree which many of us have in our yards. Another 15 to 35 foot tall tree is the Bigtree or Mexican plum. It has a single trunk, and, according to the Lady Bird Wildflower Center, does not sucker. In the spring, fragrant white flowers appear before the leaves. There is one out in a field near Vogel elementary that is really showy every spring. After the flowers, the tree has edible plums which ripen from July through September.

The Mexican plum is a perennial deciduous tree with a low water requirement and can be grown in sun or part shade. It is cold tolerant and puts up with most soils (sandy, clay, limestone based). Lady Bird Wildflower Center suggests using the tree as an accent tree, although it also is a “wildlife” tree as it attracts birds, bees, and mammals. The tree is a larval host for the Tiger Swallowtail butterfly and for Cecropia moths. It is of special value to native bees. Sadly enough, it is not deer resistant.

Q3: A lady at the grocery store gave me a recipe for homemade insecticide. She said it was very effective in killing insects on her plants. What do you think?

A3: I’m not much on homemade insecticides. There is so much you don’t know about them, such as toxicity. Remember, nicotine is natural, yet is highly toxic. I thought I would cough forever when I accidently inhaled a pepper spray someone had worked up as a garden spray. There are many natural pesticides available that are safer for you to use. I have recommended Neem oil, Spinosad, and Orange oil in the past, as well as insecticidal soap sprays. Remember that with anything you use, read the label, wear gloves, and wear a mask if you are apprehensive about inhaling the mist.

April 2017:

Q1: Is there an organic method to kill fire ants?

A1: According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, yes, there is. He says that for a two-step program that uses only organic products, one should broadcast spinosad bait, and then treat the individual mounds with products containing d-limonene, pyrethrins, rotenone, or spinosad.

Q2: Why can’t I grow grass under my trees?

A2: Grass requires sun. St. Augustine is the most shade-tolerant turf grass. If it won’t grow, then consider mulching the area or growing a groundcover. If you are going to grow a groundcover, be careful not to damage the root system of the tree. More than six inches of soil added under the tree can smother tree roots.

Q3: I have fertilized my lawn. Now how high should I keep the lawn?

A3: Mowing height depends on the type of grass you have. Common Bermuda can be kept one to three inches high, while St. Augustine grass should be three to four inches high. Some of my friends have Buffalo grass which can be five to six inches tall. Please use a mulching mower and leave your grass clippings in place to provide nutrients to the soil. Remember that mowing height affects how deep roots grow. Welsh reminds us that taller grass-growing heights develop root systems that withstand drought better.

Q4: What herbs can I grow now?

A4: Many herbs can be started from seed, and many are available in four-inch pots at the nursery. Basil is an easily grown herb that likes warmer temperatures. Several varieties can be found locally. Dill is a lovely annual that is easily grown from seed. Once you have dill in your garden, it will usually come up every year. Many types of mint are available. My suggestion is to grow it in a pot so that it won’t take over the garden. Parsley is a pretty herb and is a biennial. However, Ann McCormick, the Herb ‘n Cowgirl, says that it only grows flavorful leaves the first year. She suggests planting annually. Oregano is a perennial herb that likes morning sun. Sage and thyme grow well for me. In fact, these herbs (along with purple coneflower and goldenrod) fill one bed. Rosemary can be found as an upright shrub, or as a trailing one. It is ornamental as well as extremely useful as a seasoning or as a sachet. Sweet bay laurel can grow eight to fifteen feet tall, although could freeze if the temperature dips too low for over twelve hours. Mine had no ill effects from the 19 degrees we had here in January.

Two herbs, both perennial around here, grow in many local gardens. Mexican mint marigold (Tagetes lucida) is an anise substitute as well as being really pretty with yellow flowers in the fall. It is drought and heat tolerant. Mexican oregano (Poliomintha longiflora) is a substitute for real oregano. It flowers all summer with pink and white tubular blooms.

March 2017:

Q1: Now that it is spring, can I go ahead and fertilize my lawn?

A1: Wait to fertilize until you have mowed the lawn twice. This way you know that the grass is actually growing and is ready to use the fertilizer. My lawn has already been mowed in order to mulch the leaves from my Monterrey oak (although only weeds were growing so that doesn’t count).

Have you had a soil test done on your yard lately? Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, recommends one every three years. This way you know exactly what type of fertilizer to buy. A soil test packet, which can be gotten from our Guadalupe County AgriLife extension agent, is very easy to use.

Q2: I have a Mexican lime in a large pot that seems quite thoroughly frozen. What shall I do? What else should I be doing in my garden?

A2: Right now I am playing the same waiting game to see if either of my large outdoor pot plants will come back. Welsh suggests that for severely freeze-damaged perennial flowers and shrubs, it may be best to let new growth begin, and then prune off all dead wood above the fresh new growth. I think that my lime is quite dead, however. Remember that we may still get another freeze. Be prepared to cover, and to move your tomato plants inside (mine are in one gallon pots in the sun waiting for all danger of a late frost to be over).

Your fall-blooming perennials and your ornamental grasses can be divided now. All of my grasses (Mexican feather and Gulf Muhly) have started sprouting so I can cut back the dead foliage. Your spring annuals can be planted (although something promptly ate my new petunias to the ground).

Look around our local nurseries to see all the spring flowering shrubs. Now when you can see the blooms is the time to pick out new shrubs for your landscape. The Native Plant Society recommends planting a Moon Garden to give you a romantic nightscape in your yard. The native plants in such a garden include Cenizo with its lovely silver leaves, Blackfoot Daisy with white blooms and a light scent, Mealy Blue Sage with upright pale blue and white flowers, and the groundcover Silver Ponyfoot. These native plants are suited to our area and are drought tolerant.

If you have not finished pruning, do it now. Start early on weed removal. I walk my lawn every morning looking for sandspurs so that I can remove them before they get too big.

Make sure you remember the birds and bees in your spring planning. Clean your birdbaths and make sure you have plants that provide food for the wildlife in your neighborhood such as milkweed, salvia, Turks cap, Echinacea, verbena, lantana, flame acanthus, and Gregg’s mistflower.

February 2017:

Q1: You have mentioned before how important mulch is in the landscape. How do I know what to buy and how much?

A1: First of all, if you are like me, bagged mulches are easier to handle rather than buying in bulk (although probably more expensive). For our Central Texas area we need to mulch about two inches deep according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. Depth of the mulch depends on the density of the mulch (whether it is fine textured or coarse textured). Fine textured mulches in half inch particles, such as compost, cypress bark, pea gravel, shredded pine bark, should be two inches in our area. Whereas medium textured mulches, such as composted cotton bur hulls, hardwood mulch and wood chips in ¾ to one inch particles, can be three inches deep. Coarse textured mulches like pine bark and lava rock can be even deeper.

So, how much should you buy. Multiply the area that you want covered by the depth of mulch in feet. Then divide by the number of cubic feet in the bag. Welsh’s example uses 1000 square feet times 2/12 or .167 (the two inches expressed in feet) which is 167 cubic feet. He divides that by 2 (the number of cubic feet in your bag) and gets 84 bags of mulch needed.

Q2: At the Master Gardener meeting the other night, the speaker mentioned a native plant that will grow and bloom in the shade, a Rouge Plant or Rivina humilis. Please tell me a little about it.

A2: You probably know it under a different name: Pigeonberry. Wildflower.org says it is a member of the pokeweed family. This perennial plant grows under trees and shrubs to about one foot tall, sometimes reaching three feet. I’ve seen it wild under the trees at Starcke Park. The white to pink flowers are one-fourth inch across and grow on the last three inches of the stems. The red to orange berries are favorites of birds. The plant blooms from March to October, with flowers and fruit sometimes on the plant at the same time. The plant is deciduous.

Pigeonberry is called the Rouge plant because the red fruits have been used for cosmetics. Please do not eat either the fruit or the leaves because they are toxic. The plant is moderately deer resistant. You can propagate the plant by both seeds and cuttings according to the Lady Bird site.

Q3: When can I plant my vegetable garden?

A3:  Now, but plant in pots that can be moved inside in the event of another freeze. Buy your vegetable six packs, and place each individual plant in a one gallon pot. By the time the weather warms up, you will have giant plants to put in the ground. Our last freeze varies. According to the freeze charts, it is anywhere from March 7 to March 16. I don’t have a record for the last two years, but our last freeze in 2011 and 2012 was February 13 and February 12, and in 2013 was March 6 when it got down to 29 at my house.

January 2017:

Q1:  I have already pruned the frozen branches from my shrubs and plants. Then a local Master Gardener told me it was too early. Obviously, I can’t put them back. So for next year, what is the reasoning behind not pruning until later?

A1: The main reason for not pruning until later in the spring is that we may still have more freezes. The damaged plant material actually provides some insulation for healthy plant tissue. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac feels that pruning is best done in February or March. An Internet site in northern California, farmerfred.com, gives a more definitive answer: Don’t prune off the dead portions until nighttime temperatures are above the lowest temperatures for the plant in question. Another reason for leaving plant material is that wildlife can use it for cover. Farmerfred reminds us to keep our garden and potted plants moist. Water gives off heat, and damp soil retains heat better than dry soil, protecting roots and warming the air near the soil.

If you really cannot stand being idle this time of year, clean your flower beds by pulling weeds and removing debris such as fallen leaves, flowers and twigs. This debris, according to Welsh, may harbor plant disease or insect pests, so put it in the trash.

Your living Christmas tree should be outside by now, adapting to the outdoors. After a week or so, go ahead and plant it. New trees and bare root roses should also be planted now. Last time I was at the local nursery they had bluebonnet seedlings. Plant them now.

Q2: Can I prune my fruit trees now?

A2: Wait till February. Use this time to get your tools together and sharpened. Tools that are useful to the home gardener include hand pruning shears (both scissor action and anvil cut), lopping shears, hedge shears, pruning saws, and pole pruners. I have an electric chain saw and a long pole electric chain saw but I’m afraid to use them and make my son do that when he comes to visit.

Q3: I would like to make some New Year’s Resolutions about my yard and garden. Do you have suggestions?

A3: My main resolutions for you concern water and its conservation: Water the lawn only when it needs it (and never during the day, out in the street, or on the driveway and sidewalk). Mulch all flower beds, shrubs, and vegetable gardens to conserve water and moderate soil temperatures.

Other resolutions could include caring for local birds and animals: Plant a bird or butterfly friendly plant and keep bird baths refreshed daily (while watching for mosquito larvae).

My last suggestions are for the environment: Use pesticides only when absolutely necessary (and the least toxic one). Plant a tree for your grandchildren and for their grandchildren.

December 2016:

Q1: Can cranberries be grown in Guadalupe County?

A1: No, not really. According to the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers Association, the evergreen cranberry vine needs a cool region of the country, sandy, acid soil with organic matter, as well as a water table that is 12 to 18 inches below ground. In the cool areas of the United States and Canada, the plants grow wild along streams and in swampy areas. In Cape Cod this spring I talked to a commercial cranberry grower who told me about some of the problems growers face, including the Sparganothis Fruit Worm, with each worm able to destroy a half dozen cranberries. I asked Mr. Angley whether a lot of pesticide is sprayed on the cranberries we eat. He assured me that the growers try to limit chemical pesticides and are developing non chemical methods to control pests. This is particularly important for him because he brings in hives of bees each year to pollinate the fruit.

If you would like to grow a fruit like the cranberry, you might be interested in something that as a child, I was told was a Florida Cranberry. That is the Roselle, a member of the hibiscus family from West Africa. Hibiscus sabdariffa or Florida Cranberry is an annual around here because it is damaged by frosts or freezes. I grew it a couple of years ago and it is a really pretty plant with attractive foliage that reaches a height of seven feet. The bottom of each flower, the calyx, is what people in the far south used as a replacement for cranberries. The calyces can be chopped and used as a sauce in place of cranberries. Plant in the spring, and by fall the plants will begin to bloom. By October or November the calyces can be harvested. The University of Florida says that one plant will produce twelve pounds of fruit. Root knot nematodes are a problem with Roselle which is why I can’t grow the plant anymore.

Q2: What kind of living Christmas tree should I buy this year?

A2: Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac lists a dozen different trees along with the area of the state where each tree will do best. Two trees, the Deodar cedar and the Eastern red cedar, will grow throughout Texas. The Eldarica pine can grow in South and Central Texas, and the Italian stone pine, Leyland cypress, and Nellie R. Stevens holly will grow in Central Texas. This should give you some choices when you go out to buy your tree. Try to find a tree that is below a 15 gallon pot size. Remember that someone has to lift it. Place the tree in the brightest natural light available in your house. Check the soil daily for moisture because winter central heat can dry out the plant quickly. The Christmas tree needs to be back outside within two to three weeks, and planted in the ground right away. This gives your tree time to put on more roots before spring growth and summer heat.

November 2016:

Q1:  I just fertilized my lawn and read somewhere that my dog or cat can be poisoned by the fertilizer. Is this so?

A1: According to an article by Jerry Parsons in aggie-horticulture, it is rare but possible to poison animals with lawn chemicals. He says, however, that if the chemicals are diluted and applied correctly, there won’t be a problem. (Birds might eat the granules for seeds.) Cats would be more susceptible than dogs because they groom themselves and don’t handle insecticides as well. If you already have flea collars, or use flea dips, than fertilizers might add just too much. Parsons gives a number of ways to avoid poisoning: If pets are in the yard, don’t apply pesticides. Keep pets out of the yard until the applied chemical is dry. Make sure that feeding bowls, water dishes and bird baths are covered or turned over. If your fertilizer is in granules, water in thoroughly; don’t make run-off puddles from which an animal could drink. Don’t apply insecticides near bird feeders.

There are also many Texas plants that are poisonous to both animals and humans. Remember as you decorate with mistletoe this holiday season that both children and adults have died from eating mistletoe berries. If you have house pets or small children, perhaps this is the year to change mistletoe decorations to plastic. Ingestion of holly and yaupon berries causes nausea and vomiting. Other plants to be careful with around your yard are Jimson weed, nightshade, yew trees, and castor bean. Poinsettias should not be eaten, but sources such as the Mayo Clinic say they are less toxic than once believed. WebMD says you would need to eat about 500 leaves to cause a major problem. However, as with everything else, certain individuals might be particularly susceptible. My best advice is to only eat plants you know are meant to be eaten. If you suspect your pet has been poisoned, call your local vet, or the National Poison Control Center (1-800-222-1222).

Q2:  When can I root roses and other woody stemmed plants?

A2: Now is the time of the year. Dormant woody stems from shrubs and trees, and woody stems of perennials are best rooted during the fall and winter says Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. This is because the stems need to be well rooted before spring when leaf growth starts and the weather gets warm. Last year I rooted Martha Gonzalez rose cuttings and one of the plants is now growing in my son’s front yard.

Using a sharp knife, take pencil length and pencil diameter cuttings. Cut the bottom end at a 45 degree angle and dip the end in rooting hormone. Remove the bottom leaves and carefully place in a container of good potting soil. Firm the soil around the cutting. Water lightly. Welsh suggests using the bottom of a 2 liter soda bottle (bottom side up) as a greenhouse over the cutting. Placing the pot in a clear plastic bag also works if you use sticks to hold it off of the cutting. Place in bright light but not direct sun. I placed mine under the eaves. If moisture accumulates in the bag, open the bag to air it out a little. Then just wait for your new plant.

October 2016:

Q1: A cold front is coming and I worry about my plants. What should I be doing?

A1: It’s been a couple of years since I kept track of freezes, but in 2013 the first freeze was in December. If you have tomato and pepper plants in your garden and a freeze or near freeze is forecast, you can cover them with a light under the cover, or just go ahead and pick the fruit. Tomatoes can be kept in the garage and will continue turning red. What you can be doing now is watering and mulching.

Be thinking about where you are going to keep your tropical plants. I will move mine (plumaria, bonsai, ficus, and bougainvillea) onto the porch where I can cover them when a freeze is imminent. Some citrus, such as satsumas, are okay in the yard uncovered as long as the temperature doesn’t go below 26 degrees F. Warm season annuals are ready to be taken out now and replaced with cool season annuals such as alyssum, calendulas, dianthus, pansy, snapdragons, stock, sweet peas, viola, and flowering kale.

Q2: What can I do with my leaves?

A2: If you don’t have a composting mower, and instead rake and bag your leaves, you might contact one of the community gardens. They will be thrilled (particularly if you deliver). Many people do not know that fallen leaves contain 50 to 80 percent of the nutrients a plant extracts from the soil and air during the growing season, according to Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac. To conserve this “free fertilizer” for yourself, use the leaves as a mulch in your vegetable gardens, in your flower and shrub beds, under your hedges and around your trees. Think about the forest. Nobody fertilizes it, yet the fallen leaves decompose and release their nutrients so that the trees can utilize them. To help the leaves decompose faster, you can run over them with your lawn mower and catch them with your bagging attachment before using them as a mulch.

Q3: I need to transplant my flame acanthus so that it will receive more sun. When can I do this?

A3: The best time to transplant shrubs and trees is when they are the most dormant, which for us is in the late winter. Welsh suggests hiring a professional to do the job if the shrub is over 4 feet tall or the tree has a trunk diameter of more than three fourths of an inch. Otherwise the root-ball is too big and heavy for you to handle. For smaller plants, you need to cut with a sharpshooter a 16 to 20 inch circle around the plant, each cut being 12 inches deep. Space each cut one width of the shovel apart. This leaves some roots uncut. The cut roots will grow new roots inside the circle during the winter which will help the odds of your plant surviving. In late December or January finish cutting. Then move the cylinder of plant and soil to your already dug hole in the new spot.

Q4: I want plants with fall leaf color and winter berries. When do I choose them?

A4: Visit the nurseries this time of year so that you can see the colors available. Keep a list.

September 2016:

Q1: This is in regard to last month’s comments about crape myrtles. Neil Sperry in his column in the Express-News said not to deadhead, whereas you quoted Doug Welsh who said it would help extend the blooming period. Comment?

A1: As we all know, experts can disagree. Both horticulturists have crape myrtle experience, so you can make up your own mind. Without any deadheading or pruning at all most of my crape myrtles bloom all summer.

Q2: Is it time to plant wildflower seed for spring bloom?

A2: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that September is the time to plant. Be sure to check the seed packet when you buy to make sure it is this year’s crop. You can also check your local nursery for transplants. Bluebonnets, gaillardia and mealy cup sage can usually be found. Many of our local gardeners have already had bluebonnets come up in their yard. I am sure all of this wonderful August rain has contributed to the sprouting. Welsh says to purchase a wildflower mix that is good for your area. He recommends one-fourth pound of seeds per 500 square feet in order to achieve maximum color. When the seed is planted, it must contact the soil. Till the soil lightly, sprinkle the seed, then tamp the seed down with a roller or your feet. Then water to settle everything. If we have no September rain, water the area lightly once a week. Don’t forget: after spring bloom, leave the plants alone to set seed. They will be ugly and your neighbors will probably complain. Nevertheless, leave them alone till all the flowers die and the seedpods look dry.

When reading over the wildflower section by Doug Welsh, I was surprised to see that Texas has six state flowers that are all bluebonnet species. The one we usually see is Lupinus texensis which is native to Central Texas. I grew up in Florida with L. perennis, a perennial bluebonnet native from Florida to East Texas. I can remember my mother cautioning me to stay away from the plants because rattlesnakes liked to nest under them. When you are growing bluebonnets, plant in full sun, don’t overwater, and don’t fertilize. Six colors of bluebonnets have been isolated and are available to gardeners: blue, white, pink, sky blue, lavender blue, and maroon.

Q3: My big box store is getting in their spring-flowering bulbs. Isn’t this just a little early for them to be planted?

A3: Yes, it is too early to plant. However, buy them now while they are fresh and firm with no blemishes. Store in the refrigerator. Then plant when the soil cools down, from November to January. Usually we plant these as annuals; however, I have one little snowdrop that comes up and blooms every spring for the past ten years. I don’t even remember planting it. Welsh says that for repeat bloom, some daffodil varieties are more likely to naturalize in Texas. These include narcissus, jonquils, and the medium and large flowered varieties of daffodils. Plant your bulbs about 6 inches deep (two times the height of the bulb). Avoid deep shade and fertilize.

August 2016:

Q1: One of my crape myrtles is not doing as well as the others.  It is in a flower bed in front of my house and I hate to lose it because the five bare trunks look so striking.

A1:  Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac has a large section on crape myrtles.  One paragraph stood out:  “for planting in flower and shrub beds, amend the soil with organic matter—the more the better. For planting single plants in hedges, in alleys, or as shade trees, no soil preparation is recommended.”  I infer from this that whatever else is in your bed is competing with the crape myrtle for nutrients. Therefore you should add organic matter and that should take care of the problem. 

Remember: if you want bloom, plant crape myrtles in full sun.  When you buy crape myrtles, buy mildew resistant varieties.  Also, be sure to check the mature size of the plant you buy.  If you only want a small tree or shrub size, do not buy a Red Rocket. Mine is way over 20 feet.  There are five different size variations: miniature grows from two to three feet, dwarf grows three to six feet, semi-dwarf grows five to 12 feet, large shrub/small tree grows from 10 to 20 feet, and tree grows over 20 feet.  When you buy the wrong size crape myrtle and try to make it fit a certain spot, you end up having to prune and top the tree which ruins its natural structure and symmetry.  Around here, we call that “crape murder.”  There are things you can do, according to Doug Welsh. Prune off the suckers that come up around the trunk. Deadhead the plants of their old blooms so that you can extend the blooming period. Don’t cut a branch that is over a half inch in diameter unless you cut it all the way back to its beginning. Remove dead, dying, or damaged branches as well as competing branches.

Q2: What is the webbing all over the trunk of my olive tree? What do I do about it?

A2:  Several sites including wildflower.org and aggie-horticulture say that the tree has Webbing Bark Lice or Archipsocus nomas which is not harmful to the tree. The bark lice are feeding on fungi, lichens, molds and other debris on the trunk under the web.  The web is just something they use to protect themselves from wind and rain and predators. You don’t need to use insecticides. Instead, think of the bark lice as “trunk cleaners.” If you really don’t want the webbing, remove it with a high pressure spray of water.

Remember that I am not talking about web worms. Web worms are up in the tree around the leaves. When you see them forming, break the web with a fishing pole or long stick so that wasps can get in and feed on the larvae.

Q3: When do I start preparing my rose bushes for fall bloom?

A3:  In mid-August prune back hybrid and old fashioned roses by about 25 percent. Feed the plants with a nitrogen product around the drip line. Water thoroughly after you prune and fertilize.  Add mulch.

July 2016:

Q1: I was busy this spring.  Is there anything I can plant now?

A1: If you want vegetables, you can still plant okra. Eggplant, pepper and tomato transplants can be put in from July 1 to July 25. Pumpkins can be planted July 10 through August 1, cabbage from July 10 through September 10, and winter squash can be planted July 10 through August 10. For a nice container garden, you might mix autumn sage, zinnias, lantana and purslane. This suggestion by Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac combines different sizes and shapes (spikes, daisy type, pincushion type, and tubular) for a pleasing summer grouping of plants.

In our butterfly garden this month, sunflowers and vinca are blooming. And when I went to a garage sale this morning, their entire patio cover was full of blooming passionflower vine.

Q2: Now that my bluebonnets and other wildflowers have gone to seed and been mowed, is there something I should be doing for next year?

A2: In reading an article on wildflowers to answer your question, I notice that bluebonnets don’t like to share space. So when they come up this winter, be sure to weed and keep other wildflowers out of the same space. Now that this season is over, you should be mowing to keep grasses from dominating the space.

Do not fertilize, or use insecticides or fungicides. These plants are accustomed to growing in this climate and soil. If you mulch, use only a light layer so that the seeds will be able to germinate through the mulch.

One final point I noticed in the article. Don’t cover the wildflower area in your lawn with winter rye this winter. Winter rye is slightly allelopathic and can keep other seeds from germinating.

Q: The heat is here, and I’m going on vacation. Do you have suggestions?

A: Water thoroughly before you go. Group your container plants so that it is easier for your neighbor to water (maybe hire a neighborhood kid who needs spending money). Mow before you leave, but not so short that it burns while you are gone. Weed, prune, mulch and do an insect check. These are Doug Welsh’s suggestions. If I did all this, I would be too tired to go. Make sure that any harvest you have is picked before you go, or is promised to the neighbor watching out for your garden. Make sure your houseplants are watered. I have two spathiphylum that take two weeks to dry out, so I water them the day before I leave. If the plants can stand the heat, take them outside in a shady spot so the neighbor can water them.

Q3: My pomegranates have fruit. How do I know when they are ripe?

A3: The fruit ripens six to seven months after flowering. It cannot be ripened off the tree. According to an article by Purdue University, the fruit makes a metallic sound when it is tapped. Do not pull off, but clip close to the base.

June 2016:

Q1: The city of Seguin has complained about my yard of native plants because the curbside plants are over 12 inches. What can I do?

A1: Luckily, there are a number of low-growing native plants and grasses. I have started growing buffalo grass. This grass grows from three to inches tall and you don’t need to mow. It does like full sun, but can take a little shade. It can be mowed and kept at about six inches. Plants that remain low include Blackfoot daisy, winecup, skullcap, calylophus and verbena.

Blackfoot daisy or (Melampodium leucanthum) is a lovely little plant that blooms with white flowers from March to November. According to the Wasowskis’ Native Texas Plants, with compost and watering the plant will grow to one foot tall and eighteen inches wide. In the wild, it stays around four inches tall and six inches wide. It has a wild honey scent. Don’t water too much. The winecup (or Callirhoe involucrate) grows from six to eight inches tall and has a wine-red flower. It only blooms from February to June. Make sure you have it planted with something else because after it blooms, the plant shrinks back down to small rosettes. Skullcap (Scutellaria) grows from six to eight inches tall and blooms from March to frost with a dark blue flower. It is very drought tolerant. Calylophus is a plant that you have seen along the roadside. As a massed planting in your garden, however, it is striking. Depending on the amount of water you give it, the plant will grow from twelve inches to eighteen inches. The yellow flowers open at sunset and are pollinated by moths. They stay open all of the next day and close shortly before new flowers open. My neighbor has it, and gave me a pot full. Verbena (Verbena bipinnatifida) is a short-lived perennial. However, it reseeds easily. The plant grows from six to twelve inches high with purple blooms. It likes full sun but a little shade is fine. Make sure you have good drainage.

Q2: With all the rain we got in May, it seems a little weird to worry about drought and summer watering. What can I do to prepare?

A2: First of all, you need to increase the height of your mower blades. Bermuda grass should be two inches tall, St. Augustine grass should be four inches, and Buffalo grass six inches tall. Keeping it this height decreases lawn water use and increases drought tolerance. Remember to water between sundown and sunrise when the wind and temperature are lower. When you water your lawn, apply one inch of water. I mention every year that a tuna fish or cat food can placed on the lawn when you sprinkle can help you determine the one inch of watering. Also, make sure that you mulch your shrubs and beds to help them retain water.

Q3: What are the choices for colorful heat tolerant flowers for my garden this month?

A3: In the butterfly garden, Calvin Finch says zinnias and plumbagos are June bloomers. Other June bloomers are periwinkles, portulaca, purslane, petunias, phlox, and salvias.

May 2016:

Q1: How can I mosquito proof my yard?

A1:  Many people forget about the “water holders” in their yard. Plant saucers need to be emptied after a rain, water features without fish need a biological mosquito control (Bacillus thuringiensis in a solid floating form), bird baths need to be emptied and refilled every day. And then there are those things you don’t think about, like old pots on their sides which hold just a little bit of water, that water gauge you don’t use any more but which still holds water, and the lawn furniture covers with a small pocket of water. Even high grass in your yard breeds mosquitoes.  This is the year that I screened in my back porch. And yesterday my son called and asked if I am using repellant when I go outside (I am).

Q2: How can I keep the birds off of my fruit this year?

A2:  I already have my blueberry bushes covered with bird netting and do this every year.  It works. Of course, my blueberries are shrub size. It is a lot harder to cover peach and fig trees. Keeping fruit trees pruned to a reasonable size helps later on when you need to cover.  I’ve given up worrying about my fig tree.  It always has enough fruit for me, two neighbors, and the mockingbirds.

Q3: Why isn’t my plant blooming? It has lovely green leaves but no blooms. It does seem to be a little leggy.

A3:   The answer to a question like this is usually too little sun. I was in the local nursery the other day and a man wanted to plant a certain plant in semi-shade.  He was told that he would have no blooms. A general rule of thumb is the following: If it fruits or blooms, the plant needs 6 to 8 hours of full sun. I have a flame acanthus that I have never seen bloom because it is planted in the shade of a hackberry.  Every year I plan to move it, but somehow it is still there. Maybe next spring.  (If you must move a plant, in the winter cut around the roots. Then in the spring lift the plant and put into its new sunny spot.)

Q4: What is blooming in the butterfly garden this month?

A4:   Calvin Finch’s list has passion vine and Fanick’s phlox blooming for May. My phlox have not opened yet but are getting ready to do so.  Salvia is still blooming and my tropical milkweed is in full bloom. Wild lantana is blooming, as is fall aster (must be because of all that rain). Local antelope horn milkweed is also blooming.

It is time to change out your cool season annuals to spring and summer annuals such as marigold, periwinkle, Penta, purslane, portulaca, salvia, amaranthus, gomphrena, begonia, cockscomb, cosmos, geranium, morning glory, petunia, sunflower, Mexican sunflower (tithonia), and zinnia.

April 2016:

Q1:  Should I apply weed and feed to my lawn now?

A1:  No. Your pre-emergent herbicides should already have been applied in February. Spring lawn fertilizer should be put out in mid spring after you’ve mowed twice.  Don’t use a combination product because each should be done at different dates. Remember that post emergent herbicides should not be used under the tree canopy or in shrub and flower beds.  The herbicide cannot tell the difference between weeds and trees or shrubs.

Q2:  I am starting a butterfly garden and understand that I need blooms every month of the year. What is in bloom the next couple of months?

A2: According to Calvin Finch, March blooming plants are verbena and coreopsis, April bloomers are Salvia greggii and Texas Gold columbine, and May bloomers are passion vine and Fanick’s phlox.

Q3:  I have dill everywhere. What can I do with it?

A3: Dill is a lovely annual herb that grows 24 to 36 inches tall.  Mine is already starting to put on seed heads. Harvest the side leaves and dry in the oven at low heat (under 180 degrees F. for two to four hours or in a food dryer. You can also dry them by hanging upside down in bunches in a dark, warm area (like the garage). Out of curiosity, I tried the microwave also. Place the leaves on a paper towel and microwave for one or two minutes, mixing every 30 seconds and checking for dryness. I use dried dill on my fish dishes during the year. Both leaves and seeds are good in salads, pickles, green beans and bread. By the way, once you plant dill, you won’t need to reseed. It takes care of itself.

Q4: Where can I buy milkweed seed? I tried all the local nurseries. They have Tropical Milkweed plants, but no seeds or plants for any of the other milkweeds.

A4:  Native American Seed out in Junction sells several different types of milkweed seeds, including Antelope Horns, Butterfly Weed, Common Milkweed, Green Milkweed, Showy Milkweed, and Swamp “Rose” Milkweed. On Earth Day in Seguin the Native Plant Society will have also milkweed for sale. If you have a friend with Tropical Milkweed, get a cutting and try rooting it in water.

Q5:  I have a field with milkweed and feel very strongly about saving the Monarch.  When can I mow, or should I mow?

A5:  For our area (around Seguin), you can mow before March 1 and after November 1.  Between May 10 and August 15, you can mow “if necessary.” You may kill monarchs, but supposedly most will have gone further north during this period. For this latitude, October 18 is the midpoint for peak migration moving south. Mow high and no more than twice a year.

March 2016:

Q1: I want some spring blooming shrubs. How can I be sure of what color I get?

A1: Buy them now while they are in bloom. This way, you see exactly what color the blooms are. As I write this, redbuds are open, agaritas are open, Carolina jessamine are open, and Texas mountain laurel are open (with that lovely smell blowing towards my house). Other spring bloomers soon to join in are Mexican buckeye, Mexican plum, Bradford pear, Texas wisteria, and the Lady Banksia rose.

Q2: I’ve heard so much about Rodeo tomatoes. What is the 2016 Rodeo tomato?

A2: The Rodeo tomato this year is Red Deuce. It is a determinate medium-to-large fruited Beefsteak slicing tomato. Red Deuce has resistance to Verticillium Wilt, Fusarium Wilt (1 and 2), Tobacco Mosaic Virus and Stemphylium. Red Deuce performs well in early and mid-season plantings, and the label calls it a “heat setting” tomato (which will be nice for us in Guadalupe County). The tomato has the potential for high yields of extra-large fruit, as much as 25 pounds per plant.

A side note from me about growing tomatoes: I have nematodes in my soil. Therefore, I have given up growing tomatoes in the ground. I put them in self-watering containers, or in large pots with new soil each year. Tomatoes like even watering, so self-watering containers work out well; and fresh soil does away with the nematode problem.

Q3: I really love iris and would like to talk one of my neighbors into giving me some. When is the proper time of year for dividing and replanting iris?

A3: September is the ideal time of the year for dividing and replanting iris. According to Pat Schultze, Guadalupe County’s “daylily” lady, iris and daylilies need to be divided and replanted at the opposite time of the year from when they bloom (thus, September). However, since this is March, bagged or potted iris could be planted now and will bloom next year. Remember, iris plants like sun. Those at the Guadalupe County Courthouse are in full bloom right now. They are that lovely “old parchment” color, old fashioned and beautiful.

Q4: I try to plant natives, but every once in a while I buy something that is non-native and likes a little more water. Is there something I can tell my friends when they fuss at me?

A4: Ann McCormick, the herb’n cowgirl, provides a short list of criterion that she uses for her own yard. First, the plant should not be harmful. Around here, some of the things that escape your yard are ligustrum, chinaberry, nandina, and, if you are on the river, elephant ear, bamboo, and water hyacinth. These plants crowd out useful natives, clog waterways, and become a nuisance. Second, the plant needs to provide a benefit to the owner, such as fruit trees, rosebushes, daylilies, iris, and other cut flowers. And third, the plant should provide some benefit to wildlife. Pick non-natives sensibly.

February 2016:

Q1:  What garden related present can I give my wife for Valentine’s Day?

A1:  A wonderful garden gift to me would be having someone else prune my rose bushes. I’m sure your wife will probably want to supervise (togetherness time) but having you do the manual labor will be welcome. If you do not feel confident in your pruning ability, how about buying her a lovely Texas Superstar rose such as Belinda’s Dream or Knock Out.

Q2:  Do I have to mulch, and when should I do it?

A2:  Mulching is really a good idea for many reasons. The main reason is water conservation, since mulched soil does not lose moisture as easily. Other reasons according to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac are the reduction of soil erosion from wind and rain, moderation of soil temperatures in both winter and summer, reduction of weed populations, and production of organic matter when the mulch decomposes. Mulch can also be aesthetically pleasing. I took out the sprawling juniper by my front door (where the snake lived) and put down mulch decorated with large rocks. Not only is it pretty, it also opened up the area which had seemed a bit claustrophobic.

Now is a good time to mulch. I have always been fond of cedar chips because I like the smell. Other possibilities are shredded bark, pine straw, chipped granite, lava rock, recycled chipped tires, and even little pieces of rounded glass. Mulch can be gotten free from the city, but I like to buy it in bags because it is easier for me to handle. Remember, if you are using non-organic materials such as rocks for mulch, you won’t have the added benefit of decomposing organic matter. There are several down sides to organic mulch: a heavy rain can wash it away, and organic mulch does break down and will need to be replenished every year (which, of course, is also a good thing).

Q3: Are there cool season annuals that can be planted now?

A3:  One of my favorite cool season annuals is the snapdragon. I have several pots out in front and am anxiously awaiting the first bloom. Other annuals for this season include larkspur, alyssum, calendula, dianthus, pansies (and the smaller version, violas), sweet peas and poppies. As an added bonus, many of these make good cut flowers, including the snapdragon, calendula and larkspur. Already blooming in my shade garden are violets. My grandchildren are thinking about making crystallized violets to decorate dessert plates. I don’t spray with insecticides so the blooms are quite edible.

Q4: What should I prune in late winter?

A4:  Welsh lists several shrubs that need pruning now to promote vigorous growth in the spring (thus resulting in more blooms), including althea, hydrangea, most roses, and lavender vitex.

January 2016:

Q1: I recently removed some Red Tip Photinia and would like to plant at least one rose bush in the same area.  What is your very favorite rose?

A1:  I change with time, but right now my favorite rose is a little dark green compact bush with dark red blooms called Martha Gonzales.  This bush is a china rose and was found by two “rose rustlers” in 1984 in front of Martha Gonzales’ house in Navasota, Texas. The flowers are flat singles with a slight spicy odor. My plant is about four feet tall and three feet wide, although everything I’ve read gives plant size as about three by three.  This heritage rose grows well in spite of me. It sits next to a hybrid rose (name unknown) that stays sick all the time and takes constant care.

When you plant your rosebush, remember the following guidelines as listed by Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac:  Give roses at least 6 hours of sun a day; choose an east-facing site if possible; and select a site with good air circulation. This will reduce insect infestations and diseases.  Roses can be planted almost year round, although summertime should be avoided. Now is a good time. To help the environment and keep down the spraying of pesticides, choose a heritage or a Texas Superstar rose rather than a rose which may get diseases or pests. Help yourself by putting in drip irrigation when you plant.  It saves you a lot of work moving the hose around.

Q2: I want to put in fruit trees. When is a good time? What do you suggest for Guadalupe County?

A2: Fruit trees should be appearing in local nurseries very shortly.  One of my favorite trees is the Celeste sugar fig. My tree supplies both me and my neighbors (and the birds and squirrels) with fruit. I have two pear trees. One is a Warren pear that I’ve had for nine years, and have maybe had nine pears in that length of time.  It is a pretty tree, however. The other pear is a Kieffer pear that I just put in this past year.  Hopefully it will do a little bit better. Another one of my trees is a Methley plum. It is usually covered with fruit, but also gets insects. Since I don’t like to spray for fear of killing butterflies, I don’t get a lot of usable fruit.

I also have a satsuma mandarin orange that does quite well. Aggie-horticulture says that it grows south of highway 90, which means us. I know of several people besides me who grow their satsumas in the ground rather than in a 20 gallon container.  Cold tolerance for satsumas is in the mid-20s. When it is going to be below 26 degrees, I cover my plant with a cold blanket. Again, as with all fruit, the plant needs eight to ten hours of sun a day.

Several of my neighbors grow pecans. There are lots of useful articles on the Aggie-horticulture web site about planting and caring for pecan trees, as well as other fruit and nut trees. The web site is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/.

December 2015: 

Q1: I would like a live Christmas tree that I can plant after the holidays. What should I get?

A1: There are a number of trees for our area around Seguin that can be used as living Christmas trees, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. This includes the Arizona cypress, Deodar cedar, Eastern red cedar, Eldarica pine, Italian stone pine, Leyland cypress, and the Nellie R. Stevens holly. With the holly, you wouldn’t need ornaments. You’d have red berries.

While researching the Leyland cypress, I found on the Clemson.edu website that overplanting of these trees led to problems that have multiplied every year. Seiridium canker, Botryosphaeria dieback and Cercosporidium needle blight are becoming more common, as well as bagworms and spider mites. Remember that this tree will grow to 70 feet tall and will be hard to treat when problems occur. In spite of this, I saw a beautiful Leyland cypress in La Vernia this past week that had been a living Christmas tree, then planted outside. Neil Sperry in his San Antonio garden column suggests using the Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) as a substitute if you like the look of the Leyland. It is also native to a large part of Texas.

I suggest that you stay away from the Aleppo pine. I bought one as a living tree twelve years ago and have had red spider problems ever since. It is absolutely enormous and not very pretty, although Calvin Finch thinks this a good tree for our area because it likes alkaline soil. Finch also recommends the Arizona cypress since it seems to be well adapted to our area. It grows to 30 feet tall with no insects or diseases. The Italian Stone Pine is also mentioned by Finch. He describes it as a short tree, 25 to 35 feet tall, with a thick trunk and an umbrella like crown.

Q2: Once I buy my live Christmas tree, how do I care for it before it is time to plant?

A2: While the tree is in your house, keep it in the brightest natural light possible. Keep the soil moist since your heater during the winter can dry everything out. Make sure that you have a large plant saucer under the pot to protect your floor or carpet. Don’t leave the tree in the house for longer than 2 to 3 weeks, then plant soon after Christmas so those plant roots have plenty of time to grow before our really hot weather in the summer.

Q3: Last year I saw an outdoor tree decorated with edible wildlife friendly ornaments. Suggest some and tell me how to make them.

A3: The easiest ornaments to make are to cross section apples and oranges and hang the sections on the tree with ribbons. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service website suggests stringing natural popcorn (no butter or salt), as well as stringing cranberries and draping them on the tree. Another ornament easy to make is a pinecone smeared with a peanut butter and oatmeal mixture, then rolled in bird seed. Hang up with a ribbon or twine. Don’t forget to keep your bird baths filled for our wildlife during the winter months.

November 2015: 

Q1: Some trees around town have fall colors.  What can I plant that will do well here in Seguin?

A: Doug Welsh, extension horticulturist, says that fall color in deciduous trees happens as the chlorophyll production slows in the fall and the existing chlorophyll in the leaf disintegrates. Then the other pigments show through. Everybody loves the Texas red oak with its red to yellow leaves. One of my favorite small trees (almost a tall shrub) is the Flameleaf sumac. Every year I see some small bright red shrubs on King St. in back of our big box store. The Fan-Tex ash and the Texas ash both have yellow leaves. Along the Guadalupe are lots of Bald cypress trees with rust to burgundy leaves. A nice landscape tree that will do well for you is the Cedar elm with yellow leaves.  And if you want berries in the fall, plant Yaupon, Possumhaw, American Beautyberry, and many different holly plants.

Q2: At the recent Guadalupe County Fair, my husband and I saw lots of herbs entered in the horticulture division.  What can I grow this time of year?

A: There are a number of cold tolerant herbs. Chives, cilantro (or coriander), dill, fennel, garlic, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage and thyme grow quite well here. I have a patch of oregano, one of thyme, and one of sage that are a number of years old. In the spring, I trim them with hedge clippers. I lost one of my rosemary plants this past spring as it was in a pot and drowned in all that rain we had. (Don’t overwater rosemary). Once you plant dill, you will usually have it returning year after year (and in strange spots).  I have not had any problems with growing mint, parsley, or lavender year round either.

The Texas Department of Agriculture has a very nice little booklet called “Go Texan Herbs. The Very Zest of Texas” in its Go Texan series.  It lists availability, producers, storage and handling, inside secrets, recipes, and the top seven Texas herbs. One of the hints that you may not know is that basil can be used to make your bath water smell good, as well as in sprigs to deter flies and mosquitoes.

Q3: I want to attract monarch butterflies to my garden and have been reading about the different types of milkweed. I see milkweed in the nurseries. How can I tell which kind it is?

A: What the nursery calls Tropical milkweed is actually Asclepias curassavica. Its leaves are opposite each other, and it has milky sap. Asclepias tuberosa, often called Butterfly Weed, is another milkweed that looks much like the Tropical. It has alternate leaves and no milky sap. Tropical milkweed fosters greater transmission of the protozoan Ophryocystis elektroscirrha (OE) according to Monarch Joint Venture out of the University of Minnesota. Monarchs who stay here in the winter feeding on tropical milkweed have a greater likelihood of becoming infected with the parasite.  Monarch Joint Venture and other monarch groups recommend that tropical milkweed should be cut back in the fall and winter months so that monarchs do not stay around.

October 2015:  

Q1 – It is October already. What do I do now? Is it too late to plant things?

You are in luck. Now is vegetable time!  Beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, turnips, cauliflower, peas, radishes, and carrots can be planted.  All of your favorite greens can be planted as well, like lettuces, kale, mustard, spinach, Swiss chard, collard, and turnip greens.

You also may be thinking about transplanting shrubs or trees now that the weather is cooling. I recently removed all of my invasive nandina. Now I want to move my shaded flame acanthus into the spot where the nandina was. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says to wait longer before you transplant.  In late winter cut three quarters of a circle around the plant with a sharpshooter shovel. In late December or January finish cutting your circle, dig a new hole where the shrub will go, then carefully move the plant without breaking the soil and place it in the hole.

Q2 – I was out in my garden and a single bee was taking nectar from my salvia.  I assume this is a bumblebee and would like to find out more about them.

A really good website about bumblebees in this area is texasbumblebees.com.  From looking at range maps, I am going to guess you have an American bumblebee, although we have nine species in Texas. If you are interested in pursuing more identification resources, texasbumblebees.com lists several other sites.

Bumblebees can be easily observed and don’t seem to mind people watching them; however, they can sting and can sting multiple times, unlike European honeybees. If you find a colony, leave it alone. Bumblebees visit and pollinate hundreds of native flowering plant species which maintains biodiversity. Bumblebees also make contributions to agriculture and have pollinated blueberries, cucumbers, peppers, pumpkins and watermelons.

Q3 – In my neighbor’s yard is a plant that looks much like a weed, although it has bright red leaves resembling a flower, sort of like a small poinsettia?  What is it?  Can I grow it here?

The plant you see blooming is Euphorbia cyathophora, or the Painted Poinsettia, or Fire on the Mountain, according to the Native Plant Society website.  Red parts on the plant are not flowers, but are bright orange-red bracts.  This, according to the website, is an annual, although I’ve had mine for almost two years.  It re-seeds freely and the capsules, when they burst open, throw the seeds.  If you have the plant in a rich flower bed, the plant may become weak.  Using it as a background plant will help hold it upright as it uses the other plants for support.

Q4 – I know you’ve mentioned fall fertilizing before.  When is the best time?

Doug Welsh says to monitor your mowing frequency.  When you don’t need to mow for two weeks, it is time to fertilize.  Usually in our area that is around October 15.  Your fertilizer in the fall should be high in nitrogen and potassium with little to no phosphorus.  Use one pound of nitrogen for 1000 square feet.  Fertilizing in the fall prolongs fall color, increases winter hardiness and promotes earlier spring green-up according to Welsh.

September 2015   [Note:  Ask a Master Gardener  answers from January to September 2015 were provided by Guadalupe County  Master Gardener Penny Wallace.]  

Q1:  About one month ago, I gave my Rockroses some fertilizer. They dropped the buds and shed about 30% of their leaves. I added ashes to lower the pH, but they continue to decline. The plants are about 11 years old. Any thoughts?

 A1:   A very experienced Master Gardener that I consulted told me that Rockroses are native plants that don’t need fertilizer, nor do they require a lower pH soil. They like our alkaline soil. She also said that the average Rockrose plant only lives a few years, so eleven year old plants are quite uncommon. You might consider digging up the old plants, adding some compost, and planting new plants later in the fall. It is too hot now for good root growth.

For those of us who are unfamiliar with Rockroses (me), I also consulted Native Texas Plants by Sally and Andy Wasowski. I learned that Rockrose or Pavonia is classified as a shrub, as it has a woody base and branches like a shrub. It doesn’t die back in the winter, unless it is unusually cold. It reproduces freely by seed. You should let a few seedlings survive each year to replace the mother plant, which has a short life span. The flowers are clear pink, numerous, open in the morning, and close in the afternoon. If desired, you can prune your Rockrose any time from February to October.

Q2:   What is the dark, sticky substance on my black-eyes peas?

A2:  It sounds like aphids have infested your plants. A heavy infestation can cause distorted growth, reduced growth, poor quality, lower yield, and can even kill the plants. The insects suck the sap out of the tender plants, shoots, and leaves. They secrete a sugary substance called honeydew, which attracts a dark fungus called sooty mold. This fungus is unsightly and stresses the plant by reducing the amount of sunlight reaching the leaves.

Sometimes, a heavy blast of water from the hose will knock the aphids off the plants. You can also spray them with insecticidal soap. Please know that more than one application will be needed. Once the honeydew-producing insects are suppressed, the sooty mold will gradually weather away. The sooty mold does not cause the black-eyed peas to be inedible. Just wash them with a solution of a mild soap and warm water before shelling them.

Q3:  My trailing rosemary and Lantana plants are about 2 years old and historically very healthy. Recently, the Lantana has failed to flower and has mottled leaves. The rosemary is less full and looks rather dry, even though I have it on a drip irrigation system. I have noticed some webs on the rosemary, but no spiders. Any ideas?

A3:  I suspect that you might have spider mites on your rosemary. Spider mites are very small – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Use a hose- end sprayer filled with water and a squirt of dish soap and spray the plants every few days.

Most likely, your Lantana is resting and you don’t need to do anything. My friend has several plants in his yard, and they have the same symptoms that yours have. Closely inspect the old blooms that are browning, and you’ll probably find some seeds. I expect the Lantana will bloom again later this fall.

August 2015   Q1:  Why are my container-grown cucumbers short and teardrop shaped, and why are the lower leaves turning yellow, then brown, and then dying off?

A1:  The teardrop shaped cucumbers result from poor pollination. The flower is partially pollinated, but not completely. The result is a normal stem, but a tapered point at the blossom end. No matter what, some fruit will not fully develop, but having a lot of not-fully-developed cucumbers is problematic.

Cucumbers and all the squash family of cucurbits rely on insect pollination. If you have sprayed for insects in your garden you may be inadvertently discouraging bees and other pollinators. Try to encourage bees with other plants that they like. Rosemary blooms throughout the winter in the south and encourages bees. Other plants that bees like can be found with an Internet search.

Another example of poor pollination occurs when corn is not planted in multiple rows. Corn is pollinated when the wind blows the pollen from one plant to the next, and poor pollination results in corncobs with missing kernels.

The lower leaves on your cucumber plants may be dying off due to spider mites. Spider mites require harsh chemicals to control. A friendlier method is to use a blast of water under the leaves, but moisture contributes to powdery mildew. In my garden, I grow the cucumber vines quickly in the spring to outrace the warm weather, which promotes these problems. I find it nearly impossible to keep cucumbers growing past the third week in June.   Last year, I had a heavy investigation of aphids – also heat-loving critters.

(Guadalupe County Master Gardeners would like to thank our friend, Lee Franzel, of Comal County for responding to the above inquiry.)

Q2:  Can you tell me the name of the weed growing in the shady areas of my yard and competing with my grass? It has very small yellow flowers and small rough leaves. 

A:  I expect that you are talking about horseherb (Calyptocarpus vialis).  Actually, horseherb is my new friend. It grows well in the shade, better than my St. Augustine. It requires very little water. It tolerates a moderate amount of foot traffic. It grows well in sand, loam, clay, or caliche. It is evergreen in the southern part of the state. In the colder parts of the state, it will go dormant in the winter and come back with warmer weather. It can grow to about 8 to 10 inches in height and does not mind if you mow it to a height of 2 to 4 inches.

I say we remove horseherb from the “lawn weed” category and call it an “easy-care, shade tolerant ground cover” for central Texas.

Q3: How do I get rid of the poison ivy growing in my trees? 
A:  If you are as allergic to the stuff as I am, you ought to find someone else to do the job. If not, I still recommend a long sleeve shirt, long pants, gloves, and skin protection such as Ivy Block.

Then…cut the vines six inches above the soil and spray them with glyphosate. Glyphosate will kill most anything you spray it on, so be selective. It should not harm the tree, but to be sure, you can wrap the trunk with aluminum foil. If you would rather not use glyphosate, you can use 20% vinegar combined with orange oil and dish soap. Additionally, there are several vine killers on the market, including one that contains triclopyr, a selective herbicide.

The vines will likely re-sprout several times. Keep spraying. Spot treat any new sprouts surrounding the vines. When they re-sprout, spray again. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, suggests that you might find anger management classes to be useful during this repetitive process.

Without question, you should carefully read the instructions and warnings regarding glyphosate, and any other herbicide, before use. 

June 2015   Q1: Why are the leaves on the bottoms of my tomato plants turning yellow?

 A:

1. It could be that the plants are getting too much water. This was a common result with the wonderful rains received in May. Be sure your plants are in an area with good drainage. Mix compost in the soil when planting.
2. On the other hand, it could be that the plants are getting too little water. Using a drip irrigation system is a good way to ensure that your plants get adequate and consistent amounts of water. Be sure to use good mulch, as well.
3. Your soil may be low in nitrogen. Nitrogen gives plants their dark green color. Yellow leaves may indicate a shortage of nitrogen. Additives are available at your local nursery. Be careful not to add too much nitrogen, or you will have beautiful green, bushy plants, and no fruit. You can send a sample of your soil to Texas A&M for analysis to be sure. Check with your local extension service for instructions.
4. It could be that you have lovely bushy plants that are preventing sunlight from reaching the lower branches. If this is the case, there is really no need for concern.
5. If you notice yellow leaves all over the plant, or if the yellowing is spreading, your plants may be victims of a disease. If unsure, you can clip off a piece of the affected plant and take it to your county extension agent for advice.

Q2:  How much water do my tomato plants need?

 A: The answer depends on the size and type of plant, as well as the soil, and of course, the weather. If you use a drip irrigation system, start by watering 2 to 3 hours every other day and adjust as necessary. You will want the soil to be moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Avoid allowing the top inch of soil to become dry.

 I don’t recommend a sprinkler, as it tends to waste water. However, if you choose to use a sprinkler, water early enough in the day so that the foliage dries before nightfall, or diseases may become a problem.

You will find that if you maintain a consistent and appropriate amount of water on your tomato plants, you will have fewer problems with blossom end rot or cracking of the fruit.

Q3:  I have some beautiful tomatoes this year. How do I go about saving the seeds?

 A: If your tomato plants are an open-pollinated (heirloom) variety, you certainly can save the seeds. If you save the seeds from a hybrid variety, you will not likely get the results you had the prior year.

If you choose to save the seeds, choose a healthy, robust fruit that is in its prime – not over-ripe. Cut it in half and scoop the seeds and gel into a bowl. Label the variety! Add 1/3 cup of water. Set the bowl in a dark location for 3 to 5 days. A film will develop over the top. Remove the film. Add more water and stir. The good seeds will sink. Pour off the water and repeat until the seeds are clean. Drain the seeds on a paper towel. Then place them in a single layer on a paper plate to dry. Once the seeds are dry, place them in an airtight container and store in a dark place at room temperature.

The seeds will remain viable for years. If you find that the fruits grown from these seeds don’t resemble their parents, it could be that the bees in your garden cross-pollinated the plants with other varieties that were grown nearby, creating a natural hybrid.

May 2015  Q1: How do I get rid of fire ants in my garden? What should I do if I have fire ants in my compost pile?

 A:  While most types of ants are harmless and even beneficial, the fire ant is a well-known pest in our area. This non-native ant has invaded the United States from South America and has spread to states as far north as Virginia and west to California. Most of us have been victim to the sharp sting that the fire ant inflicts, but it can also cause damage to our gardens by eating germinating seeds, tunneling into fruits and vegetables, and girdling young trees. Our gardens are prime targets during times of draught.

If you have only a few mounds to treat, I recommend drenching each mound with a solution of 1 ½ ounces of orange oil, 3 ounces of liquid dish soap, and one gallon of water. An ingredient in the orange oil (d-limonene) is toxic to ants and has been proven effective in studies at Texas A&M.

One home remedy for eliminating fire ants is to pour boiling water on the mound. This method has been shown effective in killing about 60% of the ants. Actually, if you don’t kill the queen, you just encourage more egg laying and therefore, more ants. Other home remedies such as aspartame, baking soda, cinnamon, club soda, coffee grounds, and grits failed to prove effective in studies conducted at Texas A&M.

If your problem is very widespread, you may need to broadcast fire ant bait. Baits containing spinosad are safe for use in vegetable gardens. Broadcasting should be done when the ants are foraging because they will collect the bait and take it back to the mound. To know when ants are foraging, drop a potato chip near a mound. Come back in a couple of hours. If the ants are enjoying the potato chip, they are foraging. Apply the pesticide during the late evening, night, or early morning to minimize the effect on bees. It may take several weeks before the ants are eliminated and future applications may be necessary. As always, follow the directions on the product that you purchase.

Broadcasting is discouraged in areas with fewer than 15 to 20 mounds per acre, as native ants may also be eliminated. Use the drench method instead.

If you have fire ants in your compost pile, keep stirring and watering the pile. The ants will eventually get annoyed and leave.

Q2:  Is it possible to plant a rubber tree outside? Where can I go to get information for planting and maintaining the rubber tree once it is planted?

 A:  The rubber tree is native to tropical areas. It makes a wonderful indoor plant here in south central Texas, but does not handle our winters well when planted outside. I tried moving my potted rubber tree outside several years ago. It did quite well, as long as I moved it indoors during the cooler weather. I did not try planting it in the ground, but a friend of mine did. He said that the plant froze to the ground each winter and did not grow back to its original health and beauty.

You can get more information on this topic at gardeningknowhow.com (Rubber Plant Information: Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors).

April 2015    Q1: How do I garden in a small space?

A:  For complete instructions, you simply must read All New Square Foot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew, or Google square foot gardening. A typical square foot garden is 4’ x 4’, allowing for 16 square feet of gardening space.   Your 4’ x 4’ box can be made from boards or cinder blocks, or you can buy a kit and assemble it. The box can be placed on the ground or built at a higher level (even placed on a table) to allow for less bending.

Each square can be planted with a different crop, and you can place 1,4,9, or 16 plants in each square, depending on the size of the plant. For example, you can plant one pepper plant per square, 4 lettuce plants, 9 spinach plants, or 16 carrots. Some very large plants, like squash will take more than one square. One square usually supplies enough food for one or two people throughout the growing season. Large families may need 6 squares of the same crop.

Besides saving space, this system saves time and effort. There is less weeding to do, less thinning, and no tilling. You will use no fertilizer because your soil is so rich and friable. Mel Bartholomew recommends 1/3 blended compost, 1/3 peat moss, and 1/3 Vermiculite, measured by volume. Your soil will not become compacted because you can walk around your box, reach all of your plants, and never walk on your soil. Crop rotation year to year is easy. Just plant your crops in different squares. Maybe best of all – you will use less water and waste fewer seeds with this gardening method.

You can even go vertical with your square foot garden by installing a vertical frame with nylon netting. This method accommodates vining crops such as cucumbers and pole beans very nicely.

Besides constructing square foot gardens, you can also garden in small spaces by using containers, planting vegetables in your flower beds, and trying some of the fancy “new” techniques that allow you to garden on a fence or wall.

Q2: How do I support melons that are grown vertically so that they don’t pull the vine off of the support?

A:  First of all, you can grow melons on the vertical structure that you attached to your square foot garden, or you can use other supports such as fences, hog wire, livestock panels, or lattice. You will need to train the vine to grow up the structure by carefully weaving the tendrils through your netting or wire and loosely tying the vines to the supports with a soft material such as hosiery cut into 1” strips.

Larger fruit, such as melons, will likely need additional support to ensure that the vine isn’t pulled off the structure (as mentioned by the questioner). I suggest making slings from an old pair of panty hose. Tie a knot about 8” from the toe and more knots up the leg, about 8” apart. Then cut 1” below each knot to make individual slings. Slip a sling over the fruit when it is tennis ball size, and then tie the sling to the trellis. For very large melons, you may want to use an old t-shirt or some type of mesh material to make slings.

March 2015   Q:   How do I rid my yard of grass burs?

A:  Grass burs (or sand burs) are summer annual grassy weeds that start germinating in late spring and continue germinating until late summer or early fall. The weed will continue to grow until the first freeze.

Grass burs grow best in sandy, poor, bare soil. A well-maintained turf does not have many grass burs. Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing create a dense turf that crowds out these weeds.

However, if these weeds are a problem for you, there are things that you can do to eliminate them as you work to improve your soil and turf over time. If you prefer organic solutions, as I do, spread corn gluten meal in early spring and late summer using a rotary spreader at a rate of twenty pounds per 1000 square feet of lawn. Water the area lightly after application to activate the corn gluten meal. This product not only helps knock out the noxious weeds by preventing germination, but also adds organic matter to the soil. It is safe for children and pets.

If you are not an organic gardener, you can shop for a pre-emergent herbicide labeled for grass bur control. You can expect to see that pendimethalin or oryzalin will be an ingredient. Please read and follow all instructions on the label. Apply by mid-March, or whenever the soil temperature reaches 52 degrees. Water the area after application. In heavily infested areas, you may want to reapply the herbicide every six weeks through September.

If your grass burs have already germinated, the previously mentioned remedies will not work. Your organic, natural choices include herbicidal soaps, citrus oil-based herbicides, and vinegar (acetic acid). All of these products are non-selective; that is, they kill weeds AND grass. If you choose vinegar, select a product with at least 20% acetic acid concentration. Caution: although acetic acid is considered a natural weed killer, it can still cause permanent eye damage and skin burns.

Another post-emergent option that is effective on grass burs is MSMA. Use this product if the weeds are young. Imazaquin (Image) is also effective. For best results, wait until the daytime temperatures reach 75 degrees. Note that MSMA may harm some turf grasses. Read the label.

If you have a light infestation of grass burs, I recommend a good weeding tool and a strong back. Digging up these weeds and discarding the stickers (seeds) will be your most effective option.

Once you rid your yard of these weeds, you need to fill the empty spaces with turf, or consider a reseeding program, if your grass is not hardy enough to fill the bare space.  If desirable grasses do not fill these spaces, the weeds will be back. Study your soil and environmental conditions to determine the reason for the sparse turf.

February 2015  Q:   When and how do I prune my rose bushes?

A.  My major pruning dates are Valentine’s Day (or a couple of weeks thereafter) and Labor Day, with the spring pruning being heavier than the fall pruning. Pruning improves air circulation, helps control the size and shape of the plant, and promotes vigorous blooming.

Tools needed include scissor type pruners (the anvil type will crush tender branches), large loppers, and possibly a pruning saw. Make sure your tools are sharp and that you use heavy leather gloves for the process. I keep a solution of equal parts bleach and water handy to sanitize my tools between cuts, thereby reducing the chance of spreading disease.

Cut off all branches that are smaller in diameter than a pencil. Remove large canes growing in the center of the plant. Remove any branches that are growing cross-wise or toward the center of the plant. Trim branches just above dormant buds that face the outside of the bush so that new growth will be outward. Make 45-degree cuts. Remove the foliage.

Your end result will be a vase-shaped plant that is about 18 inches to 24 inches tall, has 4 -8 canes, and is open in the center. Remove old debris around the plant, as it may harbor insects or disease.

During the summer, you will only need to remove any diseased foliage or canes and to deadhead the faded flowers by cutting the stems just above the first leaf with five leaflets.

Fall pruning is much lighter. Remove twiggy growth along with crossing or dead canes. All foliage is left on the bush at this time.

Q.  Can I grow roses organically?

Yes, you can, although it is helpful if you select varieties that are resistant to black spot and powdery mildew in the first place; such as, certain tough hybrids and most of the antique roses.

To fertilize, you can use a watering can containing one tablespoon of Epsom salt and/or ¼ cup of alfalfa meal per gallon of water. Mulch bare soil with alfalfa hay or shredded hardwood bark. For ongoing maintenance, spray the foliage every two weeks with a mixture of fish emulsion and seaweed.

At the first sign of black spot or powdery mildew, spray with a solution of four teaspoons of baking soda and one teaspoon of dish soap per gallon of water. Spray lightly every three days.

January 2015  Q:   How do I keep the deer out of my garden?

A:  Deer are beautiful to watch, but they can do a great deal of damage to a garden.  In fact, a deer eats approximately 6 to 10 pounds of forage per day.  They are particularly attracted to smooth, flavorful, moisture-rich plants; such as, lettuce, beans, pansies, roses, daylilies, hibiscus, and fruit.

Since lists seem to be quite in vogue these days, I’ll provide 10 tips for protecting your plants from deer damage.

1. Plant deer resistant plants; such as, Texas mountain laurel, Texas persimmon, agarita, autumn sage, Texas sage, lantana, cactus, gulf mulhy, black-eyed Susan, blackfoot daisy, esperanza, and mealy cup/blue sage.  You can find a more complete list by searching the internet.

2. Keep the plants that deer love most close to your house.  Although you cannot maintain 100% vigilance, your general activity around the house may discourage the deer.  (maybe)

3. Make your garden less appetizing to deer.  Add strongly scented herbs; such as, garlic, chives, and mint to your garden in the hopes of masking the aroma of the more appealing plants.  Include plants with fuzzy or thorny textures.

4. Fence your garden.  You will need a fence about 8 feet high that does not have gaps greater than 6 inches.

5. Use repellents obtained from your local nursery.  Rotate brands because the deer will become accustomed to one brand, making it ineffective. Reapply after rainfall.

6. Use home remedies.  Some hang fabric softener strips or bars of soap from trees.  Some use garlic, rotten egg mixtures, or bags of hair and blood meal.

7. Scare them away.  Use yard art with movable parts, wind chimes, or motion lights.  Try noise, such as a radio tuned to the static between stations.  Search the internet for a product that has a motion sensor connected to a water sprinkler.  When the deer approaches, the sprinkler sprays water for about 10 seconds.  Get a dog.

8. String nylon fishing line around the beds about 2 to 3 feet above the ground.  This clear and tightly strung barrier creates confusion, causing the deer to flee.

9. Cage young trees until they are too tall for deer to reach the leaves or fruit.

10. Avoid anything toxic.  We want to prevent the wildlife from destroying our gardens, but at the same time, we don’t want to harm them.  Likewise, we don’t want pets or family to be victim to poisonous substances.

Since disclaimers are also in vogue these days, I provide these disclaimers.
1. Not all deer have the same taste.
2. Tactics should be rotated because deer learn to ignore them.
3. Although some plants are deer resistant, many are still attractive when young and tender.
4. Hungry deer will eat almost anything.
5. If all tactics fail, take up photography instead of gardening.

Dec. 2014 Q & A:  Does pruning promote Oak Wilt? What can I do with all the leaves?

Q: Should I prune my oak trees? I am concerned about oak wilt.

A: Of course you will want to prune your oak trees for all of the reasons that people prune trees: the limbs are threatening to cause harm to your property (roof); there are weak limbs that will eventually break off causing more harm to the tree; there are dead or damaged branches that need to be removed.

You are also right to be concerned about oak wilt. Oak wilt is one of the most devastating tree diseases in the United States, and it is rampant in central Texas, causing leaf discoloration, wilt, defoliation, and eventually death of the tree.

All oaks are susceptible to oak wilt, but the most susceptible are red oaks, Spanish oaks, and blackjack oaks. White oaks (post oaks, bur oaks, and chinkapin oaks) are more resistant to the disease. Live oaks are somewhat susceptible, but are the most greatly affected due to their interconnected root system which allows the spread of the fungus. Besides spreading via the root system, the disease can be spread from infected trees to healthy ones by insect vectors and by man as infected wood is moved from one location to anther. Management of oak wilt consists of painting tree wounds, removing diseased trees, destroying infected wood, and digging trenches to disrupt root connections.

I know I’ve given you the long answer. The short answer is – if you do prune your oak trees, paint the wounds and do NOT prune them during the months of February to June.

Q: What do I do with all of these leaves in my yard?

A: The best thing to do with the leaves is to mow and mulch them into your turf. If you have an excess, they can be crushed and added to flower beds or the garden. Additionally, the leaves can be shredded and added to the compost pile. You can shred the leaves by running over them with a lawn mower or putting them in bags and crushing them. I invested in a leaf blower that reverses to a vacuum and shreds the leaves into an attached bag. It takes a while, but it is a good way to collect those leaves that are in hard to reach places, and it shreds them nicely.

If you end up with too many leaves in your compost (as compared to green material), you can add some dry molasses to speed the breakdown of the leaves. Another option is to save some crushed leaves in bags for use throughout the summer. Some people merely add the non-crushed leaves to a wire or wooden bin and wait patiently for the leaves to break down over time.

Whatever you decide, please do not send your leaves to the landfill or burn them. If you cannot find a use for all of your leaves, one of your friends or neighbors surely can. (I suggest you ask them first – don’t just blow the leaves onto their yards)!

Nov. 2014 Q & A: Can I grow asparagus in our area? What’s eating holes in my broccoli?

Q: Does asparagus grow well in south central Texas?

A:  Yes, it does, but it is a process.

You should purchase crowns (one-year old root systems) when they become available in your local nursery, usually in late January or February.  Plant them in deep, loose soil with good drainage in an area that gets full sun.  The ferns can grow to 4 or 5 feet tall, so you might want to plant them on the north side of the garden to prevent shading of other plants.  A raised bed that is 4 feet wide and at least 12 inches deep is ideal.  Top the bed with 3 to 4 inches of organic material and mix in barnyard fertilizer at the rate of one-half pound per square foot.   Dig a planting trench 8 to 10 inches deep.  Place the crowns in the trench and cover with soil.  As the plants grow, gradually fill the trench with soil.

For the first two years, allow the plants to grow a ferny foliage.  On the third year, you can begin to harvest the spears for about 4 weeks.  When the spears begin to diminish in size, allow them to grow into their ferny form.  In subsequent years, the harvest period may be a couple of weeks longer, but you should always allow a few spears to grow into foliage so that energy can be restored to the roots in preparation for the next year’s crop.  Remove the tops after the foliage is killed by the first hard freeze by cutting the stalks near ground level.  Mound some soil over the stubs to protect the roots.

Although asparagus generally grows better in north Texas than in the south, if you pick a good spot in the garden, apply about 1 inch of water per week during the growing season, and apply a nitrogen fertilizer prior to the emergence of spears,  you should be able to harvest asparagus for up to 10 years from the same crowns.

Q: Something is eating holes in my broccoli leaves.  What can I do about it?

A: I know what you mean!  I had a heavy infestation of cabbage loopers on my broccoli this year, and I bet that is what is eating your leaves, especially if you are seeing a web-like result.  Look for light green caterpillars on your plants.  They can be up 2 inches long and have 2 white lines down their backs.  They crawl in a manner similar to inch worms.  The adult version of the cabbage looper is a gray-brown mottled moth with a wing span of about 1-1/2 inches.  They are attracted by the light.

At any rate, these caterpillars feed on broccoli, as well as other cole crops, such as lettuce, cabbage, and spinach.  They can be managed by use of Bt (Bacillus Thuringiensis) spray, an insecticide that will not harm beneficial insects.  Spray the leaves in the evening and every week until the pests are eliminated.

Hopefully, your plants will survive.  Mine are questionable, as those hungry worms were very busy while I was vacationing in Port A.

Oct. 2014 Q & A: Why doesn’t my Christmas cactus bloom? Can I propagate my Christmas Cactus?

Q: Why doesn’t my Christmas Cactus bloom?

 A: There are three possible scenarios:

1. You may not be giving it the right amount of water.  Christmas cactus is a tropical cactus, not a desert cactus.  If the soil is allowed to dry out completely, it will drop its buds.  On the other hand, soggy feet will have the same effect.  Water your Christmas cactus when the top one inch of soil is dry to the touch.
2. It may not be getting the right amount of light.  Christmas cactus sets buds when day and night lengths are about equal, and night length means complete darkness with no artificial light.  If you are unable to provide this environment, you may need to place a box over the plant for 12 hours each night to ensure complete darkness.
3. The temperature may be too hot or too cold.  The best chance for bloom formation occurs in the 58 degree to 65 degree range.

Some people grow their Christmas cactus indoors, taking care to provide draft-free indirect light during the day, complete darkness at night, and the proper cool temperature.  I have found that our South Central Texas environment is often quite conducive to growing the plant outside.  Just be sure that there is not a porch light or street light shining on it at night, and bring it indoors before the first frost.  Buds should already be visible by this time, so the indoor artificial light will not prevent blooming.  Good luck (and hope for cool fall temperatures).

Q: How do I propagate my Christmas cactus?

A:  A good time to prune your Christmas cactus is one month after blooming, or you can wait until new growth starts in the spring.  Each pruned section that contains two or three of the jointed segments can be propagated.  Allow each segment to dry for several hours.  Fill three-inch pots with a soil made up of one part potting soil, two parts compost, and one part perlite.  Push the plants into the soil, allowing one-half of the first segment to be below the soil line.  In about four to six weeks, the cuttings should be rooted and showing new growth.  After the plants have grown one new segment, you can fertilize them with a 20-20-20 fertilizer.  Plants should be fertilized two to four times per year, ceasing by the end of October.

In the meantime, your pruned parent plant should be branching out nicely.  If you choose to transplant your Christmas cactus, do so in March or April, taking care not to jostle the plant excessively, as the segments are delicate and will break off.  But never fear, broken segments mean more transplants!

Sept. 2014 Q & A: Fall Vegetable Garden, Spider Mites

Q: I would like to plant my fall vegetable garden. When do I plant seeds?

A: In the San Antonio area, according to Dr. Jerry Parsons and David Rodriguez, many seeds can be planted this month. From now till about the middle or end of September, you can plant beans, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard, collards, garlic (cloves), kohlrabi, peas, potatoes, and summer squash. Of course, if you buy transplants, you can plant later. The seed of beets, carrots, lettuce, mustard, onion, parsley, radish, spinach, and turnip can be planted into October, with turnips and radishes planted into November. If you would like a list of recommended vegetable varieties and planting dates for both spring and fall, Contact Us!

Q: I really would like a big vegetable garden, but do not have the time or energy to keep up with one. What can I do?

A: Aside from adding a few containers on your patio for smaller vegetables, why don’t you put some of your cool-season vegetables in your flowerbed as ornamentals? Cabbage, kale, leaf lettuce, spinach, cilantro and other herbs look very attractive in the landscape and, of course, can be eaten.

Q: I have spider mites on a bush near my vegetable garden. What can I do to keep them from getting on my newly planted tomatoes?

A: Spider mites are bad this year because of our hot dry weather. If it were not so hot, I would first spray the spider mite infested bush with insecticidal soap. However, remember that insecticidal soap can burn or stress plants if used in full sun or when the temperature is high. A better thing to try in this heat is to spray with a high-pressure water spray. Also spray your tomatoes with a high-pressure water spray (not so high that you tear the tomato to shreds). This will also keep the dust off your plants. As always, cleanliness is important. Make sure there are no weeds or old vegetation from the spring still left in your fall garden. This is important since spider adults over winter in vegetation. If you can, maintain adequate soil moisture.

August 2014 Q & A: Finding Space for Growing Tomatoes

Q: I really don’t have a space to plant a vegetable garden but I sure like the flavor of homegrown tomatoes. What can I do? A: Almost anywhere—a patio, a balcony, a doorstep, a windowsill, near the pool or the hot tub—is a good spot for vegetables grown in a container. There are many advantages to growing in a container. One is mobility. The container can be moved to follow the sun. It can also be moved inside in case of a freeze or can be more easily covered. Another advantage is the height of the container. The other evening I took photos of a house surrounded by vegetables in containers. The gardener told me that he could be watering one pot while weeding another. If you have children, each child could be responsible for taking care of his or her own “vegetable garden.” Another advantage is that it is easier to find pests and eliminate them with a container that can be seen from all sides. Soil borne diseases and poor soil conditions are not as prevalent since you should fill your container with a growing medium that is free of plant disease organisms and weed seeds. A nice soil mixture (suggested by Dr. Masabni of Texas A&M) can be made up of equal parts of peat moss or compost, pasteurized soil, and vermiculite or perlite. Then add composted cow manure as a nutrient source. Almost anything can be used as a container: clay or plastic pots, wash tubs, wooden planters, hanging baskets, old half barrels, bushel baskets, even old stock tanks. Be sure there are drainage holes in the container and place one-inch coarse gravel or broken clay pot pieces in the bottom for better drainage. Many types of crops are suitable for containers: beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, onions, parsley, peppers, radishes, spinach, summer squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Proper watering is essential when you have a container garden, but proper drainage is also essential. If the soil becomes soggy, plants will die from lack of oxygen. There are several hints that tell you there is poor drainage and excessive water: the plants yellow from the bottom and they wilt although it may seem like sufficient water is present. After your seeds germinate and the plants emerge, you can use either time-release or water-soluble fertilizer following the application directions on the label. Enjoy eating your homegrown vegetables. For more information go to aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu on the Internet.

July 2014 Q & A: Chiggers! Gardening through the Golden Years

Q: My back yard is full of chiggers. I am getting bitten when I go out to garden. What can I do?

A: On the Texas A& M web site under “chiggers,” I found a number of articles. One article said that chigger infestations are less common in maintained turf grass and landscape environments. The article went on to say that keeping grass cut short and vegetation well trimmed can raise soil temperatures and lower humidity enough to make lawns less hospitable to chiggers. Also, wild animals can help sustain chiggers in your backyard. Remember that fireants eat ticks and chiggers. I suppose this means that we should not eradicate our fireants around the house completely. Lawns can be covered in dusting sulfur although one person has told me that this did not help. To keep chiggers off of you, spray with a repellant (read the label of your mosquito repellent and see if it will also keep chiggers off) and wear loose clothing. Tuck your long pants into your boots. Do not lie down or sit on the ground. Immediately after exposure to chiggers, make sure you take a hot soapy bath to kill and remove the larvae. Your clothes should also be washed. An antiseptic can be put on the welts. Try as hard as you can to keep from scratching.

Q: I’m getting older and less able to handle a large garden. Do you have suggestions for the older gardener?

A: Actually, there is a book out called “Gardening through your Golden Years” by Jim Wilson in which he interviews older gardeners to get their views. One person says he uses long handled tools. Another gardens in raised beds. Another gardener worried about getting injured so got rid of all his power tools – the chain saw, the lawn tractor, the edger, and the lawn mower – and just hires someone to do the heavy work. And then there is the opposite: the man who used getting older as an excuse to buy fancy power equipment to make his life easier – a garden tractor, a better wheelbarrow, a front end loader. I can tell you what I’ve done. I’ve bought garden tools with easy to grip handles and cutters that spring open by themselves after each cut. My lopper has compound levers to multiply the force. I also use kneepads when working on a bed. A friend of mine bought one of those wheeled garden seats. I work in the morning or early evening and try to stay in the shade. I wear my hat, sunscreen, drink plenty of water, and know my limitations. At the first comment from my back or my wrists, I stop and do something else. I’ve already discovered that my arthritis does not like the vibration of the weed eater. Listen to your body and you will be gardening for years to come.

June 2014 Q & A:  Zucchini and Squash Vine Borer

Q:  I planted zucchini this year because of all the comments about its productivity.  Out of nine plants, four succumbed to squash borer.  Help!

A: I don’t know if I’m really the one to answer this.  I have a terrible time growing squash.  Basically the squash vine borer starts as a “clear wing” moth who lays eggs on the plant near the base.  After hatching from the eggs, the larvae penetrate the plant stem and burrow toward the base.  There they feed which destroys the inside of the stem and causes the plant to die.  I’ve always been told that you can cut open the stem, remove the larva, and pile soil up over the cut; however, by the time I find the problem, the plant is already wilted and gone. On the Internet, aggie-horticulture says that there is much variation in the susceptibility of squash and pumpkin varieties, and lists hubbard as being highly susceptible.  Another website, the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html), lists twelve squash with their degrees of resistance to squash vine borer attack. Butternut and green striped cushaw have the most resistance, then summer crookneck and Dickenson pumpkin, then acorn and white bush scallop, then zucchini, small sugar pumpkin, Connecticut field pumpkin, golden delicious (hubbard type), Boston marrow (hubbard type), and finally, with the least resistance, blue hubbard.  So, this means that you can actually try to be more selective in the type of squash you plant. Next, keep the ground under the squash plant free from mulch so that bugs won’t live there or overwinter. Several biological methods to cut down on borers are suggested.  The first is to keep the eggs off of your plants.  (Squash vine borer eggs are disk-shaped and dark-reddish-brown; they are laid singly on the plant near the base.)  There is a suggestion in some of the literature that planting later in the season also helps with a borer infestation.  Another suggestion that really works for pest management is to use row covers over your baby plants.  Of course, the cover would need to come off for pollination.  Diatomaceous earth dusted on the stems is the next level of protection; the use of neem oil could be the next step. Aggie-Horticulture lists the use of pyrethrins as a spray.  Remember to read, understand and follow the label; read the precautions.  Although pyrethrins come from the chrysanthemum, the spray is toxic to bees.  Be very careful; if you or your pets get sprayed, it is still a poison and can result in a variety of symptoms.  What it does to the insect is to inhibit cellular respiration primarily in nerve and muscle cells causing death.  This is why I usually do not put poisons on my plants, or if I do, I use the least lethal, wear gloves, don’t breathe in, and, of course, read the label and use the proper precautions.

May 2014 Q & A: How Do I Start a Compost Pile?

Q: I would love to start a compost pile but am afraid that I would do it all wrong. Help!

A: Let’s look at what compost really is. Compost is a dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling form of organic matter that has been through a decomposition process. It can be used to enrich and loosen the soil. Also, if you have sandy soils, compost can help retain moisture and nutrients. Aggie-horticulture says that the word “compost” comes from the Latin verb meaning to put together. So composting involves putting together a mixture of different organic materials to form humus. First, you should find a spot in your yard where a compost pile will be out of the way. (My husband prefers that our pile also be out of sight.) If the pile is in the sun, it will decompose faster. If it is in the shade, it will remain moist longer. You do not have to have a structure. The decomposing material can just be placed in a pile on the ground. Or, you could build a wire cage, a wooden box, a turning barrel, four wooden palettes on edge, or any structure that is well ventilated for good air circulation. One of our Master Gardeners uses the inner drum of an old dryer. Start your pile with a six-inch layer of brush trimmings or wood chips. Next add a six-inch layer of leaves, straw, hay or a mixture. Water the pile. Add a nitrogen source such as an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Then put about a fourth inch of soil over the nitrogen. Water. Then add a two to three inch layer of high nitrogen material such as vegetative kitchen scraps, grass clippings, etc. Then add another thin layer of soil. Keep adding layers and remember to water. Do not add animal products or milk products (such as butter, bones, cheese, chicken, fish scraps, lard, mayonnaise, meat scraps, peanut butter, salad dressing). Also, do not add animal manures or feces (except for herbivores like cow or horse manure). Loosen the pile with a pitch fork now and then. Now, all these good instructions aside, I put grass clippings, leaves, and vegetable scraps in my pile and water it. I very rarely turn it, and yet, it turns into compost in spite of me. Aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/compost/compost.html has a number of chapters on compost, including one on building your own container.

April 2014 Q & A: How much fertilizer should I apply to my lawn? Should I use a weed and feed product? What herbs can I plant now?

Q: I know that you should apply spring fertilizer to your lawn after you’ve mowed the grass twice to make sure that it is actively growing and ready to use the fertilizer.  However, I’m not sure how much to apply.  I’ve been hearing about the overuse of fertilizer and the pollution of our creeks and rivers.  Exactly what is the correct amount?

A: You do not need to apply more than one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn.  Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, reminds us that we are probably loaded with phosphorus and should consider using a fertilizer with just straight nitrogen.  I had a soil test done in my yard to make sure, and he was right.  Nitrogen is all I need except for possibly some iron. Remember that the amount listed on the bag may be more than you really need.  Do not fertilize before a predicted heavy rain.  As Welsh reminds us, nitrogen and other fertilizer nutrients can easily run off into the storm sewers and then into creeks and streams.  This nitrogen in the river can cause an algae bloom that uses up the oxygen in the water and kills the fish.

Q: How do you feel about using a bag of weed-and-feed instead of straight fertilizer on the lawn?  Wouldn’t that save time and money?

A:  It may sound good, but it’s not.  The timing is off.  Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied in late winter for summer control, while fertilizer is put out in mid spring after you’ve mowed a couple of times.  In the fall, the timing is off again.  Pre-emergent herbicides should be applied to the lawn in late summer or early fall, while the fall application of fertilizer should be after the first frost and the lawn has stopped growing.  I am very careful with my use of herbicides because I do not want to lose shrubs, trees or my perennials.  I did use a pre-emergent when I was trying to get rid of grassburs in the lawn but was not satisfied with the results.  We eventually resorted to the tried and true method of digging them by hand.  (This only works with small yards and takes a couple of years to get them all.)

Q: What summer herbs can I plant now?

A: Your cilantro will bolt from the heat, but basil is a good summer substitute for your garden.  Try several different types and colors this year and sample the different flavors.  My dill came up this winter and is almost ready to cut and dry.  You can still plant it by seed in your garden.  Mexican mint marigold is a favorite of mine.  It has pretty yellow flowers and is drought and heat tolerant.  Oregano is a very hardy plant.  I’ve had mine for a number of years and it is spreading across the garden.  I have to prune it severely each spring.

March 2014 Q & A: Tips for Planting Tomatillos. Can I plant Goldenrod in this region? How much mulch should I buy?

Q: I want to plant tomatillos.  What should I know about them?

A:  You probably have to buy the tomatillo or husk tomato (Physalis ixocarpa) by seed.  There are lots of varieties available, such as Cape Gooseberry, Mayan Husk Tomato, and Rendidora.  When I was a kid growing up in Florida, everyone had a plant or two in their garden.  Now that I read the growing conditions, I see why.  Tomatillos like well-drained, sandy loam soils with a pH between 5.5 and 7.3 according to AgriLife Extension’s Masabni, King and Taylor.  This Mexican native is sensitive to the cold and likes 80 to 90 degree days and 60 to 70 degree nights.  It prefers low humidity and sparse rainfall and should do very well here.  Cuttings root easily. Masabni says that tomatillos have only a few pests and diseases.  Those include cutworms, root-knot nematodes, tobacco budworm, and whiteflies among the pests, and black spot and tobacco mosaic virus as the diseases.  Once planted, tomatillos bear fruit in 65 to 85 days and continue bearing until the first frost.

Q:  I love goldenrod and hear that it attracts bees and other pollinators. Can I plant it in my garden?

A:  Goldenrod is beautiful and, contrary to popular belief, does not cause hay fever (which is caused by pollen from ragweed). If, however, you are planting tall goldenrod (Solidago altissima), you need to make sure you know what you are getting into.  Sally Wasowski (in Native Texas Plants) mentions that you need a lot of room.  She started with one plant and it spread.  I transplanted one plant into my garden last fall. Now I have about 20 plants which I am sharing with my friends.  Goldenrod blooms from September to November.  The plant likes dry to moist roadsides and open woods in part shade and shade and grows in many different soil types.  According to Wildflower.org (the Wildflower center in Austin), the height is determined mostly by the fertility and moisture content of the soil. Goldenrod flowers attract both bees and butterflies, so if you have space, it is great for a wildscape.  For a smaller yard, Wasowski suggests using Prairie goldenrod and Wright goldenrod since they are far better behaved.

Q: I’m getting ready to mulch my plants.  How do I know how much to buy?

A: Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that to figure out the amount of mulch you need, multiply the area by the desired depth of mulch expressed in feet; then divide that amount by the number of cubic feet in the bag.  His example is for 1000 square feet of area at a 2 inch mulch depth: so 1000 times 0.167 foot equals 167 cubic foot.  Divide that by a two cubic foot bag and you get 84 bags.  Or you can just guess and keep running back and forth for more like I do.  Some people buy mulch by bulk because it is cheaper.  But I find that bagged mulch is much easier for me to handle.

February 2014 Q & A: What do you suggest for an unusual garden-related Valentine gift? When do I prune roses? When do I prune plants and trees?

Q:  I’d like to give my sweetheart something unusual yet related to gardening for Valentine’s Day.  Do you have any suggestions?

A:  Seed potatoes are traditionally planted February 14, so certainly fit the guidelines of an “unusual” garden gift.  Buy seed potatoes from your local nursery rather than using ones from the grocery store which are sprayed with sprout inhibitors.  If you want to be even more unusual, buy a potato bag.  You put soil and seed potato pieces inside the bag, and when the ripe potatoes are ready, you lift a flap on the bottom of the bag and pull out potatoes.  Potatoes can also be planted the traditional way.  Dig a trench 4 to 6 inches deep. Lay the piece of potato (with two or three eyes) on the ground. Hill the soil up around the stem as the eye grows (potato tubers form around the stem).  Then dig finished potatoes in 90 to 120 days.  I’ve also had good luck growing in a bushel basket with the bottom cut out.  Simply set the basket in your garden, place the potato pieces inside on top of the ground, cover with fresh soil, and keep covering as the sprout grows.  This fills the basket.  Then, when the potatoes are ready to be “dug” you don’t have to do anything except lift the side of the basket to retrieve potatoes. I like this rather than digging with a shovel because in the past I’ve accidentally cut potatoes in half.  Don’t forget that when you pick your potatoes, wipe them off but do not wash before storing.  Mother Earth News suggests curing the fresh potatoes by keeping them in the dark at 60 degrees for 10 days to allow the tubers to heal.  That is not useful around here unless you have a root cellar, so just storing them in a dark garage would probably do.

Q:  When do I prune my roses?

A: This ties into the previous question because we prune around February 14.  In fact, if you were my husband, pruning the roses would be the perfect gift. According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, if you are pruning hybrids, cut the bushes back to about 24 inches leaving about four to six canes facing outward in a vase shape.  Trim out the dead or damaged wood.  For hybrids, I usually take off all the dead or damaged leaves also.  Clean the trash on the ground under the plant. If you are pruning old fashioned roses, cut off about one-third of the plant.  We usually cut off more to keep the bushes out of the eaves of the house.  Welsh mentions using hedge clippers to prune the old fashioned roses.  My husband invented this on his own.  It works wonderfully and saves a lot of snagged skin and clothes.

Q: When do I prune other plants and trees?

A: Welsh says, “The best time to prune is in winter just before spring growth begins.”  Remember: you don’t need pruning paint except when you prune oak trees (and that’s because we have oak wilt disease in this area of Texas).

January 2014 Q & A: What do I do with a poinsettia or Christmas cactus? What should I be doing in my vegetable garden this month?

Q:  I always receive a poinsettia or a Christmas cactus or an amaryllis for Christmas.  What do I do with them after Christmas?

A: They can be replanted for next year. The potted poinsettia should be kept in bright natural light and watered when the soil is dry.  According to Doug Welsh, A&M extension horticulturist, cut the plant back to 8 inches above the soil when it becomes long and leggy.  After March 17, put the plant outside in morning sun and afternoon shade. Fertilize, then water when dry.  At the end of May, trim a little off each branch so it will put out more side branches, repot into a larger pot, and move into direct sunlight.  In July trim again.  Continue watering and fertilizing.  By Labor Day move the plant into indirect filtered light with night temperature above 65 and give the plant 14 hours of darkness (cardboard box) and 10 hours bright light each day.  Discontinue at Thanksgiving and bring the plant into the brightest natural light in the house.  Water when dry.  It should rebloom by Christmas.  Or, if this is all too much, support your local nurseries and buy a new plant each year (or you can try planting the poinsettia outside). Christmas cactus also likes short days and long nights to bloom.  Welsh says his mother grew hers on the kitchen windowsill where the lights were turned off after dinner.  I would think the same thing would work with a pantry window sill that gets light during the day and no light once the sun goes down. For amaryllis, I suggest planting them outside on the south side of the house after they finish blooming and let them adapt to a natural schedule.  They may not bloom at Christmas, but they will bloom and multiply.

Q: What should I be doing in the vegetable garden this month?

A:  If your garden is like mine, you should probably be weeding.  Of course, a lot of my little weeds are baby larkspur and blue bonnets (which I will leave even though they will throw a lot of seeds again next year).  Any dead plants or trash on the soil should be removed because they give pests a place to winter over.  Now that they have frozen, cut back your asparagus plants.  I noticed this morning that my spinach and beet babies both need to be thinned.  And I think I have a strawberry about ready to be picked. The frozen plants in your landscape beds, if you can stand it, should be left alone and pruned later.  This gives birds a place to stay.  If you must prune, do not prune into the live wood as our warm days might tempt the plants to sprout.  New sprouts are delicate and will freeze. Use this time of year to peruse seed catalogs.  Send off for some of those seeds that you have been wanting to try.  I am buying some French marigold seeds to see if they will help decimate my root knot nematode population.

December 2013 Q & A: How do I control nematode infestation? Should I cut back perennials after the first freeze?

Q: I’ve been cleaning my vegetable garden and pulled up my okra plants.  Their roots were just covered with root knot nematodes.  I am really surprised because I planted that bed with Elbon rye (cereal rye) two years ago.  I thought that was supposed to take care of nematodes.  What now?

A: Sadly enough, when I started reading up on the problem, management is difficult.  According to the University of California at Davis, you should prevent nematode infestation in the first place by buying resistant plants, making sure the imported soil is not infested, and keeping weeds pulled and your ground sanitary.  Once you get nematodes, infestation can be reduced by fallowing, crop rotation, and soil solarization.  Each is effective only for about a year.  Your garden should have sufficient water and soil amendments to help the afflicted plants.  Fallowing means to leave the soil bare for a period of time like one year.  For solarization, moisten the soil, cover with clear plastic tarp, and leave for 4 to 6 weeks during the hot summer.  Root knot nematodes die when soil temperature gets above 125 degrees for 30 minutes.  (The problem, I would think, is how far down that temperature goes.) There are other nematode suppressive plants besides Elbon rye.  French marigolds (Tagetes species) suppress root knot nematodes.  Ones that work include Nemagold, Petite Blanc, Queen Sophia, Tangerine, and Single Gold (or Nema-gone).  They must be planted solidly–no more than seven inches apart according to Clemson University. Your best bet is to divide your garden into thirds, and set up a rotation going from fallow, to a summer susceptible crop, to a winter spring crop, to a summer solarizing, and so on.  Remember that when you solarize, you kill all of your bugs, both good and bad. I am now growing all of my tomatoes in their own pot and not in the garden.   Luckily, there are some nematode resistant plants.  Check the labels on your tomatoes to make sure there is an “N” on the package (Better Boy, Celebrity, etc.) and ask your nursery person about other nematode resistant vegetable plants (leeks, for instance). Your winter garden will probably do best because most nematode species are active during warm summer months.  Remember to remove annual vegetables including their roots just as soon as harvest is over.

Q: As soon as my perennials freeze back can I cut them back to the ground so everything looks neat?

A:  Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says you may cut off dead portions of perennials killed by freezing weather, but if you leave the dead stuff on, it provides some insulation for healthy plant tissue.  This pruning is actually best done in February or March. FYI: Now is the time to collect bags of leaves from your neighbors for your compost bin.

November 2013 Q & A: When is the time to transplant oxblood lilies? In our region, which trees and shrubs produce fall color? What plants are suitable for holiday gift giving?

Q:  My oxblood lilies have finished blooming and I now have big clumps of leaves.  When can I move them to different spots in the yard?

A:  Judy Barrett, in her November Homegrown newsletter, says they can be planted anytime you can find them, but now that the blooms have faded is a great time to transplant.  She adds that the bulbs should be planted at a depth approximately three times the height of the bulb.  She adds, “If you are transplanting clumps, plant at the same height at which they were growing or just a little deeper.” After that, water them in. I’ve had mine for several years and it is always a joy to see the first one open.  Barrett says they are also called schoolhouse lilies because they bloom about the time that school starts in the fall.

Q:  I am going to put in trees and shrubs that have fall color.  What are my choices?

Gulf Muhly

A:  According to the San Antonio Landscape Care Guide,  tree planting season begins in mid-November.  I would drive around to the various nurseries near you and see what is available and look at the different colors.  We bought dwarf nandina (Heavenly bamboo) nine years ago thinking that all nandina turns burgundy in the fall;  ours does not.  Someone has since told me to pick out the plant in the nursery that is already showing color.  (I do not suggest nandina.  It is spreading everywhere and is considered an invasive in many areas.) Cedar elm trees turn a nice yellow.  Our Chinese pistache is yellow red (make sure you have a male).  Flameleaf sumac is a real pretty red.  The Texas red oak is red to yellow.  Another tree is the chinquapin oak which will develop a yellow, orange-brown, to rich brown fall color. Crepe myrtle turns yellow orange in the fall. Several of my favorite plants that look great in the fall are the yaupon holly, Burford holly, and that gorgeous grass Gulf Muhly, which is really on show right now.  Possumhaw has red berries, but has no leaves in the winter.  It would have to be an accent plant.  Actually, many of our trees that have fall color lose their leaves in the winter.

Q:  This year I want to give plants as Christmas gifts.  Any suggestions?

A:  I think amaryllis are beautiful and you can plan ahead for when the bloom appears.  Different Internet sources give anywhere from 5 to 10 weeks once the bulb is planted until it has a bloom.  You could buy several bulbs and start them a week apart to be sure.  The amount of money you spend would depend on how expensive the pot was.  Another plant that would be a great gift is a rosemary shaped as a Christmas tree or as a topiary.  You could even shape the rosemary yourself if you are so inclined.  After the recipient enjoys the plant during the holidays, it can be transferred to the yard.

October 2013 Q & A: Is it okay to plant goldenrod? What can I do with all these tree leaves? Is it time to fertilize my lawn?

Q:  I have goldenrod growing at the back of my garden and I’m worried about what my neighbors might say because of its bad reputation.  Should I pull it out? A: Definitely not.  I too have goldenrod (solidago) growing and blooming.  It is not the culprit for hay fever.  The cause of hay fever is ragweed which is also growing and blooming right now.  I am really fond of goldenrod and use it in floral arrangements, both fresh and dried.  I also used it to naturally dye some white wool yarn I spun.  It came out a really pretty golden yellow.  Parents might want to try this project with their children or grandchildren.  I collected my plants from a ditch line along my road.  The ground was hard and I only got a little of the root, but it grew and is spreading (hopefully not too much). Q:  It has been so dry that some of my trees already are losing leaves.  I know you say not to throw them in the trash.  What can I do with them? A:  If you don’t have many leaves, just leave them on the lawn and run over them with your mulching mower.  If you have a lot, spread them between the rows of your vegetable plants, under your shrubs, in your flower beds, or put them in your compost bin.  Remember, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, fallen leaves contain 50 to 80 percent of the nutrients a plant extracts from the soil and air during the growing season, so you definitely do not want to throw this free fertilizer away.  If you really don’t want to have anything to do with your leaves, you can bag them and take them to the Master Gardener community garden in Schertz or one of the several community gardens in Seguin. I know that many of my friends are always on the lookout for bags of leaves for their compost bins. Q: How do I know when it is time to fertilize? A: The rule of thumb is that when you don’t need to mow for two weeks, then it is time to fertilize.  In our area, it is somewhere around October 15.  Going with Doug Welsh’s recommendation, use a 2-1-1 or a 1-0-1 ratio.  Your nitrogen should include both quick and slow release forms to encourage production of carbohydrates.  (If you are like me, you want to know why the grass wants carbohydrates.  Welsh says it is stored in the roots for earlier spring greening and as an energy source during winter stress.)  Apply one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.  Remember, if you have wildflowers that come up in your lawn in the spring, you do not want to use a pre-emergent weed killer.  Your wildflower seeds won’t come up either. FYI: My American beautyberry is gorgeous this year, and I am anxiously waiting for my Gulf muhly grass to send up bloom spikes

September 2013 Q & A: Can I plant vegetables in pots? How do I deal with a digging armadillo? Should I plant trees and shrubs in the fall? Is it time to plant wildflowers?

Q:  Can I plant vegetables in pots?  I don’t have much of a yard and the soil is too hard to dig. A:  Vegetables do fine in pots.  A large pot of lettuce or spinach by your back door close to the kitchen makes it easy to make salad.  Make sure your pots have good drainage; use a lightweight potting mix.  When it is hot, you will probably need to water daily.  Use a slow release fertilizer.  A two to three gallon pot can be used for beans, beets, carrots, lettuce, mustard, greens, radishes, Swiss chard and turnips.  A larger five gallon pot is good for broccoli, cauliflower, cucumbers, eggplant, kale, melons, peppers, squash, and tomatoes.  I always grow my tomatoes in pots that have an attached water reservoir.   If watering becomes a problem for you, set up drip irrigation for your pots.  Even those pots with a reservoir can be set up with drip irrigation. Q:  I have armadillos digging around my foundation and my plants.  What can I do? A:  This is a problem that many of us are facing right now.  My husband has had good luck with a live trap.  You don’t need to bait the trap, but you do need to set up two by sixes to funnel the animal into the trap.  We put the trap along side the house foundation where armadillos had been walking, then put a two by six at an angle leading into the trap. Q:  I’ve heard that trees and shrubs can be planted in the fall.  Is this so? A:  Doug Welsh, an A&M extension horticulturist, says that fall is the perfect time to plant container-grown trees and shrubs.  The root systems have time to put on new roots before spring growth begins. Q:  Is it time to plant wildflowers yet? A:  It is time.  (In fact, I went to Wildseed Farms this summer and brought back several packets of seeds.)  If you want to make sure that your seeds sprout, you need to achieve good soil-seed contact.  This can be done in a flower bed where you remove all vegetation and till one inch deep, or in a lawn (not St. Augustine) where you lightly till the grass to open the soil.  Mix the seed with sand: one part seed to four parts sand.  Spread the seed and sand mixture evenly over the area you’ve chosen.  Tamp down with your feet or a roller.  Water lightly.  If we don’t get rain in the next month, then water lightly once a week for the first month.  Remember in the spring to let your wildflowers set and disperse their seed before you pull them up.  If you have no luck getting bluebonnets to germinate, buy the plants by the six-pack from a nursery.  When they finish blooming, they will sprout from their own seeds each year.  My bluebonnets come back every year faithfully.  Don’t fertilize your bluebonnets.  Welsh says they collect their own fertilizer though a bacterial relationship called nitrogen fixation

August 2013 Q & A: Which are best shade trees to plant in our area? How can I keep crape myrtles blooming? Which fall vegetables should I be planting now? Do I need to be tending to my roses for fall blooms?

Q:  I am planning on planting a couple of shade trees in the fall.  How do I know what kind is best for this area? A:  Now is a wonderful time to drive around and look at which trees are flourishing.  My personal favorites are the Monterrey oak and the cedar elm, both of which are oak wilt resistant trees.  There are many resistant trees.  Others I like include the pecan, walnut, bur oak, chinquapin oak, and lacey oak.  The ‘Fan Tex’ ash is resistant, but mine has not done well.  It was planted at the same time as my live oak and is smaller, not as full, and generally unhealthy looking.  You might consider planting one of the larger crape myrtles.  Nothing is prettier this time of year than the large crape myrtles surrounding TLU.  Remember that it is best to plant several types of trees, not all one variety. Q:  Can I do anything to keep my crape myrtles blooming? A:  According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, you can deadhead the plants or remove the old blooms.  This will prevent the setting of seed and will extend the blooming period.  Do not cut any branches with a diameter larger than a pencil.  You are only extending the bloom, not pruning. Q:  I have my fall tomatoes and peppers planted now.  What other fall vegetable should be planted in August? A:  Many vegetables can go in this month including bush beans, lima beans, carrots, corn, cucumbers, garlic, lettuce (late August), parsley, peas, potatoes, radishes, squash and turnips.  I usually wait on broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower until I can buy the transplants in the nursery.  I have already planted my Swiss chard (way too early), although I planted the seeds in a pot protected from the afternoon sun. Q:  My roses are not pretty.  What can I do to get them blooming again this fall? A:  August is the time to prune roses.  However, you are not pruning anywhere near as much as you did in late winter.  Only take off about twenty-five percent of the bush, making sure to remove the old blooms.  Doug Welsh prunes like my husband (with hedge clippers), then shapes the bushes.  If you have black spots on your rose leaves, remove the leaves.  I only see these on the rose bush that gets hit with the sprinkler at four in the morning.  Welsh suggests fertilizing with nitrogen in mid August, then watering the plants thoroughly. FYI:  There is lots of poison ivy around this year.  I’ve seen it in Starcke Park, Walnut Springs Park, and even one or two plants out in back of my house.  Be vigilant.  Remember: do not burn the plant.  The compound urushiol will get in the smoke and bother you and your neighbors.  Sensitivity to poison ivy ranges from an isolated skin rash, to whole body breakouts, to lung inflammation.

July 2013 Q & A: What has damaged the leaves of my red oak? What causes webbing on oak tree trunk? When do I plant my winter garden?

Q:  Some of the leaves on my red oak are skeletonized — the green tissue is gone and the veins remain with kind of a brown part of the leaf remaining.  What did it and what do I need to do now? A: Skeletonizers can be caterpillars or slug sawflies.  Caterpillar damage is cosmetic according to the Missouri Botanical Garden website.  By the time you find the damage, it is too late to control (bacillus thuringiensis would be the proper spray).  Oak slug sawfly also skeletonizes leaves.  The United States Forest Service says that microbial diseases and other natural enemies usually keep the sawfly in check.  However, if too much of the tree is covered, then you can spray with insecticidal soap (according to the Ohio State University site) or spinosad (the Better Homes and Gardens site). Q:  What is the webbing on the trunk of my oak tree?  A:  Barklice are beneficial insects that eat fungi, algae, dead bark and other organic materials on tree trunks and large limbs.  If the webbing really disturbs you, you could wash it off with a high pressure hose.  However, if you leave the web alone, the insects and the webbing will slowly disappear.  One Internet article says that the insects eat the web before the end of the year; another, that the webs disintegrate as they weather. Q: When do I plant my winter garden? A:  There is a rule of thumb for planting vegetables that will freeze.  (This includes cucumbers, squash, tomatoes, cantaloupe, eggplant, okra, peppers, pumpkins, watermelon, etc.)  First, take the number of days from seeding or transplanting to harvest.  For a Celebrity tomato, that would be 70 days.  Then add two weeks or 14 days for the “fall factor.”  Things grow slower in the fall.  Add 3 weeks or 21 days for frost tender plants which would include the tomato.  Here we have 105 days.  This is how many days to count back from our first frost date.  Of course, the “first frost date” is the problem.  For San Antonio it is around November 28.  In 2010 near Seguin (my house) the first freeze was Nov. 27.  In 2011 the first freeze at my house was Nov. 4.  In 2012 my first freeze was Dec. 11.  Using the November 27 date, we count back 105 days and come up with August 15 as the last possible time to plant the tomato.  However, counting back from November 4, we end up having to plant the tomato by July 23.  From this, you can see, first of all, that I keep a garden journal, and second, that it is hard to guess the weather.  Plant early, shade the plant from afternoon sun, and be prepared to protect from freezes. Or, just plant fall vegetables.  These include beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, Swiss chard, collards, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard, onions, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach and turnips.  This past year was my best year ever for beets and leeks (lots of frozen leeks for soup, and many jars of pickled beets).

June 2013 Q & A: What is the red-flowered perennial that attracts bees and butterflies? How can I establish a bird-friendly yard? Where can I learn about drip-irrigation?

Bee Balm-Monarda Didyma

Q: I saw a red flowered perennial in a friend’s garden that had bees and butterflies around it.  The friend called it bee balm.  Will it grow well for me? A:  The answer is definitely yes.  According to Wikipedia, monarda (bergamot, horsemint, bee balm) is a genus consisting of roughly 16 species of  flowering plants in the family Lamiaceae.   The one you saw is monarda didyma. The species include both annual and perennial upright growing herbaceous plants. The plants are used most frequently in areas in need of naturalization, and are often used in beds and borders to increase hummingbirds, pollinating insects, and predatory/parasitic insects that hunt garden pests.  Wikipedia suggests that because of oils present in the roots, monarda plants are sometimes used as a companion plant around small vegetable crops susceptible to subterranean pests and can be a good plant to grow with tomatoes, supposedly improving both health and flavor.  This last statement I will be able to confirm (or deny) after this year as I have a lovely Scarlet bee balm or monarda didyma planted right in the middle of one of my vegetable beds. Wildflower.org describes Scarlet bee balm as a popular perennial with scarlet-red flowers in terminal tufts. The three foot stems are lined with large, oval, dark-green leaves. Individual flowers are narrowly tube-shaped, tightly clustered together in two inch heads. The leaves have a minty aroma.  Hummingbirds are especially attracted to the red flowers. Every spring a wild white bee balm comes up in my backyard that I suspect is M. citriodora or lemon bee balm.  I also have another variety with pale purple flowers. Q: What can I do to make my yard more friendly for birds? A:  The simplest answer is provide food, water, shelter and places for nests.  Your trees or shrubs probably already have nests in them. I keep a couple of seed feeders filled year round, even though I have plenty of bushes with edible berries: hackberry, yaupon, American beautyberry, fig, blueberries (which I keep covered with a net for me), and chili peppers.  Here in Texas we do need to provide water year round.  I have a number of bird baths and two larger lily ponds.  Refresh the water frequently to keep out mosquitoes.  In my water lily ponds I use BT floats (which don’t hurt the fish) for mosquito larvae.  Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests that you also provide a small area of sand, tiny gravel, or crushed eggshells.  This helps birds grind and digest seeds.  Remember to also plant hummingbird plants.  I already have hummers flying around my columbine, larkspur, salvias, Turks Cap and flame acanthus (anisacanthus quadrifidus).  Lantanas, petunias, plumbago, verbena and four o’clock are also hummingbird plants. Q: Is there a way to learn about drip irrigation? A: Check with your County AgriLife Extension agent.  He can provide information.

May 2013 Q & A: What annual flowers should I plant? Is it too late to plant vegetables? How do I manage my strawberry plants? Which is the best variety fig to plant?

Mexican Sunflower

Q:  What flowers should go in now that will do well over the summer? I don’t want perennials in this bed because I will replace the summer flowers with fall bloomers. A:  My favorites include cosmos and tithonia (Mexican sunflower).  Other warm season flowers include marigold, periwinkles, portulaca, purslane, salvia, petunias, sunflowers, verbena, and, of course, another one of my favorites, zinnias.  If you don’t like the idea of replacing every season, plant something that remains green in the winter and flowers in the summer like skullcap (scutellaria). Q:  Is it too late to plant vegetables? A:  Tomato, pepper, and eggplant transplants can still be purchased.  If the tomato plants are large enough, you should still be able to have tomatoes before the nights get too warm.  Okra can be planted until July 15 according to Dr. Jerry Parsons in his spring planting chart for the San Antonio area.  Pumpkins can be planted now until June 15.  Summer spinach (New Zealand and Malabar) can be planted until June 1.  If you just want the greens, turnips can be planted until May 20. Q:  My strawberries have finished bearing.  What do I do with the plants? A:  According to both Texas A&M AgriLife Extension and John Dromgoole, the organic gardening expert with Ladybug products, strawberries here in Texas are an annual crop–plant in the fall, pull up when the plant stops producing.  Strawberries are difficult to grow here because they are sensitive to water quality, poor soils, diseases and nematodes.  Both A&M and Dromgoole suggest June bearing plants rather than ever bearing plants (plants recommended are Chandler, Seascape, and Sequoia).  All of this said, however, it doesn’t hurt to try to hold the plants over (they really are perennial).  Mine are in their third year.  When they make runners after fruiting, I root the runners and they become new plants.  My largest parent plants look a little ratty right now, so will probably discard them and keep the younger ones.  I started with one plant three years ago and now have six with all six producing.  My neighbor grows his in a large raised bed with drip irrigation.  I have mine in pots where I have to remember to water.  However, by growing in pots I can control the soil.  (I replace it every year to keep the salinity down and hopefully the alkalinity.)  If you have space, experiment by holding your plants over another year.  You haven’t lost anything by trying. Q:  Everyone’s fig trees look so great this spring.  What kind should I have? A:  My favorite is the Celeste.  It is a smaller fig, brown to purple and is the most cold hardy.  It ripens in mid-June and grows well here. It is also a closed-end variety, which you will appreciate if you were raised around open-end varieties full of wasps.  Do not prune a mature Celeste heavily.  This reduces the crop because fruit is produced primarily on this season’s wood.

April 2013 Q &A: Is it time to fertilize? Can I use weed and feed? How short can I mow my lawn? I don’t have room for a garden. What can I plant in a pot?

Q: Is it time to fertilize? Can I use weed and feed? A: Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, is particularly adamant about not using weed and feed fertilizer because the timing for weed control and feeding is so different. Spring lawn fertilizer is put out in the spring after you have mowed a couple of times, while summer weed control herbicides are applied in late winter (February for here). Fall fertilizing is done after the first frost and the lawn has stopped growing which is usually mid October through November, while pre-emergent herbicides are applied in August or September. Post emergent herbicides can’t tell the difference between a weed and a tree or shrub. Welsh suggests that if your lawn is properly mowed, fertilized and watered, weeds are seldom a major problem. In fact, my husband carefully sprays a dot of glyphosate in the center of dandelions to take care of our lawn weed problem. Over a period of five years we have finally eliminated grass burs by digging each plant before we mow. The first year was terribly back breaking. Now, however, there are only a few near our neighbor’s yard. Q: How short can I mow my lawn? A: According to Welsh, the optimal height for common Bermuda is one to three inches (or three fourth inch to two inches for hybrid Bermuda). The height for St. Augustine grass is three to four inches. Make sure you have a mulching lawn mower. Those grass clippings decompose rapidly and provide nutrients for your lawn. Mowing at the highest recommended height helps your lawn withstand heat and drought. Taller heights develop deeper root systems. Q: I don’t have room for a garden. What can I plant in a pot? A: This is a question I get frequently. Almost anything will grow in a pot as long as you remember to water. Some of my bigger pots (the blueberries) are hooked up to my automatic drip irrigation system. My Mexican lime is near the house so I have to remember. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce, cucumbers and squash (with a trellis), broccoli and many others will all grow well in pots. You must have 6 to 8 hours of sun. My pots are on the east side of the deck so do well. If you are still wary of planting vegetables, why not try herbs. They are useful as well as beautiful. In fact, my culinary sage is in full bloom right now. Other herbs that can be planted now are different types of basil, chives, garlic chives, dill (also a good butterfly larva plant), Mexican mint marigold (use instead of tarragon or anise), Mexican oregano, many different mints, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme. I have my sweet bay laurel in the ground, but my daughter-in-law has hers in a pot and it does just fine. I always keep a pot of parsley near the house for instant use. At a meeting recently someone made a dish of tabbouleh which had chopped parsley, mint, tomatoes, and green onion; this was mixed with olive oil, lemon and cracked wheat. Delicious!

March 2013 Q & A:  Is it too late to prune? Is it spring yet? Is it time to divide fall-blooming perennials? What is best to plant in a kid’s garden?

Q: Is it too late to prune? I’ve really been much too busy this spring.

A: The best time to prune, according to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, is in winter just before spring growth begins. That said, sometimes we have to do what needs to be done no matter what. I was really late pruning roses last year (like never). Consequently I made things much harder on myself this year. So here are some loose rules from Texas A&M. Prune flowering shrubs that bloom in spring within a month after flowering. Prune summer flowering shrubs before new growth starts. Remember that for some plants, you should prune only for shape as too much taken off will affect next season’s blooms. Dead wood should be pruned. My hamelia (fire bush) froze to the ground as usual so all of that can be cut back. The esperanza by the house I took half down. The one in the back yard which froze I took to the ground. Q: We just moved here. How do we know when spring is here and we can plant?

Texas Mountain Laurel

A: Old timers say spring is here when the mesquite trees leaf out. Others say when the wildflowers bloom. Red bud trees, bluebonnets, phlox and mountain laurel are blooming now. Trees and shrubs can still be planted before the heat sets in. Tomatoes can be planted now if you use hot caps or some other protection. If you are really nervous about planting early, at least transplant the little tomato into a one gallon pot to give it a head start. The reason we try to plant tomatoes as early as possible (according to AgriLife Extension professor Dr. Joe Masabni) is that around here tomato plants stop setting fruit by early July because night temperatures are then in the mid 70s. High night temperatures and high relative humidity cause the pollen grains of the tomato flower to burst so then there is no pollination. Q: When do I divide my fall blooming perennials? A: Now is the time to divide fall blooming perennials as well as ornamental grasses. Make sure that new green growth is coming from the ornamental grass plant base before you cut back dead foliage. Q: I understand that tomato prices might go up this year; also I worry about pesticide residue on vegetables. I want my children and family to grow at least some of our produce. What can we plant in the kids’ garden that will do well? A: Tomatoes are a good choice and children really like picking cherry tomatoes. Yellow or zucchini squash grow well from seed as do pumpkins. Plant some bush varieties of beans, and if you have a fence, plant some pole beans. The yard long bean types do wonderfully well. If you have room, let the kids plant some sunflowers–the flowers are pretty and the seeds are tasty. Plus, I always have a row or two of carrots for my grandkids.

February 2013 Q & A: How and when to prune Satsuma, other citrus trees, and roses? Is it time to plant seedlings? What can you tell me about Damianita?

Q: My Satsuma tree has reached the top of my house. Can I prune it? What about other citrus? A: According to Dr. Julian Sauls, a Texas A&M horticulturist, the best time to hedge and top is during the cooler months, after harvest but prior to bloom because the timing is compatible with early, midseason and navel oranges. Grapefruit trees are a problem, however, because the harvest is rarely completed before spring bloom, so you will end up sacrificing part of your un-harvested crop or sacrificing some of next year’s crop. Dr. Sauls says that it doesn’t matter whether the pruning is conducted before or after the bloom, as the results will be about the same–reduction in production during the season following pruning. However, if the branches are on your house, they must be pruned. Plus, you need to keep your tree a size that you can reach the fruit, and be able to cover it if we have a really bad freeze. If your citrus is in a pot, you need to prune to maintain a balanced shape. If your container isn’t getting enough sun, the branches become leggy. Prune these back to encourage side branching and a more compact growth of the top. Remember, you need 8 to 10 hours of direct sun daily. Q: When is it time to prune roses? A: Doug Welsh says to prune modern hybrid roses heavily each year two to three weeks before spring growth begins (about February 14). Prune each bush back to a height of 18 to 24 inches. Old fashioned roses, however, should be pruned to fit the landscape–about one-third of the plant’s height. If you need “how to prune” information, Peggy Jones, our Master Gardener rose lady, will be talking twice in February. She will be speaking at the Gonzales County MG office, 623 Fair Street, February 12 at 6:30 p.m.; she will also be speaking February 19 at the Santa Clara City Hall at 6:30 p.m. Q: Can I start planting my seedling flats now? A: San Antonio’s last average freeze date is March 6. You can start your flats now, and maybe even have time to transplant them to four inch pots before it is time to plant. Be sure to plant tomatoes. Looks like tomato prices are going to go up. Q: I saw that the NICE (Natives Instead of Common Exotics) plants for the first quarter of 2013 include a pretty plant with yellow daisy like flowers. Can you tell me something about Damianita Chrysactinia mexicana? A: Damianita, a member of the aster family, is a 1 to 2 foot aromatic shrub with yellow composite flowers. The Wildflower Center says that this evergreen perennial is very drought tolerant. It blooms in spring and on and off through September. The shrub grows in most soils, including caliche, smells good (both flowers and foliage), and is deer resistant. Provide good drainage.

January 2013 Q & A: Is it time to plant roses and bare root fruit trees? What harvest will my winter garden continue to yield?

Q: Can I plant roses this time of year? A: Roses can be planted almost year round according to Doug Welsh, Extension horticulturist. If you plant the dormant packaged roses now, they will be blooming by late spring. Potted roses can be planted any time; however, remember that summertime planting of anything is hard on a plant. My roses outside my window as I write this have been through three freezes and look great. They are not blooming, but the leaves are green and that is a plus this time of year. If you want a large robust bush, plant the Mutabilis rose. It has been around since 1894, and has lovely blooms that range from yellow to orange to pink to reddish. It does get big so leave enough space. We have one on the east side of the Extension building that is taking over its area. Q: The nursery has bare root fruit trees. Should I save them in a pot for spring? A: Plant them now because their root system will have a chance to get established before spring growth and before the heat of the summer. I can personally recommend several crops that you should plant. Figs do wonderfully here as do persimmons. Blueberries also do well with almost no diseases or insects (in fact, our main problem was keeping the mockingbirds out of the bushes). Blueberries do need to be planted in pots of peat, however, as our soils are not acidic. My three bushes are about nine years old and have been repotted three or four times into larger pots. Remember that most apples, pears, and plums need cross pollination by another variety. Also, it is important that peaches, plums, apples and pears have a certain number of chilling hours (between 32 degrees F. and 45 degrees F.) in order to end their dormancy and produce blooms. Your local nursery man will know which variety is good for your area. I’m afraid that we won’t have enough chilling hours for my plum trees this year.

Courtesy of Clara Mae Marcotte

Q: I’ve cut the heads off of most of my broccoli plants. Can I pull them up now? What else can be in the winter garden? A: Broccoli plants put out small auxiliary heads around where the main head was. Leave your plant in the ground until you get tired of broccoli. This winter has been great for cos or Romaine lettuce. I keep cutting the outer leaves and new ones form. My kohlrabi is almost big enough to eat, we’ve gotten lots of bok choy leaves for our salad, and we’ve eaten a few snow peas. This is my first year for planting leeks so do not know when they will be ready to eat, although the literature says 100 to 120 days or one to two inches in diameter. Mine are about the size of multiplying onions right now. I guess this means that they will be ready by the end of February. My onion plants are planted and my beets are looking good.

December 2012 Q & A: Will a Norfolk Island pine grow in our area? Do I have enough time to plant an Amaryllis for holiday gifting? What are critical garden tasks this month?

Q: A friend has given me a small decorated Norfolk Island pine for the holidays. Can I grow it outside when Christmas is over? A: This cute tree is definitely not for our area. High temperatures will burn the needles; low temperatures of 30 to 32 degrees can kill the growing tip, and below 25 degrees can cause heavy freeze damage, according to Doug Welsh. When I lived in Kingsville, my son gave his teacher a small Norfolk Island pine. She planted it in a protected courtyard where it grew to over thirty feet and lived for many years. We are 159 miles above Kingsville (more chances for colder temperatures), but you could try planting it outside. Just don’t get too attached. Q: Do I still have time to start amaryllis bulbs for blooming holiday gifts? A: Yes, you do if you hurry. And even if you start late, I personally love watching the leaves and bloom spike come out of the pot. Buy a bulb and plant it in a small pot of decent potting soil. Have the top end of the bulb (the pointy end) sticking up out of the soil about one inch. Add water and bright light. The Galveston County Master Gardeners are a bit more specific. They say to pot your amaryllis bulb in a container six inches wide and eight to ten inches deep with a drainage hole. Put a layer of pebbles on the bottom of the pot; then fill it half full with moist potting mix. Place the bulb root side down with the pointed end up on top of the soil. The upper third of the bulb should be above the rim of the container. Add more potting mix between the bulb and container; water thoroughly. Put the container in a warm location and keep the soil slightly moist. After the first growth appears, move the container to a sunny spot. Blooms will appear six to eight weeks after planting. In the spring, plant the bulb in your garden and you will have it for many years. Q: I am looking forward to resting this winter and doing nothing outside. Is there anything I really have to keep up with in my yard? A: If you have a vegetable garden, don’t forget to keep watering and fertilizing. The winter garden is always my best garden. My neighbor put in a cover crop of Elbon rye for the fallow part of his garden. The colder weather is also a great time to pull weeds. When plants freeze, do not cut them back until the spring. (Sometimes we get warm days during the winter and, if the plants have been cut back, they might be tempted to sprout new tender growth which could freeze.) Mow your lawn to keep down the winter weeds. By this time, your tomato plants are already moved to your porch or garage. Be prepared to cover freeze sensitive plants.

November 2012 Q & A:  What is the difference between edible and ornamental kale?  Can I plant fall asters now?

Q: What is the difference between flowering kale and the kale we eat? A: It is the same genus and species and is genetically the same as the kind we grow in vegetable gardens to eat. The flowering version was developed by growers for the foliage colors. It is basically still edible but most cooks just use the leaves to garnish a dish. Kale is a form of cabbage in which the central leaves do not form a head. Nurseries carry various types of ornamental kale. The three leaf types, according to Kathie Carter of the Botany Plant Sciences Department of the University of California Riverside, are crinkle edged, feather leaved and round leaved. Each kind comes with red, pink or creamy white centers. I’ve just finished planting two types for contrast around my front bed: green with white center and dark purplish green with red center. We treat ornamental kale as an annual, but it is really a biennial. Carter suggests planting kale in full sun October through November, ten to twelve inches apart. The plants thrive in cold weather, and, if acclimatized to the cold, can withstand temperatures as low as five degrees F. If you start seeing holes in the leaves, remember that the same bugs that like cabbage and kale also like ornamental kale. Cabbage loopers and cabbage worms can be spotted on the underside of the leaves and can be easily mashed. Q: I see fall aster blooming by the side of road. Can I buy it in the nursery now? A: All our area nurseries are carrying fall aster right now as it is one of the NICE! recommended plants for this quarter. NICE! (Natives Instead of Common Exotics) is the program promoted by the Guadalupe and Comal Chapters of the Native Plant Society of Texas. Fall aster (Aster oblongifolium) grows two to three feet tall and is a great perennial for this area. It freezes to the ground in winter but will come back in the spring. You need to trim the plant to the rosette at the base of the plant in early spring. Baby plants form around the outside of the base. The NPSOT recommends dividing the clumps of plants every third year. Fall aster is very drought tolerant once it develops deep roots. After the new plant is placed in the ground, you should water well with a root stimulator. Then, for the first three months, water the plant when the top two to three inches of soil is dry. Plants can be grown in well-drained rocky, calcareous or sandy soils in full sun. The flowers attract butterflies. NOTE: Don’t forget to put a cutting of basil in a jar of water on your window sill before the first freeze for use during the winter.

October 2012 Q & A: When to plant pansies, snapdragons, calendula; fertilize the lawn; and, plant onions.  Grass with pink feather seed heads is identified and tips for using fallen leaves.

Q: When can I plant pansies, snapdragons, and calendula? A: October is a good month. In fact, plant a few petunias now, and if they hold through a mild winter, they will be beautiful in the spring. Now is also the time to go to the nursery and look at landscape shrubs if you are in the market for some with berries. My American beautyberry is beautiful right now. My yaupon is also showing red. The possomhaw is starting to turn as is the Burford holly. If you are planning to buy nandina (although it can be invasive), make sure that the variety you buy has the fall red leaves. Q: Is it time for the last lawn fertilizer application? A: Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac gives us a rough rule, and that is not to fertilize until you don’t need to mow for two weeks. This makes it around October 15 for Central Texas. Welsh’s reason for fall fertilization is that it prolongs fall color, increases winter hardiness, and helps give an earlier spring green-up. Fall fertilizers can be high in nitrogen and potassium with no phosphorus, such as 2-0-2 or 1-0-1, at the rate of one pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Use a combination of quick and slow release forms. Q: Is it too late to plant onions? A: Onions are fine as well as a lot of our fall vegetables. If you’ve missed the last date for seeds, then transplants are fine. Don’t forget to put in some flowering kale in your front flower bed. I planted acorn squash early and already have tennis ball sized fruit. Among seeds that can still be planted are beets, carrots, lettuce, mustard, onions, parsley, spinach, and turnips. If you still have basil growing in your garden, before the first freeze (Nov. 4 this past year) harvest a stem and place it on your kitchen window sill for the winter (and it will root).

Gulf Muhly

Q: What is the grass I see in people’s yards with pretty pink feathery seed heads? A: This time of year you are looking at Gulf or Coastal muhly. It grows one and a half to two feet tall and blooms in the fall. Gulf muhly is recommended by the Native Plant Society in their NICE program (Natives Instead of Common Exotics) and all of our local nurseries in this area carry it. Other fall color grasses are Indiangrass (golden brown), inland sea oats (oat heads), little bluestem (blue green foliage turns copper), sideoats grama (looks like oats), and switchgrass (foliage turns orange). Q: Remind me again what to do with my fallen leaves. A: If you only have a small layer of leaves on the lawn, mow them in place. If you have a heavy layer use the leaves as mulch in the vegetable garden between the rows, or as a walkway. Build a compost pile. Save the bags and call a gardening friend because most of us who garden do not have enough leaves for our compost. Do not throw the leaves in our landfills.

September 2012 Q & A:  Is it time to plant wildflowers and winter vegetables?

Q: Is it too soon to plant wildflowers for spring blooms? A: According to Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac, for our area September and October are the best times to plant wildflower seeds. In fact, my bluebonnets are already starting to come up from last year. Welsh suggests buying a wildflower mix with 15 to 20 species and planting it at a rate of one-fourth pound per 500 square feet. Master Gardeners planted the front of Guadalupe County’s AgriLife building with a Texas mixture of wildflower seeds from a seed company in Junction. In the spring, our MG wildflower display is wonderful–and it reseeds every year. Another really good wildflower seed company is in Fredericksburg. For smaller wildflower plots, our local nurseries have packets of seed mixtures. The best way to grow seeds is to remove all vegetation and till one inch deep (or lightly till your existing buffalo grass or Bermuda grass lawn). Mix the seed mix with sand at one part seed to four parts sand. Spread seed mixture over your area. Tamp down with your feet or a roller. Water lightly. Unless we are in a drought, natural rainfall is enough. The Wildflower Center in Austin lists “10 Ways to Ruin Your Wildflowers” on their website. 1. Too much or too little water; 2. Ignore the soil. (Rather than bare soil, enrich your soil with a compost low in nitrogen and phosphorous). 3. Pair plants that don’t get along. (Bluebonnets don’t like to compete with other plants.) 4. Tiptoeing through the bluebonnets. (Don’t.) 5. Ignore the wildflower area outside of wildflower season. (Mowing is a way to maintain your meadow by keeping the grasses at bay.) 6. Using fertilizer, insecticides and fungicides. (Don’t do it.) 7. Poor mowing regimen. (Wait to mow until at least half the plants have dropped their seeds. I know you can agree with the Wildflower Center here because we have all seen what happens when the highway department mows too soon.) 8. Burying your wildflower patch in mulch. (Not if you want them to reseed.) 9. Ignoring place and time. (Too sunny, too shady, planting wrong time of year.) 10. Choosing plants designed to kill. (Don’t put allopathic plants near your wildflower patch.) Q: Is it time for winter vegetables? What else can be planted now? A: Vegetable plants are already in the nurseries, including cabbage, kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and bok choy. As an experiment, I planted acorn squash 3 or 4 weeks ago to see if they will make fruit before the first freeze. My fall tomato plants already have baby fruit. Start thinking about planting new trees and shrubs. We’re coming up to the time of the year when they like to be planted.

August 2012 Q & A: What’s wrong with my crape myrtle? Are the pears ripe? Is it time to prune roses for fall?

Q: I have yellow orange leaves on my crape myrtle. Is something wrong? A: From the description it seems to be Cercospora leaf spot which is a fungus and can result in heavy autumn leaf loss. It starts as round brown spots about ¼ inch across on the leaf surface. The spots eventually enlarge, turning the leaves bright red or yellow, which then fall off. The spots start near the base of the plant and spreads through the canopy to the younger growth. The leaves then fall prematurely and serve as a source of inoculum for spreading the pathogen and further disease development. Because of this, you should rake and destroy the fallen leaves. The Alabama Cooperative Extension System recommends choosing fungus-resistant cultivars, spacing the plants widely, and applying fungicide at 1 to 2 week intervals after spotting appears. Of course if you already have a particular cultivar, you are left with the spraying. The use of fungicides to control this disease has not been very effective because they would have to be applied repeatedly throughout the growing season. Getting adequate coverage on larger crape myrtles is also a problem. Clemson University Extension Service suggests you thin the interior branches to promote air flow because good air circulation helps the foliage to dry quickly. Even though we aren’t getting much rain, the weekly watering from the sprinkler is getting the foliage wet. I had this problem last summer also, but the turning color and the leaf drop sort of blended into fall when the leaves were going to drop anyway. Q: When do I know if pears are ripe? A: I am assuming you have an Oriental hybrid (Orient, Kieffer, Warren, and Garber) since when I bought mine at a local nursery, that was the choice. Oriental hybrid pears do not ripen well on the tree. You can pick them when they turn from hard to firm (think “softball” hardness) and when the color has changed slightly from green to yellow (according to my Master Gardener handbook). Harvest maturity in Texas happens in August and September. Ripen the pears in the coolest part of your house in a well ventilated area. Then refrigerate the fruit until you finish eating it. Aggie-horticulture suggests you first refrigerate unripe pears as near 32 degrees F as possible and then ripen as desired. I had to pick my pears too early because the mockingbirds had started pecking on each pear and I was losing them so I am not sure whether they will ever ripen. I did eat one, but it didn’t have its full sugar and was crunchy like an apple. Q: When do I start pruning my rose bushes for fall? A: Doug Welsh says prune roses in mid August, but don’t prune as heavily as you did in February–maybe just 25 percent. After pruning, you should fertilize with nitrogen. After some water and mulch, you are ready for fall blooms.

July 2012 Q & A:  How to control grasshoppers; water plants and garden while on vacation; and, is it time to start a fall garden?

Q: Help! I have giant grasshoppers and they are eating everything. What can I do? A: If they are already huge, then Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac suggests two bricks. The grasshopper is one of those insects that you need to control when they are small. Insecticide that can be used when they are half inch size does not work well when they are huge. A&M suggests row cover material to protect your plants. Colorado State suggests poultry. (They also mention that coyotes eat grasshoppers, although coyotes in your garden really are not a good thing.) In Seguin, most of us are located near open fields and this is where the grasshoppers are breeding. Howard Garrett and Malcolm Beck in Texas Bug Book list natural control such as blister beetles, ground beetles, predatory flies, parasitic flies and birds. Their organic control is floating row cover or biological control such as Nosema locustae or Beauvaria bassiana. They also suggest spraying plants with kaolin clay at night because grasshoppers don’t usually fly then. Q: We are going on vacation. What should I do to keep my plants alive till I come back? A: Watering can be set up automatically. Irrigate everything before you go. Set your sprinkler so that it will water on your watering day (use a timer if you don’t have in-ground irrigation.) Put the drip irrigation in your garden on a timer also. Indoor plants should be moved outside in the shade where the sprinkler system can water them. If they are not plants that will stand up to this, Welsh suggests putting them in your bathtub and watering them heavily (two to three times the amount you normally use). In a bright and sunlit bathroom, the plants can go a week without more water. I usually have all my potted plants, both indoors and out, on the porch in one area where a neighbor can water them easily. Welsh suggests mowing and trimming your lawn at its normal height the day before you leave. Then make arrangements for someone to mow again a week later. He also suggests weeding, mulching, pruning and harvesting before you go, but if I did that, I would be too tired to go on vacation. Q: Is July really when I should start my fall garden? A: Yes, particularly if you want tomatoes before the first frost. If you plant vegetables from seed, allow 2 months from the seed to the beginning of harvest for beets, broccoli, cauliflower, collard greens, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard greens, spinach, Swiss chard and turnips. Three months from seed to the beginning of harvest includes the vegetables Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, onions, acorn and butternut squash. I usually buy transplants for my winter garden so that I don’t have to worry about the vegetables quite so early. Our first fall frost for San Antonio is November 28 according to Doug Welsh and November 25 in the Farmers Almanac. However, last year in Seguin November 4 was 32 degrees.

June 2012 Q & A: How to protect tomatoes from birds; attract hummingbirds; and, reduce landscape water use?

Q: What can I do to keep my tomatoes from being pecked by the birds? A: You can pick the tomato early and ripen it indoors. This doesn’t seem quite right, but Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that as soon as the bottom or blossom end of the tomato turns from green to white with a tinge of red, it is fully mature and will ripen indoors. (You could also cover the plant with netting.) Q: I want hummingbirds in my garden but do not want to be bothered with cleaning and filling hummingbird feeders. What can I plant to attract them? A: I watched a hummingbird this morning making the rounds of my different salvia plants. He also likes another one of my favorite plants, Flame anisacanthus (sometimes called Hummingbird bush). This perennial grows well in this area. Other plants include columbine, four-o’clock (remember that it can be invasive), honeysuckle, lantana, larkspur, petunia, plumbago and verbena. My Mexican oregano is in bloom and the hummingbird also went to it. (I went on the Internet to find the real name of Mexican oregano and found two different plants named this. Mine turns out to be Poliomintha longiflora and has purple tubular flowers. It is also sometimes called rosemary mint.) Q: Summer is here. What can I do to reduce my water use in the landscape? A: You can do a number of things. Hopefully you have already chosen appropriate plants. Plants native and adapted to our area will have lower irrigation requirements than most plants that we bring into our area. Some plants that use low water include Texas mountain laurel, Texas sage or cenizo, esperanza, firebush, rosemary and salvias. Another way to reduce water usage is to get rid of hard-to-water lawn areas, like that narrow strip between the sidewalk and the street. It is really hard to water that area efficiently without runoff. A friend of mine planted her strip with heavily mulched native plants. Another good water use is using drip irrigation to water your flower beds. If you haven’t set up your drip irrigation system, do it now. There are books and pamphlets that tell you how to put it in. Running it can be as simple as turning on your hose for a certain amount of time, or even hooking up a timer which will turn on the hose for you. Another water saver is to use mulch wherever you can and to pull up weeds. Mulch reduces moisture loss from the soil. Weeds compete against your plants and lawn for water. Remember to keep your trees watered this summer. Apply slowly running water at the drip line of the tree, than move the hose around the tree. An easier way is to take 15 gallon buckets, drill an eighth inch hole at one side very close to the bottom, place on the tree’s drip line, and fill with water. The water runs slowly out and waters the tree.

May 2012 Q & A: Why do Mexican lime leaves curl? What is available in farmers’ markets now? What summer flowers to plant now? How to deter critters from eating my fruit and vegetables?

Mexican Sunflower

Q: What is causing my Mexican lime leaves to curl? A: Both Aggie-horticulture and a University of Florida website suggest aphid damage. Control for this is a strong water spray, or a spray of insecticidal soap. Both websites agree that the damage is not serious. My Mexican lime also has leaf curl. I’ve sprayed and will spray again in two weeks. Remember that aphids pierce the leaves and feed on the plant sap. Another possibility is citrus leaf miner damage. However, you should be able to see the squiggly lines in the leaf. Control for leaf miner is a spray of horticulture oil which will interfere with the fly’s ability to lay eggs into the leaf, but remember how hot it is here. You could burn your leaves. As with everything else, read the directions on the bottle first before you use it and follow the directions. Q: I would like to buy local Texas fruit and vegetables as much as possible. What produce is available in May? A: Much of the produce is available for several months. I know that my blueberries are getting ripe now and I will have them into June. Other fruits available in May are blackberries, peaches, plums and strawberries. Vegetables include green beans, cabbage, cantaloupe, sweet corn, cucumber, greens, honeydew, onions, southern pea, peppers, potato, tomato and watermelon. My tomatoes are quite large, but still green. My squash is half size. I am still harvesting Swiss chard and almost all of my herbs. Q: What flowers should go in now that will do well over the summer? A: My favorites include cosmos and tithonia (Mexican sunflower). Other warm season flowers include marigold, periwinkles, Portulaca, Purslane, salvia, petunias, sunflowers, verbena, and, of course, another one of my favorites, zinnias. Q: In past years squirrels and other animals and insects ate my figs and other fruit and vegetables. What can I do this year? A: Buy fruit netting and drape it over the tree or plant, down to the ground. Overlap the edges. I keep my blueberry bushes well covered because one year we watched a mockingbird sit in a bush and eat one after another of the ripe blueberries. For insects and cutworms, the best defense is hand collection (this is assuming you have a small garden). Every morning when I take out my kitchen scraps for the compost, I walk up and down the rows of vegetables checking for bugs and worms. I actually tried using a row cover when I planted this spring. This did not work because my cat thought it was a cat hammock and collapsed it over the plants. If you must use a pesticide, Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says to use the least toxic, effective pesticide labeled for the job. (Read the bottle and follow the directions.) In fact, start with a strong spray of water. A lot of those bugs get washed off and can’t find their way back.

April 2012 Q & A:  Best fertilizer for gardenia? Fragrant vines for our region? How to eliminate grass burs in lawn? Best mowing height for turf? What is critical garden task this month?

March 2012 Q & A:  When to fertilize trees?  Best flower trees for our region?  Should I use weed-n-feed products on my turf grass?

Q: Should I be fertilizing my trees? A: According to Doug Welsh, professor and extension horticulturist, yes you should. He suggests applying a granular fertilizer in late winter following a formula of one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of area covered by the tree canopy or shrub planting. He follows this with a second application in mid spring if the plant growth is not significant. If you are using urea (45-0-0)), you need 2 pounds of nitrogen fertilizer to get 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If you are using ammonium sulfate (21-0-0), you need 5 pounds of nitrogen fertilizer to get 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet. Blood meal (14-0-0), 7 pounds; bat guano (10-0-0), 10 pounds. Welsh says to apply the fertilizer evenly around the tree and then water it in to a depth of at least 6 inches to drive the nitrogen down to the feeding-root system. Q: I love the flowering trees that we are seeing this spring. What types will grow in the Seguin area so that I can plant them for next year? A: That rich dark green tree with purple clusters that smell like grape Kool-Aid is a Texas mountain laurel or Sophora secundiflora. It really grows well here (although slowly) without many problems or pests (the Genista moth larvae is one pest). Both the Eastern redbud and the Mexican redbud grow here. The Eastern (Cercis Canadensis) is best adapted to the eastern half of Texas, although I have one in my backyard that is about 20 feet high and blooms every year. The Mexican (Cercis Canadensis var. Mexicana) is more of a shrub. I love the glossy foliage after it has finished blooming. It has bloomed every year for me ever since it was a baby. The Mexican plum (Prunus Mexicana) and the Mexican buckeye (Ungnadia speciosa) are both natives that do well here. I have one of each and both grow and bloom although mine aren’t particularly showy. I think it is because they are both in too much shade. Q: I am getting ready to buy my spring fertilizer and have been looking at the weed-and-feed types. Are they okay for my lawn? A: Most of the literature on the Texas A&M aggie-horticulture website say to never use weed-and-feed because of the possible damage to your ornamentals and because you would use it before the appropriate time. The time to apply pre-emergent herbicides to kill weeds here is in late winter; the time to fertilize is not until we are well into spring after your second or third mowing when the grass is actively growing. Apply herbicides separately and specific to the weed to be controlled and the turf grass in which weeds are growing. Weed and feed type products can stress some turf grasses, especially St. Augustine, and can damage tree roots, particularly young trees. Remember, broad leaf herbicides cannot differentiate between broad leaf weeds and your landscape trees and shrubs.

February 2012  Q & A:  Which Fruit Trees grow in our region and can I plant now?  What should I be doing in the garden/yard this month?

Q: Is it too late to plant fruit trees? A: You can still plant fruit trees. All the nurseries have them available. If you are having trouble making up your mind as to which type to plant, here is a list from Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac. He ranks fruit crops from the least to the most difficult to grow: blackberries, blueberries (in East Texas, or here if you want to plant them in large containers of peat), figs, citrus, pears, pecans, grapes, persimmons, apples, plums, and peaches. Welsh takes a number of factors into account: their adaptation to Texas soils, winter chilling requirements, varieties adapted to our climate, susceptibility to insects and diseases, ease of pest management, and the need for specialized training and pruning techniques. Personally, I’ve had lots of trouble with peach trees, while my fig, pear, and blueberries are practically trouble free. Make sure when you buy your tree to ask the nursery man how many chilling hours the tree requires and whether we get that many here. Chilling hours are the number of hours during which temperatures are below 45 degrees F. and above 32 degrees F. The chilling hours are needed for the tree to end its dormancy and have proper blooming and spring growth. Bexar County’s David Rodriguez says to look for varieties that take 550 to 650 chilling hours. The January 26 San Antonio paper announced that the USDA is changing its planting zone map because the country is warmer now. This will, no doubt, change the chilling zone chart also, so when you buy, keep down closer to the 550 range for chilling hour requirements. Q: What can I do in my garden in February? A: In my garden, you could pull weeds. Somehow henbit and clover is all over the place this year. Mow winter weeds in your lawn. This helps reduce their spread and improves the lawn for spring. We’ve been going around after this last rain pulling up dandelions. Don’t forget: before things get too busy in your garden, put in drip irrigation. You will be glad you did. February is also pruning month. Trees, shrubs, and vines need to be fertilized this month also. Remember that February can be very cold so keep an eye on your cold sensitive plants. For the first two weeks of February last year, the temperature was in the twenties every night and some days did not get over thirty. You should try seeds from one of the heritage seed companies. I have an order coming in this week with varieties I haven’t grown before, which I will plant inside so that the small herb and vegetables plants will be ready for my March garden.

January 2012 Q & A:  Which Pine Trees grow in our region?  What are the blue flowers that attract butterflies at Walnut Springs Park?

Afghan Pine

Q:  I grew up in Houston and I miss all those pine trees.  Are there any types of pine trees that will grow in the Seguin area? A:  I have an eight year old Aleppo pine that is about 50 feet tall and is doing quite well.  I bought it from a local nursery in 2003 as a potted Christmas tree.  After Christmas, I planted it in the ground in an area of sandy loam.  I haven’t done much to it except for watering and spraying for red spider once in a while.  The Texas Forest Service says that it tolerates salty soil or sea-spray, drought and alkaline soils. When I searched the aggie-horticulture website for pine trees, an article on growing Christmas trees in Texas appeared.  The two major varieties listed were Pinus virginia (Virginia pine) and the Pinus eldarica (Afghan pine), but only the Afghan pine is recommended for alkaline soils.  This tree is fast growing and will not tolerate wet sites so should be good for here. Other drought tolerant pines are the Mexican pinyon (Pinus cembroides) and the Pinyon pine (Pinus edulis).  Both tolerate alkaline soils but grow slowly.  They are both Texas natives.  The Lost Pines of Bastrop are Loblolly pines (Pinus taeda).  Possibly you could try growing one here as the tree also tolerates a wide range of site conditions and is a Texas native.

Gregg’s Mist

Q:  I was impressed by the number of butterflies at Walnut Springs Park this summer and fall.  They seemed to be all over the plants with the blue flowers.  What were these plants?  I’d like to have them in my yard. A:  These plants were Conoclinium greggii or Eupatorium greggii which is also called Gregg’s mist flower or blue mist flower or palm leaf mist flower (according to the Wildflower Center’s website wildflower.org).  They certainly do attract butterflies (lots of Queen butterflies in the fall), and they act as larval hosts for Rawsons Metalmarks.  This plant in the Aster family blooms from March through November.  It is a good ground cover and spreads easily by the roots.  This Texas native is xeriscapic, salt tolerant, perennial, evergreen and has a high heat tolerance. Another plant that you might wish to plant in your yard for butterflies is the Echinacea purpurea or Purple Coneflower.  Echinacea is an evergreen perennial, a Texas native, deer resistant, xeriscapic, and will grow in full sun, and partial shade.  It has high heat tolerance and low water requirements.  Mine bloomed all spring through fall. The Mexican Butterfly Weed (Asclepias curassavica) is a larval host plant for the Monarch butterfly.  The larvae strip the leaves, but the plant does re-leaf.  This is another heat tolerant, low water plant that does well in our area. December 2011 Q & A:  What to gift the gardener who has everything? Can a live Christmas tree be transplanted to the yard? Q: What can I buy for the gardener who has everything? A: Personally, I can never have too many amaryllis plants. Right now in the stores you can buy a planted bulb that has already started to grow. If you want to do it yourself, buy the bulb as well as a pretty pot. Put the bulb in good potting soil with the pointy end of the bulb sticking up out of the soil about one inch. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says that when you add water and bright indoor light, the plant growth will begin. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. Add a bow and you have a lovely present. Another garden gift that I’d like is a shaped rosemary tree. Every fall I remind myself to start growing a Christmas tree-shaped rosemary; every year I forget. Next year, though, I will. To do it yourself, just buy a small rosemary plant and keep shaping it with shears until it looks the way you want it. Give it as a gift and tell the recipient to plant the rosemary outside after the holidays. Perhaps the person you are buying for would like “labor” instead of a gift. Every gardener would be happy receiving “one week of weeding” or the “installation of drip irrigation” or the “building of a compost bin.” Q: Will my live Christmas tree transplant into my yard after Christmas? A: It depends on the variety of tree. A Norfolk Island pine will not do well here. According to Doug Welsh, it will burn in the summer and freeze in the winter. A friend of mine grew one in Kingsville and it did quite well. However, it was shielded by the house and shaded partly by surrounding trees. Seven years ago I had a living Christmas tree that was an Aleppo pine. It is now forty feet tall and seems to love the climate in Seguin. It does get red spider, though, and as it gets taller, it is getting harder and harder to spray. Doug Welsh recommends Nellie R. Stevens’ holly for our area, although I would think that holly would be too prickly for the house and for covering with ornaments. Other trees he recommends are the Arizona cypress, both the Deodar cedar and Eastern red cedar, Eldarica pine, Italian stone pine, and Leyland cypress. Several things should be remembered about having live trees in the house. First, keep your tree in the brightest natural light possible. Next, check the soil moisture every day with your finger. The soil should be moist but not saturated. Third, plant the tree outside as soon as possible (do not keep inside more than two or three weeks). The tree will then have the rest of the winter to get ready for our hot summer.

November 2011 Q & A:  Are Camellias an appropriate choice for the Seguin area?

A:  According to Dr. William Welch, an AgriLife horticulturist, camellias are best grown in the eastern third of Texas.  There you get the best combination of acid soil, rainfall and temperature. Even there, camellias are likely to require more attention to watering, mulching and soil amendment than some gardeners are willing to provide.  He suggests that if you really want camellias, grow them as container plants in a soil mix that is about 1/2 sphagnum peat moss, 1/4 sharp builder’s sand, and 1/4 compost.  A friend of mine in Seguin does manage to grow a camellia on the north side of her house.  We conjecture that the surrounding oak trees provide oak leaf mulch which helps acidify the soil.  However, you are better off to plant shrubs that do well in this area such as Burford holly Earth Kind roses, cherry laurel, Texas mountain laurel, possumhaw, yaupon holly, and Texas sage or cenizo.  You can research shrubs on the website http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ Texas Sage is valued for its outstanding gray-green to silver-gray foliage and purple-pink flowers.  After that last rain we had, you can really spot the cenizo.  Some shrubs are just covered with flowers.  This semi-evergreen shrub is adapted to usage in much of the southern two thirds of Texas.  Occasional pruning will enhance the canopy density.  Be sure to plant cenizo in a well drained area because it is frequently killed by kindness (over irrigation).  The aggie-horticulture website says the shrub tends to become leggy with age.  My neighbor had good luck trimming his ten year old leggy cenizo.  Another friend left her sage leggy and shaped it like a large bonsai.  Both look fine.  Cenizo has high heat tolerance, low water requirements, high pest resistance and low fertilizer requirements. Burford holly is planted across my front windows.  The shrubs have glossy, dark green foliage.  Jerry Parsons describes the shrub as a very popular and widely used landscape holly which produces an excellent crop of berries each year.  Burford holly grows quite large, often reaching 10 to 15 feet, which makes my husband unhappy as he has to prune frequently (this, of course, is an occasion where researching and preplanning the location would have been better).  Plant out away from your house or plant a shorter variety. Earth Kind roses and antique roses make popular shrubs.  Many of the varieties such as Mutabilis (four to six feet high) look very nice as free-standing shrubs.  The nice thing about Earth Kind roses and antique roses is the easy care and fewer insect or disease problems.  Mine are almost care free except for deadheading and pruning.

October 2011 Q & A:  Root-knot nematodes.

Q:  I’m afraid that I have nematodes.  My tomatoes and okra did not do well this spring and when I pulled them up, there were nodules all over the roots.  What should I do now? A:  As you have discovered, tomatoes and okra can be very susceptible to nematodes.  Crops that may be severely damaged are tomato, pepper, okra, watermelon, cantaloupe, onion, pumpkin, squash, sweet potato, sweet corn, carrot, eggplant, bean and pea.  Root-knot nematodes also feed and multiply on many garden weeds (which you need to know so that you can keep your garden free of weeds). According to the University of Arkansas Extension Service, certain varieties of common garden crops can be resistant to root-knot nematodes. So when you buy tomato plants, pepper plants, okra seed, bean seed or pea seed, read the variety label to see if it says anything about nematode resistance. The label may list the capital letters VFN. These letters indicate that the variety has resistance to certain diseases: V = Verticillium wilt resistant; F = Fusarium wilt resistant; and N = root-knot nematode resistant. The nematode resistance gene tends to be less effective during hot weather, when the southern root-knot nematode is the most active. Although resistant varieties will perform better than susceptible varieties under these conditions, early planting would help. After cleanliness (don’t move soil from one garden to another; clean tools between gardens), there are several actions you can take.  Rotate crops.  Broccoli and cauliflower can lower root knot numbers.  French marigolds can help.  Keep garden weed free.  Solarize garden (although that, to me, is a last resort as it kills everything).  Increase the organic matter in the soil as this encourages the growth of numerous fungi, bacteria and beneficial nematodes and provides some level of biological control for root-knot nematodes. I am growing Elbon or cereal rye this year in one of my vegetable beds that is overrun with root-knot nematodes.  Seed can be found at local nurseries and co-ops.  Elbon rye is a trap crop.  According to Jerry Parsons in “Cereal Rye for Nematode Control,” once nematodes enter the cereal rye roots, they cannot escape and are doomed. When cereal rye decomposes, it releases organic acids and stimulates soil microorganisms which further reduce the nematode population.  Sow seed on top of the garden soil and rake in at the rate of 3/4 to 1 pound per hundred square feet of garden area to insure good coverage and adequate growth. Be sure to water regularly and lightly fertilize every three weeks to encourage maximum growth.  What you are striving for is the root system rather than the top foliage. Mow or shred (weed eater) the cereal rye before it forms seed heads and till in one month before planting your spring garden so the massive root system will have adequate time to decompose.  Good Luck!

August 2011 Q & A: Is that a Mexican Sunflower?; What vegetables can I plant in Sept.?; How do I salvage my Basil?

Q:  What is that lovely plant I see with the yellow orange flowers and the big sunflower leaves?  I want to grow it in my garden next year. A:  You are describing the Mexican Sunflower, Tithonia rotundiflora.  You are correct in describing it as lovely.  Every few years I grow these plants.  They did real well in Kingsville, and do real well in Seguin.  The only problem is that this warm season annual grows four to six feet tall and is three feet wide.  This worked out for me this summer because most of my south bed was empty.  The Tithonia is really great as a cut flower because with its hollow stem, it lasts a long time in a vase of water.  Be careful when you cut the stems so that they don’t bend or collapse.  Aggie-horticulture says to sear the stem, but I do not. Tithonia is propagated by seed and requires full sun.  The Floridata website says that it will tolerate filtered sun or partial shade.  Supposedly dwarf cultivars are available but I haven’t seen them in local stores.  Local stores carry Burpee’s “Torch” seeds, an All-America Winner. According to the website aggie-horticulture, this plant has a very high heat tolerance and low water requirements which makes it great for here.  It does get killed by the first frost (our first actual freeze last year was November 27 with 29 degrees), but by then I’m ready for a different cut flower (and the Tithonia reseeds so you will have seeds for next year). Q:  Is it too late to plant tomatoes? A:  It is for seeds.  Usually for transplants, the recommendation is the month of July.  However, I went on vacation during August and didn’t want to leave small plants for my neighbor to bother with.  I planted large transplants the last week of August so I imagine if you can find large transplants now, you can still plant them.  You will probably have to protect them during the first frost or two with row cover. Q:  What else can be planted in September? A:  Many vegetables (San Antonio part of the country) have September planting dates.  Bush beans (before September 10), beets, broccoli and cabbage transplants, carrots, chard, collards, garlic, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, parsley, southern peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, summer squash (August is better), and turnips.  If you live in South Texas and Laredo, you can plant a little later and be fine. Q:  My basil keeps trying to produce flowers, but I want more leaves.  Help! A:  According to the herb lady Ann McCormick, cut three nodes down below the flower to shock the plant out of flower mode.  Don’t forget to cut a few stems before the first frost and place in a vase on your window sill.  It will quickly root and you will have leaves for cooking all winter (and can replant it in the spring).

August 2011 Q & A: How to Water Trees, Citrus Greening Concerns, Oops! Poison Ivy

Q:  As this drought continues, I am really worried about my large trees.  What should I be doing? A: If you’ve let the tree decline too much, there isn’t much that can be done to reverse the dying process.  However, if you catch the problem soon enough, you can save your trees through watering, fertilizing, and by removing surrounding weeds and grass which compete for water. Early signs of damage, according to AgriLife Extension Service’s Kathy Fiebig, are yellowing leaves and premature leaf drop all over the crown of the tree.  As the damage gets worse, leaves will die from the bottom of the tree upward, and from the inside of the canopy outward.  On some of my shrubs, the leaves wilt and burn along the edges.  If you are counting on lawn watering to maintain your trees, that is not enough.  Fiebig suggests giving 28 gallons of water a week to small one-year-old trees, 56 gallons a week to two-year-old trees and 112 gallons a week to three-year-old trees.  (I’ve been giving 60 gallons every two weeks to my older trees in addition to lawn watering.)  AgriLife Horticulturist Marty Baker recommends applying water in a donut-shaped pattern starting about five feet from the base of medium to large trees, out to about five feet beyond the tree’s drip line. Fiebig warns that trees already stressed by the drought can be killed by a heavy application of herbicide in the root zone.  Avoid soil-activated herbicides around trees. For future reference, you may want a list of drought tolerant plants.  A good one is found in Aggie-horticulture:  http://www.plantanswers.com/drought_tolerance_plants.htm. Q:  I’ve been hearing about the disease Citrus Greening and am worried about the insects I see around my citrus tree.  Could I have Asian citrus psyllids? A: First of all, go to www.SaveOurCitrus.org to learn about the disease.  It has not been found around Guadalupe County yet, but we should all be alert.  Not all of the gnat-sized Asian citrus psyllids carry the disease-causing bacteria, but they can still damage citrus plants and trees by stunting the growth of new shoots.  If you suspect the disease, contact the State Department of Agriculture.  Do not transport citrus plants.  Another website: www.aphis.usda.gov/plant_health/plant_pest_info/citrus_greening/index.shtml. Q: I just accidentally touched a poison ivy plant and would like you to give your readers information on what to do immediately after exposure. A: Within the first ten minutes, clean your skin with isopropyl alcohol (when this happened to me I used hand sanitizer containing ethyl alcohol.  Maybe I was just lucky).  Wash your skin with cold water (hot opens the pores).  Shower with soap and warm water.  Wipe your clothes, shoes, and tools with alcohol and water.  This information from the Texas Workers’ Compensation Commission is quoted in Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac.

July 2011 Q & A:  Which Plants Thrive in Dry Conditions?

Q:  As dry as it’s been lately, with very little rain, I’m beginning to wonder if I should change my landscape plants to those that will better withstand dry conditions.  Which plants seem to be holding up the best? A: A number of the grasses are doing quite well.  My Mexican feather grass is lovely and is spreading all over my front bed (and part of my lawn).  That said, remember that it is considered an invasive in California and could get to be so in my front lawn.  You can control it by cutting off the seed heads and by cutting back on the water. Other grasses not invasive include Lindheimer’s Muhly (clumps two to five feet tall), and green and burgundy fountain grass (survives and multiplies with six to twelve inches of annual rainfall). In my neighbor’s front lawn out by the road is a big patch of Pride of Barbados, Caesalpinia pulcherrima.  It freezes to the ground in the winter, but faithfully comes back every spring.  The flowers are beautiful and it seems to hold up with very little water. My hamelia patens (Mexican firebush) also freezes to the ground in the winter, but comes up every spring.  I do not water it and it is lovely.  Doug Welsh says that in addition to its long blooming season, there are several other significant attributes of the plant. It is very drought tolerant and thrives in most any soil as long as it is well-drained. My heirloom roses are growing well.  As long as I remember to dead head them, they just keep blooming. Friends have mentioned that their purple cone flower (Echinacea) is surviving the heat as well as blooming.  Aggie-horticulture considers this perennial to be robust and drought tolerant, and it is native to the Midwestern and southeastern United States.  It prefers full sun to partial shade in fertile, well-drained soils.  It works well as a cut flower. Texas sage, Leucophyllum frutescens, or Cenizo, according to Aggie-horticulture’s Texas Native Plants Database is one of our most outstanding native plants.  This medium-sized compact shrub has delicate silvery to gray-green leaves, and displays of purple blooms from summer into fall (assuming it rains).  Flowering is triggered by humidity or high soil moisture after rains.   Overwatering or poor drainage will quickly kill the shrub, and shade will promote leggy growth and less flowering. Aggie-horticulture lists the Russian sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia, as a low water use shrub for El Paso.  It also does well here.  The perennial grows three to four feet tall and three feet wide.  It has high heat tolerance.

June 2011 Q & A:  Tomato Plant Problems, Methods for Watering Trees

Q:  My tomato plants are not setting fruit.  Why? A: According to AgriLife Extension Horticulture Specialist Nancy Roe, there are several factors that could cause this.  First, above a certain temperature (85 to 95 degrees) tomato pollen becomes sterile.  Next, when it is hot during the day, photosynthesis slows.  Then when we have warm nights and rapid rates of respiration, carbohydrates are used up leaving the plant with not much left to make fruit. Q:  My tomatoes have deteriorated at the blossom end of the fruit.  I was told it was blossom end rot.  What causes this? A: Basically, blossom end rot is a disorder caused by calcium deficiency induced by water stress.  In other words, the calcium doesn’t get to the end of the fruit because of a temporary water shortage.  This is why it is so important that you water evenly.  Be consistent and prevent fluctuations in moisture levels.  I’ve found that putting in drip irrigation was the key.  I have one pot that requires me to remember to water; consequently, that tomato is usually wilted before I remember.  Whereas, the ones in my raised bed on drip irrigation get watered with a gallon of water on a regular schedule.  According to Aggie-horticulture, liquid fertilization using calcium nitrate can be used for small plots.  My organic tomato fertilizer actually has calcium nitrate in its formulation.  Another way to help retain your soil moisture is to mulch.  According to the website, blossom end rot can happen to any of the fruiting vegetables. Q: Now that the weather is really warm, is there anything I should know about watering my trees?  I certainly don’t want to lose any. A: Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac reminds us that laying a hose at the trunk of a large tree and letting it run for hours is not the way to water.  When you are irrigating trees and large shrubs, apply the water just inside and a little beyond the drip line.  This is the area directly below the outer reaches of the branches (which is where the feeding root system of a tree or shrub is located).  His suggestion is to lay a slowly running hose on the ground and move it around the drip line as each area becomes saturated to a depth of eight to ten inches.  Since this means your hose runs for several hours for large trees, I prefer using large buckets with a quarter inch hole drilled near the bottom.  I use several around a tree and fill them with water.  The water runs out slowly and saturates the ground.

May 2011 Q & A:  Gardening in Dry Conditions, Soil Testing, Applying Insecticides

Q: The small immature fruit is falling off of my squash plants. What is happening? A: My first response is to ask whether you are being uneven in your watering—either letting the plant get too dry or too wet. Then I started researching. Several sources (including Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening by Garrett and Beck) mention fruits shriveling or failing to enlarge caused by lack of pollination. This can be caused by honeybees not being active because of cloudy, wet weather, pesticides or mites, or even lack of honeybees in your area. The suggestion is to transfer pollen with a swab or small brush. The male flower does not have a small fruit looking thing behind it. The female flower does. Obviously, this solution will not appeal to you if you have a hundred plants. Q: I have just moved into a new house and know nothing about the soil? Where do I get my soil tested? How do I prepare a soil sample to send? A: Your AgriLife County Extension Office has forms and directions on how to do a soil test and where to send it. I did one this past year and was really amazed at the amount of phosphorus and potassium in my soil. The suggestion from the lab was for me to only fertilize with nitrogen for the next five years. Prepare your soil sample by following some basic steps. To get a representative sample of your yard, use a clean shovel and sample the soil from 10 random areas to a depth of six inches. (Keep away from under the eaves, brush piles, or manure or compost piles). Place the samples in a clean plastic bucket and mix them thoroughly. Then place about a pint of the mixed soil into a soil sample bag (or a zipper-locked bag that is double bagged). Then mail to the address on the form. Q: Is there a good time during the day to spray my natural insecticide? I do not want to harm any bees. A: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, spraying should be done in the early morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the time when bees are active. Also, be sure that you know which direction the wind is blowing so that you can stay out of the spray. No matter how safe you think something is, you do not want to breathe it or have it on your skin. I can remember spraying with a homemade concoction that I had been assured was safe for me and bad for bugs. I accidentally inhaled, and coughed on and off for hours. Remember: before you use anything, read the label—the entire label. Q: What should I be doing about my plants during the drought? A: Now is a great time to mulch. You should also be thinking about setting up a drip irrigation system. I did so in my vegetable garden; it works great and doesn’t waste water.

April 2011 Q & A:  What to Do About Bare Tree Roots in the Lawn, Which Hardwood Mulch is Best

Q:  Tree roots from my front yard tree are sticking up out of my lawn.  Can I cover them with soil, or will that kill the tree (or the grass)? A: According to Doug Welsh on the Aggie Horticulture website, when soil or any type of fill is placed over the existing root system, it causes a reduction in the oxygen supply to the tree roots and slows down the rate of gas exchange between the roots and the air in the soil pore space and can kill the tree over time.  This, of course, all depends on the type of tree, the depth and type of fill, the drainage, and the vigor of the tree.  It won’t hurt at all to put a half-inch layer of compost around the tree. Another question about tree roots on top of the ground was about the feasibility of removing them.  In Aggie-Horticulture, there were a number of answers about different types of trees, but basically they said the same thing.  You should not remove the roots, or if you do be very careful.  One answer was that this is normal for some varieties of trees and root removal could damage the tree.  Over a period of time minor roots could be removed a few at a time but not major ones. Another answer said that it was unusual for roots of a live oak to come to the surface, but they could be removed one a year.  And again, I’m assuming that means minor roots. Removal of red bud tree roots is not recommended because the tree is prone to borers. Removal of Arizona ash tree roots that are lying on top of the ground can be done, but again only one root a year. Now, after all this, what can you do with those roots that stick up where your lawn mower can injure them?  I just don’t know.  The only thing I can think of is to enlarge the width of the mulch layer around the tree.  My mulch layer comes out to the edge of the tree umbrella. Q:  Will cypress mulch work as well as hardwood type mulch? A: Bark chips are long lasting and break down slowly.  Cypress breaks down more slowly than pine bark, but it does break down.  When mulch is shredded, it breaks down faster and helps maintain uniform soil temperatures.  Cypress does not seem to float away when (and if) it rains, and, of course, it is cheaper.  My favorite mulch is cedar because of the smell.  I like putting it on the beds by my front door so that every time I open the door, I smell fresh cedar.  My theory which is not really research based is that the smell helps deter bugs.

March 2011 Q & A:  When to Fertilize, Container Gardening, Get the Kids Involved, When to Prune

Q:  When do I apply fertilizer? A: Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says to apply after you have mowed the lawn grass twice.  This is to show that the grass is actively growing and needs the fertilizer.  You might also consider an application of compost to your yard.  Have you done a soil test?  Forms and directions are available from your county AgriLife Extension agent. Q:  I do not have room for a vegetable garden, but I really want fresh vegetables.  What can I do? A: Buy some large pots or tubs (with drainage holes).  These can be placed where they will get 6 to 8 hours of sun a day.  Even if you only have room for one pot, you can have a tomato plant.  Cherry tomatoes or Juliet tomatoes are especially nice.  I have several smaller pots on my patio this spring.  One has pineapple mint and the other has rosemary.  They are close enough to the kitchen that I don’t even have to walk down the hill to my garden.  I do have a suggestion that I have learned through trial and error.  Place the pots on something that weeds cannot come through.  I had a terrible time with my potted blueberry plants eradicating the Bermuda grass that came in through the drainage holes. Q:  I would like to get my grandchildren interested in gardening.  How do I go about this? A: If you already have a garden, you have a great opportunity.  Let them plant a row of carrots.  Every time they come over, they will run out and check to see how big they are.  This past weekend I bought a six pack of tomatoes.  When the grandchildren came, they helped me find one gallon pots, than helped fill the pots with soil.  Finally, we took each tomato and put it in a pot, than the kids filled soil in around the plant.  They then watered each plant (and when they left my house, they took a pot home with them.)  My pots will go into the ground when I am sure freezing weather is over.  Until then they are sitting in the sun growing, or covered on the porch when there is a freeze.  This past year, my grandson planted a corn seed in one of my porch pots.  It sprouted and eventually made a very small ear of corn.  He was perfectly thrilled and checked it every time he came to visit. Q:   Can I prune now? A: I have started, but remember that a late freeze may nip the new growth on your plants.  Some plants can be taken back to the ground.  My hamelia (Firebush) usually sprouts fairly late so it is perfectly safe to prune now.  I have started on my rose bushes, but it usually takes me a long time to finish pruning.

February 2011 Q & A:  When and How to Plant Potatoes

Q:  When can I plant potatoes? I heard on the MG garden show about planting them in bushel baskets and I’d like to give it a try. A: There are many different answers to the “when.”  Traditionally we plant on Washington’s birthday, February 22.  Another source says Valentine’s Day.  Texas A&M says to plant from February to March in Central Texas in order to harvest potatoes from May to June.  Garrett and Beck in Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening say that the official dates are two to three weeks before the last frost, in other words, February 7 to March 15.  And still another source says to plant on the full moon (February 18 or March 19).  So at this point you can pretty well make your own choice. Now that we are ready to plant, you need to determine the location.  Do not plant in an area where you grew any members of the nightshade family this past year.  That means not to grow where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers and eggplant were growing.  Rotating your crop families helps to alleviate recurring diseases and pests.  Don’t forget to plant in full sun.  For our area, Dr. Jerry Parsons and David Rodriguez recommend planting Kennebec and White Cobbler for white potatoes, Red LaSoda and Red Pontiac for red potatoes, and Norgold for Russett potatoes.  Use seed potatoes rather than grocery store potatoes as the store ones may have been treated so they won’t sprout. Either use the whole potato (if small) or cut into 2 to 3 ounce pieces (the size of a golf ball) with at least one eye.  Let the pieces dry out a bit or callous over.  Several authorities dust with dusting sulfur.  I just let mine callous last year and they did fine.   For bushel basket planting, I cut out the bottom of a bushel basket (or a large pot) and placed in my garden.  Then I placed my cut piece of potato on top of the garden soil.  I then added nice soil to cover the potato (actually I added some of my very own made compost that had completely broken down).  As the sprouts grew, I kept adding more soil around them until the basket was almost full.  Remember that tubers form laterally from the stem. In 90 to 120 days the tops will die back and yellow, and you can harvest the potatoes.  For storing, only wipe off the potatoes and do not wash them.  If you are not sure when to pick potatoes, you can do what I did.  I gently lifted the basket and felt around in the loose soil to see what size the potatoes were (also you can go ahead and pick a few small ones for dinner).

January 2011 Q & A:  Lady Bugs; January Garden Tasks

Q:  What are those bugs that look like ladybugs but are not red with black spots?  One of them bit me. A: They are also probably lady bugs (also called Lady Beetles or Ladybird Beetles).  There are 200 species in North America and most are beneficial predators (except for the Mexican bean beetle and the squash beetle).  Some are black with red spots, gray with black spots, orange with black spots, yellow with black spots.  I have seen quite a few lately all over including my house.  I did have one on my arm that “bit” me, although the bite was very light and hardly noticeable, probably more of a “nip.” (This was probably from the Asian Lady Beetle.) Lady beetles feed on aphids, mites, and other soft-bodied insect pests.  To encourage the beetles, do not spray a poison on your garden that will kill all of the good and bad bugs.  One of your New Year’s resolutions according to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac is this:  “I will use a pesticide only when absolutely necessary, and if I do, I will use the least toxic one.” Q:  What should I be doing in the garden in January? A: Clean up your vegetable garden.  Get rid of weeds and old plants on the ground between the rows.  Many pests overwinter in your garden.  After pulling my tomatoes, I mixed chopped orange peels into the soil where the tomato plants were planted (for nematodes).  Cut your asparagus to the ground and mulch.  Don’t prune freeze-damaged stems of perennial flowers, because they will provide some insulation for the rest of the plant.  I usually wait before pruning frozen plants because many times I’ve been fooled.  The plant was still fine, although the leaves had frozen.  Plant your spring-flowering bulbs now.  You may have to mow your winter weeds so that they don’t take over your lawn.  I notice that my bur clover is particularly happy this winter.  I can’t spray it because it is interspersed with blue bonnets, so I guess I’ll have to dig it up. Remember that the birds are having a dry winter, so keep those bird baths filled.  I’m even having a possum coming on to my porch to drink water out of the fountain.  Both squirrels and possums are stealing bird seed. Don’t forget to water and fertilize your winter vegetables.  I harvested a large head of broccoli today, and will water later on.  My second row of lettuce already needs thinning, plus I need to transplant the larkspur out of the lettuce.  This is also a good time of year to plan for the spring, which includes perusing seed catalogs (at my house, they are arriving by the armloads).  I have already decided that I would like to try a large container of orange mint growing by my back door.

December 2010 Q & A:  Tomatoes; Nematodes

Q:  I just pulled up my tomato plants because a freeze was coming and they weren’t doing well anyway.  The roots were covered with knots.  What can be done about root knot nematodes? A: Root knot nematodes can be identified by the swollen roots with galls.   These nematodes are small worm-like animals that live in the soil and feed on the roots.  Another hint that you might have root knot nematodes is that the infected plants are stunted, yellow, not vigorous, and look like they are declining.  Aggie-horticulture, in their section on tomato root disorders, says that the root knot nematode is very difficult to control, but does give several suggestions.  (The overall website is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu.) First, use crop rotation with a non-susceptible species.  This means that you should not plant tomatoes in the same spot year after year (or in the same spot as cotton or okra).  Secondly, make sure you buy tomato varieties that are resistant.  In the nursery, look at the tag and make sure you are getting tomatoes that have an N on the label. The Earth Kind section of Aggie-horticulture suggests that if you have a large garden area infected with root knot nematodes, plant Elbon rye (cereal rye) in the fall.  This fast growing, cold tolerant, annual grass  actually is a trap crop for nematodes.  Once the nematodes enter the cereal rye roots, they can’t escape and are doomed.  Apply three-fourth to one pound of seed per one hundred square feet of garden.  Shred and till the Elbon grass into your garden one month before planting the spring garden.  This will give the grass time to decompose.  (Don’t let the cereal rye form seed heads.  You don’t want the seeds to sprout in your garden.) Malcolm Beck and Howard Garrett list several other ways to control nematodes in their books “Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening” and “Texas Bug Book, The Good the Bad and the Ugly.”  Beck and Garrett suggest increasing the organic level in the soil by using organic fertilizers and by applying products to increase the soil’s microbial activity.  They say that citrus pulp or liquid will completely control root knot nematodes.  I probably am not going to grind up citrus peelings, but I think I will try another of their suggestions which is using cedar flakes or chips as a one-inch mulch around my tomato plants.  One of his reasons as to why this helps control nematodes is that there are several fungi that attack nematodes.  These beneficial fungi need a fertile, aerated, balanced soil with a supply of carbon to use as energy.  Hence the cedar flakes.  I like to use cedar as mulch anyway because it smells good, and I think the strong odor deters insects.

November 2010 Q & A:  When to Prune Citrus Trees; All About Asparagus

Q:  My citrus tree by the house is getting way too big.  When can I prune it? A: Our AgriLife Extension agent says to prune in the cold months.  Other sources within Aggie-Horticulture agree.  One says that the best time to hedge and top citrus is during the cooler months, after harvest but prior to bloom.  Another source says that all pruning on older trees should be done in January and February. Citrus trees are pruned primarily to control tree size and to remove dead, diseased or damaged wood.  Also, pruning trees of bearing age thins out thick growth which makes spraying and harvesting easier.  Another article on Texas citrus by a Dr. Boudreaux said that the removal of long vigorous growing shoots sticking up at the top of the tree will help to control the size of the tree. He says these shoots should be traced to where they originate on larger branches and cut off flush at the point of attachment.   He also suggests removing dead branches and branches that cross over each other, as well as branches that touch the ground (which makes it far easier to mow.) Pruning freeze damaged citrus is a different story.  These trees should not be pruned until the extent of cold damage has been determined. The damage may not be evident until July and August, after the second flush of growth. Pruning a freeze damaged tree consists of removing the dead wood to the point where the live wood starts. Q: How do I plant asparagus?  When do I cut asparagus? A: The Aggie-horticulture website under vegetables has a great print out on asparagus written by Dr. Jerry Parsons and Dr. Sam Cotner which starts by reminding us that asparagus grows better in cooler areas.  It does grow here, however, because my neighbor has a beautiful row.  Make sure your asparagus bed is in full sun and deep, well-drained soil.  Asparagus grows well in high-pH soils.    Before planting, till in 3 inches of manure or compost. Dig a furrow 4 inches wide and 4 to 12 inches deep.  Place the asparagus crowns 12 to 14 inches apart in the furrow.  Cover the plants in the furrow with 1 inch of compost topped by 2 to 3 inches of soil.  Firm the soil.  Then as the shoots grow, gradually fill the furrows.  By the end of the first season, the furrow should reach its normal level.  Once the beds are established (two years), the spears can be harvested. When you harvest them, snap them off at ground level when they are 4 to 10 inches long. If not harvested, the spears develop into fernlike stalks.  After the first hard frost or freeze of fall, cut off the fern tops at ground level and mulch the bed with manure.  As always, dispose of the tops because the asparagus beetle likes to spend the winter in the old ferns or trash in your garden.

Oct. 2010 Q & A: Iris Tips; Best Fruit Trees for Our Area

Q:  Why won’t my bearded iris bloom?  I’ve had them for several years and they still haven’t bloomed. A: Luckily, the Master Gardeners just heard Dr. JoNelle Zager speak on bearded iris.  One of the things she mentioned was that the plants should not be planted too deep.  A quarter-sized amount of the rhizome should actually show through the soil surface.  In my yard, I have two patches of bearded iris.  One patch blooms faithfully every year.  The other patch has never bloomed.  After Dr. Zager’s talk, I dug around each patch.  The plants that were blooming all had the top of the rhizome showing above the ground.  The other irises were about two inches below the top of the soil.  Another possibility is the amount of sun the plants are getting.  Dr. Zager says that the best sun is morning sun.  My blooming plants are on the east side of the bed and are shaded from the afternoon sun.  If you want to plant bearded iris, now is the time through early November in order to get blooms this next year; don’t forget bone meal for your existing plants. Q:  What kind of fruit trees can I plant in the Seguin area? A: I believe that this has been covered in this column before, but I will comment on some fruit trees that I like and that a worker at a local nursery likes.  First of all, fruit trees will be arriving at the end of January, beginning of February, so now is the time to do your location planning. (see Jan. 2010 Q &A for more info) Some of the following fruits I have not grown so will rely on the nursery employee’s recommendations as well as aggie-horticulture.  He likes the Rosborough blackberry and said that it is similar to Brazos, a long time favorite for this area.  He grows and likes Blenheim apricots.  He also suggests buying a Dorsett Golden apple with an Anna apple (for cross pollination).  Granny Smith is sold sometimes as a self pollinator but will set more fruit if grown with Gala, Golden Delicious, Jersey Mac or Mollies Delicious. Celeste is my favorite fig tree.  The employee says that White Everbearing fig is the best producer in our area followed by Black Mission. This season my Methley plum outdid itself and was absolutely covered with plums.  Other plums for the area include Santa Rosa and Allred.  My Warren pear tree had eight pears, but is still pretty much a baby.  Another pear for the area is the Orient. La Feliciana peach is a recommended peach.  Remember to keep up with your borer sprays because I lost a three year old peach tree last year. Recommended grapes are Champanel and Black Spanish. The two of us disagreed on blueberries.  He said that the ordinary gardener would not want to go the trouble of growing blueberries in our alkaline area.  I have grown blueberries in large pots of peat moss for five years and have a good crop of fruit every year.  Of course, they must be transplanted when they outgrow the pot.

Sept. 2010 Q & A:  How to Request a Garden Program; When to Plant Wildflowers, Spring-Blooming Bulbs, Trees; Much Ado About Okra

Q:  My organization wishes to have a speaker give a garden-related talk.  How do I get a Master Gardener to speak to my group? A: The Guadalupe County Master Gardeners have a Speakers’ Bureau.  You can just call the AgriLife extension office at 830-303-3889 and they will give you the name of the chairman who can then set up the talk. Q:  I really want wildflowers for this spring.  When can I plant them? A: Reading the USDA plant hardiness map is a bit confusing to me, but I think we are zone 8B.  This means that wildflower seeds can be planted from mid September to December.  We are lucky to have in Texas two wildflower seed sources: Wildseed Farms (up near Fredericksburg), Internet address wildseedfarms.com; and Native American Seed Co. (in Junction), Internet address seedsource.com.   Both companies have catalogs and I have used seeds from both.  By the way, once you plant bluebonnets or larkspur, you will have them ever after.  Mine reseed really well. Q:  Can I grow spring-flowering bulbs here? A: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, you can if you treat them as annuals and purchase them yearly.  Buy them as soon as they appear in the store, then put them all in the refrigerator whether they require chilling or not.  When the soil cools from November on, you can plant them.  I do have a few bulbs that come back year after year, although they don’t always bloom. Q:  I understand that fall is the best time to plant trees?  Does that mean all trees? A: Fall is when we plant container-grown trees and shrubs.  Container grown trees already have root systems but they need the time before spring to recover from transplanting and also get new roots.  Bare-root plants (roses, pecans, fruit trees, etc.) should be planted in the winter when they are dormant.  That way new growth will occur only in the roots (new leaf shoots would freeze).  Luckily our local nurseries usually bring out the bare-root plants at the correct time to plant.  Other reasons to plant container-grown plants in the fall are the cooler weather causing less plant stress and the availability of more rainfall. Q:  I grew the most wonderful okra this past growing season.  It was short, fat, fluted, tender and delicious.  I found the seed packet labeled German okra in a give-away basket (from the Master Gardeners).  What is it and how do I get more? A: It turns out that the okra originally came from Malcolm Beck who found it growing on his farm years ago.  It has been since sold as Beck’s Big Buck and one seed company adds “snapping okra,” because it snaps easily off the stem when it is ready to be picked.  I love this okra not only because of the taste, but also because of how pretty it is when sliced.  If you already have some growing, leave some pods on your plant for seed.  They can be harvested when completely dried.

August 2010 Q & A:  The Fall Garden

Q:  Is it time to work on my fall garden? A: Yes, you can be doing a lot of work on your garden right now, particularly with all the rain we’ve been having.  Most of my vegetables from the spring are still doing well.  I pulled up all of my tomato plants except for a nice looking Green Zebra and a Juliet.  I cut those back short to nice looking growth.  Both plants have new shoots and the Juliet is blooming but not setting.  My eggplant have started blooming and setting fruit again (Gretel and PingTung Long).  The German okra has never stopped blooming and setting fruit, and the yard long beans continue to fruit. I keep meaning to write about the two spinach substitutes that are doing well in my summer garden: melokhiya and Malabar spinach.  I don’t like the flavor of the first one although it is supposed to be healthy and nutritious (and grows wonderfully well).  We have been eating the Malabar spinach raw as a hot weather spinach substitute although my husband is not that fond of it.  It also grows well.  I think that I will try New Zealand spinach or strawberry spinach next year. For your fall garden, mulch your flower and shrub beds, and around your fruit trees.  I am widening the no-grow area around my fruit trees so that it is easier to mow.  If you have not put in drip irrigation systems in your beds and vegetable gardens, now is the time.  I have two beds finished and two to go.  I noticed that my soaker hose in one of my vegetable gardens is now a sprinkler hose, so instead of replacing it, I will go ahead and use drip irrigation. Doug Welsh in his Texas Garden Almanac says to prune your rose bushes this month by about 25 percent. Also, cut off the diseased or damaged leaves and stems, and apply nitrogen fertilizer (water in well). Q:  Can I plant my vegetable garden now? A: Welsh says to plant now.  Tomatoes take about 90 days to grow, set, and ripen fruit; that’s ninety days from August 1 to November 1.  Plant your pumpkins in early August if you want pumpkins by Halloween.  I am waiting for my pears to ripen (late August through September).  I’ve already lost one to a squirrel.  Don’t forget to make sure your fruit trees are getting enough water.  I put out five-gallon buckets around each tree when we don’t get enough rain.  Next year’s crop depends on the energy stored in this year’s leaves. Q:  My tomatoes are not setting fruit.  Why? A: Optimum growing conditions according to Aggie Horticulture is 80 to 85 degree days and 60 to 70 degree nights.  Maybe with our rain cooled weather, some will set.  A great website is http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/guides/carver_tomato.html

July 2010 Q & A:  All About Crape Myrtles

Q:  Why is my crape myrtle’s bark peeling?  It looks okay otherwise. A: Now that all of our crape myrtles are blooming, I’ve received a number of crape myrtle questions.  It is normal for the old bark to flake off the trunk.  In fact, to my mind, this is one of the special pluses about the plant.  I keep my trunk free of suckers and the pretty colors of the trunk are very showy. Q:  Why won’t my crape myrtle flower?  I water and fertilize the plant. A: Crape myrtles need more than six hours of direct sunlight each day.  All of my crape myrtles are in full bloom except for the one that only gets sun after about one in the afternoon.  It has a very few blooms on it, and tends to get the most powdery mildew.  Another reason for no blooms comes from Dr. Gary Knox, a Horticulture professor at the University of Florida.  He says that when a crape myrtle is planted too deep, the roots can’t get enough oxygen which stresses the plant and reduces growth and flowering.  He reminds us that the upper-most root should be even with ground level or an inch or two above. Q: I have white stuff on the leaves and buds of my crape myrtle.  What is it and what should I do? A: That is powdery mildew which occurs mostly on older varieties in shady humid locations when days are warm and nights are cool (according to Dr. Knox), although I’ve had it even when nights were not cool.  Ask before you buy a particular crape myrtle whether it is resistant to powdery mildew.  You can also prune the plant to allow better air movement.  Cornell University looks at using a spray of potassium bicarbonate and Organic Gardener says that baking soda works too.  I checked the side of one of my organic fungicide sprays and it also works on powdery mildew. Q: While you are on diseases, what else could occur? A: A blackish layer on leaves is sooty mold which indicates the presence of aphids.  Beneficial insects can control the aphids, as well as spraying with horticultural soap.  A fungus that attacks crape myrtles, Cercospora lythracearum, causes brown spots to appear on the leaves.  In warm wet weather the disease can spread and lead to premature leaf drop.  We have the warm weather, but usually not the wet.  There are varieties introduced by the U.S. National Arboretum that are reported to have some resistance: Apalachee, Caddo, Catawba, Sioux, Tonto, Tuscarora, Tuskegee, and Yuma. Q:  Everyone always says to know how tall a particular crape myrtle will grow so that you can plan for your site.  Where can I find a list? A: A really wonderful web site with photos and descriptions is on aggie horticulture.  http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/archives/parsons/trees/crapemyrtle/crape_myrtle_varieties.html.

June 2010 Q & A:  Zucchini and Squash Vine Borer

Q:  I planted zucchini this year because of all the comments about its productivity.  Out of nine plants, four succumbed to squash borer.  Help! A: I don’t know if I’m really the one to answer this.  I have a terrible time growing squash.  Basically the squash vine borer starts as a “clear wing” moth who lays eggs on the plant near the base.  After hatching from the eggs, the larvae penetrate the plant stem and burrow toward the base.  There they feed which destroys the inside of the stem and causes the plant to die.  I’ve always been told that you can cut open the stem, remove the larva, and pile soil up over the cut; however, by the time I find the problem, the plant is already wilted and gone. On the Internet, aggie-horticulture says that there is much variation in the susceptibility of squash and pumpkin varieties, and lists hubbard as being highly susceptible.  Another website, the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service (www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html), lists twelve squash with their degrees of resistance to squash vine borer attack. Butternut and green striped cushaw have the most resistance, then summer crookneck and Dickenson pumpkin, then acorn and white bush scallop, then zucchini, small sugar pumpkin, Connecticut field pumpkin, golden delicious (hubbard type), Boston marrow (hubbard type), and finally, with the least resistance, blue hubbard.  So, this means that you can actually try to be more selective in the type of squash you plant. Next, keep the ground under the squash plant free from mulch so that bugs won’t live there or overwinter. Several biological methods to cut down on borers are suggested.  The first is to keep the eggs off of your plants.  (Squash vine borer eggs are disk-shaped and dark-reddish-brown; they are laid singly on the plant near the base.)  There is a suggestion in some of the literature that planting later in the season also helps with a borer infestation.  Another suggestion that really works for pest management is to use row covers over your baby plants.  Of course, the cover would need to come off for pollination.  Diatomaceous earth dusted on the stems is the next level of protection; the use of neem oil could be the next step. Aggie-Horticulture lists the use of pyrethrins as a spray.  Remember to read, understand and follow the label; read the precautions.  Although pyrethrins come from the chrysanthemum, the spray is toxic to bees.  Be very careful; if you or your pets get sprayed, it is still a poison and can result in a variety of symptoms.  What it does to the insect is to inhibit cellular respiration primarily in nerve and muscle cells causing death.  This is why I usually do not put poisons on my plants, or if I do, I use the least lethal, wear gloves, don’t breathe in, and, of course, read the label and use the proper precautions.

April 2010 Q & A: Jerusalem sage, Leaf cutter ants

Q: I was enjoying the wildflowers at the AgriLife Extension building when I noticed an interesting plant in bloom. Tell me about the Jerusalem sage. How hard is it to grow? A: Jerusalem sage or Phlomis fruticosa is a hardy perennial that came from the Mediterranean area. It has whorls of yellow tubular flowers appearing on stems rising three feet above the woolly gray-green leaves. “Plants for Dry Climates” says to plant in sun to light shade, and that it is best with protection from the afternoon sun. It is not picky about the soil and uses moderate to low water. The plant has a number of things going for it. Aggie Horticulture’s PLANTanswers says that it is deer resistant. The Santa Clara County Master Gardeners agree. (Of course we know that resistance depends on your particular deer and how hungry he is.) The plant is also attractive to bees, butterflies and birds. Propagation methods include dividing the root-ball, taking softwood cuttings and growing from seed. Since Phlomis fruticosa grows to four feet high and four feet wide, you need to cut it back lightly after each flowering. Also, cut the plants back by half in the fall to keep them compact. The plant is listed on the Aggie-Horticulture website as “a plant for the dry years.” This alone makes it a plant you may want to try in your own garden. Ours at the Extension building did not freeze this winter. Q: I have leaf cutter ants. What in the world can I do? A: Sadly enough, Aggie-Horticulture says that they are really hard to eradicate. The story is going around that club soda poured in the mound will kill both fire ants and leaf cutter ants. According to Elizabeth Brown, a Texas AgriLife Extension entomologist in Austin who’s been running field tests, the treatment is ineffective, “unless you happen to drown a few fire ants in the process.” Another article by Drees and Merchant, entomologists with A&M, reminds us that because leaf cutter ants only eat the fungus they cultivate on all those cut leaves, they do not respond well to most ant baits. Plants can be protected temporarily by applying contact insecticides like acephate (Orthene) or carbarl (Sevin) or permethrin, but these do not eliminate underground colonies. The main formulation for control, hydramethylnon (Amdro Ant Block), is still only 30% effective with a single application. Remember to read the label on the bottle, follow directions exactly, and AVOID chemical contact with skin. Obviously, as an organic gardener, I hesitate to use these chemicals (and there is a possibility of contaminating accessible water). Howard Garrett and Malcolm Beck, in the Texas Bug Book, say to treat the mounds with plant oil products such as EcoEXEMPT. Another Master Gardener wonders if diatomaceous earth around the mound might give the ants some grief (it’s worth trying, anyway).

March 2010 Q & A: VFN Tomato Plants, Chinese Fringe Flower locations

Q: When I was listening to the Master Gardeners radio show, I heard you mention what the letters VFN on a Better Boy tomato label stood for. I didn’t quite catch what you said and would like for it to be repeated. A: It is probably a good thing you misunderstood because I gave the wrong diseases. Actually, VFN means that the plant is resistant to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt, and Nematodes. There are many other disease resistance codes. A, for instance, is for anthracnose, or according to another source, for Alternaria alternate fungus, TMV or T is for tobacco mosaic virus, and FF is for another type of fusarium wilt that has become more resistant. Usually seed catalogs will have a chart with the meaning of each letter. Remember that just because the plant is resistant to a disease, it is not immune. One of the reasons that I am so fond of my Celebrity tomato plants is because they are resistant to so many problems: VFFNTA (verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, nematodes, tobacco mosaic virus, and alternaria). If you use good gardening practices, such as keeping diseased plants thrown away (do not put into compost), watering evenly (not too much, not too little), having good drainage, mulching, and keeping your vegetable families rotated, you have a much better chance of a successful harvest. There is a really good A&M website called “Tomato Problem Solver: A Guide to the Identification of Common Problems” with nice photos of both diseased fruit and pests: aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/publications/tomatoproblemsolver/ Q: What is the plant in bloom in front of the Guadalupe Regional Wellness Center? A: The Loropetalum chineso, also called Chinese Fringe Flower and Chinese Witch Hazel, is blooming now. This shrub is evergreen here (at least the ones in front of the Wellness Center and the one by the Extension office kept their leaves) and has sort of bronze green foliage. The blooms are hot pink and are on the shrubs now. The shrub grows four to six feet high and spreads four to five feet wide. Make sure if you plant several to put them at least three feet apart in well drained soil. The interesting thing that I found out on the Dirt Doctor web site is that the shrub likes compost, organic fertilizers and a total organic program. If chemical fertilizers are used, the shrub gets chlorotic. This chlorosis can be seen on the shrubs at the Wellness Center and to a smaller extent on the one at the Extension building. Loropetalum can be grown in both sun and part shade. The shrub at the Extension building is next to the building and near a red oak tree. The ones at the Wellness Center are in full sun.

Feb. 2010 Q & A: Pruning Roses, Earth-Kind Roses, Dwarf Fruit Trees

Q: Do I have to prune my roses? They look pretty good to me. A: Yes, you probably should. According to our latest Master Gardener Handbook (2009), all roses need some type of pruning to prevent the production of smaller flowers, deterioration in appearance, and the occurrence of disease and insect problems. If nothing else, you should remove all dead and diseased wood at least one inch below the damaged area, as well as all weak shoots. If you have two branches that are rubbing on each other, remove one of them. If your rose bush is old and heavy, cut out one or two of the oldest canes each year. A website on rose pruning written by Dr. Doug Welsh is aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/newsletters/hortupdate/jan09/RosePrune.html. I might give my opinion here on when to prune. I usually start pruning around Valentine’s Day, but it takes me so long, that it is into March before I finish. Q: You’ve mentioned Earth-Kind roses before. I understand that they grow in most every Texas soil type and are really tolerant to pests. Would you give the Earth-Kind list again? A: I will give the list and also tell you to go by the Guadalupe County AgriLife Extension Building and look at the Master Gardener’s Earth Kind Rose Garden. A number of the roses are growing there for you to look at, and all of them came through the bad freeze quite well. The Earth Kind Rose List includes Belinda’s Dream, Caldwell Pink, Climbing Pinkie, Ducher, Duchesse De Brabant, Else Poulsen, Georgetown Tea, Katy Road Pink (also called Carefree Beauty), Knock Out, Marie Daly, Mutabilis, Perle d’Or, Sea Foam, Spice, and The Fairy. All sizes are included here, from dwarf to climbers. Q: I would like to buy a dwarf fruit tree. How do I know what to buy? A: This turned out to be a hard question to answer. One of the nurseries told me to buy a standard variety and keep it pruned with lower branches and an open center instead of having that long trunk that we usually keep so we can mow under it. Another resource said to go with semi dwarf plants and not dwarfs because they will have more fruit. For your own research, go to http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/general-pruning.html. Then look at Central Leader pruning and Y System pruning, both making smaller trees. For lovely photos, go to lecooke.com and look at the pruning on their EZ Pick fruit trees. A suggested variety list from Bexar County includes apples: Anna, Dorsett Golden, Ein Shemer, Gala, and Mollie’s Delicious; apricots: Blenheim, and Royal; pears: Kieffer, Orient, Warren, Fan-stil, Le Conte, and Monterrey; peaches: La Feliciana, John Fanick, TexStar, Harvester, TexRoyal, and June Gold; and plums: Methley, Allred, Bruce, Santa Rosa. Ask your nursery person if the rootstock is recommended for your area

Jan. 2010 Q & A: All About Fruit Trees!

Q: I am getting ready to buy fruit trees as soon as they appear in my local nursery. What does winter chilling requirements mean when you are talking about plants and why do I care? A: According to Texas A&M extension horticulturist Doug Welsh, some fruit crops require a certain amount of cold weather to end their dormancy and help with proper blooming and spring growth. These chilling hours are the number of hours during which temperatures are below 45 degrees F. and above 32 degrees F. Therefore, if the fruit tree you want requires more chilling than you receive in your area, it will not bloom fully or at all. In Welsh’s book Texas Garden Almanac, he prints a map showing the different chilling zones in Texas. Both Guadalupe and Bexar County are split by a zone line, so, depending where you are in the county, plants require either 600 or 700 hours of chilling. (For practicality, just say around 650). This number gives you quite a lot of different varieties that can be grown here. One of my favorite peaches, La Feliciana, requires 550 chilling hours so would be good for here. Q: Apples are grown around Fort Davis in Texas. Can they be grown here? A: Our new Texas Master Gardener handbook lists the apple variety regions for Texas along with the varieties that can be grown in each region. One of the main things to remember when planting apples is that they require pollen from another variety to set fruit. So you have to plant two or more varieties with overlapping bloom periods. Guadalupe, Bexar, Wilson and Gonzales County are in apple planting region 2. You could plant Gala, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Jersey Mac, Mollies Delicious, and Red Delicious. Golden Delicious russets badly. I have not grown apples here but some of our Master Gardeners have. Q: Are some fruits easier to grow than others? A: Welsh gives a list that shows crops from the least to the most difficult. He starts with blackberries, than blueberries (in pots here), figs, citrus, pears, pecans, grapes, persimmons, apples, plums, than finally peaches. I personally seem to have lots of trouble growing peaches. My last tree lasted three years than died riddled with borers. I guess I need plants that grow in spite of me. Actually, my Celeste sugar fig meets this requirement. The only thing that bothered it this past year was the drought. Figs need more water than I was giving it. When you are choosing the type of fruit to plant, ask your nurseryman questions: will it grow in your particular soil, what are its winter chilling requirements, is this variety adapted to our climate, how susceptible is it to insects and diseases, can I keep pests off of it easily, and do I need to train and prune this plant in a special way? With all this in mind, start small. And remember that you need patience. It takes anywhere from one to six years depending on the fruit type for it to bear.

Dec. 2009 Q&A: AgriLife Bldg Native Plant with Yellow Flower Sprays; Deer Resistant Plantings

Q: What is the striking plant in the extension building native plant garden that is covered with sprays

of yellow flowers?A: That plant is the forsythia sage or salvia madrensis. It is one of our fall and early winter bloomers and is indeed beautiful this time of year. This perennial likes an area with sun to partial shade and is attractive to bees, butterflies and birds. The main problem with this lovely plant is that it grows very well in our area. It can get from six to eight feet tall and sprawls at least three to four feet wide. It is extremely easy to propagate from stem cuttings. A suggestion from a grower is to cut it back in early summer to keep it from getting too big. And it will get big, so be careful where you plant it.Q: I live outside the city limits and am having trouble with deer. Please list some plants that will give me a fighting chance to keep my landscape.A: I’ve found several lists and all of them have the disclaimer that if a deer is hungry, he’ll eat the deer resistant plant. So here are plants that are pretty good. Remember, there are also deterrents that work (such as a motion sensor attached to a sprinkler). Deer like young trees, so keep the trees within fencing until their leaves are higher than a deer’s reach. Small trees and shrub types include desert willow, Eastern red cedar, flameleaf and evergreen sumac, roughleaf dogwood, Texas buckeye, Texas mountain laurel, Texas persimmon, agarita, ceniza or Texas sage, esperanza, nandina, oleander, pineapple guava, pomegranate, soft leaf yucca as well as yucca with stiff points, sotol, rosemary, yaupon holly and vitex. Among perennials, flowers and herbs are listed many types of salvia, pigeonberry, American beautyberry, Turk’s cap, amaryllis, artemisia, plumbago, Texas betony, wedelia, periwinkles, zinnias, purple coneflower, rock rose, skullcap, verbena, lantana (the old fashioned orange type), and bluebonnets. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says that most herbs are deer resistant and you should try them all. For more information go to the aggie horticulture web site:http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/deerbest.html.

Nov. 2009 Q&A: Nov. Garden Tasks, Save Your Basil, Rooting Woody Stemmed Plants, Trees, Shrubs

Q: What should I be doing in my yard and garden in November? A: You need to start looking around for people raking their lawns and bagging leaves so that you can grab those bags for your compost. I have a friend who cruises her neighborhood this time of year several times a week for leaves. She always has beautiful compost. Personally, I do not have many trees that drop leaves, so I can just leave my leaves on the lawn and my husband mows over them with our mulching mower. Now is a good time to send a sample of your soil in for testing. If you go in to your county extension agent (or our Master Gardener office), you can pick up a form with instructions and the address of the soil-testing lab. Also, before the first freeze of the season, be sure to cut a stem of basil, place it in a vase of water, and put it on your kitchen windowsill. Since it will root easily, you can have fresh basil all winter (long after the basil in your garden has frozen). Remember to cover your tomatoes and other freeze-sensitive plants with cardboard boxes, blankets, or row cover to keep them just a little longer. Please remember that freeze damaged plant material is best pruned in February or March. Winter vegetable crops benefit from a nitrogen fertilizer. If we have a dry spell, don’t forget to water your winter garden. Q: I’ve really been enjoying the hard sand pears that have just ripened on area trees. Is it possible to root one? A: I hope so, because I also enjoy them. According to Doug Welsh’s “Texas Garden Almanac” dormant, woody stems from shrubs and trees, and woody stems of perennials are best rooted during the fall and winter. (He also says that bald cypress, cedar elm, oak and pecan are virtually impossible to root.) Have ready a pot of good potting soil with good drainage. Moisten. Take tip cuttings the length and diameter of a pencil. The end of the cutting to be put in the soil should be at a 45-degree angle. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Dip the angled end into rooting hormone. Tap off excess. Make a hole in the soil with your finger and slip in the cutting, than firm the soil around the cutting. Water. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. Welsh suggests using a two liter soda bottle cut in half as a greenhouse. Place in bright light. A helpful hint is to take more cuttings than needed as some always die. If they all root, however, then you have plants to share.

Oct. 2009 Q & A: Plant Fall Color, Use Those Leaves

Q: After our long hot and dry summer, I want some fall color. What can I plant?

A: One of my favorite fall and winter color plants is flowering kale. They are show- stoppers when they reach cabbage size. Snapdragons also do exceptionally well here. In fact, mine reseed every year. Doug Welsh, in his Texas Garden Almanac, says that the best petunia beds in the spring are the ones planted in the fall. I have a petunia planted last fall that made it through the summer and is completely rejuvenated after our recent rain. Other annuals that Welsh lists are alyssum, calendula, dianthus, Johnny-jump-up, pansy, stock, sweet pea and viola.Some plants that give fall and winter color are the agarita (if any berries are left after the hungry birds get to them), American and Buford holly, dogwood, Mexican plum, pomegranate, possumhaw holly, Nellie Stevens holly, and yaupon holly. American beautyberry is one of my favorite color plants. The variety with the white berries is pretty, but the one with the purple berries is outstanding. I have babied mine all summer by keeping it watered and fairly happy. It is really pretty right now, as the photo attests.You might want to consider ornamental grasses for your Texas landscape. One of the prettiest fall bloomers is Gulf or coastal muhly. It flowers in the fall with sort of pinkish seed heads. When the sun shines though it, it is simply beautiful. I lost mine by letting Bermuda grass get into the bed. If I plant again, it will be in pots as it only gets one and a half to two feet tall. Other fall bloomers are big bluestem (4 to 6 feet tall), bushy bluestem (2 to 4 feet), Indian grass (3 to 6 feet), little bluestem (2 to 4 feet), maiden grass (6 to 8 feet), switchgrass (3 to 8 feet), and zebra grass (5 to 7 feet). I did not list pampas grass because it is so huge. I also had a hard time trying to get rid of mine after it outgrew its space.Q: What can I do with the leaves that fall off my trees? I know that I should not be putting them in the landfill.A: If you have a mulching mower, some of them can be just left on your lawn as mulch. Another possibility is to put them in a pile, mow over them, then place them in your compost pile. When they compost along with your vegetable trimmings, eggshells, and banana peels, you will have a lovely additive to put on your plants. Another possibility is to use the leaves in the furrows between the rows in your vegetable garden. As you walk on the leaves, they will break down and can be used next year as compost. According to Welsh, you can also collect leaves and till them directly into the soil in the fall. Add a small amount of nitrogen or manure to speed up their decomposition.

Sept. 2009 Q & A: Fall Vegetable Garden, Spider Mites

Q: I would like to plant my fall vegetable garden. When do I plant seeds?

A: In the San Antonio area, according to Dr. Jerry Parsons and David Rodriguez, many seeds can be planted this month. From now till about the middle or end of September, you can plant beans, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard, collards, garlic (cloves), kohlrabi, peas, potatoes, and summer squash. Of course, if you buy transplants, you can plant later. The seed of beets, carrots, lettuce, mustard, onion, parsley, radish, spinach, and turnip can be planted into October, with turnips and radishes planted into November. If you would like a list of recommended vegetable varieties and planting dates for both spring and fall, leave your email address at the extension office and I will email it to you (or come in and I will leave some handouts at the main desk). Remember, when choosing vegetable varieties, choose ones that are resistant to pests and disease. (Tomatoes, for example, may have VFN or other letters showing resistance). Talk to your nurseryman.

Q: I really would like a big vegetable garden, but do not have the time or energy to keep up with one. What can I do?

A: Aside from adding a few containers on your patio for smaller vegetables, why don’t you put some of your cool-season vegetables in your flowerbed as ornamentals? Cabbage, kale, leaf lettuce, spinach, cilantro and other herbs look very attractive in the landscape and, of course, can be eaten.

Q: I have spider mites on a bush near my vegetable garden. What can I do to keep them from getting on my newly planted tomatoes?

A: Spider mites are bad this year because of our hot dry weather. If it were not so hot, I would first spray the spider mite infested bush with insecticidal soap. However, remember that insecticidal soap can burn or stress plants if used in full sun or when the temperature is high. A better thing to try in this heat is to spray with a high-pressure water spray. Also spray your tomatoes with a high-pressure water spray (not so high that you tear the tomato to shreds). This will also keep the dust off your plants. As always, cleanliness is important. Make sure there are no weeds or old vegetation from the spring still left in your fall garden. This is important since spider adults over winter in vegetation. If you can, maintain adequate soil moisture.

August 2009 Q & A: Finding Space for Growing Tomatoes

Q: I really don’t have a space to plant a vegetable garden but I sure like the flavor of homegrown tomatoes. What can I do? A: Almost anywhere—a patio, a balcony, a doorstep, a windowsill, near the pool or the hot tub—is a good spot for vegetables grown in a container. There are many advantages to growing in a container. One is mobility. The container can be moved to follow the sun. It can also be moved inside in case of a freeze or can be more easily covered. Another advantage is the height of the container. The other evening I took photos of a house surrounded by vegetables in containers. The gardener told me that he could be watering one pot while weeding another. If you have children, each child could be responsible for taking care of his or her own “vegetable garden.” Another advantage is that it is easier to find pests and eliminate them with a container that can be seen from all sides. Soil borne diseases and poor soil conditions are not as prevalent since you should fill your container with a growing medium that is free of plant disease organisms and weed seeds. A nice soil mixture (suggested by Dr. Masabni of Texas A&M) can be made up of equal parts of peat moss or compost, pasteurized soil, and vermiculite or perlite. Then add composted cow manure as a nutrient source. Almost anything can be used as a container: clay or plastic pots, wash tubs, wooden planters, hanging baskets, old half barrels, bushel baskets, even old stock tanks. Be sure there are drainage holes in the container and place one-inch coarse gravel or broken clay pot pieces in the bottom for better drainage. Many types of crops are suitable for containers: beans, beets, carrots, cucumbers, eggplant, lettuce, onions, parsley, peppers, radishes, spinach, summer squash, Swiss chard, and tomatoes. Proper watering is essential when you have a container garden, but proper drainage is also essential. If the soil becomes soggy, plants will die from lack of oxygen. There are several hints that tell you there is poor drainage and excessive water: the plants yellow from the bottom and they wilt although it may seem like sufficient water is present. After your seeds germinate and the plants emerge, you can use either time-release or water-soluble fertilizer following the application directions on the label. Enjoy eating your homegrown vegetables. For more information go to aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu on the Internet.

July 2009 Q & A: Chiggers! Gardening through the Golden Years

Q: My back yard is full of chiggers and I am getting bitten when I go out to garden. What can I do? A: On the Texas A& M web site under “chiggers,” I found a number of articles. One article said that chigger infestations are less common in maintained turf grass and landscape environments. The article went on to say that keeping grass cut short and vegetation well trimmed can raise soil temperatures and lower humidity enough to make lawns less hospitable to chiggers. Also, wild animals can help sustain chiggers in your backyard. Remember that fireants eat ticks and chiggers. I suppose this means that we should not eradicate our fireants around the house completely. Lawns can be covered in dusting sulfur although one person has told me that this did not help. To keep chiggers off of you, spray with a repellant (read the label of your mosquito repellent and see if it will also keep chiggers off) and wear loose clothing. Tuck your long pants into your boots. Do not lie down or sit on the ground. Immediately after exposure to chiggers, make sure you take a hot soapy bath to kill and remove the larvae. Your clothes should also be washed. An antiseptic can be put on the welts. Try as hard as you can to keep from scratching. Q: I’m getting older and less able to handle a large garden. Do you have suggestions for the older gardener? A: Actually, there is a book out called “Gardening through your Golden Years” by Jim Wilson in which he interviews older gardeners to get their views. One person says he uses long handled tools. Another gardens in raised beds. Another gardener worried about getting injured so got rid of all his power tools – the chain saw, the lawn tractor, the edger, and the lawn mower – and just hires someone to do the heavy work. And then there is the opposite: the man who used getting older as an excuse to buy fancy power equipment to make his life easier – a garden tractor, a better wheelbarrow, a front end loader. I can tell you what I’ve done. I’ve bought garden tools with easy to grip handles and cutters that spring open by themselves after each cut. My lopper has compound levers to multiply the force. I also use kneepads when working on a bed. A friend of mine bought one of those wheeled garden seats. I work in the morning or early evening and try to stay in the shade. I wear my hat, sunscreen, drink plenty of water, and know my limitations. At the first comment from my back or my wrists, I stop and do something else. I’ve already discovered that my arthritis does not like the vibration of the weed eater. Listen to your body and you will be gardening for years to come.

June 2009 Q & A: Plum Problem and All About the Lavender Tree

Q: All the small plums fell off my tree this year before they ripened. There was no sign of insect infestation. What am I doing wrong? A: After searching the Internet and AggieHorticulture, I found that if it is not insects, or normal early fruit drop when the tree sets too many fruit, then it is probably some type of stress. In our case, lack of enough water could be the culprit. Water is essential for large fruit and healthy trees according to the Master Gardener manual. Fruit trees need water at least every 3 weeks and in summer they need a deep soaking irrigation at least once a week. Another possibility is to keep weeds away from your tree. Clear the ground around the plum tree out as far as the limb spread or about twenty feet. Mulch the ground remembering to keep the mulch out from the trunk about three inches. If you have a bearing tree, then you should be on a fertilizing schedule: February—two cups of balanced fertilizer per inch of trunk diameter; May—two to six cups of high nitrogen per tree; and August—no fertilizer if trees are growing vigorously, or 1 ½ cups if there is no new growth but tree is healthy, or three cups if there is no new growth and the leaves are yellow. Q: I have a lavender tree. Can I trim it this time of year? Also, what is its real name? A: You have a Vitex agnus-castus, also called a chaste tree. In spite of the fact that the tree is not native to North America, I am very fond of it in the landscape. The lavender blooms are quite attractive to butterflies and bees. A Forest Service fact sheet says that the tree is often planted where honey is marketed to promote excellent honey production. To finally answer your question about pruning, not only can you prune it, you should be pruning the tree to enable clearance beneath the canopy or to develop a strong structure. The tree likes to grow with several trunks, but you can prune it to grow with a single trunk or multiple showy trunks. After the tree blooms, small black fruit or berries form. When I was a child growing up in Florida, we gathered the fragrant dried berries and placed them in little hand made sachet bags to place in our dresser drawers. The Vitex has basically no pests, it likes almost any soil as long as it is well drained, and it likes heat. The tree does get leaf spot (although I’ve never seen it). The Invaders of Texas program out of the Ladybird Wildflower Center does list Vitex as an invasive species in Central Texas.

May 2009 Q & A: How Do I Start a Compost Pile?

Q: At Earth Day in downtown Seguin, the Master Gardeners had a display with compost in various degrees of decomposition. I would love to start a compost pile but am afraid that I would do it all wrong. Help! A: Let’s look at what compost really is. Compost is a dark, crumbly and earthy-smelling form of organic matter that has been through a decomposition process. It can be used to enrich and loosen the soil. Also, if you have sandy soils, compost can help retain moisture and nutrients. Aggie-horticulture says that the word “compost” comes from the Latin verb meaning to put together. So composting involves putting together a mixture of different organic materials to form humus. First, you should find a spot in your yard where a compost pile will be out of the way. (My husband prefers that our pile also be out of sight.) If the pile is in the sun, it will decompose faster. If it is in the shade, it will remain moist longer. You do not have to have a structure. The decomposing material can just be placed in a pile on the ground. Or, you could build a wire cage, a wooden box, a turning barrel, four wooden palettes on edge, or any structure that is well ventilated for good air circulation. One of our Master Gardeners uses the inner drum of an old dryer. Start your pile with a six-inch layer of brush trimmings or wood chips. Next add a six-inch layer of leaves, straw, hay or a mixture. Water the pile. Add a nitrogen source such as an 8-8-8 or a 10-10-10 fertilizer. Then put about a fourth inch of soil over the nitrogen. Water. Then add a two to three inch layer of high nitrogen material such as vegetative kitchen scraps, grass clippings, etc. Then add another thin layer of soil. Keep adding layers and remember to water. Do not add animal products or milk products (such as butter, bones, cheese, chicken, fish scraps, lard, mayonnaise, meat scraps, peanut butter, salad dressing). Also, do not add animal manures or feces (except for herbivores like cow or horse manure). Loosen the pile with a pitch fork now and then. Now, all these good instructions aside, I put grass clippings, leaves, and vegetable scraps in my pile and water it. I very rarely turn it, and yet, it turns into compost in spite of me. Aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/compost/compost.html has a number of chapters on compost, including one on building your own container.

April 2009 Q & A: Earth Kind Rose Garden

Q: I noticed that around the side of the Guadalupe County AgriLife building is a new garden that is not made up of native plants like the other gardens. Exactly what is an Earth Kind Rose Garden? A: First of all, the phrase Earth Kind, as used by Texas A&M Department of Horticultural Sciences, “uses research-proven techniques to provide maximum gardening and landscape enjoyment while preserving and protecting our environment.” Their literature (EarthKind.tamu.edu) goes on to say that Earth Kind roses are tested and do very well in almost any Texas soil type. Environmental responsibility is a big issue in Texas right now (as it is throughout the United States) and Earth Kind roses fit right in with many of the concepts. These roses, while not immune to pests, do have a larger pest tolerance. In fact, A&M says that the roses rarely require the use of chemical pesticides. The planting bed at the Extension building followed the growing tips listed on the Earth Kind site. The bed receives direct sunlight for eight hours or more. There is good air movement in this location (in other words, not an enclosed location). The bed is well drained. When you visit the garden, notice that landscape timbers have been used to create a semi raised bed effect. The compacted soil was removed and mixed with compost, then returned to the bed. After the roses were planted, a three to four inch layer of organic mulch was placed over the bed. Our organic mulch was something that just says “Seguin”—pecan shells. The Master Gardeners planted five of the current list of Earth Kind rose: Caldwell Pink, Knock Out, Perle d’Or, Belinda’s Dream and Climbing Pinkie. The other roses on the Earth Kind list are Marie Daly, The Fairy, Else Poulsen, Katy Road Pink, Duchesse de Brabant, Spice, Mutabilis, and Sea Foam. Two more have been added to the list: Ducher and Georgetown Tea. An interesting part of the A&M Earth Kind site is the information about the EK Rose Brigade: amateur members who conduct field testing of rose selections. These members grow the roses for one to four years and following the EK planting tips. The members agree to use no commercial synthetic or organic fertilizer, no fungicides, pesticides, miticides, and no neem oil. In other words, Never Apply Commercial Fertilizer and Never Apply Pesticides. Remember, the main goals of EK are to conserve water, safely use and handle fertilizers and pesticides, and reduce yard wastes entering landfills.

March 2009 Q & A: Wildflowers and timely lawn and garden tasks!

Q: Are we going to have any wildflowers blooming this spring? A: We already have some plants in bloom. The mountain laurels are beautiful and are covered in blooms. The redbud trees are lovely as are the huisache. Smaller blooming plants in my yard are bluebonnets and agarita. Buttercup plants are preparing to send up blooms, larkspur are sending up spikes, and the blue-eyed grass in my neighbor’s yard is starting to bloom. If you go by the AgriLife extension building, the native plant garden surrounding the building has many salvia in bloom as well as other plants coming along. Q: What are some wildflower sites that we can access? A: One of my favorite sites is that of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. It is www.wildflower.org. Another is from A&M: aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wildseed/. Q: Can I still plant wildflowers? A: Seeds should have been planted in the fall. However, at least one of our local nurseries has bluebonnet plants by the six-pack. Another wildflower available is the columbine. And, if you want to plant trees, blooming redbuds are available also. Q: Is it time to fertilize my lawn? A: The rule of thumb is to apply lawn fertilizer after you have mowed the lawn grass at least twice. This way you know that the lawn is actively growing. Q: What should we be doing in our yards in March? A: According to Doug Welsh’s Texas Garden Almanac, we can cut back dead foliage of our ornamental grasses when we see new growth coming from the base. You can plant spring annuals. My tomatoes are in one-gallon pots ready to be transplanted to the garden. Finish your pruning. I still have two rose bushes left to prune. Keep your garden weed free. Every hackberry in the world seems to be sprouting in my columbine garden. At this stage they are easy to pull out. It is probably time to move your garaged plants out to the porch. I need to repot a few of mine such as the plumaria and the ficus. Welsh suggests that you monitor your fruit and nut crops. For me, this means that I make sure they are getting enough water. For an easy way to water, punch an eighth-inch hole at the bottom of the side of a five-gallon bucket. Place several buckets filled with water around your fruit tree. The water will slowly come out the small hole and no water will be wasted.

February 2009 Q & A: Companion plantings, more on Roses, February garden tasks

Q: Liz Palfini, Texas Parks and Wildlife Park Ranger, spoke at the Master Gardener meeting the other night on Companion Planting. Time ran out before she could list all the plants that should not be planted next to each other. What are some more examples? A: Liz said that beans do not like onions, and corn and tomatoes should not be planted together. Potatoes should not be planted with tomatoes, cucumbers and sunflowers. Other negative plantings can be found in “Carrots Love Tomatoes and Roses Love Garlic” by Louise Riotte written in 1975. Roses, as the title suggests, like garlic and onions but do not like boxwood. Sunflowers should not be planted with pole beans. It was interesting to note that tomatoes should not be planted near young apricot trees because of excretions from the tomato roots, but could be planted near roses. One of my prettiest tomato plants was the one I planted next to a rose bush. Another source that gives a list of plants that grow well together as well as those that are incompatible is: www.companionplanting.net Q: Is it all right to trim my rose bushes now? A: The rule of thumb that I’ve always heard is to prune your roses on Valentine’s Day. Doug Welsh’s “Texas Garden Almanac” for February says that when a flowering shrub blooms is the determining factor for when to prune. Spring-bloomers should be pruned soon after they bloom. These include honeysuckle, Indian hawthorn, redbud, spring-blooming climbing roses, Texas mountain laurel, viburnum and wisteria. Summer-blooming shrubs should be pruned in late winter in order to get vigorous spring growth. These include althea, butterfly bush, crape myrtle, most roses, and vitex. Q: What else can I do in my yard in February? A: Don’t forget that bare-root fruit and nut trees are in the nurseries now. Pull out weeds so that you won’t have so much to do in the spring. Do not fertilize your lawn yet unless you have mowed your lawn twice already (which will probably be March unless the lawn dies completely from no rain). Start your spring vegetables, and if you have transplants, place them in one gallon pots. Our last spring freeze is around March 6 or 7 (as an average—so that means we can still get one later). Keeping your vegetables in pots for a while is safer than putting them in the garden and worrying.

January 2009 Q & A: Roses, Pruning, Spring Garden Plan

By Clara Mae Marcotte, Texas Master Gardener with the Texas AgriLife Extension Q: As I look ahead to my spring garden, all I can think of are rosebushes. What roses have you had experience growing? A: I like old-fashioned roses because they practically take care of themselves. My very favorite rose is Carefree Beauty (which I first bought when it was known as Katy Road Pink). Introduced in 1977, it has deep pink blooms. A plus to me are the extremely large rose hips. Also, it roots from cuttings very easily. Another favorite is Cecile Brunner (a sweetheart rose). This pink rose has been around since 1881. Doug Welsh lists both roses in his “Texas Garden Almanac” as some of his favorite old-fashioned roses. He describes Cecile Brunner as an everblooming compact shrub. Mine comes to my chin and stays fairly compact. Carefree Beauty sprawls over about a ten-foot area so make sure you plant it out from the house (I didn’t). Another rose listed by Welsh is Mutabilis or Butterfly Rose. This was introduced in 1894 and has blooms that turn colors as they age—yellow, orange, pink, and crimson. I don’t have this plant but plan to rectify that this spring. If you would like to check out what Mutabilis looks like, there is one growing at the AgriLife Extension building, and one growing on the west side of the Big Red Barn (Texas Agricultural Education and Heritage Center). Q: In December 27’s newspaper, Calvin Finch wrote that we shouldn’t cut our frozen dead wood yet. Do you agree with this? It looks so messy. A: I certainly do agree with Calvin Finch. For one thing, I’m basically lazy and pruning before the last freeze means that I would have to prune again. Also, I’m into birds and wildlife. All that dead wood and leaves not only protects the live wood on the plants, it also gives birds and critters places to go, both to hide and to search for seeds, berries, and insects. Q: So if I can’t prune, what can I do in January? A: You should be planning your spring garden. My tomato catalog came in the week before Christmas and I’ve been perusing all the new varieties, as well as some of the heritage varieties that I haven’t grown yet. Welsh’s “Garden Almanac” suggests that you add organic matter to your spring garden. Use this time to renew the mulch on your established beds. Go ahead and pull weeds as they sprout. If you need to transplant, now is a good time. Buy bare root fruit and nut trees at local nurseries and plant them now.

December 2008 Q & A: Trees with Fall Color

By Clara Mae Marcotte, Texas Master Gardener with the Texas AgriLife Extension Q: We just returned from looking at fall color in Bandera and Lost Maples State Park. What can we plant in our area that will give us the feel of fall next year? A: There are three trees on the Texas Superstar list put out by the Texas Department of Agriculture. One that I’ve had experience with is the Chinese Pistache or Pistacia chinensis. Mine, as I write this in late November, is absolutely beautiful with red, red-orange foliage. The tree grows from 40 to 50 feet, is deciduous, and grows in any type of soil. It is drought, heat, and wind tolerant. My tree is male and has no berries. A negative point to planting the tree is that the Lady Bird Johnson Center has it on the List of Invasive Plants—those non-native species that are known to escape cultivation. I imagine that you can get around this by sticking to a male tree, or by keeping the berries clipped off of a female tree. Two more trees on the Superstar list are the Shantung Maple (Acer truncatum) and the Chinkapin Oak (Quercus muehlenbergii). The oak grows to 90 feet tall and 40 feet wide and the leaves turn yellow to bronze in the fall. The shantung maple is another tree with foliage that turns red, red-orange. This is a small tree, growing to 25 feet tall, and 20 feet wide. It is suggested to wrap the trunk the first three years to prevent sunscald. Another list that you might be interested in is “Trees Recommended for Texas” by Dr. William C. Welch at aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/southerngarden/treelist.html. It has a column of outstanding characteristics for each tree that includes fall color. As I look around my area, I see a number of cedar elm (Ulmus crassifolia) with yellow, yellow-orange foliage. This is a very dependable tree and grows well Welch mentions also the Ginkgo and the Sweetgum as having fall color. Another tree on the list is the Bradford Pear (Pyrus calleryana bradfordii). I have one of these medium-sized trees in my backyard. This is the first time that I’ve been happy with it as the leaves finally turned red this year. Supposedly it also has flowers in the spring (my neighbor’s tree does) but mine has not bloomed yet. If you are looking for a smaller spot of color (shrub size or small tree), plant a flame-leaf sumac (Rhus lanceolata). It has orange/red fall color and is the red plant that you see along the roadsides right now. There is small patch of flame sumac on the southwest corner of the Wal Mart complex in Seguin out by King Street if you want to check it out.

November 2008 Q & A: BareTurf Spot, Broccoli, and Basil

By Clara Mae Marcotte, Texas Master Gardener with the Texas AgriLife Extension Q: I have a bare spot in my turf grass; what is wrong with it? Also, when do I fertilize? A: Bare spots in the lawn could be due to a number of things, including grub worms, fungus, and viruses. After discussion with the caller, it was determined that the sprinkler system was leaking and leaving a wet spot in the lawn. Grub worms actually come from the June beetle. If you have more than four grubs per square foot, than treatment is justified. Malcolm Beck tells about his very efficient June beetle trap in “Texas Bug Book—The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.” The beetles show up in late March. Malcolm hangs a 60-watt light over a bucket a little below the rim. He fills the bucket one-third full of soapy water and hangs it high enough so a child or pet can’t get to it. He suggests emptying it every other day into the compost (before the bugs start to decay and stink). Discontinue using the light when it starts attracting green lacewings and praying mantids. My lawn fertilizer is actually already spread. Our George Ammermann suggests that applying ½ pound of nitrogen per l,000 square feet of grass area is sufficient. He also says that fall is a great time to apply compost. The Aggie-horticulture web site reminds us that the best nutrient ratio for fall fertilizing is 3-1-2 or 4-1-2. Q: My broccoli is looking really good in my fall garden. Is there anything I should be doing with it right now? A: One of my favorite Beck and Garrett books is “Texas Organic Vegetable Gardening.” The authors say that healthy soil and beneficial insects will prevent most pests. Broccoli likes moisture and plenty of fertilizer. Fertilize when the heads begin to form with a half handful of organic fertilizer around each plant. Don’t forget to continue fertilizing after the first harvest to encourage the little secondary heads. Q: Last year you mentioned over wintering basil. Would you mention it again? A: Before the first freeze, cut off a stem or two of basil and bring it in the house. I place mine in a jar of water on my kitchen windowsill. After a while it grows roots. Through the winter you can use the fresh leaves in your cooking. This past spring I planted the rooted cutting back in the garden.

October 2008 Q & A: Yellow Ader, Esperanza, Bluebonnets

By Clara Mae Marcotte, Texas Master Gardener with the Texas AgriLife Extension Q: The other day I took a plant walking tour around the Texas AgriLife Extension building in Seguin. At the east end of the building was a beautiful green plant with bright yellow buttercup type flowers. The sign identified it as Yellow Alder. What can you tell me about it? A: This plant, Turnera ulmifolia, also known as Yellow Alder, Yellow Buttercup, Cuban Buttercup, Mexican Buttercup and Sage Rose, can be purchased at local nurseries. The plant is a small shrub that is more tropical than many of our plants around here. A University of Florida fact sheet says it is native to the Caribbean basin. A Texas Gardener.com website has it growing from Brazil to Mexico. This means, of course, that it is not native to North America. It grows from two to three high and the same wide. The green leaves have serrated margins and present a very striking appearance. The plant flowers year round. Freezing temperatures will kill it to the ground, but it usually will come back in the spring. Turnera ulmifolia grows in part shade/part sun and will tolerate either acidic or alkaline soil. It will also tolerate any soil type and moderate drought conditions. In the far south, it may self-seed each year. Q: My esperanza (Tecoma stans) needs trimming. May I do that? A: This Texas Superstar grows to four feet high (although I’ve seen it taller). After flowering, the spent blooms should be removed to promote re-bloom. I have chopped a foot or so off and the plant pops back, but you will be without blooms for a while. The city of Austin’s “Native and Adapted Landscape Plants” suggests that after the first frost, prune the plant to a three inch height, then mulch. For those of you who do not grow the esperanza, it is a three to four foot semi-evergreen plant, and grows best in full sun. It requires a low to medium amount of water and blooms from the spring through the fall. A particularly beautiful display right now is east of the Silver Center in Seguin. Q: Are bluebonnet plants available and can they be planted now? A: Bluebonnet plants are available at your local nursery in six-packs. They can be planted now. In fact, my bluebonnets that came up from seeds from last year’s bluebonnets are just the same size as the plants in the six-pack.

September 2008 Q & A: Chinese jujube, Mexican sunflower

By Clara Mae Marcotte, Texas Certified Master Gardener Q: What are those three really weird looking trees on the Gonzalez Street side of the new Seguin Chamber of Commerce building? A: Those trees are known as Chinese jujube or Chinese date. Their real name is Ziziphus jujuba. Henry Donegan had them planted when he built the building years ago. The tree is deciduous and grows from 20 to 40 feet tall, and 15 to 20 feet wide. The three trees downtown have suckered and have small bushes growing around them. In the wild, this could become a thicket. Duffield and Jones’ “Plants for Dry Climates” calls this a deep-rooted plant that tolerates drought, heat, cold and alkaline soil conditions. In fact, as far as I’m concerned, the tree’s only drawback is the spines growing on the branches. (If the low growing suckers were kept trimmed, and the branches were kept above child and lawnmower level, the spines would not be a problem). In the spring, small yellow flowers form edible fruit about the size of a date. These fruit ripen in high temperatures and taste sort of like sweet apples. Plant in part shade to full or reflected sun. Water occasionally. According to the “Sunset New Western Garden Book” the tree can be pruned in winter to shape and encourage its weeping habit or reduce the size. Master Gardener Lynn Pfullmann tells me that there is another very nice specimen on Terminal Loop Road.

Q: When I was on vacation in New England this summer, I saw a bed of beautiful deep orange flowers. I was told that they were tithonias. Can they be grown here in Texas? A: Surprisingly enough, the answer is yes. I grew this plant as far south as Kingsville. The Tithonia rotundifolia or Mexican sunflower blooms from July to the first frost. The plants grow to six feet high and have flower heads three to four inches across. We grow this plant as a summer annual as it does freeze, however it is drought and heat resistant. Both of the previously mentioned books suggest sowing seed in the place where you want the plants to grow in the spring. Since this is a tall plant, make sure you put it in the back of your garden but still in full sun. When cutting the flowers for bouquets, cut carefully so that you do not bend the stalks because they have inflated hollow stems.